tpallas

Hello all - here is my thread to document my Tamiya King Tiger build. I'm very, very new to RC tanks, but have experience with RC airplanes and model rockets, so please excuse my many newb questions as the plastic modeling side is new to me. I'll go ahead and post photos of the unboxing and build so far and look forward to learning from the expertise on these forums.

Cheers,
Tom

sevoblast

Go for it, Tom! We are here to help you with any questions so ask away.

Cruiser133

You will be very pleased with the choice you made. The KT was my first kit as well and I still have her.

tpallas

Thanks all! I've been very impressed so far with the quality of the kit. Here are some pictures of the packaging and everything taken out.

Markocaster

Hi Tom , I will be following your build, I have one also , just waiting to be built

TheBennyB

First off have fun with it Tom, if you have any questions we're here to help. If you have any extra $$ still in your budget I highly recommend Daryl Turners idler upgrade for this tank.
It's well documented that this tank tends to throw and bust track links and the idler upgrade eliminates this. NOT a must but will improve reliability greatly.

http://etoarmor.com/?product=idler-upgrade-set

tpallas

Very cool! Looking forward to seeing your build...learn from my mistakes!

Awesome, thank you! I've been perusing that website and I wasn't sure which upgrades are worthwhile, so I really appreciate the tip. I did pick up a set of metal tracks when I ordered the tank. I've also ordered an exhaust set from rctank.de that allows for a smoker, which I'd really like to try. Do you have any other recommendations to upgrade?

tpallas

I've found this great site which gives an overview of assembly and gives hint and tips: http://www.artistichobbies.com/resou...akingtiger.php

Started today with priming the metal components. Used Krylon ruddy brown:



Masking:



First coat on the hull came out a little rough, so sanded to prep for next coats:



Couple more coats and I was pleased with the result:

tpallas

Question on the road arms - as I was prepping them for priming I noticed the mold lines. Should I clean these up before priming, and if so, how do I do that?

sgtparker01

Congrats on doing a Tamiya build. I just did one on the leopard and learned a lot from everybody here. I will be starting a Tamiya Sherman build as soon as it comes in, should be around Tuesday. As for the swing arms, guess it really depends on how much you want to make it look realistic. the biggest part of the arm will be behind the road wheel.

TheBennyB

Start with the plastic track first and see how she runs. Adding the weight of the metal track is cool and all (to get the track sag)but it add's stress to the gearboxes/.lower hull flex and running gear Wouldn't worry about the mold lines on the arms. They will be hidden by track and running gear. If it bothers you, than yea, clean that sh.t up, but won't hinder performance.

TheBennyB

Ahhh, just notice you are using krylon ruddy brown. Love that stuff, for some reason my walmart doesn't carry it anymore.

sevoblast

Prototype suspension arms has similar casting mold lines, just not quite so prominent. Link to Swiss resto work.

http://www.koenigstiger.ch/english/2...er-season.html

TheBennyB

Understand the logistic impossibility, but man, the local university should send( Mech eng ) to check this stuff out. See how the watch works..pretty cool...see how torsion bar on a KT is installed.... YUP!

Cruiser133

I get mine at Advance Auto Parts here locally. I love that stuff, not too thick, it is cheap and goes on just right.

tpallas

I was able to order it off Amazon - fairly cheap and got here pretty quick.

Sounds like a plan. I did order the lower hull brace and idler upgrade set from ETO Armor so I'm hoping those two upgrades can handle the metal track.

Now that is COOL! And it makes me feel a lot better about the mold lines, so I left as is. Thanks for sharing - and your help with the order today!

Here's an update on the latest progress:



First attempt at thread lock came out a little ugly:



But subsequent installations came out clean:

tpallas

Question on painting - what's the best order to paint?? I've decided to go with the box art paint scheme of tank 204 from schwere Panzerabteilung 501, December 44:



This is my first time painting any sort of plastic model, not to mention a tank. The way I read the directions provided with the kit is that some basic pieces are primed, the entire model is assembled, the plastic primed, and then painted.

What I don't understand is:

- The road wheels, sprocket, hull, etc are primed - after assembly, do I need to de-assemble to paint? The paint scheme requires application of camo pattern on the sprocket/idler wheels/road arms, and I'm assuming dunkelgelb on the lower hull. Or do I paint them before installation?

- It would seem to make more sense to me to apply the camo to the main body and then add on pre-painted finishing pieces such as spare track, tow cables, tools, etc. Especially since this is my first time doing this sort of painting/detailing, and will be my first time working with an airbrush.

My last question is on the airbrushes themselves. Do I need an airbrush for larger surface areas to cover the dunkelgelb base, and then a finer airbrush to apply the camo pattern? Are there recommended airbrush models that are of high quality but also forgiving to the beginner?

Thanks!
Tom

Pcomm1.v2

Visit here, should be helpful:

http://www.artistichobbies.com/resou...akingtiger.php

tpallas

Thanks - I have been using this as a basis. It looks like he primed everything, painted the road wheels and just kept as is. The paint scheme for the 204 calls for camo on the sprocket, road and idler wheels so I suppose it makes the most sense to paint these before mounting? And if so, do I also paint the lower hull before mounting those parts?

tpallas

Latest progress - sprocket guides installed:



Installed the mechanical plate and fenders:



In the meantime I received a lower hull brace and idler upgrade set from ETO Armor - great customer service!!!



The hull brace looked a lot easier to do so I started with that. The brace itself assembles easily:


These 4 motor mounting holes are enlarged to 11/64":



The corresponding motor mounting pieces are removed from the motor, as seen on the right hand side:



Brace is put into place:



Right side motor assembly installed:



And installation complete:

ausf

Following with interest.

I have a basically a small library's worth of ref material on Tigers and have most of the WWII Tamiya offerings, but never think to get a KT. It's weird, but I may have to fix that.

sevoblast

Tom, looks do me like you are doing a pretty good job on this build. All looks good but remember, when in doubt, ask. We are here to help you when you need it.

Rad_Schuhart

I want to install a gearbox brace too, but Im a bit scared of drilling the holes wrong and having misalignement. Hope somebody makes a gearbox brace that does not need to enlarge the holes.

I want to replace the idler tensioner too (No idea which one to install) and replace the tracks with a metal ones. Does anybody know if the mato tracks are compatible with the tamiya sprochets? I have heard mixed opinions.

sevoblast

For the brace, you are not drilling new holes, you are making four existing holes larger. The instructions with the brace are extensive with illustrations and it's pretty hard to not get it correct.

For your idler, use the HennTec system. There are two systems, one for outside adjustment of the idler, one 'scale' for inside adjustment. The 'scale' system is adjusted through the prototype idler adjustment covers on the hull rear plate. The available covers to replace the glued on Tamiya covers are metal and held on with rare earth magnets. You can also use the stock covers by installing miniature rare earth magnets in them on the inside of the cover and installing metal rod in the hull rear plate. Both systems work very well and I use HennTec systems personally. Installation of the HennTec is simple and usually involves drilling one small hole per side using the idler system as the template. All needed bolts, nuts and washers come with the kit.

http://etoarmor.com/?product=henntec...iya-king-tiger

http://etoarmor.com/?product=henntec...a-king-tiger-2

http://etoarmor.com/?product=henntec...t-cover-plates

I can not answer your question on the Mato tracks working with Tamiya drive sprockets and idlers.

Rustytrax

I don't believe the KT tracks work. PZ4 and KV do. T1, Panther and Sherman do not.