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OKMO 1/16 M60A3 - What We Know So Far

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Old 12-07-2017, 03:00 AM
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Longsheep
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Default OKMO 1/16 M60A3 - What We Know So Far

OKMO Designs has announced a 1/16 M60A3. The model is based on Taiwan/R.O.C. M60A3 TTS, which is identical to US Army ones as some are US surplus units.
As M60A3 is based on M60A1, one can easily modify it into a M60A1.
https://www.okmodesigns.com/m60a3

As a friend of the main designers, this is what I have gathered (and declassified) so far:
  • Model is almost Ready-to-Run, with most details and components included, many already fitted.
  • Current package includes recoil, elevation, turret rotation and cupola rotation drives in both servos and motors. Plus the premium DKLM PDSGB gearbox as well as lights.
  • Most components are printed with superior SLA ABS technology already used by DKLM and OKMO. Layering is minimal and the material is very sturdy but workable. Can be cemented with ABS glue.
  • The printing takes place in a professional prototyping factory using multi-million dollars equipment.
  • The complicated tub-shaped lower hull and sloped turret are accurately printed. Various scale models and the real tank have been used for reference.
  • Standard HL M26 wheels are used to keep it affordable (yes, it is identical on M60!), suspension is prototypical with torsion bars.
  • The detail is high - you can find hundreds of bolts on the tank, most noticeable on the bottom hull where the wheel swingarms meet.
  • Control board is not included. Customer can choose one from various brands, OKMO may sell a recommended one separately.
  • Current full-package price is around $1000, but may change if there are enough orders.




Last edited by Longsheep; 12-07-2017 at 03:16 AM.
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Old 12-07-2017, 08:48 AM
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Nice offering for $1000. Are the swing arms printed or cast metal?
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Old 12-07-2017, 09:48 AM
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If we put together a group order, would we get a discount?
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Old 12-07-2017, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruiser133 View Post
If we put together a group order, would we get a discount?
The problem is they do not make much money as they are already selling nearly at cost. But a larger quantity would definitely drive down the price, just not significantly.
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Old 12-07-2017, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by TheBennyB View Post
Nice offering for $1000. Are the swing arms printed or cast metal?
The arms are plastic as the tank is designed with a low overall weight. It will be test-run on our club site, which has already broken countless Tamiya and HL tanks. It won't be fragile.
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Old 12-07-2017, 06:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Longsheep View Post
The arms are plastic as the tank is designed with a low overall weight. It will be test-run on our club site, which has already broken countless Tamiya and HL tanks. It won't be fragile.
Awesome, you know about the Tammy 2A6 arms then and how they needed to be upgraded. Looking forward to your findings! This sucker would sell pretty well me thinks.
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Old 12-07-2017, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by TheBennyB View Post
Awesome, you know about the Tammy 2A6 arms then and how they needed to be upgraded. Looking forward to your findings! This sucker would sell pretty well me thinks.
Sure, FYI a new member's Tammy Leopard 2A6 lost 3 return rollers with mount and broke one swingarm on its maiden run there last week.
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Old 12-07-2017, 07:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Longsheep View Post
Sure, FYI a new member's Tammy Leopard 2A6 lost 3 return rollers with mount and broke one swingarm on its maiden run there last week.
Swing arm doesn't surprise me, rollers are a new one. Did they bring lower hull with them or just the mounts? Poor glue job? Still see lots of uninformed using CA/Gorilla glue on those type fixtures.

Last edited by TheBennyB; 12-07-2017 at 08:03 PM.
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Old 12-07-2017, 11:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBennyB View Post
Swing arm doesn't surprise me, rollers are a new one. Did they bring lower hull with them or just the mounts? Poor glue job? Still see lots of uninformed using CA/Gorilla glue on those type fixtures.
He used the "odorless" orange cap Tamiya cement, which is ok for static model but not so much for RC.
I would prefer Tamiya white cap cement or the Revell one.
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Old 12-12-2017, 12:46 PM
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Thanks for sharing the photos and model data.
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Old 12-15-2017, 07:07 PM
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I sure hope their 3d printing is better than the stuff they have DKLM sell. This is the T23 they sell. The printing texture IMHO is so bad I wan to just throw it in the trash. Probably will use the turret for just a battlefield prop as I just cant use something that bad.
I would be interested in the M60, but why HL wheels? Couldn't they have copied the wheel and put bearings in? My HL Sherman is already rolling its wheels off as that is a part that just wears out. I would hate to spend a grand on a tank with limited life due to wheels. Is it possible to adapt them to Tamiya Pershing wheels?
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Old 12-15-2017, 07:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichJohnson View Post
I sure hope their 3d printing is better than the stuff they have DKLM sell. This is the T23 they sell. The printing texture IMHO is so bad I wan to just throw it in the trash. Probably will use the turret for just a battlefield prop as I just cant use something that bad.
I would be interested in the M60, but why HL wheels? Couldn't they have copied the wheel and put bearings in? My HL Sherman is already rolling its wheels off as that is a part that just wears out. I would hate to spend a grand on a tank with limited life due to wheels. Is it possible to adapt them to Tamiya Pershing wheels?
The T23 is one of the last products Carson made with FDM. I think he will remake it in SLA some day.
All newer ones like the TUSK II and T95 are with SLA technology using ABS, which is intrinsically smoother, tougher and can be glued/welded with hobby glue.

Using stock HL wheels is just the way to keep the RTR cost down. You can ask him to put in upgraded metal wheels for sure. Plenty of after-market wheels for the HL Pershing, many with double bearings and high quality casting.

You can still sand down the texture of the FDM T23 and fill the dents with plastic surfacer (like the Mr. Surfacer 500). It is an older technology that requires more work to handle, but can be made to look good too.
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Old 12-16-2017, 12:16 PM
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I dont know a lot about 3D other than some parts look really good and need work to use. Is the FDM material ABS? If so look up Acetone fuming on YouTube.
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Old 12-17-2017, 06:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trackmech81 View Post
I dont know a lot about 3D other than some parts look really good and need work to use. Is the FDM material ABS? If so look up Acetone fuming on YouTube.
Model parts are usually printed in PLA (Polylactic Acid) or nylon. PLA is relatively detailed but fragile, while nylon is very tough but rough. There is also acrylic polymer that is even more detailed but extremely fragile (can be crushed by bare hands). All of them come layered.

Printing ABS with SLA is a huge leap as it is a common modeling material (used on all Tamiya and HL tanks) praised for a balance of strength and details.
As the parts come out pretty smooth, acetone fuming is actually not recommended for it will then be too smooth for 1/16 tank parts.

You can learn about the basics of 3D printing here: https://www.shapeways.com/blog/archi...explained.html
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Old 12-17-2017, 07:33 AM
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Very good information longsheep. Thanks.
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Old 12-20-2017, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichJohnson View Post
I sure hope their 3d printing is better than the stuff they have DKLM sell. This is the T23 they sell. The printing texture IMHO is so bad I wan to just throw it in the trash. Probably will use the turret for just a battlefield prop as I just cant use something that bad.
I would be interested in the M60, but why HL wheels? Couldn't they have copied the wheel and put bearings in? My HL Sherman is already rolling its wheels off as that is a part that just wears out. I would hate to spend a grand on a tank with limited life due to wheels. Is it possible to adapt them to Tamiya Pershing wheels?
That's because that T23 turret was printed with an FDM printer. SLA is much more clean, gives amazing details and almost looks like a molded part when complete.
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Old 12-20-2017, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Longsheep View Post
Model parts are usually printed in PLA (Polylactic Acid) or nylon. PLA is relatively detailed but fragile, while nylon is very tough but rough. There is also acrylic polymer that is even more detailed but extremely fragile (can be crushed by bare hands). All of them come layered.

Printing ABS with SLA is a huge leap as it is a common modeling material (used on all Tamiya and HL tanks) praised for a balance of strength and details.
As the parts come out pretty smooth, acetone fuming is actually not recommended for it will then be too smooth for 1/16 tank parts.

You can learn about the basics of 3D printing here: https://www.shapeways.com/blog/archi...explained.html
PLA shouldn't be used for anything by prototype parts anyways, it has too low of a glass temperature and warps easily in the sun plus it isn't very durable.. Shelf models maybe, but ABS should be the very least option offered to any customer.. I learned this the hard way after printing an entire 1/10 M1083 and a bunch of parts warped and were destroyed when it sat in the sun for less than an hour. Everything was replaced with ABS.
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Old 12-24-2017, 09:51 PM
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All painted! By a Taiwanese modeler.
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Old 12-25-2017, 06:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sky_HawK View Post
PLA shouldn't be used for anything by prototype parts anyways, it has too low of a glass temperature and warps easily in the sun plus it isn't very durable.. Shelf models maybe, but ABS should be the very least option offered to any customer.. I learned this the hard way after printing an entire 1/10 M1083 and a bunch of parts warped and were destroyed when it sat in the sun for less than an hour. Everything was replaced with ABS.
As a total newb to 3D printing (just bought my first printer, the creality cr10) I believe I detect a man who's brain I might like to pick. Would you mind terribly, old boy? Just kinda part the hair and peal back a bit of the skull so I can get in there and poke around for a couple of hours? Quite right.

Wow, I think I been hangin' out at RCTW too much. But seriously, I really want to learn about this but I don't want to hijack the thread so I'll try to stay in context. The M60 is printed in ABS, yes? I believe my printer is capable of using either, what would be the differences in printing between PLA and ABS? I believe ABS prints at a higher temp? Is it significantly more expensive than PLA? Or harder to work with, both during and after printing? Is it more expensive to print in ABS, possibly justifying some of the total cost of the M60? I'm still having a hard time getting my mind around paying a grand for an all plastic tank, so maybe there's a significant cost involved with ABS? That might at least alleviate some of the sticker shock.
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Old 12-25-2017, 07:14 AM
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I like what I see. Might just be on my shopping list.
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Old 12-25-2017, 07:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crius View Post
As a total newb to 3D printing (just bought my first printer, the creality cr10) I believe I detect a man who's brain I might like to pick. Would you mind terribly, old boy? Just kinda part the hair and peal back a bit of the skull so I can get in there and poke around for a couple of hours? Quite right.

Wow, I think I been hangin' out at RCTW too much. But seriously, I really want to learn about this but I don't want to hijack the thread so I'll try to stay in context. The M60 is printed in ABS, yes? I believe my printer is capable of using either, what would be the differences in printing between PLA and ABS? I believe ABS prints at a higher temp? Is it significantly more expensive than PLA? Or harder to work with, both during and after printing? Is it more expensive to print in ABS, possibly justifying some of the total cost of the M60? I'm still having a hard time getting my mind around paying a grand for an all plastic tank, so maybe there's a significant cost involved with ABS? That might at least alleviate some of the sticker shock.
ABS is in general harder to print with acceptable details. To do so SLA/SLS technology capable of using ABS is needed - those are expensive machines only affordable by factories. The designers own (several) 3D printers too - none is good enough for the task.

Therefore they picked a large 3D prototyping firm for the task, located in China that usually only print prototype for large manufacturers. Good thing they know the right people to get a few slots.
I don't think the material is expensive - it is more about paying the rent for million-dollar worth of machinery. I had a peek at one bill (last time, T95) and it is about 50% of the total price. Definitely not profitable for the designer.

Plus there are already some Tamiya Leopard 2A6 selling over a grand on the bay. This model is shipped with even more bells and whistles (DKLM gearbox, servos, high quality recoil...) - only a board is needed to get it running.

Chris Ludwig's kits cost even more ($1500 for my Centurion) and require way more working hours (9 months for me) to complete. Still they get sold so there must be a market for it.
Not a huge fan of M60 but will definitely get a Chieftain if it gets released - it is sort of on the schedule.




Last edited by Longsheep; 12-25-2017 at 08:04 AM.
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Old 12-25-2017, 10:22 AM
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So when is it going to go on sale?
i email okmo two weeks back with no reply.
how will we purchase?
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Old 12-27-2017, 04:30 AM
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Quote:
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So when is it going to go on sale?
i email okmo two weeks back with no reply.
how will we purchase?
OKMO might be busy, you can contact Carson/DKLM as he can help you to forward your request. Best to find him on Facebook.

And here is a new video of the test run.
https://www.facebook.com/42646810085...5515088281073/
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Old 01-07-2018, 06:31 AM
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Video of the first outdoor test run!
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