What RC tank have you found most reliable?
01-08-2018, 07:53 AM
#1
Thread Starter
What RC tank have you found most reliable?
Tank that has never broken down or had a component failure!
Only one has been for me, Radio Shack M1A1 24th scale RC tank
Only one has been for me, Radio Shack M1A1 24th scale RC tank
01-08-2018, 10:11 AM
#2
Tamiya tiger, tamiya Pershing, tamiya sherman, tamiya js2, taigen late tigers have all been failure free. My Porsche tiger was also really good. I've not really stressed my taigen panthers to destruction but they've been fault free so far.
01-08-2018, 10:52 AM
#3
01-08-2018, 02:30 PM
#6
So far, my only taigen Tiger 1 tank has had a smoke unit failure.. But to me, that's not a serious part of the tank anyway..
My tank is the Taigen Mid Level Tiger 1 all metal with all the upgrades to it..
However, just had my first breakdown.. Less than a month in, my V2 electronics board has suffered a failure.. Damn..
My tank is the Taigen Mid Level Tiger 1 all metal with all the upgrades to it..
However, just had my first breakdown.. Less than a month in, my V2 electronics board has suffered a failure.. Damn..
Last edited by gp100; 01-16-2018 at 10:22 AM.
01-08-2018, 04:07 PM
#8
Join Date: Jun 2010
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I own 4 tanks HL abrams, HL Leo , new HL Sherman and a HL tiger 1 that is almost all Taigen late model now. The Tiger performs the best because there is a lot of metal on it so it gets good traction on the hills. But they all like to throw tracks except for the stock Sherman it is hands down my most reliable
01-08-2018, 05:35 PM
#9
Tamiya Tiger 1. I have chewed up a gear on the output shaft but it has been through so much abuse of battling and being used by new comers and kids. Other than aftermarket motors it's completely stock including stock bushings not bearings. Plenty of room inside to wrench. Metal sprocket/idler/suspension arms with the aluminum tub. Plastic upper/turret and tracks just sets you up for durability. Also just a breeze to operate and performs well on all terrains.
01-08-2018, 06:15 PM
#10
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Fresno CA
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I've had two Tamyia Tiger I's, both had issues, but they were different. I ran them I literally hundreds of battles both in BAT and Kelly's Heroes as well as at my house and they all break in some way at some point with heavy use. The best for me was the Tamiya Sherman. It only broke cosmetic things. Whereas the Tigers were running gear and turret issues....but again this is heavy use. I'm sure some of the guys back east in Danville have more time on theirs than me; they were battling back then and still do, I dropped off at some point. At any rate, the Sherman was hard to break...at least for me.
I'll also throw this in...with these tanks, like the real ones, the biggest factors for reliability would be the assembly and maintenance of them....at least I think it's a huge factor. Just a thought
I'll also throw this in...with these tanks, like the real ones, the biggest factors for reliability would be the assembly and maintenance of them....at least I think it's a huge factor. Just a thought
Last edited by armornut; 01-08-2018 at 06:20 PM.
01-08-2018, 06:25 PM
#11
I've had two Tamyia Tiger I's, both had issues, but they were different. I ran them I literally hundreds of battles both in BAT and Kelly's Heroes as well as at my house and they all break in some way at some point with heavy use. The best for me was the Tamiya Sherman. It only broke cosmetic things. Whereas the Tigers were running gear and turret issues....but again this is heavy use. I'm sure some of the guys back east in Danville have more time on theirs than me; they were battling back then and still do, I dropped off at some point. At any rate, the Sherman was hard to break...at least for me.
I'll also throw this in...with these tanks, like the real ones, the biggest factors for reliability would be the assembly and maintenance of them....at least I think it's a huge factor. Just a thought
I'll also throw this in...with these tanks, like the real ones, the biggest factors for reliability would be the assembly and maintenance of them....at least I think it's a huge factor. Just a thought
Last edited by TheBennyB; 01-08-2018 at 06:28 PM.
01-08-2018, 06:48 PM
#13
You still in contact with any of the BAT/Kelly's Hero's tankers? I lived in So Cal in 2005 and was very fortunate to be included with S.C.A.T (which I had just found) to be invited up to Littlefield's place and battle. Believe it was hosted by B.A.T? What a experience that was to meet him and tour his buildings!
Last edited by TheBennyB; 01-08-2018 at 06:52 PM.
01-08-2018, 07:11 PM
#14
Join Date: Sep 2014
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Nope, most that are around the hobby are here. I know Rex and Jerry are here, I'm sure there's some that are lurking or I've missed their posts. I left before the battles there at Littlefield's, but did get to see it with BAT, which was amazing.
I remember most of the Tamiya kits were pretty solid for most of the guys...of course that's all that was available other than Bandai Stug, Hummel and Panzer which pale in quality to the Tamiya in terms of running. I don't have too much run time on my new tanks, so time shall tell on them
I remember most of the Tamiya kits were pretty solid for most of the guys...of course that's all that was available other than Bandai Stug, Hummel and Panzer which pale in quality to the Tamiya in terms of running. I don't have too much run time on my new tanks, so time shall tell on them
Last edited by armornut; 01-08-2018 at 07:14 PM.
01-08-2018, 07:47 PM
#15
Yea, right on. Bandai kits....you've now given me head pains. I'll always remember the advice and time spent on a newbie back in the day from Ron Behr?, Rich Upton, Steve Patton and Vince Hearn.
Last edited by TheBennyB; 01-08-2018 at 07:57 PM.
01-09-2018, 07:22 AM
#19
Tamiya Sherman is pretty bullet proof. Mine have held up well. The taigen shermans seem to be pretty good. The only problem I have had is after the tracks break in a few pins have come loose. Which can cause a serious problem if you don't catch it and it binds in the drive train. But that can happen to any tank. Just have to push it back in half way at the battle and wait till ya get home and put a drop of super glue on it and push it back in.
On the cheap side, the henglong Sherman holds up pretty well considering. Its not bullet proof but probably the best of the henglongs for robustness. My kid pushed his around as much as he drove it and eventually a rock bound and broke a rear idler. I installed a mato adjustable rear idler on. Eventually the crappy hl gear boxes gave up but man that thing keeps on kicking and hes almost 4 now and still playing with it.
On the cheap side, the henglong Sherman holds up pretty well considering. Its not bullet proof but probably the best of the henglongs for robustness. My kid pushed his around as much as he drove it and eventually a rock bound and broke a rear idler. I installed a mato adjustable rear idler on. Eventually the crappy hl gear boxes gave up but man that thing keeps on kicking and hes almost 4 now and still playing with it.
01-09-2018, 11:37 AM
#20
Nothing beats the original Tammy 56010. And when I mean nothing, I mean my sons learning to battle, jack rabbit starts/stops and the infamous rolling down (not on the tracks, I mean rolling) a set of concrete stairs, landing on it's feet to go ahead and wind the battle.
After 13 years or so, it's gone through repaints from a Das Reich with full Aber to an Initial thats basically bare and the only thing I had to do over that time was rebend the torsion bars back because I stored it on it's feet for the first 8 or so years. Still completely original, with the original Futaba 75 meg Attack Tx, original gearboxes and tracks. Didn't even need to change out the elevation arm since this was the old kit that has a styrene barrel.
Second would be the M4, but that got split up and sold off over the years, but I'm sure it's living on, as a camera platform and a T-34/76
After 13 years or so, it's gone through repaints from a Das Reich with full Aber to an Initial thats basically bare and the only thing I had to do over that time was rebend the torsion bars back because I stored it on it's feet for the first 8 or so years. Still completely original, with the original Futaba 75 meg Attack Tx, original gearboxes and tracks. Didn't even need to change out the elevation arm since this was the old kit that has a styrene barrel.
Second would be the M4, but that got split up and sold off over the years, but I'm sure it's living on, as a camera platform and a T-34/76
01-10-2018, 06:42 AM
#22
Thread Starter
Appreciate the replies everyone!
I wanted to challenge with no break down or failure ever (I suppose a de-tracking may not be failure if it does not occur often, but getting hit in an IR battle at Danville because you cant move sure feels like a failure!)
Just and example of my failures (not a comment on quality at all, just observation on reliable running)
Tamiya Tiger(s) - track strain broke the metal idler shaft, burned out MF unit, recoil actuator broke, turret rotation binding/slippage
Hooben T55 - what didn't break? LOL
Tam Leo - twisted wires broke speaker wire, broke suspension arm, turret retaining clips broke
Tam KT - idler adjust failure (slippage) resulted constant de-tracking, turret rotation binding/slippage
Tam Pershing - turret rotation binding/slippage, gun elevation slippage
Bandai Pz IV - de-tracking/slippage, ground up gearbox
HL T90 - drums break off, interfere with rear gun rotation
HL Type 90 (24th) - track breakage
Academy Leo 2A5 (24th) - track breakage, BB fire fail
Not counting my scratch and customs as extremely modified they are not really the manufacturer kits anymore.
I wanted to challenge with no break down or failure ever (I suppose a de-tracking may not be failure if it does not occur often, but getting hit in an IR battle at Danville because you cant move sure feels like a failure!)
Just and example of my failures (not a comment on quality at all, just observation on reliable running)
Tamiya Tiger(s) - track strain broke the metal idler shaft, burned out MF unit, recoil actuator broke, turret rotation binding/slippage
Hooben T55 - what didn't break? LOL
Tam Leo - twisted wires broke speaker wire, broke suspension arm, turret retaining clips broke
Tam KT - idler adjust failure (slippage) resulted constant de-tracking, turret rotation binding/slippage
Tam Pershing - turret rotation binding/slippage, gun elevation slippage
Bandai Pz IV - de-tracking/slippage, ground up gearbox
HL T90 - drums break off, interfere with rear gun rotation
HL Type 90 (24th) - track breakage
Academy Leo 2A5 (24th) - track breakage, BB fire fail
Not counting my scratch and customs as extremely modified they are not really the manufacturer kits anymore.
01-10-2018, 05:41 PM
#23
My recommends are focused on Tamiya WWII RC IR Tanks. Seems to me all machines eventually break, specially the RC IR Tanks, if operated, fought and not serviced. Battling, of course, causes predicable wear and tear on any model one fights and that means replacing broken parts. Your most reliable Tamiya RC IR tank kit is the one you build well for durability and serviceability in mind. To that end some of my builds have received Daryl Turner customization, which has made the model way more fun to play with, fight and simply fix when necessary.
Tamiya WWII RC Tank Kit Issues and Observations, noted, after 15 years of building the kits for my amusement. Basic upgrades that most Tamiya dedicated RC IR WWII battle tanks have, but not many will admit to are 400 motors, road wheel and idler wheel bearings, improved idler adjusters. Universally, Tamiya WWII IR RC Tank "must have upgraded parts for all kits” in my opinion are a metal gearbox mount brace and a metal elevation arm. The brace helps to solve the issue of tossing tracks. The metal elevation arm replaces a plastic kit part, that, when it fails someday, you will not have the unpleasant task of replacing it. A good cure for WWII Tamiya RC tank turret rotation issues and main gun elevation issues is to both route the wiring cleanly and remove the black clutch gear(s); clean off the grease and carefully CA glue the gear solid and re-install the gear; for both the elevation and rotation units.
Tamiya WWII RC IR Tanks; unique failures and model issues:
Tamiya King Tiger.
1. Idler tension kit parts; do not work very well. Replacement part sourced from ETO Armor: either the Henntec Idlers or a Daryl Turner spring loaded idler return kit system.
2. Kit Tracks; links break easily, specially when turning. Fix, I used Impact and or Kenny Kong metal tracks.
3. Gearbox setup; the KT is to fast. I used Schumo gear reduction units with ETO black motors. Bullet proof setup after a decade of use.
Tamiya Tiger IE.
1. Gearbox setup; the Tiger I is to fast. I used Schumo gear reduction units with ETO black motors. Bullet proof setup after more than a decade of use.
Tamiya Pz4J and Jagdpanzer Lang.
1. The kit road wheel carriage leaf springs are to short (the carriage will pop apart when running). Fix, install the kit leaf springs, so the length is almost flush with the set screw, well, as much as possible.
I used Schumo replacement carbon fiber leaf springs (no longer available). Note. You might find new longer metal after market sets over on rc tank regiment.
Tamiya Panther G and Jagdpanther.
1. I would recommend the basics, as stated above. The early Panther and Jagd kits had a few issues: barrel wobble, defective tracks and drive sprockets that did not work, fyi.
Tamiya KV-1.
The deck to hull attachment kit system is poor. I did the standard WWII aftermarket upgrades with a few custom improvement features custom made by Daryl Turner, including an improved idler system and a better method to mount the deck to the hull glacis plate.
Tamiya JS-2.
DKLM RC Tanks offers a metal elevation arm. Otherwise I built this model out of the box with no performance issues, yet.
Tamiya Sherman and Pershing.
Built these models out of the box, then later did the upgrades listed up at the top, plus added about 8 ounces of weight to the floor of the Sherman hull.
Tamiya Modern Tanks.
Tamiya Leopard 2A6, Gepard Flakpanzer and Leopard 1A4.
Daryl Turner and I added all the bells and whistles, but I never run them.
Tamiya Type 10.
Built stock and runs good using an FM ground radio. Immediately sold it off. So, the reliability is perfectly unknown.
Daryl Turner One Off Custom Collaboration Model Art (Photos: Leo 2, Leo 1, Gepard, Lang, Tiger II).
Just my 2 cents, John
Tamiya WWII RC Tank Kit Issues and Observations, noted, after 15 years of building the kits for my amusement. Basic upgrades that most Tamiya dedicated RC IR WWII battle tanks have, but not many will admit to are 400 motors, road wheel and idler wheel bearings, improved idler adjusters. Universally, Tamiya WWII IR RC Tank "must have upgraded parts for all kits” in my opinion are a metal gearbox mount brace and a metal elevation arm. The brace helps to solve the issue of tossing tracks. The metal elevation arm replaces a plastic kit part, that, when it fails someday, you will not have the unpleasant task of replacing it. A good cure for WWII Tamiya RC tank turret rotation issues and main gun elevation issues is to both route the wiring cleanly and remove the black clutch gear(s); clean off the grease and carefully CA glue the gear solid and re-install the gear; for both the elevation and rotation units.
Tamiya WWII RC IR Tanks; unique failures and model issues:
Tamiya King Tiger.
1. Idler tension kit parts; do not work very well. Replacement part sourced from ETO Armor: either the Henntec Idlers or a Daryl Turner spring loaded idler return kit system.
2. Kit Tracks; links break easily, specially when turning. Fix, I used Impact and or Kenny Kong metal tracks.
3. Gearbox setup; the KT is to fast. I used Schumo gear reduction units with ETO black motors. Bullet proof setup after a decade of use.
Tamiya Tiger IE.
1. Gearbox setup; the Tiger I is to fast. I used Schumo gear reduction units with ETO black motors. Bullet proof setup after more than a decade of use.
Tamiya Pz4J and Jagdpanzer Lang.
1. The kit road wheel carriage leaf springs are to short (the carriage will pop apart when running). Fix, install the kit leaf springs, so the length is almost flush with the set screw, well, as much as possible.
I used Schumo replacement carbon fiber leaf springs (no longer available). Note. You might find new longer metal after market sets over on rc tank regiment.
Tamiya Panther G and Jagdpanther.
1. I would recommend the basics, as stated above. The early Panther and Jagd kits had a few issues: barrel wobble, defective tracks and drive sprockets that did not work, fyi.
Tamiya KV-1.
The deck to hull attachment kit system is poor. I did the standard WWII aftermarket upgrades with a few custom improvement features custom made by Daryl Turner, including an improved idler system and a better method to mount the deck to the hull glacis plate.
Tamiya JS-2.
DKLM RC Tanks offers a metal elevation arm. Otherwise I built this model out of the box with no performance issues, yet.
Tamiya Sherman and Pershing.
Built these models out of the box, then later did the upgrades listed up at the top, plus added about 8 ounces of weight to the floor of the Sherman hull.
Tamiya Modern Tanks.
Tamiya Leopard 2A6, Gepard Flakpanzer and Leopard 1A4.
Daryl Turner and I added all the bells and whistles, but I never run them.
Tamiya Type 10.
Built stock and runs good using an FM ground radio. Immediately sold it off. So, the reliability is perfectly unknown.
Daryl Turner One Off Custom Collaboration Model Art (Photos: Leo 2, Leo 1, Gepard, Lang, Tiger II).
Just my 2 cents, John
Last edited by Pcomm1.v2; 01-10-2018 at 06:29 PM.
01-11-2018, 08:51 AM
#24
Like Ausf I have an original Tamiya 56010 Tiger I that is still running. My Tiger has not rolled down a set of concrete stairs, but it has been run rough by my son and I. Also have an original Tamiya Sherman with the clutch drive that is still running. Both are so easy to maintain. I agree that the build process has to be solid and proper maintenance needs to be kept up on them. I have a Tamiya Panther I need to build as I have heard and read that it can be a solid runner as well. I really need to finish my Tamiya Tiger II. Tamiya defiantly has some of the best, to build, R/C tanks. Tiger II needs help with the idler adjustment hardware, but can be a good runner as well.
01-11-2018, 09:13 AM
#25
Actually I forgot that one of my most reliable tank models has been my very first 1/10 Maier Panther. It has the original Webra 6,5ccm engine with self starter and the first version of the later style
( with acrylic cover) Maier's manual 3 speed transmission. Once I figured out how to set the thing up, took me a year as I had no clue what I was doing, it's run very well for
the last 40 years. Engine needs refreshing but that's it.
Jerry
( with acrylic cover) Maier's manual 3 speed transmission. Once I figured out how to set the thing up, took me a year as I had no clue what I was doing, it's run very well for
the last 40 years. Engine needs refreshing but that's it.
Jerry
