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Tamiya "Super Spin" Tiger IE

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Tamiya "Super Spin" Tiger IE

Old 02-01-2018, 11:38 AM
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Shorty54
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Default Tamiya "Super Spin" Tiger IE

Can the "Super Spin" be dialed down On the Tamiya 56010?
I am having a really hard time driving this thing. As soon as I try to steer is will do a 360!
If I put some blades on top the turret I swear it would lift off the ground. Its all stock, except I am only running 1 5000mah nihm battery.
I also have the Tamiya Pershing, and its more more controllable.

Thanks,
Shad
Old 02-01-2018, 12:03 PM
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tomhugill
 
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Have you calibrated the DMD? My experience of tamiya electrics is that you need the stick hard over to initiate super spit?
Old 02-01-2018, 12:15 PM
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Shorty54
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Originally Posted by tomhugill
Have you calibrated the DMD? My experience of tamiya electrics is that you need the stick hard over to initiate super spit?
I think so, if by calibration, you mean press the "set" button on the DMD and then go through all the forward back up down stick movements according to the manual.
I have done this 2 times.

Shad
Old 02-01-2018, 01:52 PM
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da Rock
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Do you happen to have a TX with exponential capability? It can de-sensitize whichever axis you're using for that steering of the 4 stick axes. Well, that is, if your TX does expo.
Old 02-01-2018, 02:17 PM
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Shorty54
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Originally Posted by da Rock
Do you happen to have a TX with exponential capability? It can de-sensitize whichever axis you're using for that steering of the 4 stick axes. Well, that is, if your TX does expo.
Not for this tank.
Old 02-01-2018, 02:39 PM
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Do you have it configured to drive on one stick?

Not questioning you, but I've had Tamiyas for a long time and never had this issue, whether using the old Futaba 75 meg AM, 2.4 Attacks or Spectrum DX6is.

To pivot turn (which I don't think any WWII tanks could do), I have to go hard on the stick from a dead stop, it has never interfered with steering.

That said, I keep them set up with teh throttle on the left stick and steering on the right. I control the throttle and thumb the direction to tune steering, usually only a bit either way.

If you have it set all on one stick and either very wide travel adjustments or the trim is out of whack, I could see it being a problem, but honestly, I've never come across it either with my own or my sons driving.
Old 02-01-2018, 03:04 PM
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Shorty54
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Originally Posted by ausf
Do you have it configured to drive on one stick?

Not questioning you, but I've had Tamiyas for a long time and never had this issue, whether using the old Futaba 75 meg AM, 2.4 Attacks or Spectrum DX6is.

To pivot turn (which I don't think any WWII tanks could do), I have to go hard on the stick from a dead stop, it has never interfered with steering.

That said, I keep them set up with teh throttle on the left stick and steering on the right. I control the throttle and thumb the direction to tune steering, usually only a bit either way.

If you have it set all on one stick and either very wide travel adjustments or the trim is out of whack, I could see it being a problem, but honestly, I've never come across it either with my own or my sons driving.
Yes, one stick. All driving on the right stick, all turret on the left.
I have it on a HKt6 radio now. Maybe I can play with some adjustments in the radio.
I will drive some more and see exactly when it hits ''Super Spin"

I am just trying to drive slow and make one track turn the tank. It seems both want to turn, one forwards, and one back.
Maybe thats just how they are??? I thought I could get just one side to turn at a time???

Thanks,
Shad
Old 02-01-2018, 04:22 PM
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It's definitely not how they are. Actually I've only heard the term super spin in reference to HLs.

Again, I try to drive like the real thing, keep the throttle going and make adjustments left or right with taps of the thumb. It's hard to do that on one stick, unless you are staring at it, you'll always get drift off the horizon. The pivot only occurs at the extremes of the travel, I can't see getting there under normal circumstances unless you really want to.

I'd suggest reconfiguring your sticks and see if you like it better. I've tried the one stick movement on a few things and never liked it.
Old 02-01-2018, 05:53 PM
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It's all proportional. The more you hit the stick the more turn you get especially at higher throttle levels. Little bit of throttle and little movement on the steering channel should result in one track locking. More movement on the steering channel will result in a pivot turn. Just have to get the feel for it.
Old 02-01-2018, 10:34 PM
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Could it be and older Tiger kit? Those 1st Gen (white) gear boxes were fast. I ended up adding gear reduction to mine.
Old 02-02-2018, 05:59 AM
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Shorty54
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Originally Posted by ksoc
Could it be and older Tiger kit? Those 1st Gen (white) gear boxes were fast. I ended up adding gear reduction to mine.
Mine have white plastic gears mixed with the brass/metal gears. The motors are shiny looking and no protective covers on them. I am not sure if those are new or old style?? I have seen pictures of gearoboxes with black gears mixed with metal and dull motors with black covers over about half the gearbox. My Tiger is very fast! Too fast!
Old 02-02-2018, 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by TheBennyB
It's all proportional. The more you hit the stick the more turn you get especially at higher throttle levels. Little bit of throttle and little movement on the steering channel should result in one track locking. More movement on the steering channel will result in a pivot turn. Just have to get the feel for it.
Benny is right, if you are used to RC cars, driving a tank takes a little more finesse...
With throttle forward, try one o'clock or 11 o'clock for gentle one track turning.
Pulling passed 2 o'clock or 10 o'clock may put you in a spin.
Old 02-02-2018, 06:28 AM
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You do have the 1st generation gearboxes which Tamiya did later re-fit the kit with more appropriate gearboxes.
The scale speed of 1st generation boxes is about 31mph, which is too fast for a Tiger I.

You may be able to find a lower RPM motor (higher torque) to replace or as most do, add a gear reducer or replace the transmission altogether.
Old 02-02-2018, 06:34 AM
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Shorty54
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Originally Posted by heavyaslead
You do have the 1st generation gearboxes which Tamiya did later re-fit the kit with more appropriate gearboxes.
The scale speed of 1st generation boxes is about 31mph, which is too fast for a Tiger I.

You may be able to find a lower RPM motor (higher torque) to replace or as most do, add a gear reducer or replace the transmission altogether.
Thanks for clarifying the gearboxes. That maybe explains why my Pershing drives much better. Its has 480 motors in it.
I have talked with ETO and maybe I should just bite the bullet and put those in? It sounds like much better controll.

Right now the throttle seems very very touchy! Its hard to get the tank to creep and I can get one track to lock up, but its very very hard to.
It just wants to jump into overdrive. I'm going to mess with some endpoints on my radio maybe??? I could dial some speed down that way, but then I would loose power during IR battles, correct?

Thanks,
Shad

Last edited by Shorty54; 02-02-2018 at 06:38 AM.
Old 02-03-2018, 05:28 AM
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Would probably be cheaper to sell the white gearboxes and buy a pair of new dmd gearboxes for the tiger one.
Old 02-03-2018, 10:23 AM
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For your reference, attached are some picts of Tamiya Type I vs Type II (black shields removed from Type II). Also included the gear reduction units I got from ETO Armour
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Old 02-03-2018, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by ksoc
For your reference, attached are some picts of Tamiya Type I vs Type II (black shields removed from Type II). Also included the gear reduction units I got from ETO Armour
Thanks for the info Kevin.
I think by the time I buy the new type II gearboxes plus gear downs, I may as well just buy the new ETO gearboxes.

I think I have made up my decision to get the new ETO gearboxes.
They are plug n play, and sound like the very best for speed, torque, and for IR battle.
I will get the Henn Tec Idler system at the same time.

Thanks,
Shad
Hopefully, it should help bulletproof the Tiger.
Old 02-03-2018, 01:19 PM
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Could you please take a photo of the motors that your tank is using?

No matter what motors you use, if the problem is in bad calibrated electronics, you wont stop super spinning... So first of all, we must address the problem. If you have the kit 56010, it comes already with good gearboxes and you should not be doing super spins.

Of course the gear downs are cool, and the ETO gearboxes are nuke proof, but problarbly you wont need to replace your stock ones.
Old 02-03-2018, 02:36 PM
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They are the same ones that ksoc posted in the above post #16 second picture, top row, right gearbox.
Those are the ones I have. I am trying to go forward or reverse slowly and lock one track to turn. I have to move my right stick 7/8 left or right to lock a track to turn.
The problem is, from center to 7/8 nothing happens, then lock track, then superspin. Its so touchy its almost impossible to avoid superspin.
I was thinking I should have more control of the steering around the center of the stick. If the radio had Expo on it, it would feel like 100%!
Perhaps this is just how it is suppose to work, maybe the problem is me? I feel like my BARC4 had better steering control.
I am using the HK-T6A radio, and have Digital Radio so I can program the radio. I already set my endpoints down to 100, if that even makes any difference?
Thanks for all the help.
Old 02-03-2018, 04:32 PM
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I think by the time I buy the new type II gearboxes plus gear downs, I may as well just buy the new ETO gearboxes.
. Best choice if you can afford it. Not an option back when I did this.
Old 02-03-2018, 08:33 PM
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The problem is, from center to 7/8 nothing happens, then lock track, then superspin. Its so touchy its almost impossible to avoid superspin.
I was thinking I should have more control of the steering around the center of the stick.
I suggest you check your radio transmitter/receiver setup. It's easy to do if you have a spare servo. Just unplug the rudder lead (don't worry if the tank shuts off, the rudder lead does that) from the DMD, and plug in the servo. Then move the steering stick left and right smoothly and slowly. Servo should move smoothly and slowly, just like the stick movement. It might be a signal that is 0 until you get full deflection. . It may not be an issue, but it's a low cost thing to check prior to buying more hardware (although maybe not as much fun!)

Last edited by Jeff489; 02-03-2018 at 08:35 PM.
Old 02-04-2018, 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Shorty54
They are the same ones that ksoc posted in the above post #16 second picture, top row, right gearbox.
Those are the ones I have. I am trying to go forward or reverse slowly and lock one track to turn. I have to move my right stick 7/8 left or right to lock a track to turn.
The problem is, from center to 7/8 nothing happens, then lock track, then superspin. Its so touchy its almost impossible to avoid superspin.
I was thinking I should have more control of the steering around the center of the stick. If the radio had Expo on it, it would feel like 100%!
Perhaps this is just how it is suppose to work, maybe the problem is me? I feel like my BARC4 had better steering control.
I am using the HK-T6A radio, and have Digital Radio so I can program the radio. I already set my endpoints down to 100, if that even makes any difference?
Thanks for all the help.

I see... Well, anyway, it should not be that bad. First try what Jeff said. Im sure it is something related with your radio setup or your DMD calibration.
Old 02-04-2018, 04:42 PM
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Shorty54
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I tried the servo trick, and servo works perfectly.
I reset the DMD again. Its the best its going to be I think.
Maybe its its the cheaper HK radio? My Tamiya Pershing drives much better, its more controllable.
My Pershing has 480 motors and Futaba SkySport T4YF 2.4G radio.
I think the Tiger is just too fast. I'll live with it until I can get ETO gearboxes.

Shad
Old 02-04-2018, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Shorty54
I tried the servo trick, and servo works perfectly.
I reset the DMD again. Its the best its going to be I think.
Maybe its its the cheaper HK radio? My Tamiya Pershing drives much better, its more controllable.
My Pershing has 480 motors and Futaba SkySport T4YF 2.4G radio.
I think the Tiger is just too fast. I'll live with it until I can get ETO gearboxes.
Shad
Any time you're ready for my transmissions, just order away, they are always in stock, as are the HennTec idlers.
S02 Heavy duty transmission system for Tamiya Tiger 1 ? ETO armor
HT013 Idler system for the Tamiya Tiger 1 by HennTec ? ETO armor
Old 02-04-2018, 06:34 PM
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Shorty54
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Originally Posted by sevoblast
Any time you're ready for my transmissions, just order away, they are always in stock, as are the HennTec idlers.
S02 Heavy duty transmission system for Tamiya Tiger 1 ? ETO armor
HT013 Idler system for the Tamiya Tiger 1 by HennTec ? ETO armor
Right on Bob! I had sent you an email last week.
Thanks again for all info you sent back to me.
I am working on a couple good jobs in the shop once I get paid for them I will probably order them up.

Thanks
shad

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