Sherman disease.
03-24-2018, 10:03 PM
#29
Thread Starter
Modern or vintage vehicles?
03-24-2018, 10:12 PM
#31
Most split hatch did not have breaks in WWII unless they were made in the one month they overlapped at chrystler, it was i think August. Hence i usually put the threwd protector on the barrel but everybpdy seems to want a muzzle break.
there were WWII Jeeps to Humvees. The m4a1 75 didnt make it out but maybe next year. We are in talks to get it out here.
there were WWII Jeeps to Humvees. The m4a1 75 didnt make it out but maybe next year. We are in talks to get it out here.
03-24-2018, 10:16 PM
#32
Thread Starter
The tank in the pic I found has improvised armor added to the differential cover. I don't know if I want to add that.
ETA: Here it is.
ETA#2 And the glacis. I missed that.
ETA#3 Dang. And a .50 coax in addition to the TC's .30. I knew about the .30, but wasn't going to add it, because I want Fury to stand out. I may add the .50 coax.
ETA: Here it is.
ETA#2 And the glacis. I missed that.
ETA#3 Dang. And a .50 coax in addition to the TC's .30. I knew about the .30, but wasn't going to add it, because I want Fury to stand out. I may add the .50 coax.
Last edited by Maccrage; 03-24-2018 at 10:22 PM.
03-25-2018, 12:12 AM
#33
Thread Starter
Ugh. The more I sit here looking at her, the more I'm unsatisfied with the color. Too green. And that was the major complaint I had about the stock tanks. But before I repaint I'll wait 'till tomorrow to decide. Look at her in natural light. I don't want to do it if I don't have to. My ancient Verlinden US Stars are done for. These were the only salvageable ones on a whole sheet. And even these I had to do touch up paint.
03-25-2018, 02:11 PM
#34
Thread Starter
Not as bad as I thought. Pretty good for not having touched paint in over 6 years. Maybe a brown wash. Or a light overspray of od.
Last edited by Maccrage; 03-25-2018 at 02:18 PM.
03-25-2018, 02:39 PM
#35
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Alexandria, Minnesota, USA
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Your tank looks really good. I hope mine turns out that nice.
The paint is a tough call for me. All the models I see look green,
but many pictures of the real ones look brown. I know Rich has spent some
serious time matching true olive drab, and it looks brown. He has a formula for it.
Shad
The paint is a tough call for me. All the models I see look green,
but many pictures of the real ones look brown. I know Rich has spent some
serious time matching true olive drab, and it looks brown. He has a formula for it.
Shad
03-25-2018, 02:46 PM
#36
Thread Starter
Your tank looks really good. I hope mine turns out that nice.
The paint is a tough call for me. All the models I see look green,
but many pictures of the real ones look brown. I know Rich has spent some
serious time matching true olive drab, and it looks brown. He has a formula for it.
Shad
The paint is a tough call for me. All the models I see look green,
but many pictures of the real ones look brown. I know Rich has spent some
serious time matching true olive drab, and it looks brown. He has a formula for it.
Shad
03-25-2018, 02:56 PM
#37
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Location: Alexandria, Minnesota, USA
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I have the mixture, just have not tried it yet. He also primes his black, not sure if that makes a difference either?
I have grey primer. I have never painted a model, so bear with me with the questions.
shad
03-25-2018, 03:04 PM
#38
Thread Starter
How did it really look in person? Pictures on the forum cant be trusted, color is off.
I have the mixture, just have not tried it yet. He also primes his black, not sure if that makes a difference either?
I have grey primer. I have never painted a model, so bear with me with the questions.
shad
I have the mixture, just have not tried it yet. He also primes his black, not sure if that makes a difference either?
I have grey primer. I have never painted a model, so bear with me with the questions.
shad
03-25-2018, 03:13 PM
#39
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Location: Alexandria, Minnesota, USA
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03-25-2018, 06:43 PM
#41
Don't you just hate when that happens? lol..
You never know when one of these critters will be carrying this dreaded virus.. Then you're screwed..
My understanding of this disease, is there is no known cure.. You're buggered mate..
You never know when one of these critters will be carrying this dreaded virus.. Then you're screwed..
My understanding of this disease, is there is no known cure.. You're buggered mate..
03-25-2018, 06:46 PM
#42
03-26-2018, 08:05 AM
#44
Im back from a week playing with army jeeps and WCs and CCKWs at the rally.
Yes, any tank i sell likely carrys the virus, i often bleed on my models....lol
my OD that is tamiya is 1part each flat brown flat yellow flat black. If you want it a bit darker add more black . For post 1944 tanks you spray over with a clear semigloss coat then decal. This changes the seen to the 1944-45 semigloss od which makes the same color paint darker.
All other paints i tried were just too green.
I guess you are using the taigen IR system? Because its quite easy to convert the airsoft turret to recoil and IR with the clark universal recoil unit.
Yes, any tank i sell likely carrys the virus, i often bleed on my models....lol
my OD that is tamiya is 1part each flat brown flat yellow flat black. If you want it a bit darker add more black . For post 1944 tanks you spray over with a clear semigloss coat then decal. This changes the seen to the 1944-45 semigloss od which makes the same color paint darker.
All other paints i tried were just too green.
I guess you are using the taigen IR system? Because its quite easy to convert the airsoft turret to recoil and IR with the clark universal recoil unit.
03-26-2018, 10:57 AM
#45
Looks good. As you said a wash and some weathering will make it looked used but not abused.
03-26-2018, 11:35 AM
#46
Thread Starter
Im back from a week playing with army jeeps and WCs and CCKWs at the rally.
Yes, any tank i sell likely carrys the virus, i often bleed on my models....lol
my OD that is tamiya is 1part each flat brown flat yellow flat black. If you want it a bit darker add more black . For post 1944 tanks you spray over with a clear semigloss coat then decal. This changes the seen to the 1944-45 semigloss od which makes the same color paint darker.
All other paints i tried were just too green.
I guess you are using the taigen IR system? Because its quite easy to convert the airsoft turret to recoil and IR with the clark universal recoil unit.
Yes, any tank i sell likely carrys the virus, i often bleed on my models....lol
my OD that is tamiya is 1part each flat brown flat yellow flat black. If you want it a bit darker add more black . For post 1944 tanks you spray over with a clear semigloss coat then decal. This changes the seen to the 1944-45 semigloss od which makes the same color paint darker.
All other paints i tried were just too green.
I guess you are using the taigen IR system? Because its quite easy to convert the airsoft turret to recoil and IR with the clark universal recoil unit.
03-26-2018, 03:21 PM
#47
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Crete,il.
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Hi, just wanted to touch bases with you on buying your mato airsoft unit. Apparently I’m not sending my messages to you correctly. I’ve tried sending my address a number of times. I don’t think you get them. I’ll give it to you again here. Rob Robertson 854 w. Arlington lane Crete Illinois 60417. Sure hope you get it. Just wanting to get my Sherman back on the road. Thanks, Rob
03-26-2018, 04:06 PM
#48
Thread Starter
Hi, just wanted to touch bases with you on buying your mato airsoft unit. Apparently I’m not sending my messages to you correctly. I’ve tried sending my address a number of times. I don’t think you get them. I’ll give it to you again here. Rob Robertson 854 w. Arlington lane Crete Illinois 60417. Sure hope you get it. Just wanting to get my Sherman back on the road. Thanks, Rob
03-26-2018, 04:19 PM
#49
Thread Starter
I couldn't talke the green. I mixed up a batch using Rich's formula. And to illustrate his point about the gloss making it appear darker, the hull is semi-gloss, the turret hasn't been clear coated yet. Same paint.
