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Tamiya JPanther Gearboxes

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Old 05-16-2018, 02:17 AM
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Merlin88
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Default Tamiya JPanther Gearboxes

Good morning to all, this is for all those whom have built this particular kit. A few days ago I was trying to dry fit the gearboxes in the hull, mind you I have the hull brace and drilled out the 4 holes for the longer screws. I wanted to get the output shaft support part installed as well, but just trying to get the gearboxes installed has proven to be..... frustrating at best. I get the longer screws started but the smaller screw wants to cross thread into the standoff. I able to get the gearboxes in with just the long screws but I did notice the output drive shaft sits forward and down. I would think that you want it to sit in the center of the cutout? I have a friend who has a machine shop, and I will have him take a look, and see what he thinks. Also I want to make sure that the drive shafts are or as near to perpendicular to the hull so as to not have problems with the tracks. I will check when I get home to see if the gearboxes from my KT fit. Are the gearboxes from different kits interchangeable? Do they have the same footprint? The only reason I started this kit, was I'm waiting to have some work done on the rear hull plate of my KT. As of right now I have the lower hull primed and painted dark yellow, and all the wheels are done. Most of the wheels of the JP have the dark green painted on, and the hull has been primed. Here is one of the wheels I have done for the JP. Thanks for any help on this.

Tim S
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Old 05-16-2018, 06:18 AM
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Jeff489
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Not sure which "hull brace" you have. Aftermarket?

As to the transmissions, they have the same footprint. Standoff height varies by Tamiya kit, but isn't critical (I mix and match them occasionally, and the height in the hull cut out isn't a big issue as long as the shaft clears, is plumb, and is symmetrical with the other side). Sometimes the three standoffs on each gearbox are in in a different pattern (a triangle versus the standard "L" shape) as well, but they're easily moved if need be.

Panthers/Jagdpanthers/KV/JS have the long final drive shaft. Tigers/King Tigers have the medium length final drive shaft, and Shermans have the short final drive shaft (which are the final drives in the replacement gear kit sold by Tamiya). Except for the unique Tamiya transmissions (i.e. Leo2a6, Type 10, Abrams and Pershing) those three sizes are all I've run across.

Last edited by Jeff489; 05-16-2018 at 06:25 AM.
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Old 05-16-2018, 06:20 AM
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Pcomm1.v2
 
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Photos would help with an answer here.

Last edited by Pcomm1.v2; 05-16-2018 at 06:22 AM.
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Old 05-16-2018, 06:47 AM
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Merlin88
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I have the ETO brace.
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Old 05-16-2018, 07:35 AM
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Not sure what you have going on, but let's start here:
Remove all the stand off stanchions from the Tamiya gearboxes.
You do not use them at all. The Tamiya Jagdpanther gearboxes sit flush to the gearbox mount.


Remove all the Tamiya gearbox stanchions, you do NOT use them! The gearboxes sit flush to the gearbox mount brace,


My Tamiya Jagdpanther Build.

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Old 05-16-2018, 08:57 AM
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Merlin88
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Yes, the hull brace shown is different than the one I have. When I get home I will see if I can get some pics. Do you have a build thread on your JP?
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Old 05-16-2018, 09:16 AM
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Last edited by Pcomm1.v2; 05-16-2018 at 09:18 AM.
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Old 05-16-2018, 03:33 PM
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Merlin88
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Here are additional pics.
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Old 05-16-2018, 07:05 PM
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Something to Check. And the gearbox brace photo I first included above is the wrong part. Your brace photo is correct.

Task at hand: Center up the brace in the hull in its best mount position; center up the new larger brace mount holes and make small adjustments to mount and fit the gearboxes in best position.

1. Make sure the gearbox mount brace is sitting square in the hull after having enlarged its hull mounting holes, the new larger diameter holes could be a little off and not center up to the brace within the hull.
2. Hard to tell, but it looks like the right front leading edge of the gearbox mount brace is pushing slightly forward, thus not siting square in the hull.
3. That could be caused by the slightly larger, but now off center, newly drilled mounting holes.
4. Fix by adjusting the brace placement in the hull and then even out the placement size of the mounting holes so the metal brace plate can sit square, while being tightened down in place and that the gearboxes stay centered.
5. Easier to do than write about! If this suggested info is of no help, try mounting the gearboxes with the stand off stanchions back on and without using the mount brace.
6. Use oversized washers with the kit gearbox mount screws to cover the larger hull holes and see how all that works, inspecting how all the parts align and if there is an improvement.

John

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Old 05-16-2018, 08:13 PM
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Tim, I did send you the instructions, did I not? Whether I did or not, I'm sending them again. The brace should be a bolt in and will not affect for and aft location of the transmission and drive shaft.
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Old 05-16-2018, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by sevoblast View Post
Tim, I did send you the instructions, did I not? Whether I did or not, I'm sending them again. The brace should be a bolt in and will not affect for and aft location of the transmission and drive shaft.
Yes, it is not the brace itself, but it may well be the position of the newly drilled and enlarged hull holes, been there, seen it, done it; when almost everything aligns but one stanchion etc.

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Old 05-17-2018, 05:51 AM
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Just a question, I have not built this kit, or any other Tamiya kit than the shermans. But the Sherman tranny brace from ETO is thicker than the height of the tranny stand offs with their washers. I used a micrometer to measure the Tamiya stand offs and the eto brace, its defineately thicker, I first noticed it when I installed it in a built tank, it raised my axles up in their hull penetration holes. I took two braces to a machineist and had him machine them down to the Tamiya stand off height. Since then I have not bothered to do that on Tamiya Sherman builds. it didn't really make a difference if the axles stood a tad higher on the Sherman.
So what Im saying is use a caliper and check the height of the new brace against the height of the Tamiya stand offs with their springs.
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Old 05-17-2018, 06:48 AM
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John is most certainly correct... one axle is leading while one is trailing, so it's in the way the hull holes were enlarged. I punch mine out with a drill press, lining up the center of the hole. Drilling by hand, the bit will 'wonder' to one side and un-evenly increase the inside diameter of the existing hole.

I have quite of few of these braces installed in various tanks... the same MO applies even with different tanks as I did with the Panther and now the Jagdpanther.
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