M551 Sheridan build videos
07-20-2019, 06:29 PM
#26
07-20-2019, 10:23 PM
#27
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Northern Illinois
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Two hints for you. There is a piece for the search light hole. For the driver hatch, your right it needs more. I saw you had a King Hauler. I used the little black wrench that comes on the 5th wheel sprue or the one with tail light covers. (I have a bunch) It's used for the real small 2mm nuts. Found one that fit tighter, cut 1/8 - 1/4" off the back side and glued it with thin set to the bottom of pin holder. Squeezed it tight, let dry, and it turned out real tight. Will stay where ever you place it.So you were right that it needs a poly cap. Seems like it was planned but got forgotten as the pin is so long.
I also bought the new radio Finespec. First one as I ussually use Futaba and install the push buttons. I was wondering if you could show how to set that up? Have not looked into it yet myself.
Bummer it's coming to an end!
I also bought the new radio Finespec. First one as I ussually use Futaba and install the push buttons. I was wondering if you could show how to set that up? Have not looked into it yet myself.
Bummer it's coming to an end!
Last edited by Tamiya Fan; 07-20-2019 at 10:29 PM. Reason: an oops
07-21-2019, 06:22 AM
#28
Thanks Fury!
I will look into that, also I will do a finespec setup video because, why not.
I have more projects coming up!
Two hints for you. There is a piece for the search light hole. For the driver hatch, your right it needs more. I saw you had a King Hauler. I used the little black wrench that comes on the 5th wheel sprue or the one with tail light covers. (I have a bunch) It's used for the real small 2mm nuts. Found one that fit tighter, cut 1/8 - 1/4" off the back side and glued it with thin set to the bottom of pin holder. Squeezed it tight, let dry, and it turned out real tight. Will stay where ever you place it.So you were right that it needs a poly cap. Seems like it was planned but got forgotten as the pin is so long.
I also bought the new radio Finespec. First one as I ussually use Futaba and install the push buttons. I was wondering if you could show how to set that up? Have not looked into it yet myself.
Bummer it's coming to an end!
I also bought the new radio Finespec. First one as I ussually use Futaba and install the push buttons. I was wondering if you could show how to set that up? Have not looked into it yet myself.
Bummer it's coming to an end!
I have more projects coming up!
07-21-2019, 07:55 AM
#29
07-21-2019, 02:47 PM
#30
07-22-2019, 06:53 AM
#31
Wow, thanks for sharing the build videos. I just binge watched them. I was not sure if I would like the Sheridan, but is is a nice R/C kit. I would suggest painting the road wheels with krylon black paint the toe rubber portions will be black and last as krylon paint really bites into the plastic. Looking forward to seeing it painted!!!
07-22-2019, 07:52 AM
#32
Thanks MAUS, I am looking forward to seeing it painted as well LOL, might get some progress made this week.
I add a few layers of clear on the rubber painted areas to armor them a bit, and I don't do much if any off roading but the Krylon sounds like a great tip for heavy use.
I was almost considering using plastidip to paint on the tires as that stuff is tough as nails.
I add a few layers of clear on the rubber painted areas to armor them a bit, and I don't do much if any off roading but the Krylon sounds like a great tip for heavy use.
I was almost considering using plastidip to paint on the tires as that stuff is tough as nails.
07-22-2019, 03:38 PM
#33
Thanks MAUS, I am looking forward to seeing it painted as well LOL, might get some progress made this week.
I add a few layers of clear on the rubber painted areas to armor them a bit, and I don't do much if any off roading but the Krylon sounds like a great tip for heavy use.
I was almost considering using plastidip to paint on the tires as that stuff is tough as nails.
I add a few layers of clear on the rubber painted areas to armor them a bit, and I don't do much if any off roading but the Krylon sounds like a great tip for heavy use.
I was almost considering using plastidip to paint on the tires as that stuff is tough as nails.
07-22-2019, 08:48 PM
#35
07-22-2019, 08:50 PM
#37
07-22-2019, 09:42 PM
#38
Sheridan
Why and my subjective reasons for dropping the build:
Not that interesting an armored vehicle, do not like or appreciate US Cold War Armor, nor a fan of VN era subject matter modeling all that much; the kit is diminutive in an unimpressive way (as was my Tamiya RC Sherman and PZ 4J builds); and I am currently more into modern armor.
The Tamiya Sheridan kit looks good and the quality is there, just not interested in it after watching the videos.
Enjoy your build and post photos!
07-23-2019, 06:23 PM
#39
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Northern Illinois
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Just watched #7. I agree with comment on AAf Tank Museum, they are the best in price, customer service, delivery time, etc... Natasha is the best!! I think buying from them helps the museum out also.
Any way I'll wait for #8 to happen. I'm glad you didn't loose the light cord piece. Have a good night!!
Any way I'll wait for #8 to happen. I'm glad you didn't loose the light cord piece. Have a good night!!
Last edited by Tamiya Fan; 07-23-2019 at 06:25 PM. Reason: An oops
07-25-2019, 09:10 PM
#43
07-27-2019, 07:36 AM
#44
Plastidip is a bad idea. You can not paint it on It begins to harden immediately. I tried to paint it on tracks years ago. After hours of tedious work I drove the tank and it peeled rigth off the metal tracks. I would suggest, not trying it as you may damage the wheels. It also will not be on the wheel surface evenly so it you will be bumping up and down as they roll.
Just do the krylon black on the wheels and then paint the OD over it where needed.
If you are afraid of wear taking the black paint off, get large shrink tube at the electrical store and put it over the wheel and shrink and cut it to fit. Then you will have a small rubber surface to roll on that wont wear paint off.
Just do the krylon black on the wheels and then paint the OD over it where needed.
If you are afraid of wear taking the black paint off, get large shrink tube at the electrical store and put it over the wheel and shrink and cut it to fit. Then you will have a small rubber surface to roll on that wont wear paint off.
Last edited by RichJohnson; 07-27-2019 at 07:38 AM.
07-27-2019, 03:02 PM
#45
Plastidip is a bad idea. You can not paint it on It begins to harden immediately. I tried to paint it on tracks years ago. After hours of tedious work I drove the tank and it peeled rigth off the metal tracks. I would suggest, not trying it as you may damage the wheels. It also will not be on the wheel surface evenly so it you will be bumping up and down as they roll.
Just do the krylon black on the wheels and then paint the OD over it where needed.
If you are afraid of wear taking the black paint off, get large shrink tube at the electrical store and put it over the wheel and shrink and cut it to fit. Then you will have a small rubber surface to roll on that wont wear paint off.
Just do the krylon black on the wheels and then paint the OD over it where needed.
If you are afraid of wear taking the black paint off, get large shrink tube at the electrical store and put it over the wheel and shrink and cut it to fit. Then you will have a small rubber surface to roll on that wont wear paint off.
I am just using Tamiya Rubber Black as I like how it looks.
07-27-2019, 05:15 PM
#47
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Northern Illinois
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Ian - I feel your pain on the "HARD CORE 7", very stress full. I hate water slides also. The back stowage rack is only glued on top or bottom, I forget which, but says in the instructions. I found that weird to and have not installed that yet,
Any way enjoy the vids!
Any way enjoy the vids!
07-27-2019, 07:17 PM
#48
If one of you guys want to try making a tire mold for heat vulcanizing rubber, unless you've got a viable 3D printer option I'll send you some raw
rubber to use. Aluminum is easiest but anything that will hold up to 350 deg F. Loose fitting tires will be best for this rubber, since it doesn't have
an anti-ozonant would be best. Anti-ozonant are the compounds that aid resistance to ozone and tires made to be stretched without such a compound
will suffer cracks and failure.
Jerry
rubber to use. Aluminum is easiest but anything that will hold up to 350 deg F. Loose fitting tires will be best for this rubber, since it doesn't have
an anti-ozonant would be best. Anti-ozonant are the compounds that aid resistance to ozone and tires made to be stretched without such a compound
will suffer cracks and failure.
Jerry
Last edited by Tanque; 07-27-2019 at 09:15 PM.
07-27-2019, 11:01 PM
#49
The vids are awesome. Can’t wait to get my kit. As I will have a great vids to look back on.
Congrats on your leo2a6. Great n complex kit. Fiber optics suck but oh well. Lol
Congrats on your leo2a6. Great n complex kit. Fiber optics suck but oh well. Lol
07-28-2019, 08:16 AM
#50
If one of you guys want to try making a tire mold for heat vulcanizing rubber, unless you've got a viable 3D printer option I'll send you some raw
rubber to use. Aluminum is easiest but anything that will hold up to 350 deg F. Loose fitting tires will be best for this rubber, since it doesn't have
an anti-ozonant would be best. Anti-ozonant are the compounds that aid resistance to ozone and tires made to be stretched without such a compound
will suffer cracks and failure.
Jerry
rubber to use. Aluminum is easiest but anything that will hold up to 350 deg F. Loose fitting tires will be best for this rubber, since it doesn't have
an anti-ozonant would be best. Anti-ozonant are the compounds that aid resistance to ozone and tires made to be stretched without such a compound
will suffer cracks and failure.
Jerry
Thanks man, and not looking forward to the 2 yards of fiber optics....