Rebellion13

I collected most of what I need for my Taigen (Yvonne) build, I still have more items coming this week. This will be a sloooow build. But to get started, I painted the bogies using a combination of primer, black textured paint, followed by Tamiya TS-28

RiskyR

Looking a lot better already!

Pah co chu puk

looks great!

Rebellion13

Thank you. I was planning on going with Kim Olsen's MTCU, that will be a future swap, but for now I will be using the V3 board with the GAA sound card.......for now

Crius

Unless you're planning to battle it, I think you'll find that the V3 is actually a pretty good little board. It has very good control and I like the sound card for the Sherman / Pershing. Most of my Airsoft Tanks still run on the v3, that's why I have so many V2 units lying around not being used.

I have a few tanks that have a Clark or an IBU in them and some of the extra features are nice but a few of those are just because I have extra channels on the radio, like the servo operated machine gun in the jagdtiger. That just runs right off the receiver so the board doesn't really matter for that. But like I said before, for my Airsoft Tanks I have found that the V3 pretty much meets all my needs.

Rebellion13

I have the IBU full option (green board) that i have had sitting around ever since I bought it.I will install that in my Tiger 1 as my next project And I also have two of the LegoDEI IR (Tamiya) so eventually the Sherman will have a Tamiya compatible board installed, just not now..and who knows I may like the v3 in there and then that will give me a reason to buy another tank. I do want to have two "battle" tanks for my son and I.

Cheers
Wade

tankme

There is an add-on board that will make the Taigen control board work with Tamiya tanks, but I don't directly know of anyone that has used it or gotten it to work.

Torro Battle System

Rebellion13

Hmm interesting

BcuriousR

The Mako board (RCTanksAustralia), works with the Taigen boards to make them Tamiya compatible. They work mostly. They are a bit finicky and inconsistent.

Crius

I've heard the Mako works very well, but I've never had much luck with it. I have one here that A friend gave me that I haven't even tried to install yet. I suppose if someone really needed it I might be willing to part with it. I'm pretty sure they're out of stock at RC tank australia.

This new unit looks pretty good, I might give it a try in my king tiger, if I ever get back to that project, if I live that long.

Rebellion13

4:1 Gears have arrived

Crius

Yeah, this is a little late, but I found that in the sherman, the 3:1 gearboxes provides a scale speed that's much closer to the real thing. I did quite a bit of experimentation and timing with different gearboxes and with the 3:1 I was getting a scale speed of about 28 mph. With the 4:1 it was closer to 20 mph, a little bit slow for a sherman. I still haven't tried the new V3 gearboxes, the ones with the plastic covers, but I don't really like those boxes anyway. Too noisy.

Rebellion13

Every place that I looked into were out of the 3:1 gears, with no timeline on when they would be back in stock. The ones I have pictured are the V3 I just removed the covers for the pics. I will probably break in the gears if I feel motivated, I have a visaton speaker I will be using and I am making a custom enclosure........hopefully it will drown out the gear noise

Crius

If there comes a time in the future where you can't find the right gearboxes in stock anywhere, send me a private message. I've got more of those darn gearboxes than I can shake a stick at.

Also, at my YouTube channel I did a video on breaking in gearboxes, I like the Cloverlite (sp?) lapping compound for that. Paint all the gears with the lapping compound, let them run for 1 minute, then clean everything with mineral spirits and re Lube and I think it really cuts down the gear noise.

Rebellion13

Much appreciated, I make take you up on that offer someday.. Thank you for the replies

Cheers
Wade

Rebellion13

Bogies on........ man those were hard to put on, I couldn't find my small screwdriver and it is cramped in there.

Rebellion13

Well....I am not too happy at how the cast effect on the turret came out, I primed first and when stippling Mr surfacer it started to eat through the primer, and just not happy with the effect "sigh" so tonight I will strip off the layers and either use red glazing putty or re-apply the surfacer directly to the metal.

Crius

If red glazing putty is the same as Automotive spot putty then I think you're on the right track. The stuff I'm talking about comes in a tube kind of like toothpaste and sands very easily. I use that stuff all the time and I really like it. If you want to use it for cast effect you might be able to thin it a little bit with paint thinner and then use the stippling effect. I'll be looking forward to photos of the final effect, this has been a cool project.

Rebellion13

Crius I think my mistake was using the rustoleum primer for a base, so I might just give it another try, but instead just apply the Mr surface directly to the metal and see how that goes. I used the surfacer on the cast front part of the upper hull and I think it looks decent. I will post pics later today of the results on the upper hull

RiskyR

I'd suggest using automotive primer, apply with the fingers and create a rough texture.
Then use sanding paper to smoother it down a bit. Not too much.

I did it like this on my turret and it came out pretty good.

Rebellion13

Risky, the first pic you posted, that is how the upper hull front cast piece looks with the Mr surfacer, but on the turret it has little "bumps" in the paint. I did not get to stripping the paint off last night.........I was watching the last three episodes of Jack Ryan lol

Rebellion13

Mr Surfacer applied on upper hull

Rebellion13

The engine grill on the Taigen has molded into it what appears to be flat bar stock......in reality they are weld beads. So I will be using the red glazing putty to give that effect (hopefully)

tankme

Mr. Surfacer typically works great applied before primer. It is an enamel based product so putting it over or under acrylics works great. Putting enamels on enamels doesn't typically work well. Kinda the rules are different paint types won't interact, but similar ones will.

tankme

I have some of the 3M red glazing putty and does work well, but it is really dusty sanding it.