blitzkrieg65

Wacky, exactly, and some good did come out of that river crossing, I am now attempting to make my own rear idler adjustment for the Tiger 1 / King Tiger out of common parts!

I think this is rev 3 or 4 I stopped counting[>:] Oh, and that river is still calling my name after I get the rear idler worked out I am going back!

The Bltiz[sm=shades_smile.gif]

westdr6113

In the bulldog the 3rd plug is used for the taillights

samarkh

Hi Planedev
On your new RX-13 board, is the newer socket labled DP4? If so then it is the same as the headlight LED's.

Yours Simon M.

fv432

jump on the bay and try and pick up a DMD MF unit for the price of a Henglong board
I know the quality issues between the two and still cant work out the price difference[:'(][:'(][:'(]

Planedev

Thanks I will test the output voltage of that plug, if it is for a LED lighting I might add in tail lights to my PZ3(yes its DP4)

wackywheelz

If its like the "un-used" - and would be called DP4 but is un-named - it supplies 4.5v to the LEDs (so yes, tail-lights)

Planedev

Or maybe even a laser?

wackywheelz

Yeah you could do that, use the airsoft fire control switch for on/off ability, as the laser would blink (like the LEDs do) while the tank is in standby

tawney

So anyways, back to the subject of repairing boards. I guess that few if any make an attempt at repairs, just throw away and replace with the same and hope it lasts. The point I was trying to make is-how do you make it better or at least do your own repair for "cheap"

wackywheelz

Add heatsinks for better dissipation of heat, flip the board over (components side up) for better cooling, or install a fan and be done with it. Once they're cooled properly, wired properly (no shortcuts or half-ass measures) you have a tough cheap little board with lots of features.

Run larger capacity batteries and longer runtimes without issue, heck you can even add a more powerful motors (Speed 400), but cooling becomes important - Do a little work now (as insurance) to guarantee problem free running with longterm use and abuse.

YHR

CPU heatsinks add to the existing heat sink and they are golden. See attached photo

Gustof Wind

I purchased an HL tank and have run it a few minutes at most on a wood Gym floor and less even on my clean shop floor and then one day I turned it on to move the turret so as to fit the tank into it's box and then put it on a diorama that I had made to take a video of it working and it wouldn't start. The lights came on blinking, but that was it! Needless to say I looked for loose wires etc. and found one off and soldered it back in place. I'm not the neatest solderer on the planet, but I sure can do as well or better than the flunkies that put these thing together. If the people that manufacture these things can't make them to last at least a season with out the buyer having to go looking for parts that are as bad AS THE ORIGINAL, then as far as I'm concerned, no mater if you paid $62.00 or $162.00 it's still a piece of junk!!!

BIGMIG

Can't tell you for certin this is the problem,but the tanks I have that the lights flashed and would not start was the (CRYSTALS).
If you have another HL tank it is a easy test,just swap out the crystals and see if thats not the problem.It is also posible one is not seated properly,push on both of them to make sure they are in all the way.For some reason the one that seems to be bad has always been the one in the tank(the crystal for the receiver).Hope this might help. BIGMIG

P.S. Tower hobby sells crystals that work in the HL tanks.

Gustof Wind

reply to BIGMIG
I said that I've been through all that crystal checking crap etc. My point is we SHOULDN'T HAVE TO SCREW AROUND withe new merchandise. It should work reliably from the getgo!If you bought a blender or TV or some other appliance and it didn't work you damb sure wouldn't waste time screwing around with it to get it to work! I've been in model railroading most of my life and I'm 72 years old and I have locos that are older than most of you all out there and they work just fine and have never been fiddled with. I've been into rc planes for 13 years and surly wouldn't put up with an engine that wouldn't perform as advertised As far as I'm concerned the HL tanks are junk, electronicly speaking. They should leave the guts out and offer them as static models!

Captain Nemo12

Well, you get what you paid for.

BIGMIG

OK--------BIGMIG[:-][:-][:-]

YHR

Well I guess we know where you stand. You being a model railroader I am completely baffled by your response. For 62 bucks you can hardly buy a boxcar anymore let alone somehting that moves on it's own. Rip out the guts and treat it like a static model if it makes you feel better. Either that or pretend it doesn't move. You'd be hard pressed to find a static 1/16 scale tank for $62.00

I am not sure what your agenda is, but trust me people around here a quite happy with their Heng long tanks, which by the way keep getting better.

This is the best forum for helping people, and we have little tolerance for "Junk" type threads They simply add nothing to the discussion.

Gustof Wind

reply to Capt Nemo
Yes, I guess I got what I paid for--a $62.00 (+postage) toy that will take a $20.00 part to make it go, and that's a crap shoot, making it a $82.00 (+postage-+postage) toy! uhhgg! If I had not started to weather it (I assumed it would last) I would have sent it back! If the new board doesn't fix it I'll run over it with my tractor! But first I'll post a pic or two of it. I'm done!

YHR

Yep. I guess this hobby isn't for you. You are new here, and there is a wealth of information on how to turn that toy into a really decent RC model if you wanted to. Heng Longs are great places to build from. They have a few issues, but we all know what they are, and have engineered the problem right out of them.

Did you order the right board?. Did you have a smoke and sound version or just the less expensive two speed version.????

Gustof Wind

Yes -s&s

YHR

So you have ordered the S&S replacement board? Before installiing it, add heat sinks to stock heat sink, and then mount it flipped 180 degrees to allow better airflow around the heat sink.

Captain Nemo12

Yeah, I certainly knew what I was getting into when I bought my HL, I've learned from other people's experience here that they do break down, boards get blown, etc. You can't really expect hobby-grade performance out-of-the-box, especially for something made in China these days but I can say that I'm pretty satisfied with mine. For ~$120 you can't really beat the price, the proportional speed-control, the smoke and sound, the airsoft are all nice features not mentioning that it's an RTR!

I don't expect mine to last forever either, sh1t happens.

Panzerfaust77

I've just uprated my Tiger with metal tracks, road wheels, sprockets and 3:1 gears. It pulls alright but man it's heavy. I'm worried about blowing the board (Rx-13). Should I add a fan?

tawney

OK lets take this thread on a slightly diffrent course that may be helpful to people that are having trouble with their boards such as me and would like to take a stab at doing your own repair. How about posting your problem and the part (component) that you replaced to fix the board. In my case I have lost reverse on the left track, the mp4104 has a burned spot on it so I asume that is the cause. I havent located the replacement yet but will update you when I do. So any one else with a symtom and the cure that you used to fix your tank board, maybe this could be the start of something big??

fv432

from the research thats been done on the rx-13s probabley a wise move
and the fan costs a lot less than a new board
have you uprated the heatsink??? as this would be another good idea too

Rob