YHR

Well I posted a few pics on the SNFF thread, but here is my rendition of some German armor. A 75mm PZIV F2. I still have all the details in the Heng long bag to add. As soon as Darktih has another order of components ready I will be adding a DBU in the cupola as well.

I want to add another wash of gray in an attempt to tone down the shine and then hit it with more dullcoat. I am thinking I might white wash this as well.

JerB

another great looking tank my friend[8D]

Jeremy

JerB

also ,what color did you paint your tracks?

gigantohawk

Wow, another great piece of work from the prolific master. If it was my PZIV I'm not sure I'd want to hide all that great work with whitewash though.

Nick.

YHR

The tracks got a coat of the metalizer paint.

Panzerfaust77

amazing

ArmChairGeneral

Nice work - what color grey is that?

Perry S.

Hey YHR. I like it and as always looks great but the lower hull looks green and way too clean. Have you just not gotten to that part yet?
Perry

pattoncommander

Great job on weathering. Very realistic. Muffler would look better with Rust-All and some of the fine grit to represent flaking, rather that just using rust paint.. Rust and wear on the turret side doors is very effective (windex?)and the tracks look great. .needs some mud on the suspension.

YHR

You got it. I have given the top half a couple of washes, but I never did the tracks and suspension yet. Once done it will turn more to the faded German gray.

Patton commander

The muffler has some baking soda mixed in the paint, but hasn't had a wash of black yet applied. Once the wash is applied the flakes will "pop" out. This being an RC tank I let the mud stay where it wants.

johnmar78

good job on paint work and also a good texture too...

pattoncommander

YHR, my Pz IV is due in this week and I hope I get it looking as good as yours. Mine will be DAK as an f2. Do use use the windex trick on weathering? However you do it, it's very effective. Never tried the baking soda thing, will have to try it, but I have been usiing Rust-all with such good results for so long, it's hard to go to another method.

YHR

Yes I use the windex trick on all areas where I want a lot of the top coat removed, like around the hatches. I also spray windex on a rag and then just wipe down the edges to remove the paint.

Windex is powerful stuff. Be careful with it. I learned this totally by accident. I had been working on a Heng Long and had gun lube oil all over the tank. I had a bottle of windex on the bench and figured that would work for cutting the grease and clean up the tank. I sprayed the tank down , looked for a rag, and in the first pass half the paint came off!!!!!!!!! It was at that point I realized I had stumbled onto something. Now I use it in a controlled manner with good results.

Here is a muffler down with baking soda in paint.

lanierrl

YHR,

I have a Pz IV on the way too. Yours looks great. I really like the suede paint idea. Is it hard to avoid getting it on too think? Also, where did you get the F2 barrel?

Again, great work. I may steal some of your ideas of you don't mind.

pzrwest

What type of paint was removed by the Windex? acrylic or enamel?

YHR

Windex strips acrylic paint

BBL was extended with brass tube and a muzzle brake


And some more pictures

Bauer66

YHR, Excellent Job, Very nice. I Like it.

borealis

Great job [sm=thumbup.gif]

thomasjohnmurphy

In one of your pics you show how you can charge your battery without taking it out. How do you do that. (do you need a special harness?)

Red_Rabbit

Hi YHR

I like it too. It looks like a real war hero - "been ther' don' that" (in english = It really looks like it has been in many places and seen a lot of action).

In the first series of pictures, there where white paint in the turrets left doors. Was the crew trying to cover the rust from the worst places as they where painting their turret number?

Yours,

RR

Harquebus

It does not appear to be anything specialized; that looks like the standard "female" charge connector. Most likely a spare that is spliced into the main battery wiring? Would also like to know if there is more to the installation and what is involved.

Alternatively, one could install this: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXKX46&P=7 But I would make certain that is is concealed properly under a hatch.

slotcarrod

As normal, very nice YHR it looks great!

ps: You suck! lol

pzrwest

Where Windex works great for removing acrylic paints Easy-Off Oven cleaner works great for enamels. Works best on matt paint but will also work on gloss paints whith a couple applications. it will take the paint off right down to the bare plastic and won't harm the plastic. Just spray the foam in the paint let set for 15 or 20 minutes then scrub off with a toothbrush and rinse

YHR

What you are seeing there is the Photo lights being reflected off exposed bare steel. It shines bright and looks white.

Here is a photo showing the close up of the charging jack. I used to strip the battery box and everthing out of the interior, but I have since changed. I leave the battery box intact and then wire in a charging jack.. This allows me to change the battery as easily as a stock tank. I found it was a waste of resources to have an upgraded 3000mAH battery for every tank.(I have 10 now). Instead I Have four good battery packs that can be used in any of the tanks.

So what you see is a female tamiya jack wired to the outside posts of a DPDT switch at the back of the tank. The middle posts from the switch then go to a wire terminal strip. The male tamiya connector that is ususally in the battery box is then wired to the terminal strip. This completes the connection from the battery to the middle posts of the DPDT switch. The unused outside posts of the DPDT are then connected to the Heng long board. So when you turn the tank off it opens up a circuit from the charging jack to the battery. When the switch is on it completes the circuit from the battery to the Heng Long board.

YHR

OK, I think I am ready to call this finished for now. I added the antenna, and finished weathering the muffler.

So basically this is a stock Heng long that I rewired.

The flag is painting aluminum foil, so is the tarp.

The bbl is fashioned out of brass and added to the short stock bbl. I bought a muzzle brake.(the only aftermarket part)

The antenna is the stock plastic base with an N scale train car coupler spring between two pieces of cut styrene tube, and steel wire. An N scale coupler screw is used to fasten it to the body of the tank.

I think this shows you don't need to spend a lot of money to get into this hobby and build a decent looking tank. 1/16 scale lends itself well to finding stuff laying around that can be used to improve the model.

The add on details Heng Long included are a step in the right direction. Now if we can just convince them to let us add the shovel and axes!!!!!