el65co

I second that Steve!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!LOL

dacostasr

I made a dragons tooth out of wood...push it into wet sand...pour in concrete patch with a coathanger stake sticking out and got these

http://rctankhq.com/Gallery/displayi...10020&pos=-175

edoubleaz

My Feedback: (1)

Second stage, as suggested I got a tub of concrete fixall and have made my phase 2 dragons teeth. They take a lot longer to set but so far I like the look.

All Tanked Up

I agree about the nail insertion. Another thing you can do is leave some of the nail sticking out from the bottom. That way, you can stick it into the ground to hold it in place. Looking good edoubleaz.

pzrwest

That is what I mean was leave some of the nail out the bottom with the head of the nail imbedded in the concrete or plaster

SCAT PATTON

The nail is a good idea, but keep in mined will not allow you to use them on house floor or drive ways, or at RCX shows for that matter
The nice thing about concret is its weight. If you wigle them into the dirt a little they wont move much.

ksoc

You cold also mount them to a narrow board small groups. This way you could quickly deploy them on a hard surface. On dirt, you could just cover the board with some lose dirt. You could also do something similar to Ethan's green foam tree holders from RCX.

You can alway cut the head off the nail, then place it in the wet concrete. Then the nail is removable, and you have the choice whether or not to use it.

streetsquid

Hi all,
OK, so I'm a little delinquent but here are the pics I had previously promised of the new battlefield items I recently completed.

I made a new guard house and road gate. The guard house is simply made out of 3/16 black foamcore, and the gate is made from 1/2 x 1/2 pine stock with a 3" screw embedded into the base for ease of "setting it" on the battle field, and the arm is made from a 5/8" wooden dowel

Plus some simple but effective hedgehogs, which are made from Plastruct angle stock, cut to length then cemented together using a liquid solvent. The hedgehogs are sprayed with a combination of Red Oxide Primer, Esspresso Brown, and Grey Primer. All rattle cans (aerosol) I just happen to have in my garage at the time

streetsquid

I also completed this new bridge to cross the Nile on the Eastern end of the train station. It's a little narrow which should make it just a little more challenging for the T1's and KT's to cross, but it sure beats the old piece of plywood we've been using.

The lower supports are all made from 1x2 which then have individual slats of 1/2 x 1/2 pine glued and nailed to the support structure. The vertical support braces are also 1/2 x 1/2 pine which has been drilled to accept the chain.

It's pretty stout I set it on the floor and stood in the middle of it with all of my weight (230 lbs) on one foot, so I'm quite sure it can handle anything else on our battlefield with ease.

streetsquid

The railroad bridge on the Western end of the train station also just got a make over. Adding paint and weathering made it look a tad bit more realistic than just the plain bright white pine it was constructed as seen in the third photo

blitzkrieg65

Nice work squid! I can't wait to see the new props that you guys have! And I am pump up to not only battle my new KT but I have changed the Pershing and have it ready to battle also!

The Blitz

SCAT PATTON

Looks great as always!

maillemaker

Hey, where did you get the stone panels and roof stuff to make those houses?

Steve

Airbrushler

this is from 2008 some of those guys are not even on here anymore...lol

Strato50

Maille I'll forward this to the local battlefield construction guys and get an opinion for you

maillemaker

What would be appropriate dimensions for a 1/16 scale dragon tooth?

Steve

maillemaker

It appears from period sources that in real life they were 3-4 feet tall. I can scale from there.

Steve

Panzerpaul

FRAG made its Dragon's teeth out of both concrete and a hard resin mix. For both types, masters were made and then rubber RTV molds were created for casting. For the larger teeth we inserted two 4" spikes (nails) into the bottom while still wet, with about 3" protruding. For the smaller teeth, use only one spike. Once these hardened, we stick the spikes into the ground as anchors and the teeth do not move when driven over. We have left them in the ground for years now and they have survived the elements, but the concrete has held up a lot better than the resin. PP

RichJohnson

All those so cal guys except ksoc are gone. I tried to find them but they are out of the hobby.

edoubleaz

My Feedback: (1)

The SCAT buildings were cast with self expanding foam in rubber molds made from scratch built masters. Reinforced and painted expertly.