Started weathering
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Started weathering
Well I just started to weather the tank using a wash similar to what streetsquid concocted using Reeves paints.
I have a long way to go and some more reworking of the colors tomorrow.
Darryl
I have a long way to go and some more reworking of the colors tomorrow.
Darryl
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RE: Started weathering
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RE: Started weathering
ORIGINAL: dazman
It's a Robert Taylor print. I collect his and Trudgian prints.
http://www.wings-fine-arts.com/
It's a Robert Taylor print. I collect his and Trudgian prints.
http://www.wings-fine-arts.com/
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RE: Started weathering
Okay guys, this is harder than I thought and I don't want to over do it.
Just enough, not enough or too much?
Thoughts or feedback please.
Just enough, not enough or too much?
Thoughts or feedback please.
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RE: Started weathering
To me it looks great! Nice job! Streetsquid said he would show me how to weather my Tiger I at the next meet, but out of curiosity what did you use/do to get your Tiger that way?
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RE: Started weathering
Brother Man,
You are on the right track (no pun intended...well maybe) however look at your wheels. Now look where the pry bar in sitting. I think you need some washes to darken those areas that would be in shadow. See also where the tow cable holders meet the hull?
Just go nice and easy until you get the effect you want. You are doing a terrific job!!!
Don
You are on the right track (no pun intended...well maybe) however look at your wheels. Now look where the pry bar in sitting. I think you need some washes to darken those areas that would be in shadow. See also where the tow cable holders meet the hull?
Just go nice and easy until you get the effect you want. You are doing a terrific job!!!
Don
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RE: Started weathering
ORIGINAL: torpedochief
Brother Man,
You are on the right track (no pun intended...well maybe) however look at your wheels. Now look where the pry bar in sitting. I think you need some washes to darken those areas that would be in shadow. See also where the tow cable holders meet the hull?
Just go nice and easy until you get the effect you want. You are doing a terrific job!!!
Don
Brother Man,
You are on the right track (no pun intended...well maybe) however look at your wheels. Now look where the pry bar in sitting. I think you need some washes to darken those areas that would be in shadow. See also where the tow cable holders meet the hull?
Just go nice and easy until you get the effect you want. You are doing a terrific job!!!
Don
As soon as I saw the photo I realized I missed above the road wheels. I have a lot of work ahead of me as I'm still learning as I go along.
Pzjgr, I used streetsquid's method with the the Reeves paints.
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RE: Started weathering
dazman,
I agree with Don, your Tiger looks fantastic. I'm very impressed and I definitely think you are on the right track. Don pointed out a few areas that I saw as well, and sounds as if you are going to address those. I also agree with his philosophy, go slow and take your time, I would just add "step back often and look at your work from different angles and in different light". I often will get up from my model bench and take an in-progress model into the bathroom, kitchen, or dining room just to view it under different lights.
The nice thing about using the water colors is that until you seal them there is pretty much nothing you can't undo if you don't like it. One other observation, from the photo it appears you have done most of your work using burnt sienna (reddish tones) but don't be afraid to get into the raw umber, raw sienna, yellow ochre, and Payne's grey. They will add a lot of depth and variation of color while making the details pop. You can also use colored pencil and pastels to add scratches and dirty things up and make it look dusty
Squid
I agree with Don, your Tiger looks fantastic. I'm very impressed and I definitely think you are on the right track. Don pointed out a few areas that I saw as well, and sounds as if you are going to address those. I also agree with his philosophy, go slow and take your time, I would just add "step back often and look at your work from different angles and in different light". I often will get up from my model bench and take an in-progress model into the bathroom, kitchen, or dining room just to view it under different lights.
The nice thing about using the water colors is that until you seal them there is pretty much nothing you can't undo if you don't like it. One other observation, from the photo it appears you have done most of your work using burnt sienna (reddish tones) but don't be afraid to get into the raw umber, raw sienna, yellow ochre, and Payne's grey. They will add a lot of depth and variation of color while making the details pop. You can also use colored pencil and pastels to add scratches and dirty things up and make it look dusty
Squid
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RE: Started weathering
ORIGINAL: streetsquid
dazman,
I agree with Don, your Tiger looks fantastic. I'm very impressed and I definitely think you are on the right track. Don pointed out a few areas that I saw as well, and sounds as if you are going to address those. I also agree with his philosophy, go slow and take your time, I would just add "step back often and look at your work from different angles and in different light". I often will get up from my model bench and take an in-progress model into the bathroom, kitchen, or dining room just to view it under different lights.
The nice thing about using the water colors is that until you seal them there is pretty much nothing you can't undo if you don't like it. One other observation, from the photo it appears you have done most of your work using burnt sienna (reddish tones) but don't be afraid to get into the raw umber, raw sienna, yellow ochre, and Payne's grey. They will add a lot of depth and variation of color while making the details pop. You can also use colored pencil and pastels to add scratches and dirty things up and make it look dusty
Squid
dazman,
I agree with Don, your Tiger looks fantastic. I'm very impressed and I definitely think you are on the right track. Don pointed out a few areas that I saw as well, and sounds as if you are going to address those. I also agree with his philosophy, go slow and take your time, I would just add "step back often and look at your work from different angles and in different light". I often will get up from my model bench and take an in-progress model into the bathroom, kitchen, or dining room just to view it under different lights.
The nice thing about using the water colors is that until you seal them there is pretty much nothing you can't undo if you don't like it. One other observation, from the photo it appears you have done most of your work using burnt sienna (reddish tones) but don't be afraid to get into the raw umber, raw sienna, yellow ochre, and Payne's grey. They will add a lot of depth and variation of color while making the details pop. You can also use colored pencil and pastels to add scratches and dirty things up and make it look dusty
Squid
I used raw umber and yellow ochre, but I mixed them. I have a lot of work to do as I've only just started. I'll try some of the colors you mentioned without mixing to see what the effects are. I love your method as it gives you the freedom to experiment because the paints are water based.
You've inspired me.
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RE: Started weathering
dazman,
Glad to hear you like the technique. I'm all about simple, relatively quick and inexpensive methods as long as they get you decent results, and so far the water colors have proven to do just that.
In fact I'm using them right now on some tank commanders I'm doing for a club mate. I use the water colors for figures as well. You may have seen the thread I did previously about painting figures using acrylics and water colors.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_72...tm.htm#7284065
This time I'm painting the Tiger I, Panther, and Leo figures from Tamiya
Again lots of flexibility, and they dry quickly, plus you can easily move the paint around even after it has dried or completely wash it off and start over. You gotta love that!
I don't know about being an inspiration but I'm glad you found the water color technique intriguing enough to try it out.
regards,
Squid
Glad to hear you like the technique. I'm all about simple, relatively quick and inexpensive methods as long as they get you decent results, and so far the water colors have proven to do just that.
In fact I'm using them right now on some tank commanders I'm doing for a club mate. I use the water colors for figures as well. You may have seen the thread I did previously about painting figures using acrylics and water colors.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_72...tm.htm#7284065
This time I'm painting the Tiger I, Panther, and Leo figures from Tamiya
Again lots of flexibility, and they dry quickly, plus you can easily move the paint around even after it has dried or completely wash it off and start over. You gotta love that!
I don't know about being an inspiration but I'm glad you found the water color technique intriguing enough to try it out.
regards,
Squid
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RE: Started weathering
This is taking longer than I thought and it's harder than I figured it would be using water colours.
So I wiped the side of the hull clean and I've been using an airbush. As you can see the turret has not been touched but I will tone it down some what to match the hull. There is a lot of work to be done as I experiment, but I think the tone down is better.
Pic on the left is before and the one on the right after (toned down).
Thoughts?
So I wiped the side of the hull clean and I've been using an airbush. As you can see the turret has not been touched but I will tone it down some what to match the hull. There is a lot of work to be done as I experiment, but I think the tone down is better.
Pic on the left is before and the one on the right after (toned down).
Thoughts?
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RE: Started weathering
Make sure you put the decals on before you do all the weathering (or the decals will stick out too much) Remember to gloss the surface where the decals will go. You can put a flat finish over the decals to seal them and even out the sheen over the tank.
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RE: Started weathering
dazman,
Looking really great! Don't get too discouraged with the water colors, the beauty of them is that you can play around and experiment and none of it is permanent until you choose to seal it with a clear coat.
Don't be afraid to go back in and rework areas with a damp brush, or add additional layers of washes over the top of what you have already applied. You can push the paint around, soften edges, or completely wipe areas that you don't like. Just keep working it until you get to the look you're happy with. And if you keep working an area and it's not getting any closer, stop - take off the water color using a wet brush and start over.
And remember we are always our own worst critic. Post pictures often and ask for input, people generally won't lie to you, but they may see something you've missed, or may add the encouragement you need to get through the project.
Seriously, the TI is looking great!
Squid
Looking really great! Don't get too discouraged with the water colors, the beauty of them is that you can play around and experiment and none of it is permanent until you choose to seal it with a clear coat.
Don't be afraid to go back in and rework areas with a damp brush, or add additional layers of washes over the top of what you have already applied. You can push the paint around, soften edges, or completely wipe areas that you don't like. Just keep working it until you get to the look you're happy with. And if you keep working an area and it's not getting any closer, stop - take off the water color using a wet brush and start over.
And remember we are always our own worst critic. Post pictures often and ask for input, people generally won't lie to you, but they may see something you've missed, or may add the encouragement you need to get through the project.
Seriously, the TI is looking great!
Squid
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RE: Started weathering
I like it, it looks good!
By the way, how did you treat your tracks? I have impact tracks myselfe and looking for a way to make 'em look better.
Gabriel
By the way, how did you treat your tracks? I have impact tracks myselfe and looking for a way to make 'em look better.
Gabriel
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RE: Started weathering
Thanks for all the kind comments.
Just painted the exhaust with water colours, man I love them.
And no the back is not weathered yet.
Just painted the exhaust with water colours, man I love them.
And no the back is not weathered yet.
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RE: Started weathering
dazman,
Once again looking awesome, and glad to hear the enthusiasm in your post about using water colors. Just takes a little practice, and and patience and you'll have them mastered in no time.
Your exhaust look quite nice, but one observation if I may. Overall they look very nice, but maybe just a bit too orange. I've had pretty good results with rust effects, and learned that only new rust takes on an orange appearance. If you make the exhaust a darker brown color and then highlight with oranges and even yellows it will give you a more modeled and weathered (read realistic) appearance. If you want to get really daring, you can also add the pitted texture of rust using the baking soda technique.
Here are few examples of my rust attempts, all are done with with acrylics and water colors. The Panther exhaust was achieved using salt weathering, while the TI exhaust and spare road wheel on the Sdkfz 251 were pitted using baking soda, and the spare tracks on the front of the 251 are acrylics and water colors only.
Since I encouraged you to post as many pics as possible and solicit feedback, I just thought I would share my humble opinion. I only hope you take this as constructive comments and not a criticism. Looking great all the way round honestly!
Squid
Once again looking awesome, and glad to hear the enthusiasm in your post about using water colors. Just takes a little practice, and and patience and you'll have them mastered in no time.
Your exhaust look quite nice, but one observation if I may. Overall they look very nice, but maybe just a bit too orange. I've had pretty good results with rust effects, and learned that only new rust takes on an orange appearance. If you make the exhaust a darker brown color and then highlight with oranges and even yellows it will give you a more modeled and weathered (read realistic) appearance. If you want to get really daring, you can also add the pitted texture of rust using the baking soda technique.
Here are few examples of my rust attempts, all are done with with acrylics and water colors. The Panther exhaust was achieved using salt weathering, while the TI exhaust and spare road wheel on the Sdkfz 251 were pitted using baking soda, and the spare tracks on the front of the 251 are acrylics and water colors only.
Since I encouraged you to post as many pics as possible and solicit feedback, I just thought I would share my humble opinion. I only hope you take this as constructive comments and not a criticism. Looking great all the way round honestly!
Squid