heng long kv upgrade parts?
07-23-2009, 01:03 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: gravesend, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 416
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
heng long kv upgrade parts?
does anyone know if the folowing upgrade parts for the heng long kv are avalible or in the works at least?
stronger suspension springs: the tank drags its ass like a dog with worms the jag had the same issue but the other end
headlamp: the stock one is weird, looks like a satalite dish
taillamp cover: nice to have but i could probably scratch build this
working exausts: so the smoke can come out were it should rather than via the tail lamp
any info appriciated
stronger suspension springs: the tank drags its ass like a dog with worms the jag had the same issue but the other end
headlamp: the stock one is weird, looks like a satalite dish
taillamp cover: nice to have but i could probably scratch build this
working exausts: so the smoke can come out were it should rather than via the tail lamp
any info appriciated
07-23-2009, 02:28 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Staffanstorp, SWEDEN
Posts: 239
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: heng long kv upgrade parts?
Hi,
Check:
Adjustable idler etc.
http://www.tank-modellbau.de/
KV-2 Turret
http://mmodell.de/forum/index.php?pa...&threadID=2249
Alu hull (comming)
http://mmodell.de/forum/index.php?pa...&threadID=2107
Headlamp, Exhaust etc.
http://mmodell.de/forum/index.php?pa...&threadID=2165
Regards
Jake
Check:
Adjustable idler etc.
http://www.tank-modellbau.de/
KV-2 Turret
http://mmodell.de/forum/index.php?pa...&threadID=2249
Alu hull (comming)
http://mmodell.de/forum/index.php?pa...&threadID=2107
Headlamp, Exhaust etc.
http://mmodell.de/forum/index.php?pa...&threadID=2165
Regards
Jake
07-24-2009, 01:45 AM
#4
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: San Paolo Solbrito, ITALY
Posts: 1,536
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes
on
15 Posts
RE: heng long kv upgrade parts?
Another source for headlamp, driver and commander hatches, AA MG etc. is :
http://www.imperial-modellbau.de/shop/index2.htm
AS for the stronger springs, you really don't need to change them, just drill another hole 90° from the original one and put the sping end into that. You also don't need to do that for all the wheels, just the firs and last 2 couples.
http://www.imperial-modellbau.de/shop/index2.htm
AS for the stronger springs, you really don't need to change them, just drill another hole 90° from the original one and put the sping end into that. You also don't need to do that for all the wheels, just the firs and last 2 couples.
07-24-2009, 06:03 AM
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: gravesend, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 416
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
RE: heng long kv upgrade parts?
thanks, as for the springs i may have a solution to that one the upgrade springs for the jag are the same size as the kvs so i may be able to use them on the kv i have a spare upgrade spring for my jagdpanther somewere ill see if that fits
07-24-2009, 08:09 PM
#6
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Port Angeles,
WA
Posts: 1,272
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: heng long kv upgrade parts?
easy suspension mod
quote:
ORIGINAL: RMStinson
Kclank; your suspension mod sounds like just the thing. Could you expand on your process? Is there anything to be wary of, like springs boinging across the room? How did you reclock? TIA.
Naw nothing spcial i Think we have covered it before in other posts but just to freshen the subject.
1st thing is to remove the idlers. As Bolman mentioned be careful as there are 3 people who assemble these things. One forgets to put in the fastener, One just barely turns the fastener, and One uses a 48" breaker bar to tighten the fasteners.
2. loosen then allen head bolt in the suspension arm and lift the arm so it swings out of it's bumper stop.
3. remove the bolt completely and remove the suspension arm. The spring will stay in place but do watch for a small washer that might want to move away.
4.remove the spring and you will see a small hole that one end of the spring fits into
5. drill a new hole the same size at 90 degrees to the original hole. (towards the aft end of the tank)
6. reinsert the spring with the end of the spring in the new pin hole
7. Reassembly requires a bit of dexterity, but start to put the susension arm back on while guiding the long end of the spring into the slot on the back of the suspension arm. A wire hook or thin needle nose pliers helps.
8.Start the bolt back in a couple of threads then slighly lift the arm and set it back into it's bumper stop (notch in the hull)
9. Secure the bolt snug, but not to tight as you can break off the mount.
10. repeat for the next arm.
Hints. Loosen, and lift from the hull stops, the arms next to the one you want to modify as it will make reinstalltion of the modified arm easier. you don't have to remove them just let them swing down out of the way.
While you have things apart you might want to paint over the black "rubber tires" on the road wheels with green, silver, steel, aluminum paint to look like the steel wheels they were. The return rollers are ok as some were steel and some were rubber.
I just did the front 4 and rear 4 suspension arms and left the center 4 stock. It worked well for me. You could make this mod to all the arms at the same time and even put in a couple of new holes at each suspension point to add more ability to tune the suspension in the future.
BTW I also removed the sprocket hub caps and put a tiny dab of shoe goo (ruberized cement) on the tangs of the cap to reduce the opportunity to fall off. The shoe goo, when used in small amounts is real pliable and can be removed when needed to service the sprocket.
work slow, have fun!
quote:
ORIGINAL: RMStinson
Kclank; your suspension mod sounds like just the thing. Could you expand on your process? Is there anything to be wary of, like springs boinging across the room? How did you reclock? TIA.
Naw nothing spcial i Think we have covered it before in other posts but just to freshen the subject.
1st thing is to remove the idlers. As Bolman mentioned be careful as there are 3 people who assemble these things. One forgets to put in the fastener, One just barely turns the fastener, and One uses a 48" breaker bar to tighten the fasteners.
2. loosen then allen head bolt in the suspension arm and lift the arm so it swings out of it's bumper stop.
3. remove the bolt completely and remove the suspension arm. The spring will stay in place but do watch for a small washer that might want to move away.
4.remove the spring and you will see a small hole that one end of the spring fits into
5. drill a new hole the same size at 90 degrees to the original hole. (towards the aft end of the tank)
6. reinsert the spring with the end of the spring in the new pin hole
7. Reassembly requires a bit of dexterity, but start to put the susension arm back on while guiding the long end of the spring into the slot on the back of the suspension arm. A wire hook or thin needle nose pliers helps.
8.Start the bolt back in a couple of threads then slighly lift the arm and set it back into it's bumper stop (notch in the hull)
9. Secure the bolt snug, but not to tight as you can break off the mount.
10. repeat for the next arm.
Hints. Loosen, and lift from the hull stops, the arms next to the one you want to modify as it will make reinstalltion of the modified arm easier. you don't have to remove them just let them swing down out of the way.
While you have things apart you might want to paint over the black "rubber tires" on the road wheels with green, silver, steel, aluminum paint to look like the steel wheels they were. The return rollers are ok as some were steel and some were rubber.
I just did the front 4 and rear 4 suspension arms and left the center 4 stock. It worked well for me. You could make this mod to all the arms at the same time and even put in a couple of new holes at each suspension point to add more ability to tune the suspension in the future.
BTW I also removed the sprocket hub caps and put a tiny dab of shoe goo (ruberized cement) on the tangs of the cap to reduce the opportunity to fall off. The shoe goo, when used in small amounts is real pliable and can be removed when needed to service the sprocket.
work slow, have fun!
