Anyone "made" low current wiring?
#1
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Anyone "made" low current wiring?
I'm trying to make the Notek light functional on my HL StuG.
Already hollowed out the hood, and drilled out the mounting post, so wiring can fit through it. Have an LCD that I can make fit, problem is wiring the LCD.
Already tried using the smallest insulated wire I could find for +, and stripped wire as the -. Just one insulated is enough. I need to shrink the diameter though. I also need to get the wires attached right at the LED, so heat is out. BTDT.
I'm thinking the easiest way to run wiring is to strip the insulation, and reduce the number of wires. Already tested, one copper strand is enough for the LED to work, but I need some sort of electrical barrier to keep the bare +/- wires from touching. Anyone have any idea about how to insulate one of those wires? The shrink wrap tubing I've got is too big as well. I sourced wire out of CAT5 (computer) cable, which is what is too big, and I don't have access to any wire smaller than that, at least that I'm aware of. I'm trying to keep from having to go to a specialty store since I'm a long ways from any place like that.
Decided I should be able to glue the wire(s) on the leads for the LED. Not going to be sturdy, but once the light/wires are mounted, I'm going to epoxy it all in place so the wires are secure.
Already hollowed out the hood, and drilled out the mounting post, so wiring can fit through it. Have an LCD that I can make fit, problem is wiring the LCD.
Already tried using the smallest insulated wire I could find for +, and stripped wire as the -. Just one insulated is enough. I need to shrink the diameter though. I also need to get the wires attached right at the LED, so heat is out. BTDT.
I'm thinking the easiest way to run wiring is to strip the insulation, and reduce the number of wires. Already tested, one copper strand is enough for the LED to work, but I need some sort of electrical barrier to keep the bare +/- wires from touching. Anyone have any idea about how to insulate one of those wires? The shrink wrap tubing I've got is too big as well. I sourced wire out of CAT5 (computer) cable, which is what is too big, and I don't have access to any wire smaller than that, at least that I'm aware of. I'm trying to keep from having to go to a specialty store since I'm a long ways from any place like that.
Decided I should be able to glue the wire(s) on the leads for the LED. Not going to be sturdy, but once the light/wires are mounted, I'm going to epoxy it all in place so the wires are secure.
#4
RE: Anyone
Try and find liquid electrical tape. I use it for insulating the underside of my RX18 boards after I take them out of the plastic box. It's like rubber glue - has a brush in the lid, you just paint it ove the wire. I've got it in red and black.
#5
RE: Anyone
Paint or varnish, since the voltage is low the insulation property should not be a problem. Be sure to check that there is no short before connecting power. Two coats may be necessary. This way you can use as small a strand as possible. Paint each conductor separately.
#6
RE: Anyone
As mentioned, you can either insulate your own with varnish, CA, or some sort of paint.
Or use magnet wire, which has a very thin coating already. A good cheap source for very fine magnet wire is a mechanical timer from Walmart (the type you plug a lamp into and have 2 little clips you move around a dial to set the on-off times), they have a spool of fine magnet wire (thinner than hair). You may need to carefully scrape the coating off to get it to solder though, or heat it with a soldering iron on an aspirin tablet (but don't breath the acidic fumes!)
D.
Or use magnet wire, which has a very thin coating already. A good cheap source for very fine magnet wire is a mechanical timer from Walmart (the type you plug a lamp into and have 2 little clips you move around a dial to set the on-off times), they have a spool of fine magnet wire (thinner than hair). You may need to carefully scrape the coating off to get it to solder though, or heat it with a soldering iron on an aspirin tablet (but don't breath the acidic fumes!)
D.