Panzerpaul

Gentlemen: Thought I’d share with you my recently finished RC Hetzer and tell a little of how it was created. There will be 7 posts in all, so please do not comment until I get these all in sequence.

This model is essentially a resin top hull, metal lower hull, reinforced running gear and lots of brass PE. I also made up a kit of this model and sent it to one of our compatriots in Spain, so in the future I hope we can enjoy some of his pictures as well. If anyone else is interested …..let me know by PM.

I chose the paint scheme loosely based on another model that I had pictures of. It didn’t turn out quite the way I had hoped, but is none the less pretty nice looking. The pictures in this initial post are of the Hetzer setting on the diorama I created for photo shoots. Some of you have seen this before.

Panzerpaul

These next set of pictures show the basic kit that I can produce. Its of a “craftsman” nature, meaning that the faint of heart should not take a crack at it. It requires good modeling skills for drilling & tapping fastners, installing all the electronics and radio system (you have to acquire these yourself), modification to the tracks so they are durable, brass fabrication and soldering (if you chose to go the same route I did), and of course painting, detailing and weathering.

I hope these pictures post in the order I have written them up. If not, hope you can figure it out: Pix 1 shows all the basic parts for the project. Pix 2-4 is the Upper Hull casting and rubber mold I made (very heavy and took 3 lbs of RTV). Pix 5-6 is the template and resulting Lower Hull metal pan (only took 4 attempts to get this right….. …..) Pix 7-9 are of the mounting bracket for the Gearbox and how it sets in the metal pan. And Pix 10 shows the cast pewter Return Roller assembly. I had intended to make the Drive Sprocket out of pewter as well, but was unable to come up with a crisp enough casting, so I changed over to a powdered aluminum/resin casting and that has worked just fine. You can see that result (gray color) in the first picture.

Panzerpaul

These pictures will show you the brass PE parts I elected to make as substitutes. Someone else may not want to go this route, but I enjoy creating parts in brass, although there is a real challenge to soldering. I like the feel and look that comes with metal, but styrene fabrication can also achieve a durable result. Or one could just use the cast resin parts in the first place……its all up to the modeler. Pix 1-3 show the 4 Fenders. Pix 4-5 are of the Muffler. This was challenge as it was so thin, but I was able to bend and solder it around a wood dowel, and then mate the two cylinders. Pix 6 is of the side Schirtzen and Pix 7 is the MG armored plates (also note that I made miniature hinges for the hatches). The Hetzer had a fixed mounted MG that was controlled automatically from inside. Pix 8-10 are of the wood Jack Block and Tool Box. Pix 11-12 are the Gunner’s Scope bracket and one of the extra Track link Retention Brackets (total of 3). Making the Butterfly Nuts was a real challenge….soldering 3 tiny parts together (see final picture set).

Panzerpaul

This set of pictures is mostly of the inside electronics and track. I prefer Tamiya controls over HL or Mato, so my design was to accommodate these, but I will add that there would probably be more room inside using HL electronics. Pix 1 & 2 show all of the Electronics and Gearboxes fully installed. Everything is hard wired to save room and to limit excess wires getting tangled. Pix 2 is with the Speaker in place. Pix 3 shows the styrene frame for holding the speaker. This is not the speaker that comes with standard Tamiya models. Because of space limitations, I bought an oblong shaped one and mounted it so it could be easily removed. Pix 4 shows the entire underside of the Upper Hull. I used 2 “mini servos” for MG and Barrel control. The MG servo was rewired so that it has 2 wire actuation (just like a regular motor) and power/speed is limited with a Potentiometer(Rheostat) (see Pix 5-7). There was no room for a design to make the Barrel move both up/down as well as sideways, nor for recoil, so I elected to go with sideways movement only and the second mini servo does that. It still has 3 wire control, so it is plugged directly into the radio receiver. Pix 8 shows the Battery configuration. This is a standard 7.2 volt rechargeable, reconfigured to fit the small confines of the Hetzer. I also installed a charging jack into the circuit so that it can be recharged from the exterior. Pix 9 shows the Track Links and Pins. It was not practical to make 144 individual cast links and to drill 288 holes, nor did I think that resin would stand up under operational demands, so I chose to use Tamiya’s 1/25th scale plastic Panther tracks (bet you could not tell that in the diorama pictures). These are the only ones I could find with the correct double guide fin pattern for the wheels. Using these tracks also required a retooling of the Drive Sprocket to have a couple less teeth and afforded the opportunity to beef them up a bit. The true Hetzer drive sprocket has more pointed teeth, but the modified one still looks good. I cut off all the original plastic hinges in each track link, drilled out two holes in each one and inserted steel pins so that the track would hold together under operation. The Track result is a bit stiff, but runs nicely and slows the Gearbox speed down somewhat. Pix 10 is of the rear of the Upper Hull with most of the brass and cable parts installed.

This model is also wired for Tamiya's TBU which can be seen in Pix 4

ArmChairGeneral

Nice work ! Are you selling these and how much if you are ?

BiggTony

WOW WOW WOW WOW!!!!

Impressive work! How well is the powdered aluminum resin holing up? I was considering casting some accessories and new sets of road wheels in the past, but from what I understand the aluminum addition (or any metal powder) to the resin is purely aesthetic and doesn't assist with strengthening the composition. Which is why I've moved on to casting with nickel babbitt.

Regardless, that is just awesome! Thanks for sharing!

Panzerpaul

I’d like to show next what was required for the painting design. All the basic work was completed with an airbrush set at about 12 psi. The intention was to have a brown “dot” pattern over a light green base. I don’t normally use acrylic paints, but it was the only choice for the green color I wanted. The brown pattern was done in enamel and over this was added chalk weathering (affixed with Testor’s Dullcoat), with final coatings of very light brown and dirt color sprayed directly from cans. Be careful here, as you have to move the spray can very quickly from side to side so the coating is light. Don’t over do it, wait for it to dry to see the actual effect, and if you are then satisfied, spray the whole model in Dullcoat one last time. In a couple of close up pictures you will note a few small paint spots on the muffler. This is what happens if the can was not shaken well enough and/or the spray can is not moved fast enough sideways.

Pix 1-2 show how the Upper Hull was taped with the pattern. A small hand held hole punch created the hole pattern. Pix 3-4 show the brown paint over-sprayed. The dots were very definitive in Pix 3 and 4, but in Pix 5 shows where I tried to blend the dots and buffer the hard lines some……resulting in pretty much obliterating the dot pattern. Not what I had wanted, but “oh well” once done, you have to live with it. Pix 6 shows the overall model weathered with chalks so that you end up with a dirty diffused look. Pix 7-8 are of the Drive Sprocket, and the rest are close-ups of various final painted and weathered parts.

I like my models to look dirty from operation, so I tend to add chalks in heavy doses, coated by Dullcoat. You can see this effect in a number of the following photos where dirt seems piled here and there.

The next 2 posts show a bunch more of the final painted and weathered parts for your viewing pleasure. As said before, I can make up these parts for you if you want a Hetzer too…..just contact me by PM. Hope you enjoyed all the pictures. Panzerpaul

Panzerpaul

Additional pictures

Panzerpaul

Final pictures

Panzerpaul

The powdered aluminum additive strengthens the resin.........at least from my testing standpoint. I cast drive sprockets in both regular and aluminum added resin, then applied presure against both and also tried to bend and break both. The reinforced was much tougher. It took pliers pulling two ways to really rip them apart. So far the reinforced sprocket teeth have held up well interfacing with the plastic tracks, and I have quite a few hours of run time on them. I can report better later on after FRAG holds a few battles. PP

BiggTony

Good to know!
I find your work pretty amazing. How long did this take you to complete if you don't mind me asking?

herrmill

Nice work!

thebronze

Very Kool....Nice work

Tanque

Ingenious and clever work! First class!

torpedochief

Paul, That is a very well executed project! Thank you for sharing this. It must be a real hoot to see that thing moving!

Got an idea for you if I may. When you cast your sprockets or anything for that matter it might makethem even tougher if you put in bits of carbon fiber...kinda like rebar. The guys who do model subs use this in the control surfaces to give them that little extra strength.

Terrific job!!


Don

Panzerpaul

Dedmonwakin: Thanks for the praises. It took about 9 months off and on to complete. Some of that time was wasted learning to make and cast pewter in hi-temp molds, that failing, I then learned and tried the lost wax casting process but could not find a foundry to cast in bronze for a reasonable price, so it was back to the aluminum powder mix. Also a couple months were spent making RTV molds for all the parts, so I could send a kit to my friend in Spain. I had not originally planned to make this a full kit, but decided after working all the bugs out that others might like a Hetzer as well. I suppose had I just made it for myself, I could have done it in 4 months (spending an hour or two at night during weekdays).

Torpedochief: That is an excellent idea..........carbon fiber. I will try to locate some and give it a shot. Yeah........its real cool watching it run, but its like a tiny brother setting next to my Jagdpanther............. I think it will be real successful in our FRAG battles since it can hide practically anywhere.

thecommander

Hi Paul,

That Hetzer looks great Paul. Nice job. I've always loved them and I got a great chance to pour all over one at the Virginia Military Vehicle Assn. grounds near Manasas VA last fall at their open house. I have a H L Stug III that I converted to Tamiya TBS with IR. I love to battle with my low profile tanks since they are hard to hit.
Bob, thecommandernj

borealis

Amazing display of craftmanship and learning, congratulations!

HG1980

wow

Rex Ross

Absolutely beautiful. After looking at your Hetzer, I threw mine away.

suckerforamoneypit

WOW

Rebellion13

Lol Rex, Incredible detail. I am in awe.

Panzerpaul

Thanks guys for the kind words. This was a great project. I never did a complete scratch build like this before. It was a real challenge, but well worth the effort. Hope some others of you out there will share your similar work. PP

Oldarmr

I don't often reply here, mostly because I like to just see what others have done, this is just amazing, I have always been a fan of the Hetzer, what you have done is, well I really can't say, if I was a manufacturer I would be embarrassed by what you have done.

That is one of the best, if not the best custom I have seen, you sir, are a true craftsman, thank you for sharing this with us.

Panzerpaul

You are very kind Oldarmr. Thank you for the compliment. I do hope some manufacturer eventually comes out with a Hetzer. Then I would have the track and drive sprockets that are correct. I hate to make compromises when building a model, but that was one I could not avoid. Although mine look pretty close, I would much rather have them be exact. PP