uomemoney

brand new trophy 4.6, unbashed, I'm having issues with the radio or servos or something... Here's the story :while I'm driving the car the throttle and steering seems to become unresponsive, sometimes the throttle gets stuck it seems at full throttle though i have released the throttle from the controller... The issue seems to be getting worse, i replaced all batteries but no luck.... any advice?if someone could point in the direction of a good tuning guide that would be greatly appreciated, I've played the hsn and lsn but no sure if I'm optimal yet..also when i unboxed thisbad boy, the antenna on the car is only about 4in doesn't even stick out of the truck body or use the antenna tube... thought there was more inside the battery housing but nope... any suggestions?

Anthoop

Tuning video- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=prX0OeQLrbw
As for the radio problems- check batterys are fresh/fully charged and everything is connected properly. Also could be chaffed/broken wires, check this by tuning the reciever and transmitter on (engine off) and give all wires etc a good wobble whilst operating the controls.
The 2.4ghz receivers do have short antenna.

Edit- Is there a some kind of set up process for the radio in the instruction manual (binding)? Maybe worth running through that again.
Edit2- If it is a new engnine then you should break the engine in before tuning for performance.

uomemoney

got the issue figured out, turns out the negative wire on my battery pack is broken, hpi has replacements on its website :\ that is what was causing the crazy servo issues.

now when i have the car starting it needs alot of throttle to stay running, it dies after a few min of idle.
hpi faq says something is melted?!?!

Anthoop

Did you have a look at the tuning video? If it sounds "gurgly" with lots of smoke and oil spitting out of the exhaust then it is rich.
When an engine idles for minutes then it can not burn off all of the fuel and so eventually will flood and stall, when rich.

Why are you idling the engine for minutes?

uomemoney

i did watch the video, i guess im just not sure which one is causing the problem... i had the idle at 1mm like it said, but right when i hit the gas it just bogs down, or just dies immediately.. so im not sure what the deal is... and even when i set the needles back to stock it wanted to shut off.

it is 2.4gh so that explains the short wire... wish hpi was a little more detailed in there instruction manuals, it took me a week to figure out how to use the suspension clips lmao

Anthoop

Ensure to get the engine warmed up before tuning as the video says. Adjust one needle at a time...HSN first...and concentrate on the high speed...if you have to open the throttle slowly to get it there then that is fine. All the info is in that video, try watching it through a few times until you understand it. Learning to tune is seemingly impossible at the start but stick with it and you will get there.

uomemoney

got it tuned in real nice! thanks for your help... but I've had a few mishaps since my last post lol, snapped a front uj the part where the wheel screws in, and now today the real axle where the Tire screws in.... any way to get better ones than stock? given i was going pretty fast, it only took one tumble and it was over lol.

Anthoop

I can not really help with upgrade parts....but I see some option parts on the HPI website- http://www.hpieurope.com/options.php...&partNo=101705
I am not all that sure what parts you need or if upgrades would be available, try to identify the parts you need on that site.
Glad you got it up and running nicely though.

SyCo_VeNoM

the trophy line is not that good unfortunately
might be better to look for something like a jammin X1 CRT roller for around $100 and slap the engine into that and sell off the HPI as a roller to someone else

I just say this cause I've seen other users that had the same exact issues as you did. They replaced the part it broke again from some mild hit, upgraded it broke again, and by the time they were done they spent more in 2-3 months than a decent racing rig costs
From what Foxy (the moderator for the section) in Europe the model was known to be a lemon pretty much

outlawbrett

i havent had a single problem with my 4.6 trophy. i think some people have issues with every brand an some dont. but to say a certain brand is a lemon? i dont know abou that. especially when u dont own one. u can go on any forum and there will be some people that say they have problems with all sorts of manufactures cars. my trophy 4.6 is my favorite basher. just for that reason. its tough a $2 steak. maybe im just lucky...my .02

SyCo_VeNoM

you are the 2nd person out of 10ish to say it was good. The other guy had $150 in parts on his though so he don't count.
Everyone else reported similar issues that they had(namely drive cups, and dogbones from what I remember, and a few other things), people who have seen them reported seeing similar issues.
I will say most the people have issues with the brushless version as it seems HPI didn't bother strengthening it at all and the parts like the dogbones snap like twigs.

Seriously though theres usually more than 2 people for any model to say how great it is. This is one of the few models I've seen more negative on then positive so that does say a lot (HPI Brama 10b, and recon are the other 2 that I think have more negative then positives)
Now granted every ones form of bashing is different

Also no one said HPI only sells lemons... I have a few that are great RC's like the savage, and the wheelie king, and the Nitro MT1 I had one that was a lemon, and one that worked great(seriously the one I could never figure out its issue) Hell I've owned at least 7-8 HPI RC's. I've heard only good things about the blitz, firestorm, and a couple others I've not owned or touched. The poor models that there seem to be more defective ones than good are the Brama 10b, Recon, and trophy line.

Example of one thing working great where there are a ton of failures back 9 years or so ago I owned a motherboard for my PC. Me and 6 other ppl I knew bought it. Within 1 year 5 of them blew within weeks of each other. Met a guy a month or so later who had 3 that blew. Guess what to the one person who had a board that didn't blow there were 8 that I knew that all failed in the same exact way, but to that one person it was great (turned out there was a major defect in parts used that effected 80% of the boards). So yes you might have one of the flawless ones, but like I said I've not read many great things on it period here or elsewhere.

JoeMaxx

The only problems I had with my new HPI 4.6 Trophy was the alignment of the steering servo and linkage then  the toe out was like looking at Marty Feldman in Young Frankestein.    The only thing that was missing was the hump on his back moving from side to side.

Once I spent about an hour centering everything with the linkage and radio system I was able to take it out one December Day in the 60s to start to perform the engine break in process.   I only got about 4 tanks into it because I had to run the engine rich and the outdoor temps were not optimal for break in.   SO I will wait until spring to finish it when the outdoor temps get above 70 degrees outside. 


One thing I did not like about HPIs suggestion of a breakin was they suggested running the first tank at idle off the ground.   Free Wheeling an engine on the first tank is the worst thing you can do IMO and so do many other engine manufactures that have been around longer.  I believe in a 5 to 6 tank process if you want the engines to last a long time.   Nova Rossi suggests a 7 to 8 Tank breakin process on their High Compression engines.

How do I break in the engine?A gas powered engine requires careful running in to allow the internal parts to achieve proper operating clearances.
Enrich the fuel-mixture from factory position by turning the main needle 1/2 turn counter-clockwise. Run the car up to half-speed (at most) using moderate acceleration. Do this for 4 - 5 tanks of fuel. On the next 3 tanks of fuel, slowly increase the speed and acceleration, and start leaning the main needle setting by turning the needle clockwise.

http://novarossi.us/content/view/64/71/

Berrymartin

If it's a2.4Ghz radio, they use short receiver antennas. Really short compared to theold ones.

It sounds like something in your linkage or carb are binding. I'd take the hornof the t/b servo and slide the linkage by hand to see if you can feel when itrequires a lot of force, the figure out why and fix it.<o></o>

********

Regards,

Berry

Barrymartin

uomemoney

thanks for all the replys!!! ive truggy was running great since my last post, and then it rained.............
i took the motor off to replace the pull starter. got it back on, lined up good, starts right up.
silly me forgot the locktite and the motor slid and grinded up my clutch bell right nice!

soooo i ordered my replacement clutch bell and shoes and spring, that seems to be what all was shredded, i ordered the center spur gear just in case!
but, the clutch bell hpi sent me, is shorter than the original and when i assembled it, it had a little play between the bearings, and at its furthest point out you could see the white shoes? any ideas?

nitroexpress

Does this look like the same size that they sent you?


Use some clutch shims to tighten it up. Don't reduce all the play, a small amount is needed.
If only a small amount of shoes are showing, it will probably be OK. Next time order the proper clutch bell, or you could give HPI a call for the correct longer one.