Fuel??
02-21-2013, 10:55 AM
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Fuel??
I have been out if rc for a while and I no fuel makes a difference so I want to start my new car off right. What is a good fuel to use and should I use a certian fuel when I break my car in? And once broke in what's a good fuel to use?
Thanks guys
Thanks guys
02-21-2013, 11:47 AM
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RE: Fuel??
You should always break-in with the same fuel you will run, as for what is good, tell us what brands you can get locally, and someone might be able to tell you which is the better. I've only used two fuels ever, RB Concept Race and Tornado, both of which are European fuels primarily, so that won't help much.
02-22-2013, 02:36 PM
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RE: Fuel??
Actually a good quality race fuel is not ideal for breakin in the engines.......Race fuels use high grade lubricants that protect so well they do not allow the proper metal to metal wear needed to lap all the moving parts together..... Which in turn drastically extends the breakin process and puts unnecessary wear and tear on the internals, and sometimes ends up with a poor piston/sleeve seal..... I recommend using a cheap fuel like HPI for breakin, then switching to a quality fuel when its time to runt he engine.........
02-22-2013, 03:47 PM
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RE: Fuel??
You're saying that fuel that does an excellent job protecting your engine from wear causes undue wear? That doesn't really make much sense. Plus I never had to do extra break in on any of the decent variety of engines I've broken in from the very very cheap to the very very expensive, because I used race fuel.
02-22-2013, 04:57 PM
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RE: Fuel??
There is race fuels and there is race fuels, lots of crappy fuels on the market with flashy stickers and websites...
9 times out of 10, go with the fuel the engine-modders recommend, they see a lot more and try a lot more then most others.
Supertib is correct, a to high-grade fuel will prolong the break-in and put unnecessary load on conrod etc.
Plus that it will give a "false" break-in, meaning the surface of the piston has more or less been deformed to match instead of lapped to match.
9 times out of 10, go with the fuel the engine-modders recommend, they see a lot more and try a lot more then most others.
Supertib is correct, a to high-grade fuel will prolong the break-in and put unnecessary load on conrod etc.
Plus that it will give a "false" break-in, meaning the surface of the piston has more or less been deformed to match instead of lapped to match.
02-22-2013, 05:06 PM
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RE: Fuel??
How are you guys quantifying this? Are you saying that engines have shorter lives if broken in with race fuel? Or don't perform as well?
02-22-2013, 06:21 PM
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RE: Fuel??
First of all, there are race fuels that rely in old technology when it comes to oils and there are new modern type oils that some brands use.
Second, there´s no difference in these engines compared to how larger engines were manufactured +10-years ago. They needed a break-in on regular mineral oil before switching to synthetics.
Using a high quality synthetic oil when doing break-in will interfere with the "mating" of the parts. All of the parts have a little extra material that needs to be lapped away, together with the other parts that they are in contact with.
I personally run a high castor fuel during break-in, that oil has a high film strength, but are less slippery then high end synthetics. It keeps the lapping under control, without interfering.
Second, there´s no difference in these engines compared to how larger engines were manufactured +10-years ago. They needed a break-in on regular mineral oil before switching to synthetics.
Using a high quality synthetic oil when doing break-in will interfere with the "mating" of the parts. All of the parts have a little extra material that needs to be lapped away, together with the other parts that they are in contact with.
I personally run a high castor fuel during break-in, that oil has a high film strength, but are less slippery then high end synthetics. It keeps the lapping under control, without interfering.
02-23-2013, 03:31 AM
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RE: Fuel??
Hm, ok, I'll take you guys word for it, though I still don't understand how that affects the only two characteristics that matter to a nitro engine, longevity and performance. I'm still going to advise regular people (as opposed to serious racers) to break in with the same fuel they will run, as I don't think that it makes enough difference which fuel is used to break-in (from personal experience with a wide variety of engines and displacements) to be worth the cost and hassle to someone who will only be buying one engine every 3 years or so. Those that would benefit from running an engine so perfectly broken-in, probably don't need to be told this. I certainly never heard it in a long-ish on road nitro racing career.
Edit: oh, wait a minute...is this a recent development in fuels? If so that would explain it, its a good 5 years since I last broke in a nitro engine. If I'm simply out of date, I can accept that.
Edit: oh, wait a minute...is this a recent development in fuels? If so that would explain it, its a good 5 years since I last broke in a nitro engine. If I'm simply out of date, I can accept that.
02-23-2013, 07:01 AM
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RE: Fuel??
The main thing to look for is a fuel with enough oil and lots of castor oil, for break-in.
As the OP can get Byron, I would recommend their Race fuel with 11% oil, works fine for both break-in and running.
As the OP can get Byron, I would recommend their Race fuel with 11% oil, works fine for both break-in and running.
02-23-2013, 12:34 PM
#14
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RE: Fuel??
ORIGINAL: Foxy
Hm, ok, I'll take you guys word for it, though I still don't understand how that affects the only two characteristics that matter to a nitro engine, longevity and performance. I'm still going to advise regular people (as opposed to serious racers) to break in with the same fuel they will run, as I don't think that it makes enough difference which fuel is used to break-in (from personal experience with a wide variety of engines and displacements) to be worth the cost and hassle to someone who will only be buying one engine every 3 years or so. Those that would benefit from running an engine so perfectly broken-in, probably don't need to be told this. I certainly never heard it in a long-ish on road nitro racing career.
Edit: oh, wait a minute...is this a recent development in fuels? If so that would explain it, its a good 5 years since I last broke in a nitro engine. If I'm simply out of date, I can accept that.
Hm, ok, I'll take you guys word for it, though I still don't understand how that affects the only two characteristics that matter to a nitro engine, longevity and performance. I'm still going to advise regular people (as opposed to serious racers) to break in with the same fuel they will run, as I don't think that it makes enough difference which fuel is used to break-in (from personal experience with a wide variety of engines and displacements) to be worth the cost and hassle to someone who will only be buying one engine every 3 years or so. Those that would benefit from running an engine so perfectly broken-in, probably don't need to be told this. I certainly never heard it in a long-ish on road nitro racing career.
Edit: oh, wait a minute...is this a recent development in fuels? If so that would explain it, its a good 5 years since I last broke in a nitro engine. If I'm simply out of date, I can accept that.
In any engine it is unwise to use synthetic oil to break it in...as synthetics tend to protect to well and not allow adequate metal to metal friction to allow the moving metal part to lap together.....What this can do is put unwanted strain on the connecting rod and bearings, as well as over harden the piston material which can make it brittle ......For an ideal breakin we want a very slight abrasive quality that will cut the piston into the sleeve...Synthetics will not allow this to happen.......... This is universal with all engines............. Over the years I have found HPI purple to offer the best breakin of all the fuels.....Currently we are working on our own breakin fuel that will give the results we are after.......
