Just unboxed MT4-G3 - Oil leak?!!? Pics inside
01-10-2014, 11:54 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Florence,
AL
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just unboxed MT4-G3 - Oil leak?!!? Pics inside
Hey guys -
New to the forum but I've been in rc since the launch of the e-maxx. That being said, three children later I thought I'd get back into the hobby and ordered an MT3-G3.
Just had it delivered and when I removed it from the packaging, I noticed oil on the bottom of the chassis - almost as if it were coming from above the removable guard. I looked under the center diff and can't really see a leak, though the spur has a little oil in the teeth. Has anyone else experienced this from TT with their MT4-G3? Is it safe to RTR? Is this a warranty issue or standard fare?
I've included pics though I'm not sure if it'll help identify the leak.
And before we run it, what are the exact places we need to thread lock, as I've heard that is always top of the list with this truggy.
Thanks in advance for the help!
-P
New to the forum but I've been in rc since the launch of the e-maxx. That being said, three children later I thought I'd get back into the hobby and ordered an MT3-G3.
Just had it delivered and when I removed it from the packaging, I noticed oil on the bottom of the chassis - almost as if it were coming from above the removable guard. I looked under the center diff and can't really see a leak, though the spur has a little oil in the teeth. Has anyone else experienced this from TT with their MT4-G3? Is it safe to RTR? Is this a warranty issue or standard fare?
I've included pics though I'm not sure if it'll help identify the leak.
And before we run it, what are the exact places we need to thread lock, as I've heard that is always top of the list with this truggy.
Thanks in advance for the help!
-P
01-10-2014, 12:42 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Kingston UK, but living in Athens, GREECE
Posts: 18,082
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Completely normal. Someone was careless when fitting the diff gasket/seal at the factory, it's definitely coming from the center differential. Funny thing is you would have taken that oil out anyway. 
When you refill it, I suggest 50k if you like wheelies, 100k if you want easy backflips. 20k if you like to mostly keep the front wheels on the ground. While you're at it, put a nice 10k in the front diff and 5k in the rear. If you plan to do extreme jumps, consider bracing the rear of the chassis. Apart from that and the fact you can expect the servo to fail sooner rather than later (again staple fare for RTRs, replace with quality), you're good to go. It's a great truck, enjoy.
When you refill it, I suggest 50k if you like wheelies, 100k if you want easy backflips. 20k if you like to mostly keep the front wheels on the ground. While you're at it, put a nice 10k in the front diff and 5k in the rear. If you plan to do extreme jumps, consider bracing the rear of the chassis. Apart from that and the fact you can expect the servo to fail sooner rather than later (again staple fare for RTRs, replace with quality), you're good to go. It's a great truck, enjoy.
01-10-2014, 06:51 PM
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Florence,
AL
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Completely normal. Someone was careless when fitting the diff gasket/seal at the factory, it's definitely coming from the center differential. Funny thing is you would have taken that oil out anyway. When you refill it, I suggest 50k if you like wheelies, 100k if you want easy backflips. 20k if you like to mostly keep the front wheels on the ground. While you're at it, put a nice 10k in the front diff and 5k in the rear. If you plan to do extreme jumps, consider bracing the rear of the chassis. Apart from that and the fact you can expect the servo to fail sooner rather than later (again staple fare for RTRs, replace with quality), you're good to go. It's a great truck, enjoy.
When you refill it, I suggest 50k if you like wheelies, 100k if you want easy backflips. 20k if you like to mostly keep the front wheels on the ground. While you're at it, put a nice 10k in the front diff and 5k in the rear. If you plan to do extreme jumps, consider bracing the rear of the chassis. Apart from that and the fact you can expect the servo to fail sooner rather than later (again staple fare for RTRs, replace with quality), you're good to go. It's a great truck, enjoy. Which servo gets the most props around here for the MT4?
01-11-2014, 02:23 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Kingston UK, but living in Athens, GREECE
Posts: 18,082
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
That depends entirely on how much you want to spend. Personally, I wouldn't spend less than 80 bucks on a servo for a MT, and if it was for me to keep for myself, even more. A really good servo can make an average car great and a great car incredible. The MINIMUM specs you want for the MT4 are 200oz-in of torque (15kg-cm), and as fast as you can afford.
My budget recommendation would be this one... http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Digital-Servo - This is a tall servo compared to standard (this is how they can make so much torque for such a good price), so you may need to add a spacer underneath the screws.
If you want something better, I'd go for... http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ium-Gear-Servo
For that second one, I STRONGLY recommend using at minimum a 'glitch buster' capacitor on the receiver, and in the best case, a cheap 6v BEC, such as this one... http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Adjustable-BEC - it is a very juicy servo. So much so that some ESC internal BECs cannot handle it.
Although, as you probably know, speed controls and receivers have built-in BECs, they are very weak (space problems), and that particular Savox servo will pull a lot of juice, causing brownouts in the ESC and potentially loss of control. This is better or worse with different ESCs, but you gain so much from using a BEC anyway, its hard to justify running without one in any car. First of all it takes servo duty strains off the ESC, reducing heat and increasing efficiency, secondly it ensures perfectly smooth exactly 6v to the servo (some internal BECs put out low or unusual voltages, meaning you don't get full performance from the servo), but more than anything else, it provides the servo with enough amps to work at peak efficiency. For a big car like the MT4, its a worthy investment at only 10 bucks more than the glitch buster capacitor.
My budget recommendation would be this one... http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Digital-Servo - This is a tall servo compared to standard (this is how they can make so much torque for such a good price), so you may need to add a spacer underneath the screws.
If you want something better, I'd go for... http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ium-Gear-Servo
For that second one, I STRONGLY recommend using at minimum a 'glitch buster' capacitor on the receiver, and in the best case, a cheap 6v BEC, such as this one... http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Adjustable-BEC - it is a very juicy servo. So much so that some ESC internal BECs cannot handle it.
Although, as you probably know, speed controls and receivers have built-in BECs, they are very weak (space problems), and that particular Savox servo will pull a lot of juice, causing brownouts in the ESC and potentially loss of control. This is better or worse with different ESCs, but you gain so much from using a BEC anyway, its hard to justify running without one in any car. First of all it takes servo duty strains off the ESC, reducing heat and increasing efficiency, secondly it ensures perfectly smooth exactly 6v to the servo (some internal BECs put out low or unusual voltages, meaning you don't get full performance from the servo), but more than anything else, it provides the servo with enough amps to work at peak efficiency. For a big car like the MT4, its a worthy investment at only 10 bucks more than the glitch buster capacitor.
Last edited by Foxy; 01-11-2014 at 02:26 AM.
