wheel slop in all wheels
#1
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wheel slop in all wheels
Hi there
I have a hobao sste which I've had for about six months and in the month or so I seem to have a lot of wheel wobble. It a side to side motion mainly with a little in and out movement.
* I have changed out the bearings on all wheels with no luck
* I have added shims between the wheel hub and the hex which eliminated the in and out motion in all wheels. The hex does not move that much with no wheel on it about 1mm or so but when wheel, is on and tighten movement is more than 10mm plus.
* hex in wheel seems fine no cracks or damage to the wheel. Wheels are unbalanced but I am not a racer so would that matter.
* I have added shims between the screw at the top of the c hubs at the front but still got movement
Will I need to change front hubs, back hub carriage plus rod ends, if so would I be better off getting upgraded parts. Is there anything else I can do any solutions or ideas would be much helpful.
Regard filly
I have a hobao sste which I've had for about six months and in the month or so I seem to have a lot of wheel wobble. It a side to side motion mainly with a little in and out movement.
* I have changed out the bearings on all wheels with no luck
* I have added shims between the wheel hub and the hex which eliminated the in and out motion in all wheels. The hex does not move that much with no wheel on it about 1mm or so but when wheel, is on and tighten movement is more than 10mm plus.
* hex in wheel seems fine no cracks or damage to the wheel. Wheels are unbalanced but I am not a racer so would that matter.
* I have added shims between the screw at the top of the c hubs at the front but still got movement
Will I need to change front hubs, back hub carriage plus rod ends, if so would I be better off getting upgraded parts. Is there anything else I can do any solutions or ideas would be much helpful.
Regard filly
#2
I've chased the slop issue for years when I used to be heavily into racing. Trying to keep my ride consistent from week to week; shim after shim. This shimming seemed to alleviate most of the slop, but wear and tear will catch up with you eventually. What you described, seems to be a general consensus of my thoughts...the front end always gets the abuse from everyday running, and slop always develops faster here.
The caster blocks; steering blocks, and the pins/screws/bushings that allow movement...they all wear out and holes get elongated. Sounds like some parts are in need of replacement. Ball cups are another culprit of slop. I'm guilty; I neglect them along with using ball studs 'til breakage occurs. I have wasted (I don't want to even think about it) so much $$$ replacing parts when they still had plenty of life left in them. This was all to have a ride that was as close as possible to feeling new again. Believe it or not, all of my new FT kits have been built with signs of slop . It may not be much, but it's enough to get a head shake in disgust. I got out of racing awhile back, and my excessive compulsive disorder subsided. Learning to live with slop is common place nowadays for me.
I had two RCs that I would run pretty hard everyday. It seemed like parts were getting worn down faster than normal. After getting a couple more vehicles to run, the time that each RC got used dropped dramatically. My parts orders are smaller now due to the fact that I don't run one or two RCs exclusively day in day out anymore. Maybe having additional RC vehicles to run/bash/race would solve some of the slop problems .
The caster blocks; steering blocks, and the pins/screws/bushings that allow movement...they all wear out and holes get elongated. Sounds like some parts are in need of replacement. Ball cups are another culprit of slop. I'm guilty; I neglect them along with using ball studs 'til breakage occurs. I have wasted (I don't want to even think about it) so much $$$ replacing parts when they still had plenty of life left in them. This was all to have a ride that was as close as possible to feeling new again. Believe it or not, all of my new FT kits have been built with signs of slop . It may not be much, but it's enough to get a head shake in disgust. I got out of racing awhile back, and my excessive compulsive disorder subsided. Learning to live with slop is common place nowadays for me.
I had two RCs that I would run pretty hard everyday. It seemed like parts were getting worn down faster than normal. After getting a couple more vehicles to run, the time that each RC got used dropped dramatically. My parts orders are smaller now due to the fact that I don't run one or two RCs exclusively day in day out anymore. Maybe having additional RC vehicles to run/bash/race would solve some of the slop problems .
Last edited by RustyUs; 01-01-2016 at 05:33 PM.
#3
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Thanks rustyus
I do have a 1/10 hyper tt that I use now and again but since I have had the 1/8 scale its hard to put it down. I am on a budget so have lots of rc is not an option. But thanks anyway for the info may have to look at metal part like the rod ends, caster blocks, steering blocks, to slow down wear and tear.
I do have a 1/10 hyper tt that I use now and again but since I have had the 1/8 scale its hard to put it down. I am on a budget so have lots of rc is not an option. But thanks anyway for the info may have to look at metal part like the rod ends, caster blocks, steering blocks, to slow down wear and tear.
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Hi there
I have a hobao sste which I've had for about six months and in the month or so I seem to have a lot of wheel wobble. It a side to side motion mainly with a little in and out movement.
* I have changed out the bearings on all wheels with no luck
* I have added shims between the wheel hub and the hex which eliminated the in and out motion in all wheels. The hex does not move that much with no wheel on it about 1mm or so but when wheel, is on and tighten movement is more than 10mm plus.
* hex in wheel seems fine no cracks or damage to the wheel. Wheels are unbalanced but I am not a racer so would that matter.
* I have added shims between the screw at the top of the c hubs at the front but still got movement
Will I need to change front hubs, back hub carriage plus rod ends, if so would I be better off getting upgraded parts. Is there anything else I can do any solutions or ideas would be much helpful.
Regard filly
I have a hobao sste which I've had for about six months and in the month or so I seem to have a lot of wheel wobble. It a side to side motion mainly with a little in and out movement.
* I have changed out the bearings on all wheels with no luck
* I have added shims between the wheel hub and the hex which eliminated the in and out motion in all wheels. The hex does not move that much with no wheel on it about 1mm or so but when wheel, is on and tighten movement is more than 10mm plus.
* hex in wheel seems fine no cracks or damage to the wheel. Wheels are unbalanced but I am not a racer so would that matter.
* I have added shims between the screw at the top of the c hubs at the front but still got movement
Will I need to change front hubs, back hub carriage plus rod ends, if so would I be better off getting upgraded parts. Is there anything else I can do any solutions or ideas would be much helpful.
Regard filly
#5
My Feedback: (1)
I have a HoBao Hyper TT and the Hyper SCT. It's amazing to me that a plastic ball cup can wear down a metal ball stud, but that's what happens. And the long screws that act as rear hub pivots will wear too, allowing more movement, along with the pivot balls they pass thru. Yep, gotta replace that stuff once in a while. Even still, you can still have some slop. Love my hyper TT tho!!
#6
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I've chased the slop issue for years when I used to be heavily into racing. Trying to keep my ride consistent from week to week; shim after shim. This shimming seemed to alleviate most of the slop, but wear and tear will catch up with you eventually. What you described, seems to be a general consensus of my thoughts...the front end always gets the abuse from everyday running, and slop always develops faster here.
The caster blocks; steering blocks, and the pins/screws/bushings that allow movement...they all wear out and holes get elongated. Sounds like some parts are in need of replacement. Ball cups are another culprit of slop. I'm guilty; I neglect them along with using ball studs 'til breakage occurs. I have wasted (I don't want to even think about it) so much $$$ replacing parts when they still had plenty of life left in them. This was all to have a ride that was as close as possible to feeling new again. Believe it or not, all of my new FT kits have been built with signs of slop . It may not be much, but it's enough to get a head shake in disgust. I got out of racing awhile back, and my excessive compulsive disorder subsided. Learning to live with slop is common place nowadays for me.
I had two RCs that I would run pretty hard everyday. It seemed like parts were getting worn down faster than normal. After getting a couple more vehicles to run, the time that each RC got used dropped dramatically. My parts orders are smaller now due to the fact that I don't run one or two RCs exclusively day in day out anymore. Maybe having additional RC vehicles to run/bash/race would solve some of the slop problems .
The caster blocks; steering blocks, and the pins/screws/bushings that allow movement...they all wear out and holes get elongated. Sounds like some parts are in need of replacement. Ball cups are another culprit of slop. I'm guilty; I neglect them along with using ball studs 'til breakage occurs. I have wasted (I don't want to even think about it) so much $$$ replacing parts when they still had plenty of life left in them. This was all to have a ride that was as close as possible to feeling new again. Believe it or not, all of my new FT kits have been built with signs of slop . It may not be much, but it's enough to get a head shake in disgust. I got out of racing awhile back, and my excessive compulsive disorder subsided. Learning to live with slop is common place nowadays for me.
I had two RCs that I would run pretty hard everyday. It seemed like parts were getting worn down faster than normal. After getting a couple more vehicles to run, the time that each RC got used dropped dramatically. My parts orders are smaller now due to the fact that I don't run one or two RCs exclusively day in day out anymore. Maybe having additional RC vehicles to run/bash/race would solve some of the slop problems .
The first step to this problem is admitting that you have a problem, lmao 🤣 😂 😆 I'm actually reading this thread because I have alot of front end wheel wobble in my gatekeeper, which wouldn't be that big a deal for crawling but I've kinda started playing with it to make it go faster and be able to jump and bash it . I put an armma mega 12t motor in it and run it on 3s with top geared pinion and spur gear. It's fast now but I can't find out how fast because I can't keep it straight while getting it to full throttle. Another issue that came up was its balance in turning, the front tire would lift and the truck would be on its roof. But looking at how other bashing amd racing type vehicles are set up with their shocks gave me the idea to move the tops of my shock up and inward so they are now on an opposing angle and it's way better that way. So now it's just figuring out that front end . I was thinking of doubling up my shocks up front but keeping one set normal and the other set like the ones in the rear . Any thoughts ? BTW I'm a backyard mechanic/tinker I like making my own stuff as much as possible so any comments about how I should just go and buy a basher or whatever can just stay to themselves. The best part if this hobby to me, is not spending a boatload of money on all the new gadgets and upgrades but to try to fabricate my own solutions to the problems . This keeps me busy, keeps me learning new things and save me all that money that I don't have anyhow lol. And it's so satisfying when you've built something that works and folks are like what upgrades did you buy??? I made them !! Lol
#7
A little slop here, a little slop there, it all adds up to a lot of slop at the wheel end. It's just the nature of the beast. Hard to keep it tight for long. You might be able to see where most of it is coming from by wiggling things around and start there but it's a never ending process.