chedster

What diff fluid you runnin you could go thicker which would help

ericem

make sure you glow plug is glowing nice and bright. I am trying to determine whether you would need to make the engine more rich or lean. hmm... I think more lean. I would try pre heating it first though with a hair dryer or better yet a heat gun. Like I said make sure your glow ignitor is fine. Also give it some throttle. It is a really difficult task with a pullstart motor though.

@madmaxx most engines don't need extra shims. Only if it has predetonation issues. Should still start though.

@revo I think the upper a-arm was made to have play for a reason. Does your truck have the 1/2 offset wheels? Like chedster said. I run 30K diff fluid in my center diff and have 0 ballooning issues.

ItchyBum

I just changed my centre diff to mugen 30,000 so i'll see how that goes and i'll let you know. Im running a more powerful engine than you but so it might be a bit different but if anything yours should balloon less

JChrisjohn

I run stock diffs and I ran a 3/16 fuel line behind the front a arms, took out all the play but over steers bad

ericem

Ya I think there was a reason for having that play there though like I said. I would put it back to the way it was. All ST-1's have play there.

So your running stock diffs so I assume you never took it apart and put oil in them. You might want to pick up some thicker diff fluid.

chedster

Ya for sure take the tubing out, just use the caster shims they gave you on the truck. Play around with those. You still want play though or your steering will handle like crap.

ericem

Anyone try out the TT aluminum shoes? I want to see if it makes the truck more responsive. I want it to jump off the line better. I was thinking 1.1mm tt springs. I wonder if the 1.0's would be better though because I don't know how strong the 1.1 springs are. It takes off good but if you notice in my video's doesn't have good "hit". When I start racing I am sure it will be a big issue. The TT aluminum shoes are only $5 more then the carbon ones so I figure I might as well try them out.

chedster

Try them out I heard they are decent, Im using the dynamite alum shoes with 1.0 springs. Works pretty good but that was with the axial. May run 1.1s when I get the SW V2

ericem

See that's the thing though dynamite shoes only cost $16!! Then I need a different clutch nut though or I need to dremel a notch in my flywheel nut. I don't know I think I am going to try TT stuff. I feel alot more confident with TT shoes.

chedster

Ya true but the clutch nut is like $5 so it breaks about even with the tt shoes. I would just get the TT shoes though.

ericem

Ya I will thanks. Can't wait till my other wheels and body come. I am also getting a starter box the small ofna one. yes it's evil jombo I know. XD I also plan on running the bumpstart backplate instead and a Losi HT pipe. Alot with those clutch shoes I figure it should perform pretty good. I hope atleast lol. All I figure I have to do at the track is tune the suspension.

ericem

You know what did some reading. I better just stick to what has always worked and lasted longest. The carbon shoes never showed wear or glazed like aluminum shoes would. They also damage the clutch bell. I hate high maintenance. I am just going to try thicker 1.1mm tt springs and see if that helps. I also came across these.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/16340

For that price they are worth a shot hopefully the threads are the same on the stock wheel hexes. I will find out though.

ericem

Decided to also get the wheel nuts and pins for only $6 better then getting all the stuff and realizing it won't fit.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/7717

chedster

watch the 1.1 springs with the carbon shoes, since they will engage later in the rpms you could also wear them out way quick. I think im gonna use some .9 springs on my alum shoes, more grab then carbon shoes but still wont wear to quick with the .9 springs. What wheels you get? Oh and Im running the compact ofna box and it is working pretty good with some stick packs.

ericem

Ya eh. So maybe I should try the stick packs. Does it looks like a gel cell could fit though? Ya your right about the 1.1mm springs. You know what ill just stick with 1.0 lol. Once I get my losi HT pipe it should be alot better off the line.

chedster

You know I was wondering if a gel cell would fit. It looks like there is room though. The stick packs have more power though they just dont last as long.

ericem

Ya but I think the gel cell has better cranking power so there isn't as much voltage drop under load.

chedster

you are sending more volts at the same amps through stick packs so actually you have better cranking power with them. Gel cell just last much longer. Still I use to 3000mah sticks and they last me all day.

ericem

True. So you think the 7.2a gel cell would fit or the smaller one?

chedster

I measured and this one will fit so im sure any one will fit like the racer edge one on amain
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXL370&P=ML

ericem

Perfect I have the same size gel cell! Thanks! Id hate to have to buy some stick packs when I could just use my gel cell.

chedster

You will just have to make some kind of device to secure that battery, but that's half the fun of it!

ericem

lol, cant wait XD Ill just make a bracket by cutting out a piece of stainless steel sheet.

ItchyBum

Hey ericem i run the TTR alloy shoes with the TTR 1.1mm springs and i havent had a single problem. They grip the clutchbell way better than the carbon shoes and they dont slip either. You wont notice too much of a difference with the 1.1mm springs compared to the standad 1.0mm ones, just a few more revs to take off and a little bit of lag around corners but if you keep it on power you can drive them pretty good

ericem

Oh really? Do you notice any significant wear or they seem to last forever? I always inspect my shoes just by looking threw the vents on the clutch bell. Maybe I should try the TTR alum shoes after all then.