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  1. #726

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    RE: Tamiya Nitrage 5.2, The Offical Thread

    Ive had my nitrage for a month or so now and haven't had any issues with it cutting out like that but that will do it if the flywheel hits the ground. I had a revo once that would do that on a big jump every time and it ended up being the slipper clutch being too tight. With this nitrage i increased the stock shock oil weight to 70 for bashing, adjusted the shock locations to the furthest in,and i also adjusted the slipper per the instructions before i ran it. The stripped gear problems as i have read where early on because of the slipper being too tight. That would also cause it to cut out on landing if it doesn't slip. I loosed mine out and then adjusted it like the manual says and the gears in the tranny still look like new. I had the whole thing torn down doing the diff oils a week or so ago. I also changed the 30k diff oil in the front and rear to 10k center and 5 k rear. This helped keep it front spinning and balooning the tires so badly. I would cut the hole if you are having heat issues and it also lets you refuel w/out taking the body off. I always use nihms despite what they say and have never had any problems. I think thats because of the full charge voltage being so high. I have really been beating the crap out of mine and i am with you- it is the snizzaow!

  2. #727
    Atomika's Avatar
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    RE: Tamiya Nitrage 5.2, The Offical Thread

    Awesome, good stuff to know. I'd missed that part in the manual. K so when tightened all the way down your supposed to back it off 1/8 of a turn?
    Jealousy is the tribute mediocrity pays to genius

  3. #728

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    RE: Tamiya Nitrage 5.2, The Offical Thread


    Yep. That's right. Try doing the shocks too if you can.

  4. #729

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    RE: Tamiya Nitrage 5.2, The Offical Thread

    One thing I forgot about- there are screws on both sides of the lower rear arms that limit the travel of the suspension. I backed mine out to where they were barely hitting the chasis and gained about a half inch of height in the rear. That may help if you turn the springs down tighter also.

  5. #730
    Atomika's Avatar
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    RE: Tamiya Nitrage 5.2, The Offical Thread

    Cool got the slipper & shocks all done. Do you have the stabilizer bars on yours? does it make a significant difference to have them? I planned on getting the front brake set soon and wondered if i should order the bars as well.
    Jealousy is the tribute mediocrity pays to genius

  6. #731
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    RE: Tamiya Nitrage 5.2, The Offical Thread

    i see that theres nitrage for sale for 229 shipped! where do u guys buy your parts?can you do a 17mm conversion on the hubs>?
    2 BAJA 5T ,1 BAJA 5B,NUTECH MMT,2 SAVAGES ,MGT,RC8BE

  7. #732

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    RE: Tamiya Nitrage 5.2, The Offical Thread

    I don't have the swaybars on mine but i know they help if you are going to be racing it. I really don't want less roll for bashing so it's not on the list for mine. The 17mm conversion is easy with a set of hub adapters from proline or one of those guys. If it were me i'd just go up to 23mm and that way you can use the 40 series on it. That will be the next change i make on mine. I am thinking about a set of moabs or something similar. I have been running a set of hpi's off of my savage and they rock. I am about to put the stock ones up for sale simply because i will never run it on a track. They are great tires though. I do know the tmaxx rims and tires do not make a good fit because of the offset. I bolted those up and the truck lost about an inch of width.

  8. #733

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    RE: Tamiya Nitrage 5.2, The Offical Thread

    what's the rubber plug on the nitrage gearbox for?
    mychal

  9. #734
    Atomika's Avatar
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    RE: Tamiya Nitrage 5.2, The Offical Thread

    Adjusting your slipper clutch.
    Jealousy is the tribute mediocrity pays to genius

  10. #735

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    RE: Tamiya Nitrage 5.2, The Offical Thread

    that's the big one am speaking about the other
    mychal

  11. #736
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    RE: Tamiya Nitrage 5.2, The Offical Thread

    adjusting the two speed (if one's in)
    I am the driver of my car,
    of course the servos help

  12. #737
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    RE: Tamiya Nitrage 5.2, The Offical Thread


    ORIGINAL: bclong211

    I don't have the swaybars on mine but i know they help if you are going to be racing it. I really don't want less roll for bashing so it's not on the list for mine. The 17mm conversion is easy with a set of hub adapters from proline or one of those guys. If it were me i'd just go up to 23mm and that way you can use the 40 series on it. That will be the next change i make on mine. I am thinking about a set of moabs or something similar. I have been running a set of hpi's off of my savage and they rock. I am about to put the stock ones up for sale simply because i will never run it on a track. They are great tires though. I do know the tmaxx rims and tires do not make a good fit because of the offset. I bolted those up and the truck lost about an inch of width.
    You can't use the proline 23mm adapters. The ones with pins sliding into the axle are made for 6mm axles. The 8mm axles uses a buggy/truggy style grub screw setup and is not compatible with nitrage.
    There is NO best anything in RC. No one CARES about what is the fastest. Asking same question a million times WON\'\'T help.

  13. #738
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    RE: Tamiya Nitrage 5.2, The Offical Thread


    ORIGINAL: Atomika

    New Nitrage owner here. Had this thing for 4 days now. Took it out to the track twice. This thing is the shiznittle bam snip snap sack! Starts up great and is super snappy. The only problem I've been running into is occasionally I will land hard and it kills it. Is this a tuning issue? how do I fix it? Guy at the track said he thought I was bottoming out and catching the flywheel on the ground.

    A few other questions:

    I had seen some other threads on other sites pertaining to weak spur gears. Is this some thing that only happened with the early models or is it still an issue?

    Its says not to use NiMh Batteries in it. WHY?

    Is it advisable to cut the hole in the windshield?

    and finally (for now) is it worth while to get the stabilizer hop-up?
    Nimh rechargeable AAs are 1.2V per cell. Too low for the 4 cell holder. THat's why car rx packs are 5 cells nimhs.

    As for the spur, use some heavy grease on the pin and put heavier diff fluid in the middle diff. (50kish or higher)

    There is NO best anything in RC. No one CARES about what is the fastest. Asking same question a million times WON\'\'T help.

  14. #739

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    RE: Tamiya Nitrage 5.2, The Offical Thread

    got one of my best deals ever on ebay won the bit two nitrage for 305.00 new and used posted some new picks the clear tricked out and done with love all the upgrade ALL cvd's, ptowers, fb, 2spd tran,rear diff, bless and from a great owner...thank you
    [img]file:///C:/DOCUME~1/Mychal/LOCALS~1/Temp/moz-screenshot.png[/img][img]file:///C:/DOCUME~1/Mychal/LOCALS~1/Temp/moz-screenshot-1.png[/img]
    mychal

  15. #740

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    RE: Tamiya Nitrage 5.2, The Offical Thread

    Well...im new to the board...just got a 2nd hand Nitrage yesterday. Had a little trouble with it at first...it hadnt run since 16 months ago...I changed the plug...put in some new fuel...learned how to tune and turn down the high idle...and it works like a dream.....SOOOOOO fast....no need for a 2 speed IMO. Looking forward to swapping hints/tips. I'll post pics soon as i can...nothing y'all havent seen b4 tho...lol
    Tye

  16. #741

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    RE: Tamiya Nitrage 5.2, The Offical Thread

    I'm going bashing this aft with a friend and his Savage X 4.6...he has a 2 speed tranny...well see how i keep up....were hitting the chool parking lot....SOOOO covered in sand still...should be a drifters paradise!!!!
    Tye

  17. #742

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    RE: Tamiya Nitrage 5.2, The Offical Thread

    Well...we got to bash around for a little while...its still a little snowy and cold around here so tuning seems hard. It seemed that only one of us could run at a time...but when we did get a chance to race...IATEHIM... and he has a 2spd tranny! This thing SCREAMS...i was thinking bout getting the front brake uprgrade...its a little sluggish stopping being so heavy and all!
    Tye

  18. #743
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    RE: Tamiya Nitrage 5.2, The Offical Thread

    I have the 2spd in my Nitrage and its very fast but does require some more maintenance especially to the rear diff and you will lose the center diff.
    I have an extra center gear box so I can just swap it out when I want to go offroad
    Avante2011,Tundra,TT01,Amax,Blackfoot,MB,Hilux Racer,Durga,TA01,02,03,Nitrage5.2,959,E801XT,801X, RC8 Family,and alot more

  19. #744

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    RE: Tamiya Nitrage 5.2, The Offical Thread

    Sweet...when shes tuned out nice...it sounds like it has a two speed transmission...the powerband is CLEARLY audible....it honestly sounds like its shifting....
    I hated the DISH wheels, and cant afford 100.00 for a replacement set of rims...so this is what i came up with...
    I wanted to add...i used an airbrush and some testors metallic airbrush colours...then three coats of automotive clearcoat!!!
    Tye
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  20. #745
    Atomika's Avatar
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    RE: Tamiya Nitrage 5.2, The Offical Thread

    Can anyone tell me whats causing this? I've only had it bout 2-3 months. Been running great till today.
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    Jealousy is the tribute mediocrity pays to genius

  21. #746
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    RE: Tamiya Nitrage 5.2, The Offical Thread


    ORIGINAL: Atomika

    Can anyone tell me whats causing this? I've only had it bout 2-3 months. Been running great till today.
    Those nicks and pits look like major debris. It either swallowed something bad or the engine is self destructing.

  22. #747
    Atomika's Avatar
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    RE: Tamiya Nitrage 5.2, The Offical Thread

    Ok so basically here's what I did to day to some how screw it up. I took it out warmed it up. I was trying to lean it out so that I could get more punch out of it. I took it out across the soccer field and brought it back. It got up to 300 so I richened it back back up. I took it out again and on the way back in it died. had roughly an 1/8 of a tank left in it. I tried to start it again and the plug was bad. I went home and then found the small chunks on the piston head. I took it apart. cleaned it well put it back together and installed a new traxxas plug. I took it back out and started it but it wont stay running and it jus doesn't sound right. What did I do?
    Jealousy is the tribute mediocrity pays to genius

  23. #748

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    RE: Tamiya Nitrage 5.2, The Offical Thread

    Ive heard that MOST fuels use synthetic oils to lubricate...and that their flash point is not much higher than 300 deg....on the other hand...more expensive fuels have at least a blend of castor and synthetic if not all castor oil...which reportedly has a flash point of over 700 deg...

    Its a good possibility that it reached OVER the 300+ mark that you recorded...

    did you run ATALLwithout the air filter...it will suck in dirt, debris and sand thru there for sure...its sucks like a hoover during high RPM

    even just removing and replacing the glow plug OR air cleaner with it dirty can have same dire consequences...dirt falling in the cylinder or carb body...


    I have an air leak in my gas tank lid...i HOPE thats why it wont run past half throttle...it will idle all day if i let it...but i cant get it past half throttle. Fingers crossed...

    Sorry to here about your engine man...it snorts when its running good eh???

  24. #749
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    RE: Tamiya Nitrage 5.2, The Offical Thread

    Nope, I NEVER run without the air filter & I clean it after every run. All the chunks seem to have come from the conrod. So based on this pic I take it I need to replace the con rod. So did I jus over work it and it warped the inside of the conrod?
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    Jealousy is the tribute mediocrity pays to genius

  25. #750
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    RE: Tamiya Nitrage 5.2, The Offical Thread


    ORIGINAL: Atomika

    Nope, I NEVER run without the air filter & I clean it after every run. All the chunks seem to have come from the conrod. So based on this pic I take it I need to replace the con rod. So did I jus over work it and it warped the inside of the conrod?
    What fuel you running? If it's Traxxas, throw it out. You need a fuel with some caster in it. Caster protects better than synthetic in over heating/lean conditions.


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