coolink13

My Feedback: (3)

I think as stated earlier that maybe temp was higher than 300 when you got to it. That was probably enough. It looks to me that you spun a connecting rod bearing. It spun its way off the crank

then into the crankcase. That is what probably caused all the pit marks on the rod. Maybe just bad luck on a faulty part. It sucks though being a new engine. Ebay is good for another engine.

Good luck.

Atomika

Do I really need a new motor? all thats bad on it is the conrod. I pulled everything apart and the only thing that seems to be damaged is the rod.

coolink13

My Feedback: (3)

Well if by your inspection the piston is good and the crank is good. put a new rod in. Put it back together. See what happens. Should be fine then. Keep us informed.

Hawzzy

I had a leak in the gas tank...wouldnt stay running past half throttle...got that fixed...now back to tuning.

Heres a question...what causes it to stay throttled up after i release the throttle...like as if it takes a few seconds to idle down.????
Any thoughts appreciated.
Tye

mychales

the glow plug broke and cause a hole in the cylinder [img]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Mychal/My%20Documents/My%20Pictures/ps1/ps1%20586.jpg[/img]

mychales

what would cause the glow plug to brake and create a hole in the cylinder...

Hawzzy

what part of the plug broke????? Just the coil come off or the threads....how can a plug break???? I'm curious now

mychales

the coils broke a cause a hole in the cylinder head

mychales

a hole in the piston

Hawzzy

Ohhhh...i think i got it...ive heard of them warping, and going a little gray or ash like...a sign of being too lean...ouch.....good luck with repairs...and let us know how it goes eh??????
How long had tht plug been in....was it old...or brand new...maybe too long a plug...or maybe just too lean and burnt out the coil....let us know please. I'm curious too...

Tye

P.S. Ive just found some castor oil to add to my fuel...it will bring my total oil content to between 15-16%....12% synthetics and 3-4% Castor.....It only cost $3-4.00 extra per gallon of fuel, and NOT the crazy $10-15.00 more from the LHS!!! Got it from the pharmacy!!!
My LHS carries fule with only 12% oil...this is the PERFECT way to top it up and add longer life to the engine.

mychales

i dont ever run to lean i have no reason to, but the plug what new, still in its og package i got it from an eBay deal can say how old it was. the size of the hole is about a 1mm in size plus the truggy was running well good speed off the line and then this  but i do have a new engine so i may used that plus the price of the new piston and sleeve is around 78.00 (does any one have a old piston lol ) i love the hobby everyday is something new ...

Atomika

When replacing the con-rod and crank case do I need to go thru the break in procedure again?

mychales

Indeed but the price may make me go electric... 103.00 for a sleeve and piston really 

Hawzzy

That seems a little ridiculous...ive seen the whole motor, from OFNA for 156.00...i think!!!

mychales

my thoughts exactly i may just go with a new motor....

mcavanagh

Hey guys quick question. Looking at my nitrage I want to change the engine. Is the 5.2 mill just a sg shaft engine? If so I could put any .21 Mill in it that I wanted. Just not sure looking at the funky way the motor attatches to the center gearbox. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks

fox2phoenix

Hi Everyone,

I have been avidly reading this thread and it makes me more and more excited to get my Tamiya Nitrage 5.2 RTR. I currently have and am selling my Tamiya Nitro Crusher, so the Nitrage should be alot more thrilling compared to the Crusher's 2.5cc engine.

My Nitrage is on a plane now heading my way and I would just like to know if anyone has any advise I should consider when first using the nitro RC?

My first objective will be to do a well thorough break in of the engine, any advise on which format I should follow? Any guidelines?

Are there any hop up items I should be purchasing before I receive the Nitrage that could save me a drive to the LHS?

I had a two speed transmission in my Nitro Crusher and thus I loved the top speed of the truck, is it worth getting the 2 speed transmission for the Nitrage and any guidelines. ( I Race/bash around with a friend with a Tamiya TNX 5.2R )

Thanks for any help in advance

Nick

Hawzzy

Congrats...i love mine...right now i cant keep it running.....but im chasing an air leak in the fuel tank...and of course...the LHS doesnt have one and they are back ordered...

About the 2 spd tranny...well that depends on how fast you wanna go and if you have the room....the guy who i got mine of of...said that IDEALLY the two speed should be adjusted for if you're on pavement, soft sand, hard pan, wet conditions...it will give you a higher top speed for sure...but he said he was FOREVER adj. it and changing shift points.

When i open mine up on the road/straight...it goes PLENTY fast enough IMHO....my neighbour has an HPI savage 4.6 with a 2 spd...until he got his tuned pie...i BLEWhim outta the water...now were almost even, and mine is completely stock.

As far as hop ups go....the front brake kit is nice...(back ordered right now), some people like to get a faster/stronger steering servo. Ive looked over the tamiya hopups....the shock towers with the 20 some holes for positioning are a little over priced (sorry ALOT) imho....the ofna jp4 pipe which a lot of peopie like is $100 buck Canadian...ouch!! Of course you can upgrade EVERYTHING nearly to aluminum for the $$$$$

I watch a lot of "squirellod" vids on youtube....if you look up his playlists...he has a couple 12-15 part series on how to break in and tune your engine.

tye

fox2phoenix

And what kind of fuel do you guys use?

I have been using Beetlejuice 25% nitro fuel basically because its the only brand available where I live.
I recently found a LHS who stocks SideWinder 20% nitro, so should I change to it or stay on 25% when I get my Nitrage?

Thanks

Hawzzy

I use sidewinder (its the only thing my LHS carries)its 20% nitro 12% oil.......i went to the drug store and got some pure castor oil to top the oil content up to 15-16% Castor oil has twice the flash point of synthetic oils...around 700 degrees....synths. around mid 300's

Im going to bump up to 25% nitro after this gallon is gone....ive heard it can actually help your engine run a little cooler. Well see..if only someone in Canada or N.A. had a fuel tank for it!!!!!!

tye

Atomika

Got the motor fixed and running like a champ. I'm wanting to get a new pipe tho. I was thinking bout a Mutilator pipe. Any other suggestions?

Hawzzy

Dude...good to hear...how much did you have to replace???...it would be good to know for future ref.

Ive heard that the JP4 is the $%#T...BUT its $104. here. The JP3 wasnt a whole lot cheaper either. I dont know how much the mutilator is and i dont know anyone who has one

I still cant get mine running well...im chasing an air leak that starts at the fuel tank. Tamiya Canada has none in stock...and they are Back Ordered...YAY!

Ive got to hunt one down on the net......ive tried EVERYTHING to get the lid to seal again...a rubber gasket...Cable ties around the tank...bla bla!!!

Tye

Atomika

I replaced the con rod ($20) and the crankcase ($37) The con rods easy to do but to do the crankcase you have to put both the old and new CC in the oven and heat em up to bout 300 degrees. I used this guys method ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WhpwsjYoxM0 ) to do it and it worked great. I race my buddy @ the track every week and he's got a Mutilator which has the same engine. Yeah the JP4 is the shiznit but way to spendy for my taste. I found the Mutilator pipe for $32 so I'll prolly go with that. Now I jus need to get some better tires (I Beams) so I can corner better. As for ur gas tank have u taken it out an filled it up full of water to see where exactly its leaking? If there's a crack in the tank itself ur SOL. I had that problem with my Stampede and I had to replace it. Here's one I found on ebay. Its a lil spendy tho

http://cgi.ebay.com/Tamiya-Nitrage-5...ht_1292wt_1141

secretsg

Do not add in more castor. Your modern car engines do not need that much oil. It would just make it run hotter.

Atomika

An update on the gas tank situation. This ones hella cheap.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Tamiya-Fuel-Tank...item588ddc0597