CRT.5 Truggy RTR, frozen pull start...
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Culver City,
CA
Posts: 651

Hi all,
I was on my first tank (idle), the engine gave a small rev then cut out. Now the pull starter is frozen to the engine. I mean totaly stuck there. Not a flooded type thing. Does anyone have a suggestion?
Also, can somone point me to the link where I can get all the manual's etc... for the crt.5? I seem to be missing some stuff an can not seem to find them on Jammin's site.
Many thanks in advance for any help!
PS: The flywheel is frozen as well. I can not move it at all. This is not good is it... ?
I was on my first tank (idle), the engine gave a small rev then cut out. Now the pull starter is frozen to the engine. I mean totaly stuck there. Not a flooded type thing. Does anyone have a suggestion?
Also, can somone point me to the link where I can get all the manual's etc... for the crt.5? I seem to be missing some stuff an can not seem to find them on Jammin's site.
Many thanks in advance for any help!
PS: The flywheel is frozen as well. I can not move it at all. This is not good is it... ?
#2
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Jonesborough, TN
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Have you tried taking the head off and looking at the internals, or looking in the exhaust output to see if the piston and everything is okay?
Sounds like the conrod is dead, or the pullstart's messing up majorly.
Sounds like the conrod is dead, or the pullstart's messing up majorly.
#3
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Greentown,
PA
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is there a rock lodged between the flywheel that you cant see?????if not i think the con.rod is done.......
#4
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thats normal when the engine is new. take a screwdriver and place it between the flywheel and chasis from underneath to turn the flywheel.
#5
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Kenmore,
WA
Posts: 2,529

just take the glow plug out and pull the pull start. if it is still stuck then use the screw driver on the flywheel to try and pry it loose. it should be easy to pull. make sure your not flooding the engine. that is a notorious problem when the pull start locks up. also if its new and cold out use a hair dryer or a heat gun and warm the engine up. it will make the pull much much easier and will start up faster.
#6
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ORIGINAL: fourwheels0
thats normal when the engine is new. take a screwdriver and place it between the flywheel and chasis from underneath to turn the flywheel.
thats normal when the engine is new. take a screwdriver and place it between the flywheel and chasis from underneath to turn the flywheel.
It happens after every tank 3 so far. Can I expect this to happen for ever?
#7
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Darien,
IL
Posts: 909

No, it will only happen during break in, hopefully. Just make sure that the engine is hot enough when breaking it in. I use the spit test. Also, between each tank, when the engine is turned off, turn the flywheel to BDC so that the metal parts wear in well.
#8
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ORIGINAL: chrobar
No, it will only happen during break in, hopefully. Just make sure that the engine is hot enough when breaking it in. I use the spit test. Also, between each tank, when the engine is turned off, turn the flywheel to BDC so that the metal parts wear in well.
No, it will only happen during break in, hopefully. Just make sure that the engine is hot enough when breaking it in. I use the spit test. Also, between each tank, when the engine is turned off, turn the flywheel to BDC so that the metal parts wear in well.
Any breakin suggestions welcome

#9
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Whew, for a second I thought you seized your engine or snapped the connecting rod. Glad to see everything's alright.
#10
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ORIGINAL: Th3pwn3r
Whew, for a second I thought you seized your engine or snapped the connecting rod. Glad to see everything's alright.
Whew, for a second I thought you seized your engine or snapped the connecting rod. Glad to see everything's alright.
ORIGINAL: Th3pwn3r
Whew, for a second I thought you seized your engine or snapped the connecting rod. Glad to see everything's alright.
Whew, for a second I thought you seized your engine or snapped the connecting rod. Glad to see everything's alright.
Thanks, yea I was pretty bummed for a second there. I just wanted this one to go without any problems but who am I kidding? LOL. Once I get this baby going I'm sure I will have plenty of fun and plenty of time fixing it... just hoping the fixing part comes after a good amount of fun first... that is why I got the RTR in the first place! Actually it was for the full size servo and longer chassis but I'm also lazy too. Coulda bought kit and added that myself :P
Many thanks!
#11
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cool glad to hear that's all it was. make sure you loktite the front knuckle screws both upper and lower. they are know to fall out if you don't. you should also make sure you get the engine up to 200 degree's for proper breakin.
#12
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220 is better. if its under 200 its really bad for the motor!
#13
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sorry i meant to say atleast 200 degree's.
#14
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: EDSON, AB, CANADA
Posts: 1

HEY GUYS, I JUST BOUGHT A NEW HELLFIRE RTR. IN THE MIDDLE OF SETTING IT UP I WAS WONDERING IF YOU COULD TELL ME IF MY BRAKES SHOULD SHUT OFF MY ENGINE?
?? THANKS-CHEERS
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