madmax22

Ok guys this question is popping up EVERY where. No offense to any one new to the hobby! But here is a couple ways to break an engine in!

First ill start by my way! ok first tank you can let idle with short blips of the throttle to keep it running. second tank get it on the ROAD (not on grass of dirt) and do 1/4 throttle passes. do the same thing for tank 3 but get a couple 1/2 throttle blips in there. 4th tank do some 1/2 throttle passes with some full throttle blips. 5th tank do 3/4 throttle with 1-2 seconds of WOT (wide open throttle) for the 6th thru 10th tanks you can do some WOT a little but not to much as the engine is still new. Always let the engine cool down before tanks with break in. Also after break in tanks get the engine at BDC (bottom dead center put it BDC every time you stop running)... Make sure with every tank your temps get up to at least 200 F...


Heat cycle: STEP 1: By using aluminum foil, heat tape or header wrap for full-size cars to block off cooling fins on the heat sink, you can somewhat manipulate the engineÂ’s temperature so the engine can reach optimum temperature faster. Of course, thatÂ’s only if itÂ’s not warm enough outside to allow the engine to build heat quickly enough.

STEP 2: While the engine is idling and warming up, leave the glow driver attached to the glow plug. This reduces the chance the engine might flame out early. Avoid revving the engine wide open to warm it up faster: that will actually wear out the piston and sleeve more quickly. You might see some of the guys at the local track doing it but believe me; this does more harm than good. You can give it some short moments of 1/4 throttle to help build engine temp and to keep the engine running while on the starter box.

STEP 3: While the engine cools between break-in runs, always, I mean ALWAYS make sure the piston is bottom dead center (BDC) when the engine is cooling.

STEP 4: After this first 15-minute break- in period, you should then run the engine in three 5-minute intervals. Again, make sure to let your engine cool down sufficiently between runs. Run at no more than half throttle with some short full-throttle burst. Again, make sure the engine gets up to temp and the piston is BDC (bottom dead center) each time when cooling. When the break-in process I described is finished, you will have a total of 30 minutes run time and break-in on the engine.

CONCLUSION!!!: Well, thatÂ’s all there is to it: Your engine is now properly broken-in. As you start tuning for racing, just remember that running rich is better, but the engine must get up to temp. Take your time when breaking-in your engine. DonÂ’t rush the break-in process. If you rush it, you will only be rushing to the hobby shop to buy a new engine. The better you treat your engine during break-in, the better your engine will treat you. REMEMBER BDC after every time you use the engine!!!!

Hope i helped a little!!!!!

please dont hesitate to tell of any other ways or to make correction Thanks!

twomanytoys

You say that during break ins the piston should always be at bottom dead center? Thats right to a point but ANYTIME you shut the engine off you should put the piston at bottom dead center. It dont matter if its durring break in or if it has 3 gallons on it. This will greatly increase the life of the pinch in the sleeve.

madmax22

Thanks twomany!!!

ericem

Agreed!! Probably why all my motors last over 8 gallons.

madmax22

lol i got 14 out of my TRX 2.5

droidswarm

I think I read somewhere that its important to get the temps upto 200 deg (ish) when attempting the heat cycle method, do you agree with that?

DS

hey how do u know the piston is drop dead n the center, also i think this thread was started because of me lol

DS

whay about the old school way of just letting it idle?

SycoCell

My Feedback: (3)

Yes. Whenever you break in your truck, whether it's the traxxas or heat cycle method, you want the temps atleast at 200-210.

Logi3

Yup make sure you get the temp to atleast 215f (IMO) running below 200f the liner is not exanding enough due to a low temp. Use foil like said above to raise the temp rather then using throttle on the first tank.

Anomie

You can also compare notes to the [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5517128/tm.htm]Nitro Guide and FAQ thread[/link] in the [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/forumid_269/p_/tmode_1/smode_1/tt.htm]Car Nitro & Gas Engines[/link] forum.

rebelracer246

i did it your way and i think it is alot better for the preformance of the motoe

madmax22

yea i like my way the best. i like that you get to drive it a little in the first tanks

madmax22

sorry reiko but i think something needs to be here because newbies to the sight might not know where to look.... or people are just to lazy to look a little... you can lock or delete it if you want...

Technex

Hey guys, I've never put my piston to BDC after running and now my liner has no pinch. Although it isn't a ABC engine it's just a O.S different type.

I'm going to do it from now on, but can it regain pinch? If not can anyone recommend me a way to tighten the pinch back up? I've heard of using clips and boiling water?

Thanks.

madmax22

here is a good way to do it!
http://www.groundpoundersrc.com/inde...pic,872.0.html

Anomie

It was just a recommendation.

Technex

Thanks might just give this a go!

I couldn't help but notice this post on page two. "that repinching ABC sleeves works great. ABN sleeves, not so great. "

I think my O.S. 21VG has a ABN sleeve? (Not sure doesn't say in manual). All I know is this engine has no pinch and it sucks at idle (few secs no matter what needle setting/leak proofing you do).

droidswarm

Thanks for the replies about the temps. Ive just started breaking my engine in and have had it idling the first two tanks with foil around the head, but the temps only got to about 130 deg. I guess I need to lean the HSN quite a bit before I continue too much?

DS

HOW DO YOU GET YOU PISTON DROP DEAD IN THE CENTER, AND HOW DO YOU KNOW. CAN SOMEONE HELP?

WizkY

for the first tank, how did u get your temp?? adjust idle needle? ajust another needle? aluminum foil on the head? thank

madmax22

you can lean the HSN and the LSN a little like 1/8 turn each and if that doesnt get you teps up put foil around the head or a sock.

rebelracer246

once you repinch a sleve do you have to brake it in again ?

DS

anyone help me

madmax22

yes you do but you dont have to go as easy on it as when it was new.