ZIROLI 94" P-40 WARHAWK BUILD
01-19-2012, 01:15 PM
#76
RE: ZIROLI 94
Hey Sam,
Good idea to put the elevator servos in the stab like you did. Wish I would have thought of that before I finished the tail feathers because it will probably need the weight back there any way. I'll keep it in mind for the next one.
Good idea to put the elevator servos in the stab like you did. Wish I would have thought of that before I finished the tail feathers because it will probably need the weight back there any way. I'll keep it in mind for the next one.
01-30-2012, 04:11 PM
#78
RE: ZIROLI 94
FG fuse
The seam along the bottom behind the wing was split open from shipping damage so I used some box tape to hold the seam together while I epoxied some HD auto FG cloth to the inside seam.
I cut out the slot for the horizontal stab and sanded the slot until the stab fit. With the 1/4" TE overhand, I had to cut out the fuse area directly behind the stab slot in order to be able to slide the stab onto the fuse.
Wings (cont)
I cut some balsa and epoxied it to the LE of the three wings and, then, sanded them to shape.
The seam along the bottom behind the wing was split open from shipping damage so I used some box tape to hold the seam together while I epoxied some HD auto FG cloth to the inside seam.
I cut out the slot for the horizontal stab and sanded the slot until the stab fit. With the 1/4" TE overhand, I had to cut out the fuse area directly behind the stab slot in order to be able to slide the stab onto the fuse.
Wings (cont)
I cut some balsa and epoxied it to the LE of the three wings and, then, sanded them to shape.
01-31-2012, 04:05 PM
#79
RE: ZIROLI 94
Tail feathers (cont)
I cut away part of the LE of the elevator's balsa and epoxied a balsa block for the counter weight.
The counter weight was sanded and rounded over on the end and the stab counter weight recess was 'boxed in' with some balsa sheet.
4/40 rod with brass tubing connected a robart 3/4" metal ball socket control horn and dubro HD ball link on the servo side (HS-645's).
Some 3/32" thick ply was cut for servo hatches.
The servos were connected to the receiver for testing and 'throw'.
Center wing:
Some hard balsa sheeting epoxied around the wheel well holes, cross grain to the wing sheeting, to stiffen up that area (previously, I stuck my hand in there and cracked it).
.
FG fuse:
For 'tick marks', some pin holes were drilled where the cowl attaches to the fuse so I could locate where to epoxy some spruce along the inside of the fuse for cowl 'hard points'.
I cut away part of the LE of the elevator's balsa and epoxied a balsa block for the counter weight.
The counter weight was sanded and rounded over on the end and the stab counter weight recess was 'boxed in' with some balsa sheet.
4/40 rod with brass tubing connected a robart 3/4" metal ball socket control horn and dubro HD ball link on the servo side (HS-645's).
Some 3/32" thick ply was cut for servo hatches.
The servos were connected to the receiver for testing and 'throw'.
Center wing:
Some hard balsa sheeting epoxied around the wheel well holes, cross grain to the wing sheeting, to stiffen up that area (previously, I stuck my hand in there and cracked it).
.
FG fuse:
For 'tick marks', some pin holes were drilled where the cowl attaches to the fuse so I could locate where to epoxy some spruce along the inside of the fuse for cowl 'hard points'.
02-01-2012, 11:33 AM
#80
RE: ZIROLI 94
Glassing
Prep:
Some Evercoat easysand used to fill in defects, including the seam along the FG fuse.
Glassing:
Ziroli's 1 Oz FG cloth and finishing resin applied to one side of the wings, stab and ailerons.
I lay the cloth on the surface, pour the resin on and use a bondo applicator (and acid brush for the edges). Some 2" square paper towels to soak up any excess resin, especially around the edges.
Can't complain about the weather: mid to upper 50's for several days. Nice when the 10 year (or so) occurrence solar flares are this year, along with the jet stream and el nino.
Prep:
Some Evercoat easysand used to fill in defects, including the seam along the FG fuse.
Glassing:
Ziroli's 1 Oz FG cloth and finishing resin applied to one side of the wings, stab and ailerons.
I lay the cloth on the surface, pour the resin on and use a bondo applicator (and acid brush for the edges). Some 2" square paper towels to soak up any excess resin, especially around the edges.
Can't complain about the weather: mid to upper 50's for several days. Nice when the 10 year (or so) occurrence solar flares are this year, along with the jet stream and el nino.
02-02-2012, 07:47 AM
#83
RE: ZIROLI 94
Thanks, Marty.
===========
Glassing (cont)
The bottom sides were done.
Inside corners and any trimming is cut after the main area is covered with the resin.
I trim the edges, especially on the wing tips, to about an inch so the cloth with stick on the opposite side without having the weight of excess cloth pulling it away from the bottom's surface. An acid brush is usually best to get these overlaps to stick and then wipe away the excess with a 2" square patch of paper towels.
===========
Glassing (cont)
The bottom sides were done.
Inside corners and any trimming is cut after the main area is covered with the resin.
I trim the edges, especially on the wing tips, to about an inch so the cloth with stick on the opposite side without having the weight of excess cloth pulling it away from the bottom's surface. An acid brush is usually best to get these overlaps to stick and then wipe away the excess with a 2" square patch of paper towels.
02-03-2012, 12:04 PM
#85
RE: ZIROLI 94
Elevator fabric covering.
I used antique solartex to cover the elevators.
I first did the sides of the counter weights.
Next was the bottom with about a 1/4" overlap on the edges.
I worked from the center edges, out.
Both sides were covered before I stretched the fabric using the heater iron to make sure no warpage occurred.
Stab:
Some HD auto FG cloth was epoxied along the center.
Primer:
It got up to the mid fifties so I decided to shoot some two part epoxy primer on the parts.
Edges done first and then the main area and then the second coat was 90 degrees to the first coat.
Bottom done first and was dry enough by the time I was ready to flip all the parts over to do the top side.
With a nice calm sunny day, the surface temperature of the parts got into the 80's even though the temp on my shaded 'screened in' porch was 50. Painting on a hot day during the summer in the sun would flash the paint over too quickly.
I used antique solartex to cover the elevators.
I first did the sides of the counter weights.
Next was the bottom with about a 1/4" overlap on the edges.
I worked from the center edges, out.
Both sides were covered before I stretched the fabric using the heater iron to make sure no warpage occurred.
Stab:
Some HD auto FG cloth was epoxied along the center.
Primer:
It got up to the mid fifties so I decided to shoot some two part epoxy primer on the parts.
Edges done first and then the main area and then the second coat was 90 degrees to the first coat.
Bottom done first and was dry enough by the time I was ready to flip all the parts over to do the top side.
With a nice calm sunny day, the surface temperature of the parts got into the 80's even though the temp on my shaded 'screened in' porch was 50. Painting on a hot day during the summer in the sun would flash the paint over too quickly.
02-06-2012, 12:51 PM
#86
RE: ZIROLI 94
Wet sanding
To save an extra step of sanding, I, first, covered any surface defects with easysand and glazing putty, and then just sanded the primer and bondo at the same time.
I then hand wet sanded, using 220 grit and lots of water, all the surfaces until a continuous satin surface was achieved.
pictures will be uploaded when the web site fixes their software problems.
02-07-12: uploads are working again.
To save an extra step of sanding, I, first, covered any surface defects with easysand and glazing putty, and then just sanded the primer and bondo at the same time.
I then hand wet sanded, using 220 grit and lots of water, all the surfaces until a continuous satin surface was achieved.
pictures will be uploaded when the web site fixes their software problems.
02-07-12: uploads are working again.
02-07-2012, 12:42 PM
#87
RE: ZIROLI 94
miscellaneous
Picture uploads are working, again.
Only got a few things done.
Cut the inner wing servo flap hatches and epoxied some hardwood to the wing to secure the hatches.
Measured to insure holes on wing go into FG part of the fuse and, then, drilled four wing mount guide holes for the 1/4X20 bolts that will be used.
Final holes won't be done until the fuse hard points are installed so I can align the wing to the fuse.
Picture uploads are working, again.
Only got a few things done.
Cut the inner wing servo flap hatches and epoxied some hardwood to the wing to secure the hatches.
Measured to insure holes on wing go into FG part of the fuse and, then, drilled four wing mount guide holes for the 1/4X20 bolts that will be used.
Final holes won't be done until the fuse hard points are installed so I can align the wing to the fuse.
02-08-2012, 01:07 PM
#88
RE: ZIROLI 94
Center wing:
Miscellaneous:
Center flap servo hatch covers made from 3/32" thick ply.
My dihedral on the wing and fuse were not the same angle so I needed to cut the center on the fuse to allow a flush fit along the edges. I'll re-epoxy the fuse after I get the fuse ready to accept the wing bolts.
Main gear doors and pods.
The pictured book provides a lot of close up pictures of the warhawk.
I taped the gear pods over the wing and outlined the gear doors (large and small).
I then used a cut off disk to make a cut, ONLY, where the piano hinge will reside.
Additional holes were cut in the piano hinge and then the piano hinge was attached to the pod using #1X1/4" wood screws. I did not cut the other two sides of the doors until after they are epoxied to the wing to keep the proper alignment of the doors to the pod.
I then, epoxied the pods to the wing and used servo screws to temporarily hold the pod sides to the wing. I had large gaps along the bottom LE of the wing and pods that I will fill in with easysand, versus trying to force the pod to the wing.
Easysand was then applied to the edges of the pods and sanded to shape.
Miscellaneous:
Center flap servo hatch covers made from 3/32" thick ply.
My dihedral on the wing and fuse were not the same angle so I needed to cut the center on the fuse to allow a flush fit along the edges. I'll re-epoxy the fuse after I get the fuse ready to accept the wing bolts.
Main gear doors and pods.
The pictured book provides a lot of close up pictures of the warhawk.
I taped the gear pods over the wing and outlined the gear doors (large and small).
I then used a cut off disk to make a cut, ONLY, where the piano hinge will reside.
Additional holes were cut in the piano hinge and then the piano hinge was attached to the pod using #1X1/4" wood screws. I did not cut the other two sides of the doors until after they are epoxied to the wing to keep the proper alignment of the doors to the pod.
I then, epoxied the pods to the wing and used servo screws to temporarily hold the pod sides to the wing. I had large gaps along the bottom LE of the wing and pods that I will fill in with easysand, versus trying to force the pod to the wing.
Easysand was then applied to the edges of the pods and sanded to shape.
02-08-2012, 01:45 PM
#91
RE: ZIROLI 94
Thanks Roger.
MMMMM: I just looked at the doors and an operating mechanism is going to be harder than I was expecting. I'm usually, an 'air cylinder' guy but there's no room for an air cylinder; there's not much room for any mechanism! I'm glad you asked as now I'm going to have to 'sleep on this problem'.
MMMMM: I just looked at the doors and an operating mechanism is going to be harder than I was expecting. I'm usually, an 'air cylinder' guy but there's no room for an air cylinder; there's not much room for any mechanism! I'm glad you asked as now I'm going to have to 'sleep on this problem'.
[8D]
02-10-2012, 01:57 PM
#93
RE: ZIROLI 94
Eureka!...and it only took me all day to figure IT out!
Functioning main gear doors.
After scrounging around ACE, the only thing that I came up with was buying several sizes of springs to take home and 'experiment'.
The first four pictures shows the gear closing on the spring. The fourth picture shows the door closed too far, but that's good as I'll put some stops along the edge to cure that.
The next three pictures shows the opening sequence: The spring is stiff so it 'pops' the door open quickly to the full open position. This is good since picture seven shows how close the wheel comes to touching the door corner (in real time with air, I may have to trim the corner off a small amount).
The next two pictures show the original 5" long spring which is cut down to about 3". One end loop is on the bolt that holds the gear to the wood mount and the other end loop is connected to a control horn.
The last two pictures shows my futile attempts to try a fork to be moved by the oleo and a ball link on the front. Not that these procedures won't work but I failed at it.
Functioning main gear doors.
After scrounging around ACE, the only thing that I came up with was buying several sizes of springs to take home and 'experiment'.
The first four pictures shows the gear closing on the spring. The fourth picture shows the door closed too far, but that's good as I'll put some stops along the edge to cure that.
The next three pictures shows the opening sequence: The spring is stiff so it 'pops' the door open quickly to the full open position. This is good since picture seven shows how close the wheel comes to touching the door corner (in real time with air, I may have to trim the corner off a small amount).
The next two pictures show the original 5" long spring which is cut down to about 3". One end loop is on the bolt that holds the gear to the wood mount and the other end loop is connected to a control horn.
The last two pictures shows my futile attempts to try a fork to be moved by the oleo and a ball link on the front. Not that these procedures won't work but I failed at it.
02-20-2012, 03:15 PM
#94
RE: ZIROLI 94
Miscellaneous
Fuse to wing fit:
I cut the center of the fuse around the wing area, epoxied some HD FG cloth over the cuts and clamped the wing to the fuse to get the proper alignment between the fuse wing fillet and the wing. Some wax paper used to keep the two from bonding to each other.
Small main gear doors.
I used a lighter grade spring than on the main door for the small door. I cut a 4" long spring (also from ACE hardware) down to 2 1/4" long. I screwed the spring to the door side using a #1X3/16" screw. I drilled and tapped a 2/56 hole in the side of the oleo, drilled a hole into the side of a 2/56 brass extension connector and screwed it into the oleo. The spring was secured to the oleo and door with a curved spring angle on the door side seems to help open the door in the DOWN position. Some 1/32" thick ply was epoxied and screwed to the door opening for supporting and aligning the doors in the closed position.
As with the large door, I replaced the wire on the piano hinge which allows the doors to move much more freely. I put a 90 degree bend on the wire, drilled a hole in the FG pod and forced the 90 degree bend into the hole to secure the piano wire.
This small door could easily be just left permanently closed as no one is really going to see it.
Outer wing servo hatches.
I cut out the wings surface for the flap/aileron servo hatches and epoxied some 1/4" square spruce along two sides. Some 3/32" thick ply was cut out for hatches and #1X3/8" button head screws were used to secure the hatches.
Since the aileron servo control mechanism is exposed, slots were cut into the ply hatches.
Aileron hinging:
Now that the glassing is done, I epoxied four dubro heavy duty pin hinges into each aileron.
I 'nuked' the epoxy for several seconds so it would flow easily into the hinge slots using a tapered pop cycle stick. The wing side was done first and then the aileron side. After applying epoxy to each slot and allowing gravity to fill the slot, I buttered the hinges, slid them about a 1/4" from their full depth, wiped off the excess epoxy and then 'drove the hinges home'. Some oil was put around the pins to keep the epoxy from getting into the pins. After the epoxy dries, I can remove the pins and clean up any excess epoxy.
Fuse to wing fit:
I cut the center of the fuse around the wing area, epoxied some HD FG cloth over the cuts and clamped the wing to the fuse to get the proper alignment between the fuse wing fillet and the wing. Some wax paper used to keep the two from bonding to each other.
Small main gear doors.
I used a lighter grade spring than on the main door for the small door. I cut a 4" long spring (also from ACE hardware) down to 2 1/4" long. I screwed the spring to the door side using a #1X3/16" screw. I drilled and tapped a 2/56 hole in the side of the oleo, drilled a hole into the side of a 2/56 brass extension connector and screwed it into the oleo. The spring was secured to the oleo and door with a curved spring angle on the door side seems to help open the door in the DOWN position. Some 1/32" thick ply was epoxied and screwed to the door opening for supporting and aligning the doors in the closed position.
As with the large door, I replaced the wire on the piano hinge which allows the doors to move much more freely. I put a 90 degree bend on the wire, drilled a hole in the FG pod and forced the 90 degree bend into the hole to secure the piano wire.
This small door could easily be just left permanently closed as no one is really going to see it.
Outer wing servo hatches.
I cut out the wings surface for the flap/aileron servo hatches and epoxied some 1/4" square spruce along two sides. Some 3/32" thick ply was cut out for hatches and #1X3/8" button head screws were used to secure the hatches.
Since the aileron servo control mechanism is exposed, slots were cut into the ply hatches.
Aileron hinging:
Now that the glassing is done, I epoxied four dubro heavy duty pin hinges into each aileron.
I 'nuked' the epoxy for several seconds so it would flow easily into the hinge slots using a tapered pop cycle stick. The wing side was done first and then the aileron side. After applying epoxy to each slot and allowing gravity to fill the slot, I buttered the hinges, slid them about a 1/4" from their full depth, wiped off the excess epoxy and then 'drove the hinges home'. Some oil was put around the pins to keep the epoxy from getting into the pins. After the epoxy dries, I can remove the pins and clean up any excess epoxy.
02-21-2012, 01:48 PM
#95
RE: ZIROLI 94
Guns (better part of a day just to make some guns!)
I used a 5/8" diameter hardwood dowel.
Drilled a 5/16" hole down the center: 1/4" forstner bit, first, to get an accurate center hole.
Belt sander to round over the end of the dowel.
The band saw to cut the wing shape contour into the dowel.
The oscillating sander to get the final wing shape contour in the dowel.
Some 5/16" brass tubing for guns.
Drill 5/16" holes in the wing.
Dry fit the guns and pods (guns are a little below center: I used an 1/8": center gun is suppose to be a little lower than the outer two but, I was just happy that they all were aligned!).
Some aluminum foil duct tape from HD was cut to make the sheeting around the gun pods.
I find making a circle easiest by first cutting a triangle off the corner and then cutting a triangle off each side of the original triangle (for small radii).
Wing assembled to insure guns look 'squared away' and then epoxied the guns and pods onto the wing.
I used a 5/8" diameter hardwood dowel.
Drilled a 5/16" hole down the center: 1/4" forstner bit, first, to get an accurate center hole.
Belt sander to round over the end of the dowel.
The band saw to cut the wing shape contour into the dowel.
The oscillating sander to get the final wing shape contour in the dowel.
Some 5/16" brass tubing for guns.
Drill 5/16" holes in the wing.
Dry fit the guns and pods (guns are a little below center: I used an 1/8": center gun is suppose to be a little lower than the outer two but, I was just happy that they all were aligned!).
Some aluminum foil duct tape from HD was cut to make the sheeting around the gun pods.
I find making a circle easiest by first cutting a triangle off the corner and then cutting a triangle off each side of the original triangle (for small radii).
Wing assembled to insure guns look 'squared away' and then epoxied the guns and pods onto the wing.
02-22-2012, 01:58 PM
#96
RE: ZIROLI 94
Gun access doors.
I used some .020 thick plastruct plastic sheets and some elmers 3/16" thick foam core sheets with plastic surfaces.
I used the foam core sheets to make the raised area on the gun doors (I sanded the 3/16" thick sides to a gentle curve).
The plastruct plastic sheet was cut into two doors, the shell ejection holes were drawn on the sheets with a new xacto blade and a steel straight edge was used to cut them out.
The foam core was then epoxied to the plastic sheet and then, the plastic sheet was epoxied to the bottom of the wing.
Rudder:
The 1/4" thick balsa LE was too short (no tapered top) and the sides had recesses.
I epoxied a piece on the top and then epoxied some 3/32" thick balsa along each edge to get continuous sides. Not sure why the rudder's LE is recessed but I made it a duplicate of the vertical fins TE.
Some 1/8" square spruce was CA'ed to both edges of the LE and then the ribs were CA'ed to the LE and then re-enforced with some epoxy (built 'in the air' versus on the plans). The several parts of the TE was epoxied together on the plans. Most of the ribs were not flush to the TE so I laid the TE over the back of the ribs, put tick marks on the ribs and cut the ribs to get a good fit and then, the TE was epoxied to the ribs.
I used some .020 thick plastruct plastic sheets and some elmers 3/16" thick foam core sheets with plastic surfaces.
I used the foam core sheets to make the raised area on the gun doors (I sanded the 3/16" thick sides to a gentle curve).
The plastruct plastic sheet was cut into two doors, the shell ejection holes were drawn on the sheets with a new xacto blade and a steel straight edge was used to cut them out.
The foam core was then epoxied to the plastic sheet and then, the plastic sheet was epoxied to the bottom of the wing.
Rudder:
The 1/4" thick balsa LE was too short (no tapered top) and the sides had recesses.
I epoxied a piece on the top and then epoxied some 3/32" thick balsa along each edge to get continuous sides. Not sure why the rudder's LE is recessed but I made it a duplicate of the vertical fins TE.
Some 1/8" square spruce was CA'ed to both edges of the LE and then the ribs were CA'ed to the LE and then re-enforced with some epoxy (built 'in the air' versus on the plans). The several parts of the TE was epoxied together on the plans. Most of the ribs were not flush to the TE so I laid the TE over the back of the ribs, put tick marks on the ribs and cut the ribs to get a good fit and then, the TE was epoxied to the ribs.
02-23-2012, 11:55 AM
#97
RE: ZIROLI 94
Rudder (cont)
The LE was V sanded and the TE was sanded to a taper.
Some balsa block was used as hard points for both the vertical stab support and the rudder's LE for the five dubro heavy duty nylon hinges.
The two black lines across the stab support has been partial cut and will be cut out, after epoxied to the fuse, to allow assembly of the horizontal stab.
Functioning canopy:
I thought it best to install the canopy guide rails before epoxying the formers to insure an easier installation of the canopy assembly.
Installation will follow the same procedure that has been used in the past (ie, comparf F4U, Ziroli P-47, F6F). Four 6" long 5/32" square brass tubing that has a slit cut on one side, will be used.
Some brass tabs were soldered on each end of the square tubing.
Holes were drilled, before soldering, in the tabs so the square tubes could be fastened to the FG fuse.
An outline was drawn on the FG fuse for the rear square tube guides and a razor saw was used to cut out the rectangular area to insert the square tubes. The cut out area was made a little smaller than needed and then sanded to fit as, using a carpenters old adage; it's easier to remove wood than try to add it!. The square guides for the back of the canopy has 2/56 holes drilled/tapped as it was easier to insert the screws from the outside of the fuse versus from the inside of the fuse.
The square guides for the front of the canopy were secured using #1X3/16" philips head wood screws.
The square guides for the front of the canopy did not need to extend the entire length of the cockpit since the moving part of the canopy, as seen in the last picture, is only 5.5" and far short of the entire cockpit length.
The LE was V sanded and the TE was sanded to a taper.
Some balsa block was used as hard points for both the vertical stab support and the rudder's LE for the five dubro heavy duty nylon hinges.
The two black lines across the stab support has been partial cut and will be cut out, after epoxied to the fuse, to allow assembly of the horizontal stab.
Functioning canopy:
I thought it best to install the canopy guide rails before epoxying the formers to insure an easier installation of the canopy assembly.
Installation will follow the same procedure that has been used in the past (ie, comparf F4U, Ziroli P-47, F6F). Four 6" long 5/32" square brass tubing that has a slit cut on one side, will be used.
Some brass tabs were soldered on each end of the square tubing.
Holes were drilled, before soldering, in the tabs so the square tubes could be fastened to the FG fuse.
An outline was drawn on the FG fuse for the rear square tube guides and a razor saw was used to cut out the rectangular area to insert the square tubes. The cut out area was made a little smaller than needed and then sanded to fit as, using a carpenters old adage; it's easier to remove wood than try to add it!. The square guides for the back of the canopy has 2/56 holes drilled/tapped as it was easier to insert the screws from the outside of the fuse versus from the inside of the fuse.
The square guides for the front of the canopy were secured using #1X3/16" philips head wood screws.
The square guides for the front of the canopy did not need to extend the entire length of the cockpit since the moving part of the canopy, as seen in the last picture, is only 5.5" and far short of the entire cockpit length.
02-24-2012, 03:40 PM
#98
RE: ZIROLI 94
Fuse (cont)
Wing blocks:
As previously mentioned, I'm using four bolts to hold the wing to the fuse.
I cut some 3/4" thick hardwood to the appropriate size and epoxied them to the wing saddle on the FG fuse.
Tail retract gear:
I cut the tail doors out: Front of the doors are 8" from the back of the fuse and the doors are 7" long.
I also cut a new former out of aircraft ply that supports the tail mechanism.
Formers:
The servo to control the rudder and tail will be mounted on former F-3 (really F-2 on the plans but I added another former: see below) which aligns with the back of the cockpit bulkhead.
I epoxied and extra piece of ply to the former to make it easier to align/epoxy the former to the FG fuse cockpit back bulkhead.
The 'business end' of the fuse:
I'll be making a removable firewall so I can have easy access to the tank.
The firewall will have a box built to it and slide into a square hole in the first former as well as the second former. With a DA-85, I want to distribute the vibration to two formers sub-FW and F-2.
F-1 in the plans only covers the bottom half of the fuse. I've made an F-2 that covers the top half of the fuse: this former will support the back half of the engine box.
The engine box is 4"X5" which will allow a 40 oz tank to be used.
Former sub-FW has another ply sistered to it for extra support: the edges had to be rounded over to get a good fit against the front of the FG fuse.
Sub-FW was epoxied and glassed into the front of the fuse.
A new fire wall was cut that will be attached to the front of the fuse with a dozen (or so) #6X32 bolt and blind (T) nuts.
(all the new formers are 1/4" thick).
Wing blocks:
As previously mentioned, I'm using four bolts to hold the wing to the fuse.
I cut some 3/4" thick hardwood to the appropriate size and epoxied them to the wing saddle on the FG fuse.
Tail retract gear:
I cut the tail doors out: Front of the doors are 8" from the back of the fuse and the doors are 7" long.
I also cut a new former out of aircraft ply that supports the tail mechanism.
Formers:
The servo to control the rudder and tail will be mounted on former F-3 (really F-2 on the plans but I added another former: see below) which aligns with the back of the cockpit bulkhead.
I epoxied and extra piece of ply to the former to make it easier to align/epoxy the former to the FG fuse cockpit back bulkhead.
The 'business end' of the fuse:
I'll be making a removable firewall so I can have easy access to the tank.
The firewall will have a box built to it and slide into a square hole in the first former as well as the second former. With a DA-85, I want to distribute the vibration to two formers sub-FW and F-2.
F-1 in the plans only covers the bottom half of the fuse. I've made an F-2 that covers the top half of the fuse: this former will support the back half of the engine box.
The engine box is 4"X5" which will allow a 40 oz tank to be used.
Former sub-FW has another ply sistered to it for extra support: the edges had to be rounded over to get a good fit against the front of the FG fuse.
Sub-FW was epoxied and glassed into the front of the fuse.
A new fire wall was cut that will be attached to the front of the fuse with a dozen (or so) #6X32 bolt and blind (T) nuts.
(all the new formers are 1/4" thick).
02-24-2012, 04:09 PM
#99
RE: ZIROLI 94
Sam, I went back and reviewed the assembly of the wing. I don't see any alignment dowels being used in the leading edge of the wing. Do you plan on using the two trailing edge bolts and two leading edge bolts to keep the wing aligned? How about the rotational forces around the vertical axis? If the bolts are long, the wing would have a tendency to rotate as the bolts lean over. Dan.
02-24-2012, 04:59 PM
#100
RE: ZIROLI 94
Dan,
No dowels but I could put one in but I don't think the wing will shift since both surfaces of the wing and fuse will be in direct contact with each other while four bolts hold the whole thing together. I don't anticipate any movement since the bolts form about an 8"X14" rectangle with should be pretty resistant to racking. My P-61 is set up with four bolts and that works well.
It's also important to keep the diameter of the holes the same size as the bolts so no side play develops.
Thanks for your input.
===========
Fuse (cont)
Engine end.
I epoxied and glassed the second former F-2.
I cut some 5" wide and 3 3/4" wide by 1/8" thick by 9" long ply and dry fitted the box into the formers to insure everything is aligned while F-2 'cooks'.
No dowels but I could put one in but I don't think the wing will shift since both surfaces of the wing and fuse will be in direct contact with each other while four bolts hold the whole thing together. I don't anticipate any movement since the bolts form about an 8"X14" rectangle with should be pretty resistant to racking. My P-61 is set up with four bolts and that works well.
It's also important to keep the diameter of the holes the same size as the bolts so no side play develops.
Thanks for your input.
===========
Fuse (cont)
Engine end.
I epoxied and glassed the second former F-2.
I cut some 5" wide and 3 3/4" wide by 1/8" thick by 9" long ply and dry fitted the box into the formers to insure everything is aligned while F-2 'cooks'.