CRX Turbines

I am not sure fo the name of this but will look downstairs as I have this and use it all the time. yes it is a long cure but long cure is much better than short. It gives the epoxy a longer period to soak into wood fibers and gives a better bond. This is the kind of thing you use last in the day before you close up shop. It is best over night so if you are doing a lot of work over a big surface arealike an entire fuse, wing, etc, leave it cure over night.

The other thing is to use this stuff over polyester (ladies) slip material. Forget the glass. This slip material is a buck a yard in wally mart and is some strong stuff and lighter than the lightest glass out there.I use it to make jets and it holds up for that. I am not talking about EDF foamie jets.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Liquid Sheet would be an improvement over that product. I am familiar with it being a carpenter. This new product is also a two part coating, but is much faster and less messy. The odor is far less offensive as well. Although it is still recommended for well ventilated areas, it has kind of a sweet smell.

Contrary to what has been reported, when applied according to the instructions, it sands and feathers very well. I will say, it feathering is needed, give it a couple more days to cure. It can be roughed up for paint in 24hrs, but is harder in a couple more days. For fuel proofing, I still like good old 5 min epoxy cut with Denatured Alcohol. Plenty of working time, but still drys to the touch in about 20 mins. No need to baby sit the drips for hours.

CRX Turbines

I think there is also finishing epoxy maybe by name of Zpoxy? Ihave used this as well... I think the issue with sanding anytthing epxoy based poses an issue. Loads up the sandpaper but Ihave never tried liquid sheet.

tunakuts3d

Is this stuff (liquid sheeting ) Epoxy , polyester, poly ureathane or what?
Paul

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Here is the manual for applying on balsa. www.wowplanes.com/LSll_Balsa_Manual.htm I have some of the stuff, and the paperwork that comes with it, but no where does he say what solvent to use for clean up, unless I missed it. It pulls moisture in the air to cure, sort of like Gorilla glue. Not an epoxy or a resin, it would seem.

MTK

It's quite likely an acrylic chemistry since acrylics can be water based. PolyU can also be formulated in a water base except it's more rubbery textured usually. Acrylics cure hard and can be sanded and feathered easily

However, I don't believe it makes a hil o' beans difference what the chemistry is, if it works right in our models, and is lightweight. It apparently accepts spray can paint which is always a good thing. But the solvent in spray can paint like Krylon or rustoleum is only somewhat aggressive.

Acceptance of aircraft dope or epoxy paint like KlassKote, or PPG PolyU paints, would have to be tried to determine. If it's a true acrylic coating, it will accept these solvents. However, some of the materials he uses under the coating, may not like the solvents used in those paints.

I'd say proceed with caution if you are doing a foam project as described in the videos and want to use dope as the finish. Hopefully it will work fine

tunakuts3d

After looking at the instructions on the web site , I notice that this is a two part formula, A resin and a catalyst, mixed in equal parts.So this tell's me that It cure's by a chemical reaction not by evaporation of a solvent or by absorbing moisture .In fact the user is cautioned to be sure there is NOMOISTURE present in the mixing container or on the mixing and applicator tool's. There are a lot of two part compound's out there and some are more suitable for certain application's than other's and each can have differing reaction's to various solvent's or chemicals.Knowing ahead of time what you're working with could help avoid disasters and unforeseen results or Redo's. I'm saving my money till I get better information.Maybe I should ask for a M.S.D.S.
Paul

Experten109/40

My Feedback: (-1)

lookslike 2-part latex with hardner.. good luck if fuel gets underneath it.
electric = ok, fuel = I'll pass.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

States in the instructions that room temp must be above 70deg. and humidity above 35% for proper curing. He also states in his tutorial on line that in extremely dry conditions, one can boil a pan of water in the room to bring the humidity up. Humidity is not an issue for me in Ohio, but it may be in some places. It cured just fine within the projected time frame. So far, the product has worked just as WOW says it will, for me. Just giving me assessment thus far having used the stuff. I'm always looking for new and better ways to do things. Invention marches on, and I'm glad it does.

CRX Turbines

$20 for 8 oz mixed...wow...if you canfind out what it is or what it is close to in chemistry, use somethingsimilar.

What does it smell like?

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Honestly, I like the Idea that he is an American company and after meeting both him and his wife when I was in Florida, I saw his enthusiasm for the hobby and the builder, so I am happy to support him with purchases. I was so impressed with the stuff and the planes he had on display that were done with it, I ordered 3 batches when I got home. He sold out at the show. His 80" Marauder is very cool, but I may pull the trigger on the B-17. I have always wanted an RC Fort.

CRX Turbines

This is getting along the lines of buying something from Walmart versus a local business. I am sure that most hobbyists would buy the same thing for less if they were given the opportunity.

8oz mixed for $20 is steep.

tunakuts3d

I dont mind paying a premium price if the product is unique and offer's advantages over some similiar type products.However I want to know what the product is made of so I can make comparisons and decide if it's truly unique or just a packaging and marketing method to sell something that is available at a lower cost.
paul

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

I bought two myself Ram, looks like a great product, and I can't wait to use it.

I wouldn't buy my planes from Walmart, why should I cheap out now? I don't feel it's overpriced for what it is.

CRX Turbines

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

The instructions say that you dont want to go back over areas you have already applied it to. This tells me(mind you I have not used mine yet)that you dont need several coats like you would with epoxy. It settles out and you just feather out the finish. I would bet, if applied correctly, the product would go further than you think it would. You would'nt want a heavy build up anyways! Thin, strong and just enough flex not to be brittle.

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

if what was quoted earlier in the post is accurate, you could cover at least 2 60" planes with one batch.

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

see above, Evil is quite a wealth of knowledge, and rarely tells it wrong.

Casey

91zulu

My Feedback: (2)

Ram3500 the main question for me is , how far does the 8oz go. No one seem to answer that. For example can some one tell me they did a Ziroli Stuka with 8oz or 10oz or maybe some other GIANT SCALE over 80". Because I could get water base poly and 10 yds of polyester for that price and do a few giant scale planes with it. SOO can someone please give us an idea how far 8 oz will go on a 80 + inch plane. Your personal experience.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Several posts have been made regarding coverage. I think the subject has been covered. It is a new product and I'm sure we will get more feedback. But don't be fooled by the 8oz number. It goes a long way, as does resin. It flows nicely, as far as I have seen, and accepts Krylon and Rustolium paints. These I have used so far. Here are the repairs I made to my P-38, finishing it off with LS, Rustolium primer for the Grey, and Krylon camo for the green. Used maybe an once of A and B.

kahloq

interesting

Avaiojet

I watched the video.

I think this guy is onto something!

For foam, it seems to be a great way to create a finish that could be detailed. And as the gentleman said, you cannot tell it's a foam model when his product is applied.

Obviously, glass and resin, even epoxy based, will create more work than necessary for these small models. Weight also?

Larger models could be balsa sheeted followed by LS.

I have an electric project in mind and I'll definately give this product a try.

Please view the video. You will see that this modeler does a great job with his product. I also like his use of aerosol cans. I did go and sell my compressor. [sm=bananahead.gif]

CGAV8R

My Feedback: (2)

I have followed many of Fahim's (wowplanes) threads on rcscalebuilder and he covers the liqquid sheeting process very well. It is not something he just buys off the shelf and re-bottles. He worked for a couple of years perfecting what is now called liquid sheeting. He is an honest guy and will answer all of your questions if you ask him. Most of what I have read on this thread is from guys who have no idea of what liquid sheeting is. An 8 oz. order if applied correctly will cover a 62" model with 2 coats. It can be applied directly over balsa and will produce a hard surface than can be sanded and painted. The liquid sheeting when applied over balsa will be flexible and not crack (within reason).
Aaron D.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Thanks Aaron. Right on.

Avaiojet

Aaron,

My fellow Floridian, you have me convinced!

And yes, I have a good feeling about the guy also, my guess is he "is" one of the good guys. Well, he does offer those rivets like I do also. [sm=bananahead.gif]