invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

The purpose of the cloth is to eliminate any sanding. Once you peel the cloth off, you can literally just swipe over the surface with some 220 grit paper to knock a little of the texture off, clean then spray primer. It took all of 5 minutes to get both of those flaps sanded, cleaned and sprayed with primer. Now that the primer has dried, you can commence with filling the weave. If i had used a brush on 1 part primer, the primer would of filled any pinholes and filled the weave at the same time. Since i didn't have any of that primer available, I will just use some Bondo Red Glazing putty. I will smear a thin layer of that over the flap, sand down and then repaint.

YZ

Who makes the D-9 kit you are building? 

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

good question... because.. i dont have a D9.. Its an A8, but its sold by bob holman, is the old Don Lein kit. There is a build tread here on the forums.

NCIS

This thread is great for beginners but is to general for an experienced glass man. I don't see the need for the extra work myself. Plus I never use ca to bond cloth to ply or balsa. I used to do that when I first started to cover the joint between the two halfs of the wing on trainers. Don't take me wrong this just isn't my way and I will stick to what I know works better for me. Just plain thinned resin and hardner thinned with acetone for a water consistency. Good luck to all using this method!

JMHO,

Barry

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

Barry,
I never said to use CA to bond the cloth to ply or balsa. I said to use Thin CA to Re-apply any part of the fiberglass that lifts up when you peel the layer of peel-ply off. By doing this, your not soaking the fiberglass cloth with thin CA, the cloth has already been saturated with Resin, and your just using the thin ca (of which most of it ends up on the plastic baggy anyways) to re-attach the saturated cloth to the part so you are not left with a "divot" in the part. And I am not really sure why you say its more work either. I count at the least 2 sanding sessions that are eliminated (the sanding after the initial coat of resin, and the 2nd "filler" coat of resin is no longer needed, and one you pull the peel ply cloth off you are ready to paint). All you do, is just non-thinned resin. Brush/scrape/squeegee it on like you would the thinned down stuff, then lay the polyester cloth over the resin and fiberglass cloth. DONE!

By your comments, it seems as thought you haven't tried this method and are already putting it off by the "extra work". Their is no extra work, and i bet that if you try it on even just a small test piece, you will quickly change your mind. But, if you enjoy sanding resin, feel free to go about what you know works for you.

NCIS

The way I do it I never apply a second coat of resin to fill the weave. It is just a one step process. I never have to sand the resin but I have been glassing for 40 years on yachts and high performance boats before planes. But I will keep an open mind and try your method on a test piece of ply. But when it comes to covering a 100 fuselage and a 127" wing for my monster Corsair I will stick to my West Systems method.

Barry

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

Barry,
I understand. Good resins are worth there weight in gold. I used this method to fiberglass a 1/7th F14. That is. 110" wingspan and a 110" long fuselage. Oh, and that fuselage is 3 feet wide, so lots of surface area.


For those interested, each flap now weights 41grams with a full coat of primer. That is a 8 gram increase in weight. So not to bad.

NCIS

Does the 110 include the cowl. I didn't add the 14" cowl I made for mine. Don't take me wrong OKay. You are a smart guy and I didn't mean to undermine your method. I just don't know until I try it if I'll like it.

Cheers,

Barry

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

No worries, i didnt take offense to it at all. I know most of us that have been in the hobby awhile get stuck in our ways and its hard to change. I tried to keep the videos general, as some of the more difficukt stuff is best learned by doing research or learning with hands on help.

The F14 tomcat has no cowling, but has allot of surface area. It took over 150 sheets of 3/32 x 4 x 48 balsa to sheet the thing.

maddog-RCU

My Feedback: (23)

invertmast,

I enjoyed the video's you put together and it made it very clear to me about the process. I have been following Merlin Graves build on RCSB and he tried the process for the first time and now swears by it. I plan on using it the next time I have to glass myself.
I do have one question though; once you pull the cloth off of your fiberglass part can you re-use the cloth again or does it need to be tossed?

thebluemax

My Feedback: (151)

He said in the video the poly needs to be tossed. The poly that comes in contact with the resin ends up with a plastic likesheen on it so it cannot be re-used.

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

Unfortunately the poly has to be tossed. Unless the wife wants to make curtains from it.

Experten109/40

My Feedback: (-1)

really Barry? your "hollier then thou" mentallity is getting really annoying. start your own thread on glassing.
why ruin this one from the rest of uswho are interested in exploring different venues.

psb667

You see P-40K-5 Barry cant fly or finish a model this makes him very angry. He then gets on RCU tells everyone how he feels.

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

And for my next video set, i'll show you guys how to make your own canopy rails for about $15 I'm JUST kidding...

Dash7ATP

I would be very interested in seeing that! I just finished my P-47 bubble top and would have liked to have made the canopy operational. However, it had no fiberglass frame (it was an old kit) and I couldn't figure out how to make a secure mounting to the sliding fitings. Hopefully, someone can show how they do it here.

Dash

rsdriver1

Thank you for the great videos! I am in the process of fiberglassing my Pica 190d-9 and I will definately try this method. I am interested in the "gun detail kit" your using. Who makes it? I might be able to scale it down for my FW.

As for that Barry guy? There always seems to be one of "those guys" on forums. What a pity.

Thanks Again,
Dan

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

Dan,
The gun kit is no longer made, and the new owners of the rights and molds have disappeared... ill be working with another guy to possibly start making new ones.

p51tom

My Feedback: (1)

I have been fiberglassing RC models for over 40 years and hate sanding the second coat of resin I apply. I have been wet sanding with 220 then use Rust-oleum Spray can Primer and then wet sand with 400. I have used epoxy and latex paint to finish the models. I get very good results but my hands and arms are getting too old to spend 10 or more hours sanding. I would like to use your method but have not had success purchasing 100% polyester cloth. I have tried Walmart and a large fabric store in my area. I have done some searching on the InterNet. Most sites show items made from this cloth but not the cloth itself. I would not want to order a large amount of material and receive the wrong thing. Could you list any sources you have for this material?

Thanks for your help.
P51Tom

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

Tom,
I get my stuff from Walmart most of the time. It takes a bit of time to search through my walmarts huge fabric selection, but it is there.

p51tom

My Feedback: (1)

Thomas, thanks for your reply. I went back to Walmart and found some material. They did not have it in the fabric section but I found some in the window treatment section. I was able to purchase a 59" X 63" window panel of 100% polyester material for $4.75. I don't know if this is a good price or not but it will be well worth any cost if it cuts down on my sanding. Here is a photo of my TFGS P51D which took a great deal of sanding to get a good finish while keeping the weight down (23 pounds).
Have a good one.
P51Tom

Flyfast1

My Feedback: (1)

P51Tom,

Beautiful job on the plane. I really like the paint scheme. I have the same plane (but different scheme) and they fly great at that weight, don't they?

-Ed B.

Meschmidt

My Feedback: (15)

Good tips here ! For those who hate sanding and all the itchy fiberglass dust, try using silk instead of cloth. It's cheaper,requires only one coat resin, lighter, and hardly no sanding at all except around the edges. Get any thickness at www.Thaisilks.com . I used 5 mm Habotai. Pt# 021F . After doing my TF GS P51 and a TF P47 with silk, I'll never use cloth again ! Paul

jeff naul

My Feedback: (16)

Goofing aroung in the shop the other night I tried this on a landing gear door. I used regular Zap resin not thinned and applied one coat to the door and let soak a while. then covered using my 3/4 oz cloth and whatever resin needed to give the cloth a good soak. Next all I had was wax paper but what the heck, Put it on like you said and worked the bubbles and resin out to the edges. Let it set overnight and the next morning pulled the wax paper. Cleaned the part with thinner to remove the wax left by the paper, a quick sand with 220, one coat of rattle can primer and let sit. came back filled a few spots in the weave, sanded for a minute and one more light coat of primer and done! This is the only way to glass!!!! of course the wax paper was just a trial, I'll go get the cloth for the wings. It will take a little testing to get the right resin amount but like anything its a skill to learn. The little filling that I had to do would have been taken care of by the primer if I were spraying out of the gun.

damagedgoodes

I had a mate come around and show me how he glasses as I've never done it before. His method was sand hori stab smooth with 400 grit, lay 3/4 oz cloth on part, pour West Sytems slow set resin onto cloth and spread to edges with a piece of balsa or credit card leaving just enough resin on the part to look slightly glossy. It turned out ok but i had several spots that had a bit too much resin and had quite a bit of sanding. Then I found this thread and watched your videos but didn't have any peel ply. On the top half of the hori stab I sanded smooth same way, then poured resin directly onto the surface and spread it out with a cheap disposable foam roller rather than a brush like you use. This gave a uniform coating of resin, then i layed the cloth on top and went over it with the foam roller without anymore resin. This surface came out much better than the credit card way and I had very little sanding. Last night I did the bottom of the wings using the same method but had managed to source some peel ply. This morning I pulled off the ply and the finish was perfect bar a couple of minor spots where the peel ply had a small raise in it and had not directly contacted the cloth due to being all scruched up when I got it (new I should have ironed it before using it...) which results in a small low spot. The peel ply not only soaks up any excess resin as you've said but brings the resin to the top of the weave to fill the weave. Where the peel ply was not in direct contact the top of the weave can be felt and seen. I used 50 mls of resin on each bottom wing half of my ESM P-40 which is an 87 inch plane. The foam roller for me is a huge help as it distributes an even coating of resin with just the right amount, is great for rolling over the fibreglass cloth to get the wrinkles out and then also to roll over the top of the peel ply to get good contact, then throw the roller in the bin.
Once again thanks for the videos, they have saved me a heap of time and given me more confidence in this hobby. Cheers,
Dave