Nice looking aluminum finish Ram! Is that paint or foil?
Quite honestly, I'm not sure why this kit got phased out. Not because of the design I would think. I haven't started on the wing yet, but it looks really straightforward, just a normal foam core setup. The fuselage is going together really fast, and is not at all hard to get straight.
I have the formers all glued in place, and most of the stringers in. The first part of the intercooler door tracks are installed, and the fuse frame cut away where the doors will go. Before I get the sheeting on, I still need to rout the pushrods for the elevator and tailwheel, and pull-pull wires for the rudder. (I wanted to do all hidden linkages but with the rudder and elev. hinge lines on the same plane it would be really tricky to achieve) Also its time to install the intercooler doors. I made one up out of lithoplate aluminum, using carbon tubes for the guide posts. It seems to work fine, but I have a couple of decisions to make.
Are the doors supposed to be flush with the outer skin when closed? or are they recessed? I cant find a good pic of this anywhere, ( I suppose in the grand scheme of things that if I cant really see exactly how it is in the pics Ive seen, it will be scale enough however I do it
Its just nice to know these things)
The plans suggest having the doors spring loaded, and tied by a cable to either the throttle or retract servo. My first impression would be that tying it to the throttle would provide the most scale like movement. It just worries me that the throttle servo would have to work against the springs. Also, if done as suggested and spring loaded to close (which is supposed to be the full throttle position) if the servo failed the springs could drag the motor to full throttle.
That brings me to another point, I can understand why the cowl flaps close at full throttle and open at idle, partly since they still leave a gap when closed, and because of the increased air pressure at full throttle. A) do the intercooler doors actually close at full throttle? and B) if so, is there a gap or do they close all the way?
Another thing I'm considering is replacing the fuse sheeting with much thinner stock. The original sides are really thick... 3/16''. The structure is already fairly stiff with no sheeting on it at all, and I plan to glass and paint the plane. I'm thinking I should go down to 3/32'' or even 1/16'' sheeting. (or I suppose I could plane down the original sides... it would be tedious but it would save buying the wood. Too bad I don't have a laser capable of just splitting one of the sheets into 2 thin ones