CARF pilot

Hi, again, Richard



I've decided to modify the Moki with an electric fuel pump system from APS, the the APS Power Fuel380, which also has a Venturi system for improved distribution of fuel to the cylinders. This means extending the carburetor approximately 4,5 inches backwards, through the firewall, so the throttle servo setup must be modified. As far as I've seen from the pictures, this should be straightforward?

By the way, approximately how many working hours will it take you to finish this ship?


Best

CARF Pilot

RichardGee

My Feedback: (156)

I don't want to discourage you from adding to the reliability of your Moki, but having spoken with a few guys who are flying the 250 in several war birds, they said that all you have to do is keep the carburetor / crankcase pressure tube cleared of crankcase grease build-up and the Moki never misses a beat.
A fuel regulator or pump is rendered unnecessary.
However, I will admit it probably cannot hurt.

I will try to post more pictures before the end of the weekend. Having completed the gear, gear doors, ailerons and flaps, the most difficult parts of the plane are DONE.

I still have to run all the air lines and servo extensions, etc....ground test and test and test and test... then paint this whale

I am realistically shooting for flying this thing by mid May!

CARF pilot

OK!

I'll get the pump. Maybe I'll keep it as an option, and use the standard setup for starters, and see how it works out. It shouldn't be too much toruble doing the modification afterwards.

Thanks

CARF pilot

By the way; I'm going to build two of these, and on one of them. I'm going for the Zirkus Rosarius paint scheme. Relatively simple to do , yet impressive. Ralle in Germany will do the decals

RichardGee

My Feedback: (156)

The CARF-Models Thunderbolt is coming along nicely. The gear and gear doors are DONE. This is probably the most challenging area of the "build" (like that's any surprise).
Time to get the air valves and gear door sequencer set up.

You cannot believe how HEAVY the wings are once everything is installed[] THANKFULLY, this puppy has LOTS o' wing area PLUS, the wings and gear are built like proverbial 'Brick sh Houses' .... just like the REAL T-Bolt

Here are some pictures of the flaps and flap servo; cowl with scale baffles glued in; prop blades and Solo hub w/P-47 Scale in Detail for size reference (blades come in a "4 pack" from CARF)...very much like my favorite draught Stout

I have chosen my finish... "BONNIE" flown by Major Dunham; 2nd leading ace from the 348th fighter squadron. He scored 15 out of his 16 victories while flying P-47s against the Japanese.

fifou313

Hello Richard.
I have receive friday my kit for this amazing plane. But I have some little question about the kit.
I have somme parts which I don't know chere they go...On your first post you have put pics of the parts so could you telle me where the parts 8/9/16 and 25 (number on the pics) go?
Could you explain us how mount the weel cover?
Last thing in your kit do you have the rudder axle?
Thanks a lot.
best regards.

RichardGee

My Feedback: (156)

Part #8 Air outlet cover.
Part #9 Turbo-supercharger outlet cover… Look at a 3 view of the P-47. This was an outlet for the turbo-charger – a.k.a. “waste gate”

Part #16 Cockpit Air Intake… This goes on the leading edge of the right wing near the root. See a front view of the plane

Part #25 Milled wood parts bag – contents… The wood parts make the equipment tray and mounts. The phenolic parts are for the cowl baffle dividers (see my post from last night of the cowl baffle).

See my revised side views with the locations of Parts 8 and 9

fifou313

Thanks a lot Richard.
I don't speak about the retract. My english is little bad lol. I speak about the rudder of the plane. Do you have the vertical axis (not axle excuse me) for the rudder beetween the mobile part and the fix part.
Last thing. do you have other 3 views of the plane for painting it?
Thanks a lot.
Bets regards.
Philippe

RichardGee

My Feedback: (156)

Philippe,
NO, my kit did not include the rudder hinge pin material (we call it 'piano wire')

I did notify the kit maker of this oversight. It is very easy to replace if you have some hardened wire stock.

You can find additional pictures of the P-47 on line or in publications like these...

TJPro351

My Feedback: (8)

Took the big step and ordered the "JUG". Ray Labonte advises Jun/Jul deliver. I have the CARF Corsair with Moki 215 (purchased used) and most are staying the P-47 is detailed a lot more and better then the Corsair. Just hope it flys like the Corsair or better. Looking forward to your build Richard and the detailed instructions.
Now I just need to sell my...my.....ahhh.... 3???......what was it??? oh ya....3D plane to get the Moki 250 and hopefully have some money left over for a servo or two

Going to Top Gun this year (spectator) and the CARF team will be there with the P-47. Looking forward to this huge event!

Keep the photos coming!
Tim

Helijet

hmmm..nice plane...maybe one in my future!

d.w.

RichardGee

My Feedback: (156)

Here are a few photos of me, Andreas Gietz, and his P-47 at California JETS.
No, the JUG is no JET, but was VERY well-recieved during the noon-time demo show!

His next Thunderbolt venues are TOP GUN and JOE NALL[8D]

RichardGee

My Feedback: (156)

Guys,
Here are some shots of various areas of the plane I have now completed:

Access Hatch (for RC switches, air fill)
Retract air lines installed and dressed
Zinc chromate green on inner gear doors
Tailwheel door actuators - very simple but effective
Cockpit fresh air intake (right wing LE)
Air and Turbo-supercharger outlet covers on fuselage underside

RichardGee

My Feedback: (156)

I found a fairly inexpensive way to make the scale exhaust outlets utilizing hot water heater corrugated copper pipe stock found at most hardware and home improvement stores. I added a "waste gate" and voila!

42% Products Blu Box power distribution unit and batteries are installed on equipment tray.
JET Tronics retract valves, air bottle and 42% Products HD switches also installed.

Jack Diaz

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Richard, what is the nominal diameter of the corrugated copper pipe you used? Lenght?

Thanks and regards
Jack

RichardGee

My Feedback: (156)

Jack,

The smooth ends are just slightly over 20mm in dia. This means they slip right over the Moki exhaust stubs. I cut slots in the copper pipe so that the hose clamps could crimp them down tight around the Moki stubs.
At the very end of the pipe, the diameter is slightly larger (too large to fit on Moki stubs) and it is these end pieces I cut off and used for the angle cut exhaust outlets, silver soldering them to the ends of the copper pipe.

I have not yet run the engine with these 12 inch extensions, so cannot attest to how they affect performance.

Jack Diaz

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks a lot Richard.
I should receive my P-47 by June - July.
I already have the Moki 250 on my AW FW190. I use two straight silicone hoses and helicopter tail boom pieces (saved from crashes), as exhaust extensions. They work fine, but run straight down.

Let me know how your idea works. Do you know what Andreas did on his?

Regards and thanks for the thread

Jack

RichardGee

My Feedback: (156)

btw: Your son's F-100 and flying were Awesome today at the Masters Qualifier!

Andreas used canister header pipes for exhaust extensions on his. I did not examine his install closely enough to ascertain how he pieced it together, but he did tell me the headers were larger in diameter than the Moki stubs, so the exhaust just dumps into the header pipes.
Number one, I did not happens to have an extra set of headers I could sacrifice; number two, I am not sure how to make headers work in this application, as they are not flexible?

My use of flexible copper pipe seemed plausible and relatively inexpensive, but as I say, yet unproven in the air.

You will like the P-47
I am hoping to have the Builders Manual finished by the end of May[8D]

Jack Diaz

My Feedback: (1)

I just was on the phone talking to my son about the conversation you two had today. Isn't that coincidence?

I will let you know as soon as I try the Turbolator on my 250. Cylinder #4 is running a lot cooler than the others and I think that is causing some coughing of the engine at about 5 minutes into the flight. Turbolator is supposed to make the fuel/air mixture similar to all cylinders; thus, not causing some going lean and some going rich during flight
I am asking Dr. Gotz for his opinion. I will pass it to you.

If your flexible tube idea works, that is the way I will follow. I asked you about the dimensions because my son will visit me next month, and I will ask him to bring me a couple of the tubes.

Regards

Jack

P47Pilot

I can't wait! Below are a couple of pictures of my own, ready to be assembled. The first one is besides the CARF Yak 2.6m for comparison. It's a big bird.

RichardGee

My Feedback: (156)

You can let him know I purchased two 18 inch units at Home Depot, as I wanted to be sure I had plenty of material with which to work.
Hopefully the attached pictures give you a better idea of what I did to make this exhaust. Of course, the manual goes into great detail

I have spoken with Andreas about pumps and other units to 'help' the Moki perform, and he says nothing additional is necessary. The clear tube that provides carburetor pulses for fuel pump operation MUST remain clean of built up oil from the crankcase. This is very easy to do with the Festo fittings. Probably a good idea is to clean the tube and oil the rockers routinely before every outing.

You may also want to check your intake manifold to cylinder #4... perhaps the seal is compromised and it is sucking air?

Perhaps the ignition unit has a problem at #4? I would make sure the engine is operating perfectly before adding what could be a "band aid" that could mask a larger problem... just my opinion. And YES, I would be interested in hearing what you find out.

DENTO

HI JACK
In RCU there is a forum MOKI CARE AND MAINTENANCE this is very helpfull and will give you all the information on your MOKI .
REGARDS JOHN

RichardGee

My Feedback: (156)

Working on the gear and gear door sequencing. Learning the operation of the JET Tronics valves; [] a bit frustrating due to sketchy instructions (that is why I write instruction manuals). Ran out of red and green air line, so moved onto another facet of the project...

I set up the Solo Prop hub and CARF CF prop blades today. Not difficult at all.
Set the pitch to approx. 12 inch, according to Solo instructions.
4 blade prop is 30" diameter.

Andreas says Moki 250 should turn 3800 rpm on the ground; will unload to 5500 rpm in the air. Some further pitch adjustment may be necessary before I arrive at these performance figures.

Jack Diaz

My Feedback: (1)

Hi John.
Thanks for the info regarding the Moki Care and Maintenance thread.
I just finished reading it. Is loooong, but extremely helpful.
And best of all, nobody insulted everybody else.... LOL. (I guess I am used to the Jet forum).

Thanks again

Jack

Scott Prossen

Hi Jack and Hello John,

I'm glad you guys found the Moki thread and I hope that you visit often. We appreciate any and all Moki Owners comments and questions. Started the thread about 2 years ago because there was so little documentation available. Through everyones experience and knowledge we now have some pretty good information available to all of us. Please, as you learn more about your engines don't hesitate to share it with the Moki thread. We all need all the helpful resources we can get. Prop types, sizes and rpms are simple bits of information we could use a lot more data on if you care to share. Anything else you care to add would be great.

Thanks for checking in guys!

Sincerely,
Scott