Greg Wright

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Ragz,
I have a Bubble top version with the sierra Pneumatic gear and i'm able to get atleast 5 cycles on the gear and doors. I have the gear operating on one valve and air tank and the doors are on another Valve and Air Tank of there own.
Then i'm able to sequence them thru my DX18.

Ragz

Thanks for the info Greg. I have started the build today. Will be a long slow build.

Getting the angles rights on the landing gear is challenging to say the least. Mine needs spacers and they need to be angled...hmmm...I wonder if anyone has exact dimensions for the spacer blocks?

mujenpwr

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Can anyone share the process and pictures on how they made the canopy sliding and the slots?

Thx

JM

Greg Wright

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Ragz,


If you go onto the Carf website and pull up the manual it shows you all of the dimensions for the spacers in there. It also discribes how to do the whole process.

desertrat65

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Guys,

I too am doing the sliding canopy on my P-47. I have the manual and I have searched the web site. I can only find how to attach the canopy with rare earth magnets.

I have purchased a Lado electric actuator to open and close the canopy. I have watched Wojtek's Youtube videos on his electric opening canopy. He uses two linear servos. I hope to have my canopy slide with just one actuator using a "T" layout.
I am with Mujenpwr any tips on how to proceed would be greatly appreciated.

Regards, Adam.

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

I just did it with one firgelli on a yellow p-47 Posted a bunch of pics.. here is the link http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-w...ow-p-47-a.html

peter w h

Geeezzz, I must have been lucky, no shims needed - bolted straight on to mounting plates and both at perfect and equal angels.



Peter.

wojtek

My Feedback: (73)

here you go ... and also how to do dive flaps and cowl flaps that move evenly

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ELlFYCT1ZM&x-yt-ts=1422411861&x-yt-cl=84924572 i just run bolts down from the frame, and springs with nylon washers to keep downward tension on it, and keep if from binding.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZpWwdtS4PKY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mC9z6QMkgFo
and if you are adventurous, here's an idea for a pilot ... mini servos, and a pololu 8ch servo controller ( www.pololu.com )

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fb2eqHv-ajg

wojtek

My Feedback: (73)

Shims were only needed on the very early kits.

peter w h

Hey Wojtek, Good stuff - what's your plane weigh in at ?

Peter.

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

I like the ball link idea! Much more linear than the nyrod, I have the nyrod on my corsair cowl flaps and they can lose their symmetry as they're opening and closing.

Ragz

Have started work on my carf 47/moki 250. Gears and main doors are done. Today I started work on the engine. Any tips on how to centre the engine vis a vis the cowl? The carbon dome is already offset 15 mm to the left to compensate for the right thrust. Do I make the holes on the carbon dome with the engine centered on the dome? I didn't notice the dome was already to the left and I drilled holes on the dome to the left by 8mm to centre in the cowl. Strangely it did work out, but the prop is now touching the right side of the cowl and the rockers are almost touching the left side of the cowl. It seems that I have corrected for right thrust twice over...I am totally confused now. Whats the best way to get this engine to align correctly? In the last pic, you can see the red dots are the markings if the engine is centered on the dome, and the black dots are the actual holes I made slightly to the left, but the prop is still centered as you can see in the second pic... something is surely amiss...

In my version of the kit (sep 2014), the rudder hinge wire and the elevator arms come in contact. How does one correct this issue?





Any tips will be appreciated.

thanks in advance.

Greg Wright

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Deleted post!!!

Greg Wright

My Feedback: (6)

Greg Wright

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Ragz

Thanks Greg, this is the manual. I have this and used it for whatever work I have done so far. It states "the template will be used to transfer location to the engine dome" This is a bit random. And this is exactly where I am stuck.

thanks again.

Greg Wright

My Feedback: (6)

Ragz,
Here are a couple pictures i took during the assembly of my Jug. As you can see the nose cone will not be centered exacly if you get the engine Cup mounted to the firewall in the center like it should be.
This is why you have the issues with the left side of the engine touching the cowl. You need to raise the cup up until it is touching the 2 cowl mounts and then you need to get the engine centered on to the Carbon cup itself.

Greg Wright

My Feedback: (6)

As far as the 2 bladed prop goes for touching the cowl. Mine does the same thing. The 4 bladed prop doesn't do this. the way to fix this is to get your self an extra spacer from Moki to stick behind the prop and then it should be fine. The spacer is just another chaser like the one that comes with the engine for the front of the prop when you bolt it in place.

RichardGee

My Feedback: (156)

Gents, I wrote the manual and built CARF P-47 production model #2 in the process. As I recall, there is NO WIGGLE ROOM for installing the Moki left, right, up or down. It must be installed so that the rocker arms DO NOT touch the cowling. I closely examined the first production model at Best of West Jet Fly when Andreas was showcasing it there. There was actually a spot on the cowl where a rocker had broken through because of inadequate clearance. Because there is almost NO clearance, the engine is installed primarily concerning the cowl interference. And (as you are finding out), the prop clearance is minimal. Ideally, someone should machine a spacer that allows the 4 blade prop to be spaced out in front of the cowl in a scale position - I contacted a company about doing this a couple years ago and they never responded to my request. While I consider this kit a 'masterpiece,' in a perfect world it would have been drawn up and produced just 2% - 3% larger and there would have been adequate engine space inside the cowl. Even slightly larger and couple more pounds, the Moki 250 is plenty of power... but alas, it is what it is.

Greg Wright

My Feedback: (6)

Richard,
My plane has been finished and flying for a full summer already and as you stated there is absolutely no wiggle room on the engine install. I also had a small spot on the top of the cowl break thru from a rocker arm hitting.
But other than that it is a well designed and great flying airplane. I will enter it at Top-Gun this year as my Pro-Am entry. What i'm seeing on Ragz plane is that he has not gotten the motor in the correct location and it is just causing him grief.

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

Apparently B-day wishes are the order of the day! Have a great one and go ahead and buy yourself something nice!

RichardGee

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GREAT Paint scheme! Hope you do well at TG!

Greg Wright

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Thanks Chad Veich, I have already ordered 2 planes a few months ago that I'm still waiting for the arrival of from Germany!!

Thanks Richard!! I will do my best at TG.

DiscoWings

My Feedback: (76)

does anyone sell scale exhaust kit for this? I have one from RAM3500-rcu for my corsair, its pretty nice, but I don't think he has one for the P-47

Ragz

Thanks for the tips. Will play around with the engine mounting bit more today to find a sweet spot. Does Moki sell spacers now?