CARF-Models P-47 Thunderbolt
02-18-2015, 12:51 PM
#726
I have the mechanical set up that they show in the instructions. All that happens with them if the holder isn't careful, is they will close with out damage. But then the tail wheel will not retract this way.
Then i just smack my holder upside the head and tell him to be careful the next time.
Then i just smack my holder upside the head and tell him to be careful the next time.
02-18-2015, 03:51 PM
#727
Here is a video of how I do all tail wheel doors now. Simple and needs no air. Very nice if you have converted everything else to electric.
For the P-47, I simply set the stops up so they open farther.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bABdLsrZ4eo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lBK_hQnO_Yw
For the P-47, I simply set the stops up so they open farther.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bABdLsrZ4eo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lBK_hQnO_Yw
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 02-18-2015 at 04:03 PM.
02-24-2015, 05:07 AM
#728
The thunderbolt is finally on her feet now...things should move a bit faster henceforth... Time to get all the systems to talk to each other and get the engine throttle servo/choke servo done.. then to the scaling part...im pleased so far.
02-24-2015, 08:14 AM
#730
Howdy Gents,
So cool to watch along as you build this aircraft.
I too am building one. I bought one along with the Moki250 radial about 4 years ago and began work on it in San Diego.
I have since retired and relocated to central Oregon and now that my life is somewhat back in order AND I have the shop of my dreams I am starting back into the project.
I was the first guy to send my Sierra P47 gear to D & L for electric conversion and went through the pains with them trying to deal with the sequencer handling the air control to the struts on the mains.
I sure was hoping for a total electric aircraft but it looks like we still need some air....sigh
Curious about the decision to use pneumatic rams for gear doors vs micro servos. I just see air systems as evil. I don't mind working on a system to make sure its right and thoroughly tested but air systems seem to work fine during ground testing and then fail in flight in my experience.
I am still in a quandary about which paint scheme to choose. I'm looking for an airplane like SNAFU with invasion stripes but the more I read I don't think many planes of the 78th actually had invasion stripes. Don't get me wrong I am not planning to compete in scale events but I always prefer to model after actual aircraft that have a good story.
I am about ready to install the retracts and get her on her feet so I better go the shop.
Thanks again for all the effort to post your progress and discuss issues. It really helps to see how others have addressed the same issues you are facing.
Blue skies,
So cool to watch along as you build this aircraft.
I too am building one. I bought one along with the Moki250 radial about 4 years ago and began work on it in San Diego.
I have since retired and relocated to central Oregon and now that my life is somewhat back in order AND I have the shop of my dreams I am starting back into the project.
I was the first guy to send my Sierra P47 gear to D & L for electric conversion and went through the pains with them trying to deal with the sequencer handling the air control to the struts on the mains.
I sure was hoping for a total electric aircraft but it looks like we still need some air....sigh
Curious about the decision to use pneumatic rams for gear doors vs micro servos. I just see air systems as evil. I don't mind working on a system to make sure its right and thoroughly tested but air systems seem to work fine during ground testing and then fail in flight in my experience.
I am still in a quandary about which paint scheme to choose. I'm looking for an airplane like SNAFU with invasion stripes but the more I read I don't think many planes of the 78th actually had invasion stripes. Don't get me wrong I am not planning to compete in scale events but I always prefer to model after actual aircraft that have a good story.
I am about ready to install the retracts and get her on her feet so I better go the shop.
Thanks again for all the effort to post your progress and discuss issues. It really helps to see how others have addressed the same issues you are facing.
Blue skies,
02-24-2015, 03:41 PM
#731
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: herveybay, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 304
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Howdy Gents,
So cool to watch along as you build this aircraft.
I too am building one. I bought one along with the Moki250 radial about 4 years ago and began work on it in San Diego.
I have since retired and relocated to central Oregon and now that my life is somewhat back in order AND I have the shop of my dreams I am starting back into the project.
I was the first guy to send my Sierra P47 gear to D & L for electric conversion and went through the pains with them trying to deal with the sequencer handling the air control to the struts on the mains.
I sure was hoping for a total electric aircraft but it looks like we still need some air....sigh
Curious about the decision to use pneumatic rams for gear doors vs micro servos. I just see air systems as evil. I don't mind working on a system to make sure its right and thoroughly tested but air systems seem to work fine during ground testing and then fail in flight in my experience.
I am still in a quandary about which paint scheme to choose. I'm looking for an airplane like SNAFU with invasion stripes but the more I read I don't think many planes of the 78th actually had invasion stripes. Don't get me wrong I am not planning to compete in scale events but I always prefer to model after actual aircraft that have a good story.
I am about ready to install the retracts and get her on her feet so I better go the shop.
Thanks again for all the effort to post your progress and discuss issues. It really helps to see how others have addressed the same issues you are facing.
Blue skies,
So cool to watch along as you build this aircraft.
I too am building one. I bought one along with the Moki250 radial about 4 years ago and began work on it in San Diego.
I have since retired and relocated to central Oregon and now that my life is somewhat back in order AND I have the shop of my dreams I am starting back into the project.
I was the first guy to send my Sierra P47 gear to D & L for electric conversion and went through the pains with them trying to deal with the sequencer handling the air control to the struts on the mains.
I sure was hoping for a total electric aircraft but it looks like we still need some air....sigh
Curious about the decision to use pneumatic rams for gear doors vs micro servos. I just see air systems as evil. I don't mind working on a system to make sure its right and thoroughly tested but air systems seem to work fine during ground testing and then fail in flight in my experience.
I am still in a quandary about which paint scheme to choose. I'm looking for an airplane like SNAFU with invasion stripes but the more I read I don't think many planes of the 78th actually had invasion stripes. Don't get me wrong I am not planning to compete in scale events but I always prefer to model after actual aircraft that have a good story.
I am about ready to install the retracts and get her on her feet so I better go the shop.
Thanks again for all the effort to post your progress and discuss issues. It really helps to see how others have addressed the same issues you are facing.
Blue skies,
I have the SNAFU LOOKS VERY NICE Also with air I have always stuck with air but always with quality fittings is the answer Aways oil the lines and rams before use Have gone to use a model after
3 to 6 months and still air in system JUST MY $ WORTH
REGARDS
JOHN
02-24-2015, 03:43 PM
#732
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: herveybay, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 304
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REGARDS
JOHN
02-24-2015, 05:10 PM
#733
Thanks John!
I appreciate the thoughts the air systems. Could you recommend an air fitting supplier you like? Never heard of oiling the air system but I don't know why it makes a ton of sense. Do you just use light air tool like oil? How much? Even though the only air I hope to have is to the main struts I want to take my time and make every system as good as I can make it. So now onto the more interesting question the meaning of SNAFU. Ya know I always thought it was like a mistake or some type of error. The dictionary says it means confused or a chaotic state. But with more digging I eventually learned that there might be more than one interpretation of this acronym. Freakin Hilarious! Thanks PERFECT name for an aircraft!
I appreciate the thoughts the air systems. Could you recommend an air fitting supplier you like? Never heard of oiling the air system but I don't know why it makes a ton of sense. Do you just use light air tool like oil? How much? Even though the only air I hope to have is to the main struts I want to take my time and make every system as good as I can make it. So now onto the more interesting question the meaning of SNAFU. Ya know I always thought it was like a mistake or some type of error. The dictionary says it means confused or a chaotic state. But with more digging I eventually learned that there might be more than one interpretation of this acronym. Freakin Hilarious! Thanks PERFECT name for an aircraft!
02-25-2015, 02:56 AM
#734
My Feedback: (360)
Air components ? Here is what I use that has worked well for me over the years :
High quality airline-BVM, which is actually Freelin Wade 95A if I recall-available in bulk (don't even think about using the Robart airline)
BVM purple fill valves-expensive, but they don't leak
Brass only 'tees'-be careful here-some brands leak. In this case I DO use the Robart ones-they have been trouble free
Ultra Precision valves
Test each cylinder individulaly with hemostats to make sure O rings are good before final plumbing.
Of course, there are other well made components out there-just telling you what has proven itself in my models over the years.
-Mike O
High quality airline-BVM, which is actually Freelin Wade 95A if I recall-available in bulk (don't even think about using the Robart airline)
BVM purple fill valves-expensive, but they don't leak
Brass only 'tees'-be careful here-some brands leak. In this case I DO use the Robart ones-they have been trouble free
Ultra Precision valves
Test each cylinder individulaly with hemostats to make sure O rings are good before final plumbing.
Of course, there are other well made components out there-just telling you what has proven itself in my models over the years.
-Mike O
02-25-2015, 05:17 AM
#735
Air components ? Here is what I use that has worked well for me over the years :
High quality airline-BVM, which is actually Freelin Wade 95A if I recall-available in bulk (don't even think about using the Robart airline)
BVM purple fill valves-expensive, but they don't leak
Brass only 'tees'-be careful here-some brands leak. In this case I DO use the Robart ones-they have been trouble free
Ultra Precision valves
Test each cylinder individulaly with hemostats to make sure O rings are good before final plumbing.
Of course, there are other well made components out there-just telling you what has proven itself in my models over the years.
-Mike O
High quality airline-BVM, which is actually Freelin Wade 95A if I recall-available in bulk (don't even think about using the Robart airline)
BVM purple fill valves-expensive, but they don't leak
Brass only 'tees'-be careful here-some brands leak. In this case I DO use the Robart ones-they have been trouble free
Ultra Precision valves
Test each cylinder individulaly with hemostats to make sure O rings are good before final plumbing.
Of course, there are other well made components out there-just telling you what has proven itself in my models over the years.
-Mike O
I no it sounds like a lot of work but if your up to it you can also safety wire each connection for a total leak proof system.
Last edited by Greg Wright; 02-25-2015 at 05:22 AM.
02-25-2015, 03:47 PM
#736
Thanks Mike & Greg for your recommendations for quality pneumatic components.
Had another question.........Has anyone needed to open the cowl flaps on this model with the Moki 250 Radial?
In trial fitting the cowl to the airplane last night it didn't seem like there was nearly enough air exit area between the cowl and fuselage nose compared to the area of the opening in the front of the cowl.
Aren't you supposed to have like twice the amount of exit area as you do inlet area?
I know there are quite a few of these flying with the same motor just curious if motor overheating is occurring.
KInda wanted to make functional cowl flaps anyway just curious.
Thanks
Tom
Had another question.........Has anyone needed to open the cowl flaps on this model with the Moki 250 Radial?
In trial fitting the cowl to the airplane last night it didn't seem like there was nearly enough air exit area between the cowl and fuselage nose compared to the area of the opening in the front of the cowl.
Aren't you supposed to have like twice the amount of exit area as you do inlet area?
I know there are quite a few of these flying with the same motor just curious if motor overheating is occurring.
KInda wanted to make functional cowl flaps anyway just curious.
Thanks
Tom
02-26-2015, 04:39 AM
#737
Tom,
I have had zero issues with the engine overheating in my plane. There is plenty of exit air space for the motor as long as you put a Baffle in the cowl as is recommended by Moki you will be just fine.
I have done this on mine and also have had a few friends do it, and
the temps are in the 160 to 180 degree range after a flight.
I have had zero issues with the engine overheating in my plane. There is plenty of exit air space for the motor as long as you put a Baffle in the cowl as is recommended by Moki you will be just fine.
I have done this on mine and also have had a few friends do it, and
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frankyjg2012 (05-19-2020)
03-04-2015, 09:32 AM
#744
Are you guys using the Turbulator on the Moki 250's these days? It was being used a few years ago when I first bought my Moki's and I used one on my 250 mounted in the 33% Waco but I would like to eliminate it for the P47 build because it moves the carb so far back. I have heard a few guys running the Moki 250's at fly-ins saying you really only need it on the Moki 150's. I did notice it helped even out the CHT among the cylinders 250 when I installed it. I would appreciate your opinions.
Thanks
Thanks
03-04-2015, 09:38 AM
#746
Are you guys using the Turbulator on the Moki 250's these days? It was being used a few years ago when I first bought my Moki's and I used one on my 250 mounted in the 33% Waco but I would like to eliminate it for the P47 build because it moves the carb so far back. I have heard a few guys running the Moki 250's at fly-ins saying you really only need it on the Moki 150's. I did notice it helped even out the CHT among the cylinders 250 when I installed it. I would appreciate your opinions.
Thanks
Thanks
03-04-2015, 09:43 AM
#747
Can you point me to where I could learn more about this "high voltage ignition option? Is this something new that has been developed recently? It has been about 4 years since I bought my Moki radials?
03-04-2015, 10:41 AM
#748
Tom,
They have upgraded the ignition module to where it will operate on anything from 6volt all the way up to 9volt batteries. Don't quote me on this but if you decide to upgrade i think they have to replace the coils that are in the back of the motor.
That means you would have to send it in to do this.
You could call Gotz Vogelsang and he will answer all your questions on the Moki's.
http://teamaeroscale.com
They have upgraded the ignition module to where it will operate on anything from 6volt all the way up to 9volt batteries. Don't quote me on this but if you decide to upgrade i think they have to replace the coils that are in the back of the motor.
That means you would have to send it in to do this.
You could call Gotz Vogelsang and he will answer all your questions on the Moki's.
http://teamaeroscale.com
Last edited by Greg Wright; 03-04-2015 at 10:51 AM.
03-04-2015, 12:22 PM
#749
Tom,
They have upgraded the ignition module to where it will operate on anything from 6volt all the way up to 9volt batteries. Don't quote me on this but if you decide to upgrade i think they have to replace the coils that are in the back of the motor.
That means you would have to send it in to do this.
You could call Gotz Vogelsang and he will answer all your questions on the Moki's.
http://teamaeroscale.com
They have upgraded the ignition module to where it will operate on anything from 6volt all the way up to 9volt batteries. Don't quote me on this but if you decide to upgrade i think they have to replace the coils that are in the back of the motor.
That means you would have to send it in to do this.
You could call Gotz Vogelsang and he will answer all your questions on the Moki's.
http://teamaeroscale.com
It takes up a little more room, so you need to account for that. Here is a picture of it.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 03-04-2015 at 12:25 PM.
03-21-2015, 11:32 PM
#750
I have been able to get a lot of work done on my t-bolt. I am planning to NOT cut any service hatch. I plan to use the two air vent aft of the fuse for air in and fuel in. Since I am using a powerbox royal srs, I will use the mag sensor switch to power up the model. I was wondering if I can cut out a hatch behind the pilot head rest for the screen and the main powerbox switch? This can be covered with some "removable" scale detail when the cockpit is being built. I have not started work on the attaching the canopy yet, only cut them out. I reckon getting them to align correctly on the fuse will be a challenge. I plan to use rails to guide them...not sure if they will be radio controlled... but if I can ensure a smooth motion, then why not. I also got the carf 4 bladed prop...
Still not sure about the colour scheme yet.. but snafu or dallas blonde are being examined. Does anyone use a header tank? Like a UAT or something? Since I come from jets, I am rather uncomfortable not having a header tank here.
Just blabbering I guess.. very excited about this project.
Still not sure about the colour scheme yet.. but snafu or dallas blonde are being examined. Does anyone use a header tank? Like a UAT or something? Since I come from jets, I am rather uncomfortable not having a header tank here.
Just blabbering I guess.. very excited about this project.