CARF-Models P-47 Thunderbolt
07-15-2016, 06:54 PM
#828
[QUOTE=mujenpwr;12235297]Is everybody using the stock flap and aileron metal clevis linkage for their setup? Or changing to ball links ?
Thx
Joe M[/QUOTE
i used all of the linkages that came in the kit. The only thing i changed was i used a ball link on the servo arm for the flaps. I ended up using a Hanger9 Aluminum arm also.
Thx
Joe M[/QUOTE
i used all of the linkages that came in the kit. The only thing i changed was i used a ball link on the servo arm for the flaps. I ended up using a Hanger9 Aluminum arm also.
Last edited by Greg Wright; 07-15-2016 at 07:00 PM.
09-22-2016, 11:11 PM
#830
Hi, 15-20 flights now and the aileron hinges is getting sloppy....Seems like the phenol horn holes are getting bigger. Anyone else?
Flanged bearing was my first thought but not enough material enoug. Brass tube glued in? Any suggestions?
Another flight from Westwings, southern part of norway
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8p2XPKnG1EQ
Flanged bearing was my first thought but not enough material enoug. Brass tube glued in? Any suggestions?
Another flight from Westwings, southern part of norway
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8p2XPKnG1EQ
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frankyjg2012 (05-19-2020)
09-23-2016, 03:40 AM
#832
But if i was to change the arms on the 3 main controls i would use the H9 1.5 aluminum arms and i would cut them down and use the inner most hole so i didn't loose any resolution or torque out of the servo.
Last edited by Greg Wright; 09-23-2016 at 03:56 AM.
09-23-2016, 08:30 AM
#833
I was thinking brass tube with 3mm inner and 4mm outer diameter but I don`t know what is best.
09-24-2016, 12:36 AM
#836
Hi, 15-20 flights now and the aileron hinges is getting sloppy....Seems like the phenol horn holes are getting bigger. Anyone else?
Flanged bearing was my first thought but not enough material enoug. Brass tube glued in? Any suggestions?
Another flight from Westwings, southern part of norway
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8p2XPKnG1EQ
Flanged bearing was my first thought but not enough material enoug. Brass tube glued in? Any suggestions?
Another flight from Westwings, southern part of norway
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8p2XPKnG1EQ
09-24-2016, 09:49 AM
#837
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Thanks for the info Greg!!!
let us know how the bushings work
Joe M
let us know how the bushings work
Joe M
I have JR 8911's on everything and i used the Heavy duty 1" Nylon arms on the Ailerons,elevator & rudder and have had zero issues. I also used the H9 1.5" aluminum arms for the flaps.
But if i was to change the arms on the 3 main controls i would use the H9 1.5 aluminum arms and i would cut them down and use the inner most hole so i didn't loose any resolution or torque out of the servo.
But if i was to change the arms on the 3 main controls i would use the H9 1.5 aluminum arms and i would cut them down and use the inner most hole so i didn't loose any resolution or torque out of the servo.
09-24-2016, 04:45 PM
#838
I will once i have them installed and get a few flights on them. If i come up with any other ideas for bushings i'll let you know. I just don't see how the CA will really cure this issue.
I know the holes on mine are pretty sloppy as is. The bushings should give them some more shock absorption.
I know the holes on mine are pretty sloppy as is. The bushings should give them some more shock absorption.
11-13-2016, 06:19 AM
#839
Well after doing some inspections of the hinges and the Aluminum pins. It was found that most of the slop was from the Aluminum wearing out on the pins them selfs and not the Phenolic hinges.
I have replaced the pins with new ones and the slop was removed to a minimum of what it was.
I have replaced the pins with new ones and the slop was removed to a minimum of what it was.
11-17-2016, 05:06 PM
#840
Hey, Guys. I am trying to install the aileron servos and made the tool, but the driver that seems like it would work on the screw does not when at the slight off angel required when working through the flap. So, before i cut up a bunch of screw drivers, could you tell me which kind or number to use. Thanks,
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frankyjg2012 (05-19-2020)
11-18-2016, 03:16 PM
#842
Two questions, Greg. Did you thin CA the holes after threading the screws in? Like it wasn't hard enough getting them in the first time. Also, in the pneumatic kit there is one length of 4mm tubing. does that go between the air cylinder and the nipple on the strut? Does the 4mm tubing go anywhere else. Your bird looked and flew great at the Memorial . Thanks, Dave
12-09-2016, 03:35 AM
#843
Hi Greg maybe abit late if you haven't already done it the phenolics do need replacing with nylon bushings I am just buiding my P47 now almost finished up to the paintwork stage I am using a Moki 250 7 cylinder in her paint is the Mexican scheme the vibration with the 7 cylinder is virtually 0 compared to the 5 but the 5 has more of a growl I hope all the p47s I have been following on this post are still going strong congrtulations to everyone for sharing your build information fantastic many thanks may the p47 brotherhood live on cheerz guyz
12-10-2016, 05:11 AM
#844
Two questions, Greg. Did you thin CA the holes after threading the screws in? Like it wasn't hard enough getting them in the first time. Also, in the pneumatic kit there is one length of 4mm tubing. does that go between the air cylinder and the nipple on the strut? Does the 4mm tubing go anywhere else. Your bird looked and flew great at the Memorial . Thanks, Dave
I did add CA to the holes but i did that before installing the screws. I don't remember off the top of my head right now, but i think i also add a piece of good quality aircraft plywood as a backer to the servo opening on either end of the servo pocket. This was just so i knew i had some good quality material for the screws to bite into. I didn't get the pneumatic kit for mine i just ordered the gear alone as i have enough of the air tanks and airhose in my shop. So i just hooked it all up with what i have. I also made sure i safety wired each connection on the gear for a non leaking system.
12-10-2016, 05:12 AM
#845
Hi Greg maybe abit late if you haven't already done it the phenolics do need replacing with nylon bushings I am just buiding my P47 now almost finished up to the paintwork stage I am using a Moki 250 7 cylinder in her paint is the Mexican scheme the vibration with the 7 cylinder is virtually 0 compared to the 5 but the 5 has more of a growl I hope all the p47s I have been following on this post are still going strong congrtulations to everyone for sharing your build information fantastic many thanks may the p47 brotherhood live on cheerz guyz
12-10-2016, 05:51 PM
#846
According to the brochure, the engine mounting math is already done and just a bolt in for the M-250, but I have read otherwise. Is the best way to mount it to the dome and then slide it around on the firewall until centered, or mount the dome and then slide it around on the dome to center (not much adjustment this way), but factoring in the math on the offset/thrust etc. and not knowing how much adjustment is needed. I was going to support the fuse vertically, put the cowl on and slide the engine around until centered. Also, the directions show a template made for the carburetor/choke opening then transferred to the dome to cut out. , but in another picture, it looks like the hole in the dome is cut out to match the whole in the laminated wood backing plate.I just don't see the need for the template. Am I wrong? Dave
12-10-2016, 07:11 PM
#847
According to the brochure, the engine mounting math is already done and just a bolt in for the M-250, but I have read otherwise. Is the best way to mount it to the dome and then slide it around on the firewall until centered, or mount the dome and then slide it around on the dome to center (not much adjustment this way), but factoring in the math on the offset/thrust etc. and not knowing how much adjustment is needed. I was going to support the fuse vertically, put the cowl on and slide the engine around until centered. Also, the directions show a template made for the carburetor/choke opening then transferred to the dome to cut out. , but in another picture, it looks like the hole in the dome is cut out to match the whole in the laminated wood backing plate.I just don't see the need for the template. Am I wrong? Dave
I just went by the book on the engine mounting and had no issues with it lining up in the cowl. I think the template is more for the three holes needed to mount the engine and the cutout for the carburetor.
12-10-2016, 08:19 PM
#848
That is good news. Did you use the UP3 valve for gear/door sequencing? Or best other method?
12-10-2016, 08:51 PM
#849
I used two systems with two BVM High flow valves with servos and two separate air tanks. One system is for the three gear alone and the second is for the doors. Then i used the sequencer in my DX 18 to sequence everything together.
My canopy is operated by a Firgelli actuator.
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frankyjg2012 (05-19-2020)
01-05-2017, 02:48 AM
#850
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Hi Guys,
I was wondering if anyone may be able to advise on the best way to attach the P47 aerial that is supplied by CARF? I am trying to work out a good way to be able to make the aerial removable when transporting the model. But still have the aerial stay in place when flying.
Any advice or photos would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
I was wondering if anyone may be able to advise on the best way to attach the P47 aerial that is supplied by CARF? I am trying to work out a good way to be able to make the aerial removable when transporting the model. But still have the aerial stay in place when flying.
Any advice or photos would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
