CARF-Models P-47 Thunderbolt
#851
My Feedback: (1)
Hi Guys,
I was wondering if anyone may be able to advise on the best way to attach the P47 aerial that is supplied by CARF? I am trying to work out a good way to be able to make the aerial removable when transporting the model. But still have the aerial stay in place when flying.
Any advice or photos would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
I was wondering if anyone may be able to advise on the best way to attach the P47 aerial that is supplied by CARF? I am trying to work out a good way to be able to make the aerial removable when transporting the model. But still have the aerial stay in place when flying.
Any advice or photos would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
Regards,
astro
#854
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Bellingham,
WA
Posts: 80
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desertrat65
On my Tomahawk Wilga I had the need for a number appendages and did not want these to get broken during transport.
What I came up with is to use nesting telescoping thin-wall aluminum tubes about 3/4 inch long - (you can get tube stock from hobby suppliers look for Midwest branded alum tubes but get the thin-walled ones)
in the bottom of each tube I epoxied a neodymium magnet (had to find/purchase a number of these 1/8 to 3/16 thick discs to find the perfect fit for the ID of the various sizes of tubes)
Make sure to have the mag polarity correct so they attract when you slip the smaller tube with mag in bottom into the outer tube with mag in bottom.
Note - do not slip these together until the outer one is mounted in wing/fuse and the inner one has your arial as you won't be able to pull them apart!
I used hysol to glue in the outer tube flush with the surface - when done, glue your arial into the smaller tube and this will slip into the fuse/wing mounted outer tube and connect to the magnet with a confident snap.
Its a boy/girl thing!
Very secure and easy to just pull out.
I also have used carbon tubes and this can work as well.
Hope this might work for you??
Joe
On my Tomahawk Wilga I had the need for a number appendages and did not want these to get broken during transport.
What I came up with is to use nesting telescoping thin-wall aluminum tubes about 3/4 inch long - (you can get tube stock from hobby suppliers look for Midwest branded alum tubes but get the thin-walled ones)
in the bottom of each tube I epoxied a neodymium magnet (had to find/purchase a number of these 1/8 to 3/16 thick discs to find the perfect fit for the ID of the various sizes of tubes)
Make sure to have the mag polarity correct so they attract when you slip the smaller tube with mag in bottom into the outer tube with mag in bottom.
Note - do not slip these together until the outer one is mounted in wing/fuse and the inner one has your arial as you won't be able to pull them apart!
I used hysol to glue in the outer tube flush with the surface - when done, glue your arial into the smaller tube and this will slip into the fuse/wing mounted outer tube and connect to the magnet with a confident snap.
Its a boy/girl thing!
Very secure and easy to just pull out.
I also have used carbon tubes and this can work as well.
Hope this might work for you??
Joe
Last edited by JK13; 01-07-2017 at 07:25 AM. Reason: ADD Pic
#857
My Feedback: (221)
CARF does not supply an antenna for the Corsair. We need to build our own. To make it removable this is what we do.
The antenna is sectioned. The brass tube has an outer and inner size. The outer, is drilled from the bottom and glued in BEFORE cutting the antenna apart. Then the inner is glued into the removable top section. This aligns the assembly perfectly. Then we install tiny earth magnets in both sections to hold them together. Bottom is glued it with Hysol. Never lost one, aligns perfectly, yet fairly simple.
The antenna is sectioned. The brass tube has an outer and inner size. The outer, is drilled from the bottom and glued in BEFORE cutting the antenna apart. Then the inner is glued into the removable top section. This aligns the assembly perfectly. Then we install tiny earth magnets in both sections to hold them together. Bottom is glued it with Hysol. Never lost one, aligns perfectly, yet fairly simple.
#859
Hello Guys,
Back into what will likely contend for the longest duration CARF P47 build in history. Started this project in another state over 5 years ago but I am back at it and could use some thoughts. I am at the point where I need to decide how to route the wires from the wings to the fuse. I feel like I am having to choose between several unatrractive options. I don;t want to route the wing wires forward as it not only makes them longer but also puts them up closer to the motor which I try to avoid. However routing the wires in the wing toward the trailing edge requires navigating the main spar and spar tube which I really don't want to modify. Saw a friend modify a spar on a Racing AT-6....well lets just say I tend not to modify spars
So I guess I'm wondering if someone has found a clever idea to route wires and air lines into the CARF other than at the leading edge like the instructions outlined.
Thanks!
Tom
Back into what will likely contend for the longest duration CARF P47 build in history. Started this project in another state over 5 years ago but I am back at it and could use some thoughts. I am at the point where I need to decide how to route the wires from the wings to the fuse. I feel like I am having to choose between several unatrractive options. I don;t want to route the wing wires forward as it not only makes them longer but also puts them up closer to the motor which I try to avoid. However routing the wires in the wing toward the trailing edge requires navigating the main spar and spar tube which I really don't want to modify. Saw a friend modify a spar on a Racing AT-6....well lets just say I tend not to modify spars
So I guess I'm wondering if someone has found a clever idea to route wires and air lines into the CARF other than at the leading edge like the instructions outlined.
Thanks!
Tom
#861
My recommendation would be to only buy the vacuum formed floor and walls from Dynamic balsa, and then get the cockpit kit from Aero-Cockpit. ( iflytailies.com resells these)
this is what i used on my cockpit
I made the backside of the panel with some styrene wires, servo wires and music wire.. I like the open look of some of the P47s with the hood removed or pulled back ..
Voy
this is what i used on my cockpit
I made the backside of the panel with some styrene wires, servo wires and music wire.. I like the open look of some of the P47s with the hood removed or pulled back ..
Voy
Thanks for all , i did not receive mine P-47 yet but which scale for Aero-cockpit 1/4 or 1/5 ?
Regards
Tanguy
Last edited by laverdure; 03-06-2017 at 12:25 PM.
#865
Wing Wiring Connectors
Hey Guys,
Been trying to come up with something for this P47's wing wiring harness. I wanted to use crimped vs solder connectors but I didn't want to have those pigtails of loose wires and connectors flopping around on my wings when they were being stored or being inserted into their wing bags. I have used the Ashlok connectors for sometime and have learned to trust them. I really like the locking feature; secure but easy to use. So I began thinking about somehow mounting the Ashlok connectors to the wings. Instead, I came up with an aluminum housing that sandwiches the female portion of the Ashlok connector and holds it in place. In between the connectors I drilled a hole for the single retract extension air line I need in each wing.
Anyway I like the way it turned out so I thought I'd share a couple of pics:
Been trying to come up with something for this P47's wing wiring harness. I wanted to use crimped vs solder connectors but I didn't want to have those pigtails of loose wires and connectors flopping around on my wings when they were being stored or being inserted into their wing bags. I have used the Ashlok connectors for sometime and have learned to trust them. I really like the locking feature; secure but easy to use. So I began thinking about somehow mounting the Ashlok connectors to the wings. Instead, I came up with an aluminum housing that sandwiches the female portion of the Ashlok connector and holds it in place. In between the connectors I drilled a hole for the single retract extension air line I need in each wing.
Anyway I like the way it turned out so I thought I'd share a couple of pics:
#866
My Feedback: (60)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Litchfield Park,
AZ
Posts: 7,674
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If there's enough interest to warrant it I might be persuaded to make up a cockpit in the correct scale for the CARF airplane. I currently am working on a 1/6th scale and, as much of it is 3d printed, it would be fairly simple to enlarge it. I'm swamped at the moment so it probably would not happen fast but I would be interested in finding out if the demand is there to make it worth the effort.
Here's the 1/6th scale Jug cockpit. Photos of the finished cockpit are that of the kit prototype as installed in a Top Flite model by Tony Lehrhaupt.
Here's the 1/6th scale Jug cockpit. Photos of the finished cockpit are that of the kit prototype as installed in a Top Flite model by Tony Lehrhaupt.
#869
My Feedback: (6)
If your gonna keep building these large planes. The Xicoy Digital balancer is a life saver and a back saver also.
[h=1][/h]Search
[h=2]Balancing equipment[/h]
[h=1][/h]Search
[h=2]Balancing equipment[/h]
- $23.00Angle sensor mounts
- $85.00CG Machine MIL spec case
- from $49.00Digital CG machine cones
- $399.00UAV Xicoy CG Machine
- $35.00Ultimate Jets plumb line
- $285.00Xicoy BlueTooth CG Machine gen 3
- $65.00Xicoy CG machine Bluetooth Module
- $499.00Xicoy CG Machine gen 3 Deluxe bundle
- $489.00Xicoy CG Machine gen 3 Deluxe bundle Bluetooth
- $96.00Xicoy Digital angle sensors
- $295.00Xicoy Digital CG Machine gen 3
Last edited by Greg Wright; 03-15-2017 at 04:21 AM.
#872
Hi Tanguy,
I also built a CARF P-47 and I took the cockpit 1:5 from Aerocockpit. It fits perfect in that plane. Many parts of my cockpit are 3d printed.
Have a look at the photos on my hp http://www.r2-team.de/bauberichte/ca...ack-baubericht
I also built a CARF P-47 and I took the cockpit 1:5 from Aerocockpit. It fits perfect in that plane. Many parts of my cockpit are 3d printed.
Have a look at the photos on my hp http://www.r2-team.de/bauberichte/ca...ack-baubericht
#873
Do you manufacture the parts for sale?
Hi Tanguy,
I also built a CARF P-47 and I took the cockpit 1:5 from Aerocockpit. It fits perfect in that plane. Many parts of my cockpit are 3d printed.
Have a look at the photos on my hp http://www.r2-team.de/bauberichte/ca...ack-baubericht
I also built a CARF P-47 and I took the cockpit 1:5 from Aerocockpit. It fits perfect in that plane. Many parts of my cockpit are 3d printed.
Have a look at the photos on my hp http://www.r2-team.de/bauberichte/ca...ack-baubericht
#875
Hi guys,
thank you very much for your interest. First I have to say that I am only a private person and not a seller.
But I can help you who is interested I can send a list with all parts in it .
thank you very much for your interest. First I have to say that I am only a private person and not a seller.
But I can help you who is interested I can send a list with all parts in it .