ESM FW D-9
#1751
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: College Park,
MD
Posts: 811
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: ESM FW D-9
Looking Good!
Lusting doesn't quite describe it for me. I just got the cowl installed and am dying to fly her. But it's 90 degrees and 15MPH+ winds all weekend, with a "very high" UV index. Can you say sunscreen? [:@]
I just hope the wind isn't at a 90 to the runway like it usually is whenever I am there.
Lusting doesn't quite describe it for me. I just got the cowl installed and am dying to fly her. But it's 90 degrees and 15MPH+ winds all weekend, with a "very high" UV index. Can you say sunscreen? [:@]
I just hope the wind isn't at a 90 to the runway like it usually is whenever I am there.
#1752
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: College Park,
MD
Posts: 811
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: ESM FW D-9
Got in a couple good flights this evening between the rain drops. At least it was cool, if you can call 83 degrees and 82% humidity cool.
The last flight I had some trouble with the motor stalling at partial throttle. It idled fine, but would die if I advanced the throttle too slowly. It felt like the motor was running a little rich. This was my second flight with the cowl on. I wonder if having the cowl on did that because of air constriction or maybe the heat which built up during the first flight. The max temperature reading I got was a little over 200F. But most of the readings were in the 150F-160F range. And the motor didn't seem to be overheating. I didn't tweak the needles at all because by the end of the second flight, the rain drops were starting to come down and the lighting was getting closer. [:@]
http://terpconnect.umd.edu/~markt/FW-190-D9_Idle.mov
The last flight I had some trouble with the motor stalling at partial throttle. It idled fine, but would die if I advanced the throttle too slowly. It felt like the motor was running a little rich. This was my second flight with the cowl on. I wonder if having the cowl on did that because of air constriction or maybe the heat which built up during the first flight. The max temperature reading I got was a little over 200F. But most of the readings were in the 150F-160F range. And the motor didn't seem to be overheating. I didn't tweak the needles at all because by the end of the second flight, the rain drops were starting to come down and the lighting was getting closer. [:@]
http://terpconnect.umd.edu/~markt/FW-190-D9_Idle.mov
#1755
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: College Park,
MD
Posts: 811
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: ESM FW D-9
ORIGINAL: quist
Anyone make a hatch out of the gun hood?
Anyone make a hatch out of the gun hood?
#1757
RE: ESM FW D-9
Because getting a spinner thats 3 blade is very difficult for this plane as its a special shape design. I have a 3 blade from Gene Barton, but had to have the prop slots cut out. Currently, at least here in the US, the distributors for the ESM planes are out of stock for most of the 3 blade spinners from ESM and have been for quite some time. The only one available is pure aluminum(not painted) for 3 blade.Yep cant paint one for sure though.
The biggest reason why you dont see many or any with 3 blades is the cost of the prop for this size plane. Close to a $100(or 85 euros). Not all all cheap to replace unlike a 2 blade that are easy to find and costs maybe $20.
Additionally, there is a slight performance loss using a 3 blade...and most people here in the thread are using gas motors. A scale prop size for this D9 would be a 26-28" diameter prop and no 55cc gas motor is going to spin that size 3 blade very well at all.
However, I did put use 3 blades on my ESM do-335, but its electric and the motors have the torque to do so
The biggest reason why you dont see many or any with 3 blades is the cost of the prop for this size plane. Close to a $100(or 85 euros). Not all all cheap to replace unlike a 2 blade that are easy to find and costs maybe $20.
Additionally, there is a slight performance loss using a 3 blade...and most people here in the thread are using gas motors. A scale prop size for this D9 would be a 26-28" diameter prop and no 55cc gas motor is going to spin that size 3 blade very well at all.
However, I did put use 3 blades on my ESM do-335, but its electric and the motors have the torque to do so
#1759
RE: ESM FW D-9
ORIGINAL: kahloq
Because getting a spinner thats 3 blade is very difficult for this plane as its a special shape design. I have a 3 blade from Gene Barton, but had to have the prop slots cut out. Currently, at least here in the US, the distributors for the ESM planes are out of stock for most of the 3 blade spinners from ESM and have been for quite some time. The only one available is pure aluminum(not painted) for 3 blade.Yep cant paint one for sure though.
The biggest reason why you dont see many or any with 3 blades is the cost of the prop for this size plane. Close to a $100(or 85 euros). Not all all cheap to replace unlike a 2 blade that are easy to find and costs maybe $20.
Additionally, there is a slight performance loss using a 3 blade...and most people here in the thread are using gas motors. A scale prop size for this D9 would be a 26-28'' diameter prop and no 55cc gas motor is going to spin that size 3 blade very well at all.
However, I did put use 3 blades on my ESM do-335, but its electric and the motors have the torque to do so
Because getting a spinner thats 3 blade is very difficult for this plane as its a special shape design. I have a 3 blade from Gene Barton, but had to have the prop slots cut out. Currently, at least here in the US, the distributors for the ESM planes are out of stock for most of the 3 blade spinners from ESM and have been for quite some time. The only one available is pure aluminum(not painted) for 3 blade.Yep cant paint one for sure though.
The biggest reason why you dont see many or any with 3 blades is the cost of the prop for this size plane. Close to a $100(or 85 euros). Not all all cheap to replace unlike a 2 blade that are easy to find and costs maybe $20.
Additionally, there is a slight performance loss using a 3 blade...and most people here in the thread are using gas motors. A scale prop size for this D9 would be a 26-28'' diameter prop and no 55cc gas motor is going to spin that size 3 blade very well at all.
However, I did put use 3 blades on my ESM do-335, but its electric and the motors have the torque to do so
thats my esm bf 109 50cc on a scale fly event with fiala 24x8 3blade on it and EME 60cc motor turning it at about 6300 r.p.m. , plane isnt a rocket with that prop i know(it flies much more better with 22x8 3blade) but its more scale look like and it flies scale like too. i had to cut a small portion of the cowling near the exhaust though but thats a compromise. i dont know about esm fw 190 d9 cowling dimensions (thats one of my future projects-thats why i am asking) relatively to bf 109 g but i guess gustav probably has a little smaller one.
#1760
RE: ESM FW D-9
I have an eme 55 I have yet to find a project for. Have wanted the ESM me-109G for some time. In my case, id probably run a 20x10 3 blade if I wanted the 3 blade look....but again, the prop size is not scale and one nose over and the prop is probably damaged. Ive got a decent number of warbirds that do have 3 blade props, but the cost of replacing a broken prop just sux.
The ESM D9 should be able to accommodate an eme 60 rather easily.
The ESM D9 should be able to accommodate an eme 60 rather easily.
#1761
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Brisbane, QLD, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 2,787
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
4 Posts
RE: ESM FW D-9
I've always planned on running a 3 blade prop on my Dora, but was disappointed when my fighteraces spinner arrived and it was impossible for me to use it as a 3 blade spinner so.... they boy's at work just finished making me this replacement
I have a set of Solo 22" FW shaped props, but no hub yet. I have a mate here who has offered to lend me his hub to try it out on the Dora, just have to take him up on it
I have yet to nose over the Dora, so I bet you it happens on the first flight with the solo prop on
Thunder is right, pretty much everyone has made the gun hood open. here are some pic's of mine.
Thanks
dave
I have a set of Solo 22" FW shaped props, but no hub yet. I have a mate here who has offered to lend me his hub to try it out on the Dora, just have to take him up on it
I have yet to nose over the Dora, so I bet you it happens on the first flight with the solo prop on
Thunder is right, pretty much everyone has made the gun hood open. here are some pic's of mine.
Thanks
dave
#1763
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: College Park,
MD
Posts: 811
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: ESM FW D-9
I had another couple awesome flights this evening. I figured out what was causing the engine problems. It was definitely overheating. Even just idling for a few minutes before flying in 85 degree F temperatures caused it to bog down at mid throttle. So I flew without the cowl on and it flew great. I've got to figure out how to get more air through the cowl. I'll start out with opening up a hole in the bottom of the cowl and trying to open up the upper cowl flaps more. A baffle on the top might help as well as it seems that the mufflers on the bottom are contributing quite a bit to the heat buildup inside the cowl.
Anyone else with the XYZ 53cc Twin having overheating problems?
Anyone else with the XYZ 53cc Twin having overheating problems?
#1764
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Brisbane, QLD, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 2,787
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
4 Posts
RE: ESM FW D-9
No mate sorry. mine has been fine what spinner are you running?
For proper cooling to occur, you need a ratio of 3:1 for airflow. so that is 3 times the air out area for 1 of air in. this is because if you to only have 1:1, Air expands as it is heated by the engine, so it now takes up more volume (constant pressure in cowl) and so needs more area to exit the cowl. with 1:1 there is the same amount of new air coming in as going out so the cowl cannot effectively vent all the heated air. Most guys with moki's and other heat sensitive engines baffle them, that is they restrict the amount of air going into the cowl, and then with the baffling force the air coming in to flow over the cylinders for maximum cooling. The reason I ask about the spinner is because the one I use currently is rather large and takes up a lot of the cooling air entry area on the cowl opening. The fighteraces spinner that I will be moving to is slightly larger again, so these are effectively reducing the air inlet = baffling.
Now that I think about it I have no additional outlet holes cut into my cowl other than the gap around the perimeter of the cowl were it meets the fuse. When I was building my Dora I took extra care to make sure that this was as wide open as I could get it. this has proven to be enough with the dora and the XYZ.
I actually got 2 flights in yesterday myself on the dora and the engine was as strong as it's ever been,but that it probably because the temp's here have started to drop off. it was about 20 degrees C yesterday. Most times I have flown the dora the temps have been in the 35 odd degrees C
Hope that helps..
Thanks
dave
For proper cooling to occur, you need a ratio of 3:1 for airflow. so that is 3 times the air out area for 1 of air in. this is because if you to only have 1:1, Air expands as it is heated by the engine, so it now takes up more volume (constant pressure in cowl) and so needs more area to exit the cowl. with 1:1 there is the same amount of new air coming in as going out so the cowl cannot effectively vent all the heated air. Most guys with moki's and other heat sensitive engines baffle them, that is they restrict the amount of air going into the cowl, and then with the baffling force the air coming in to flow over the cylinders for maximum cooling. The reason I ask about the spinner is because the one I use currently is rather large and takes up a lot of the cooling air entry area on the cowl opening. The fighteraces spinner that I will be moving to is slightly larger again, so these are effectively reducing the air inlet = baffling.
Now that I think about it I have no additional outlet holes cut into my cowl other than the gap around the perimeter of the cowl were it meets the fuse. When I was building my Dora I took extra care to make sure that this was as wide open as I could get it. this has proven to be enough with the dora and the XYZ.
I actually got 2 flights in yesterday myself on the dora and the engine was as strong as it's ever been,but that it probably because the temp's here have started to drop off. it was about 20 degrees C yesterday. Most times I have flown the dora the temps have been in the 35 odd degrees C
Hope that helps..
Thanks
dave
#1765
RE: ESM FW D-9
Same engine as you. I baffled the front lower half of the engine opening. I also cut an opening in the bottom where the exhausts come out, larger than the exhausts. I also opened up a little at the back of the cylinders just enough so the cowl still covers it in the back. A friend with a temp gun before the baffling had me at 220 on the left cylinder and 190 on the right. After baffling they were both around the 180-190 after flight and taxiing off the runway.
#1766
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: College Park,
MD
Posts: 811
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: ESM FW D-9
Dave,
Today I measured nearly 230F on one cylinder, and that was only after a few minutes of idling in the 85F degree heat. The spinner I'm using is 4-1/2", and the cowl opening is 5-3/8". Doing the math that means the inlet area is currently 6.78 square inches. Given that the air outlet with the cowl on might not even be that large, I've got some cutting and baffling to do.
Today I measured nearly 230F on one cylinder, and that was only after a few minutes of idling in the 85F degree heat. The spinner I'm using is 4-1/2", and the cowl opening is 5-3/8". Doing the math that means the inlet area is currently 6.78 square inches. Given that the air outlet with the cowl on might not even be that large, I've got some cutting and baffling to do.
#1767
My Feedback: (6)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: san antonio, TX
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: ESM FW D-9
I was talking to a guy here the other day and he was complaining about the xyz engines. But it seems that there are at least three on this build thread that are using it and flying successfully with it.
I like it because it should have the smoother running characteristics of a twin and also fits within the cowl..Is there a predominate opinion about which version of the xyz 53 twin to get? ( I think one has a different ignition.) Thanks for your suggestions.
corsair 183
I like it because it should have the smoother running characteristics of a twin and also fits within the cowl..Is there a predominate opinion about which version of the xyz 53 twin to get? ( I think one has a different ignition.) Thanks for your suggestions.
corsair 183
#1768
RE: ESM FW D-9
You know...you guys COULD use these to add more exit way airflow......
http://www.taildraggerrc.com/giant-scale-hardware.html
http://www.taildraggerrc.com/giant-scale-hardware.html
#1769
RE: ESM FW D-9
Now you're alking Kahlog. THose look nice. Thanks for the link.
As far as the XYZ engine I am not sure about which version I have. I bought mine in January this year. Runs great, have had no issues to date. And I use a 22x10 Xoar prop on it with no problems.
As far as the XYZ engine I am not sure about which version I have. I bought mine in January this year. Runs great, have had no issues to date. And I use a 22x10 Xoar prop on it with no problems.
#1770
My Feedback: (6)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: san antonio, TX
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: ESM FW D-9
Well, it looks like the Hobby King is now 326.00 for the 53 cc twin xyz w/ electronic ignition and octopus is 379.00 for the same engine. I know there was someone advising to buy through octopus instead of HK. Don't remember why. Anyone out there that would like to comment?
Gleichfalls,
Corsair 183
Gleichfalls,
Corsair 183
#1772
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: College Park,
MD
Posts: 811
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: ESM FW D-9
Well, the good news is I solved my overheating problems by baffling the top 1/3rd, opening up the cowl flaps a bit, and cutting some larger holes in the bottom of the cowl. I flew first for about 7 minutes and when I landed, the motor was at 180F for the right cylinder, and 200F for the left cylinder in 85 degree temps. Man, this motor is smooth. It purrs like the cat who swallowed the canary.
The bad news is that I had such a good time flying it that I ran it out of fuel right when I was going around for another landing attempt with the gear down and flaps deployed. The motor cut out just as I was turning over the end of the runway to make the go-around. My brain froze, and even though I was telling myself flaps, gear, flaps, gear, I only had the presence of mind to raise the flaps before the model went out of sight below the tall grass. I don't think the motor could have cut out at a worse time. Argh!!!
The model came down flat, as I didn't have much altitude anyways. My club's field is on a slight rise, and the model went down the side which has a slight drop of maybe 6 feet. Both gear ripped out, and one wing was demolished. The other wing is repairable, but since it's a one piece wing when assembled, I'm not going to bother trying to save the one wing and just replace both. The gear still work OK, but the scissors are mangled, so I'm going to replace the struts as well. I haven't run the motor yet, but it still turns over like it used to. The doesn't appear to be any run out on the spinner or motor shaft, so I'm crossing my fingers that the twirly end of the model is OK. I was lucky in that the ground was still soft from the heavy rain the night before. []
I thought I had enough fuel for about 15 minutes of tooling around, and had flown three 10 minute flights already, but as it turns out that if you throw in a few high speed low passes, immelmans, loops and Cuban 8s, the fuel is bingo at 9 minutes, and I was at the 10 minute mark. Ouch. Hard lesson learned. The pisser is that I could have easily landed that pass had I known fuel was that low. Just one of those things, I guess. [:@]
At any rate, it's an easy, if costly, fix.
Corsair 183, I bought my XYZ 53cc from Octopus RC. It arrived in about 10 days. I think they do a little extra tweaking, as they include better mufflers and spark plugs. Plus, mine came with the proper timing from them. It comes with the same ignition as the one from Hobby King that I can tell. It seems to work fine. Mine spins a Vess Aero 22B (~10 pitch) at 6800 RPM. That's pretty average for these motors from what I can tell.
The bad news is that I had such a good time flying it that I ran it out of fuel right when I was going around for another landing attempt with the gear down and flaps deployed. The motor cut out just as I was turning over the end of the runway to make the go-around. My brain froze, and even though I was telling myself flaps, gear, flaps, gear, I only had the presence of mind to raise the flaps before the model went out of sight below the tall grass. I don't think the motor could have cut out at a worse time. Argh!!!
The model came down flat, as I didn't have much altitude anyways. My club's field is on a slight rise, and the model went down the side which has a slight drop of maybe 6 feet. Both gear ripped out, and one wing was demolished. The other wing is repairable, but since it's a one piece wing when assembled, I'm not going to bother trying to save the one wing and just replace both. The gear still work OK, but the scissors are mangled, so I'm going to replace the struts as well. I haven't run the motor yet, but it still turns over like it used to. The doesn't appear to be any run out on the spinner or motor shaft, so I'm crossing my fingers that the twirly end of the model is OK. I was lucky in that the ground was still soft from the heavy rain the night before. []
I thought I had enough fuel for about 15 minutes of tooling around, and had flown three 10 minute flights already, but as it turns out that if you throw in a few high speed low passes, immelmans, loops and Cuban 8s, the fuel is bingo at 9 minutes, and I was at the 10 minute mark. Ouch. Hard lesson learned. The pisser is that I could have easily landed that pass had I known fuel was that low. Just one of those things, I guess. [:@]
At any rate, it's an easy, if costly, fix.
Corsair 183, I bought my XYZ 53cc from Octopus RC. It arrived in about 10 days. I think they do a little extra tweaking, as they include better mufflers and spark plugs. Plus, mine came with the proper timing from them. It comes with the same ignition as the one from Hobby King that I can tell. It seems to work fine. Mine spins a Vess Aero 22B (~10 pitch) at 6800 RPM. That's pretty average for these motors from what I can tell.
#1773
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: BLENHEIM Malbourough, NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 276
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: ESM FW D-9
Ive been buying from HK and no probs what so ever XYZ twin 48flights again no issues however i did make a few mods to the way the cowl is fixed thought the lump of wood looked like a toilet seat so changed it to alloy fingers and held on with cao bolts 3 mm
#1775
RE: ESM FW D-9
Ouch, at least TBM provides replacement parts! I did not use the stock fuel tank. I installed a 32 oz tank. I can fly easily 10 min and have at least half a tank left. I am paranoid about dead sticking warbirds.