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Old 01-16-2015, 01:28 PM
  #2926  
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Hey Forces,

The SiSt if built light comes in at 27ish lbs at it's lightest and over 30 easily if build more fully.... You'll find some reports of lighter weights but when reweighed and balanced they all seen to end up at 27ish lbs. Siera Gear, full Aeroscale cockpit, cigar drop tank, sliding canopy, scale detailing, and on and on... It all adds up. Fliteskin makes a lightweight control surface kit to remove weight from the tail as 4-5oz from the tail means a lb from the nose. Even the SiSt D9s take some searching to find currently.

I have been collecting parts for my SiSt since I got shot down trying to get an ESM. After lots of research it seemed both planes could get to 27lbs. The ESM went up to and the SiSt when down to that weight range. I'm going with an OS 320 FF which will go directly to Ray English once I receive it. Hopefully later next week.

Joe
Old 01-16-2015, 02:17 PM
  #2927  
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ZROOSTER: cool, thanks for the service! I did 8 years as an Air Traffic Controller, then 10 as a Range Control Officer at the Barry Goldwater Bombing Ranges on civilian contract. Loved every minute of it. What did you fly? Re telemetry, my bud, an electrical engineer that has done F-22 and autoland system stuff, has telemetry on his Habu jet. Not very expensive and very impressive. Got to love R/C! A great hobby and always something new. I have an ESM P-39 and a Hacker 60 5,000 mah set up still on the board....you could say I'm stuck in mud. I got the version II of their electric gear and I'm just not happy with it. I now there Serria's out there, but they would cost way more than the plane. Oh well. Enjoy & have fun driving the "Big One!" wallace.tharp
Old 01-16-2015, 02:49 PM
  #2928  
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For the cost of the SisT, you could just get the built Meister scale. With the upheaval in the ARF world now, it would seem we are relegated to building what we want again.
Old 01-16-2015, 05:43 PM
  #2929  
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Originally Posted by vertical grimmace
For the cost of the SisT, you could just get the built Meister scale. With the upheaval in the ARF world now, it would seem we are relegated to building what we want again.
VG, there's one for now: http://www.magnumrc.com/Top-RC-81-Mk...ite_p_309.html

been on the phone with Gus who runs Magnum for the last 2 days. He says he'll be shipping the Spit in Early March, next will be an A6M5 this summer, and aircraft von Das Vaterland will be coming in the next year or two. I ordered the Spit (MK IX) for $700 also ordered the Century Jets Retracts. Bad news is the XYZ won't fit in the spit...I'll have to save it for another project...hopefully a nice big Dora...

Last edited by zrooster; 01-16-2015 at 05:58 PM.
Old 01-16-2015, 05:47 PM
  #2930  
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Originally Posted by wallace.tharp
ZROOSTER: cool, thanks for the service! I did 8 years as an Air Traffic Controller, then 10 as a Range Control Officer at the Barry Goldwater Bombing Ranges on civilian contract. Loved every minute of it. What did you fly? Re telemetry, my bud, an electrical engineer that has done F-22 and autoland system stuff, has telemetry on his Habu jet. Not very expensive and very impressive. Got to love R/C! A great hobby and always something new. I have an ESM P-39 and a Hacker 60 5,000 mah set up still on the board....you could say I'm stuck in mud. I got the version II of their electric gear and I'm just not happy with it. I now there Serria's out there, but they would cost way more than the plane. Oh well. Enjoy & have fun driving the "Big One!" wallace.tharp
Wallace, it's been my pleasure. Were you an AD air traffic controller? If so, thank you for your service. I flew the C-17 and U-28. Good luck with the Airacobra. Always liked that plane...saw my first one in Harlingen, TX at the Annual CAF show (early 80s). My Dad was helping maintain an SNJ during that time, so we went nearly every year for a while!

Last edited by zrooster; 01-16-2015 at 05:57 PM.
Old 01-17-2015, 10:32 AM
  #2931  
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ZROOSTER, If I talked to you it would have been on the Barry Godwater Bombing Ranges near Luke AFB/ Gila Bend AFAF.I retired as an RCO a year ago Dec. We had C-17s doing some missions/tests flying formation one time abut 2 years back. Primary gig was controlling F-16s, A-10, and some F-18s and Harriers out of Yuma and El Centro. Fun stuff. I miss it. My USAF was Veit Nam era, Korat, Thailand, F4s. Good luck with your project. I'll try to get motivate on my P-39. Another guy near me, "Thud" was working on one. wallace.tharp
Old 01-17-2015, 12:30 PM
  #2932  
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Here is another option for an FW 190 D. I forgot, my old buddy Kahloq had one and stacked it up on the first flight due to poor engine tuning or something. This was the offering that KMP had many moons ago I believe. It mat not be perfectly shaped, but you may find it suitable.

http://fuyuanrc.com/detail.asp?id=18013
Old 01-17-2015, 06:35 PM
  #2933  
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Originally Posted by vertical grimmace
Here is another option for an FW 190 D. I forgot, my old buddy Kahloq had one and stacked it up on the first flight due to poor engine tuning or something. This was the offering that KMP had many moons ago I believe. It mat not be perfectly shaped, but you may find it suitable.

http://fuyuanrc.com/detail.asp?id=18013
I have this FW-190... It's not bad, but it's not that good either... I have been pecking away at it for awhile now...
Old 01-17-2015, 07:34 PM
  #2934  
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Originally Posted by vertical grimmace
Here is another option for an FW 190 D. I forgot, my old buddy Kahloq had one and stacked it up on the first flight due to poor engine tuning or something. This was the offering that KMP had many moons ago I believe. It mat not be perfectly shaped, but you may find it suitable.

http://fuyuanrc.com/detail.asp?id=18013
You are mistaken. The plane crashed on the 2nd flight, but yes, it was due to the engine quitting in flight. If you go back and read the report, the engine was tuned by two different "experienced gas engine pilots".

The pictures show how the plane was painted...not stock. The airframe was not the exact same as the one KMP tried to offer. It had plug in wings, not a one piece bolt on wing.
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Old 01-18-2015, 11:02 AM
  #2935  
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Was most like fuel tank set up. The primary cause for engine problems.
Old 01-19-2015, 08:12 AM
  #2936  
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The fuel tank setup was fine....it was emulated directly off of what you use...same gas tank and everything. The motor ran perfectly fine the first flight straight out of the box...however, it had a few pops or gurgles. The two that "tuned" it on its second flight, more then likely went to lean and the motor leaned out too much in the air when it got to operating temperature. Meaning the engine overheated and no amount of flipping the onboard starter on/off would have done any good.
That motor is now sitting on the front of a TF Spitfire...although said plane is not quite completed. Too many things going on and life events happening....
Old 01-19-2015, 08:13 AM
  #2937  
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VG.....Jan 28th is right around the corner.....after such.....3 months away from work.....might allow for some things to get done.

Last edited by Katniss; 01-19-2015 at 08:15 AM.
Old 01-19-2015, 08:31 AM
  #2938  
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Originally Posted by Katniss
The fuel tank setup was fine....it was emulated directly off of what you use...same gas tank and everything. The motor ran perfectly fine the first flight straight out of the box...however, it had a few pops or gurgles. The two that "tuned" it on its second flight, more then likely went to lean and the motor leaned out too much in the air when it got to operating temperature. Meaning the engine overheated and no amount of flipping the onboard starter on/off would have done any good.
That motor is now sitting on the front of a TF Spitfire...although said plane is not quite completed. Too many things going on and life events happening....
Yah, typically the 2 things that cause a gas engine to die are being set too lean, and overheating. Overheating is a primary cause. If they are set rich they are not likely to die. Unlike a glow engine, that really needs to be set optimally.

I just finished glassing the TA 152 wing. Now headed for the fuselage. Maybe by the time your back at it, I will have the thing flying. I think you will like it.
Old 01-19-2015, 08:52 AM
  #2939  
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Originally Posted by vertical grimmace
Here is another option for an FW 190 D. I forgot, my old buddy Kahloq had one and stacked it up on the first flight due to poor engine tuning or something. This was the offering that KMP had many moons ago I believe. It mat not be perfectly shaped, but you may find it suitable.

http://fuyuanrc.com/detail.asp?id=18013
Tempting if it's at the right price...link doesn't have the price...any idea what number we're talking?

Edit: found it for ~$700...not great at that price... I would want to do A LOT of cosmetic work to it....which, if it were cheaper, I thought it would be good to practice the skills on while I wait for a better one to come along, especially since I have a motor sitting around.

Incidentally, test stand should be ready to fire up today or tomorrow. Pretty pleased with my coke bottle fuel tank!

Last edited by zrooster; 01-19-2015 at 09:00 AM.
Old 01-19-2015, 11:05 AM
  #2940  
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Hey Guys,

Bob Holman will produce Fiberglass Fuses for his kit when you order his D9 kit. If a few people wanted D9's it would make his life much easier I'm sure as it's easier to order a few fuses at a time for him, I'm betting....

The Holman D9 gets great reviews for it's scale outline and is the smallest of the 1/5 D9's.

Of course FokkeRC is working hard to bring us another option....

By searching the Googles I found the Vantex D9 for $448 US... LINKY HERE


Joe
Old 01-19-2015, 11:13 AM
  #2941  
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Bob also offers a wood wing option for the D9. Which is preferable over foam for large models with retracts. The benefit here, if you go with the Holman, is that you will have a far and away superior product, in durability, and looks. The problem is, it will require more effort to get flying.
Old 01-19-2015, 11:51 AM
  #2942  
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Originally Posted by vertical grimmace
Bob also offers a wood wing option for the D9. Which is preferable over foam for large models with retracts. The benefit here, if you go with the Holman, is that you will have a far and away superior product, in durability, and looks. The problem is, it will require more effort to get flying.
Now THAT has my attention. When you say he offers wood wings, do you mean that the wings can be ordered preformed, or are you talking plans? I'm not totally devoid of ability, but I'm not looking to build the thing from the ground up. To clarify, your post in combination with Joe's has my attention.
Old 01-19-2015, 11:57 AM
  #2943  
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Originally Posted by Joespeeder
Hey Guys,

Bob Holman will produce Fiberglass Fuses for his kit when you order his D9 kit. If a few people wanted D9's it would make his life much easier I'm sure as it's easier to order a few fuses at a time for him, I'm betting....

The Holman D9 gets great reviews for it's scale outline and is the smallest of the 1/5 D9's.

Of course FokkeRC is working hard to bring us another option....

By searching the Googles I found the Vantex D9 for $448 US... LINKY HERE


Joe
The Vantex D9 isn't really a bad plane. Some out of scale issues with the cockpit area and air intake, but it's built well. I don't know if the ones sold through Hobbyease have plug in wings or not, but it was rather easy to transport. The Sierra gear was a drop in fit. It's also very easy to set up as electric if one wanted to with the built in gunhood hatch....or easy access to on/off switches and hiding fuel dots.
If I hadn't just sold the spare set of Sierra gear, it might be tempting to buy one.....but I've got too many other planes......
Old 01-19-2015, 12:23 PM
  #2944  
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Hey Katniss,

I think you're right on the money. I've looked at the build thread over on RCG's for the Vantex and with a little work on the areas you mentioned it looks very nice. LINKY
Just make sure all the arrows are red tipped and you'll have no troubles !!!

In looking at thread it looks like one plane had plug in wings and one had bolt on wings. However the Cowl, Canopy, Gun Hood and the rest look to be the same plane.

The thread died after Kahlog had his troubles. Too bad, It would have liked to see more info on those kits.

It does show what a great option the ESM is/was and hopefully the ESM line will come back or I'll start searching for YTInternational retailers that ship to the US when needed.

BTW, there is a Bob Homan D9 Kit for sale on RSCB for $400. Fiberglass Fuse, Foam Core wings, Drop tank, and other stiff. It wont last long.

Joe
Old 01-19-2015, 01:08 PM
  #2945  
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Originally Posted by zrooster
Now THAT has my attention. When you say he offers wood wings, do you mean that the wings can be ordered preformed, or are you talking plans? I'm not totally devoid of ability, but I'm not looking to build the thing from the ground up. To clarify, your post in combination with Joe's has my attention.

The Bob Holman design is what I would consider a kit. By that, the fuselage is fiberglass, needing to have bulkheads glued in etc. The horizontal stab and wings have to be built. I think stock, he offers a foam wing core, that requires sheeting. The Stab has foam cores as well. The wood wing would be built over plans in the conventional method we are all used to. Ribs, spars etc. Then fully sheeted with balsa. On these larger planes, it takes less effort to strengthen the wing for retracts when they are a built up structure. I have the foam wings and a built up wing kit for my Holman. I will not be getting around to that though until after I build the HE 100 D he cut for me. Bob Holman is great to deal with and his quality is top notch.
Old 01-21-2015, 05:25 PM
  #2946  
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So, "maidened" the test stand today. The XYZ wouldn't start (more on that in a minute), so slapped an EME 35 that I had waiting for another project on there and ran it to see how things would work. The fish scale showed a peak of 16lb which isnt bad considering I had the motor under propped, and it was brand new, right out of the box. The run stand definitely isn't a precision instrument, but good enough for government work.

On the XYZ, I flipped the thing until my shoulder was sore. I could get it to pop via the normal starting method. It would run a couple revolutions on starting fluid or a shot of fuel in the cylinder, but that's it. I put brand new ngk plugs in, set the timing (initially) at 28 deg BTDC (moved the sensor around after a while, no help). Fuel was dripping out of the carb after a few flips, but when I checked the plugs the right one (looking from the rear of the motor) was bone dry and the left one was just a little damp. Pulled the plugs and flipped it, and they were sparking...it seemed like the spark was a bit weak though... Running a 2500ma, 6v NIMH batt for ignition. So, any recommendations?
Old 01-21-2015, 05:52 PM
  #2947  
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Originally Posted by zrooster
So, "maidened" the test stand today. The XYZ wouldn't start (more on that in a minute), so slapped an EME 35 that I had waiting for another project on there and ran it to see how things would work. The fish scale showed a peak of 16lb which isnt bad considering I had the motor under propped, and it was brand new, right out of the box. The run stand definitely isn't a precision instrument, but good enough for government work.

On the XYZ, I flipped the thing until my shoulder was sore. I could get it to pop via the normal starting method. It would run a couple revolutions on starting fluid or a shot of fuel in the cylinder, but that's it. I put brand new ngk plugs in, set the timing (initially) at 28 deg BTDC (moved the sensor around after a while, no help). Fuel was dripping out of the carb after a few flips, but when I checked the plugs the right one (looking from the rear of the motor) was bone dry and the left one was just a little damp. Pulled the plugs and flipped it, and they were sparking...it seemed like the spark was a bit weak though... Running a 2500ma, 6v NIMH batt for ignition. So, any recommendations?

I would pull the carb and rebuild it. Check to make sure the float is not stuck, and that all of the holes in the gaskets are lined up. I had a new DLE 55 this summer that would not stay running. When I took the carb apart, the float was sticking. I put it back together, and it worked perfectly. It has run great ever since.
Old 01-21-2015, 05:54 PM
  #2948  
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Originally Posted by vertical grimmace
I would pull the carb and rebuild it. Check to make sure the float is not stuck, and that all of the holes in the gaskets are lined up. I had a new DLE 55 this summer that would not stay running. When I took the carb apart, the float was sticking. I put it back together, and it worked perfectly. It has run great ever since.
Roger, pulling carb!
Old 01-21-2015, 07:59 PM
  #2949  
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Originally Posted by zrooster
So, "maidened" the test stand today. The XYZ wouldn't start (more on that in a minute), so slapped an EME 35 that I had waiting for another project on there and ran it to see how things would work. The fish scale showed a peak of 16lb which isnt bad considering I had the motor under propped, and it was brand new, right out of the box. The run stand definitely isn't a precision instrument, but good enough for government work.

On the XYZ, I flipped the thing until my shoulder was sore. I could get it to pop via the normal starting method. It would run a couple revolutions on starting fluid or a shot of fuel in the cylinder, but that's it. I put brand new ngk plugs in, set the timing (initially) at 28 deg BTDC (moved the sensor around after a while, no help). Fuel was dripping out of the carb after a few flips, but when I checked the plugs the right one (looking from the rear of the motor) was bone dry and the left one was just a little damp. Pulled the plugs and flipped it, and they were sparking...it seemed like the spark was a bit weak though... Running a 2500ma, 6v NIMH batt for ignition. So, any recommendations?
Are you regulating the battery voltage to 6V? Because the electronic ignition modules don't tolerate much more than 6V and a 6V NIMH fully charged is more than 6.V.

Last edited by thunder21; 01-21-2015 at 08:03 PM.
Old 01-21-2015, 08:04 PM
  #2950  
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Originally Posted by thunder21
Are you regulating the battery voltage to 6V? Because the electronic ignition modules don't tolerate much more than 6V and a 6V NIMH fully charged is more than 6.V.
I am not...crap...should have thought of that, thanks!


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