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I Saw it! TF 60 Size Corsair ARF!!!!!

Old 10-07-2013, 12:10 PM
  #676  
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Most of the leaks I have found with my Robarts have been traced to the plastic"tees" and I have replaced them with metal replacements from HobbyKing.
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Old 10-07-2013, 12:55 PM
  #677  
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Scottrc: My Corsair is at 10.75 lb with Sierra gear and an OS 108 2s. It handles the weight just fine.

As for leaks: I use Robart tubing, valve, and air system. When looking for a leak I add a couple of air line extensions with quick connects so I can leave the wing off the fuse and see the air system tubing. I put a few drops of oil in the tubing generally using the quick connects between the fuse and wings and a couple of drops in the fill air line. Operate the retracts several times to spread the oil out, repressure it, then watch the oil bubbles move in the air system. They move towards the leak. If they move towards a pair of lines, clamp one line off. If the bubbles stop moving, the leak is in that branch.

Brian

Edit: do the leak check for gear up and gear down.
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Old 10-07-2013, 07:38 PM
  #678  
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Still ironing out all the wrinkles in the covering. Will post up when I start assembling, as I'm sure I'll have questions.

Last edited by Jr. Birdman; 10-08-2013 at 02:26 AM.
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Old 10-08-2013, 05:45 AM
  #679  
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Hi guys, thanks for all the input. Did a leakdown test and then soapy water test and found a hairline crack has developed on the right retract cylinder where the cap is joined. I could seal it but its probably better to just replace it, about $30 from Robart. Also will take the advice and get rid of the plastic T's and invest in the brass ones. Maybe it would be worth the investment.

Jr Birdman, keep us updated on your progress and we can talk you through the build.

Scott
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Old 10-08-2013, 08:10 AM
  #680  
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Sounds good Scott, thanks. First question/ hurdle are the flaps. I read a while back in the thread that the little "circuit board" that hold them together comes out at full deflection. How was that fixed? Maybe just setting them up not to pull out ???
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Old 10-08-2013, 09:27 AM
  #681  
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I simply set mine up with enough deflection to prevent the board from pulling out. It comes very close to the recommended range of movement anyhow. Only a few flights on mine but that seems to be plenty of flaps.

Although they work fine I'd be interested in what others may have done. Setting up the flaps has always been a challenge on gull wings. The kit used metal pins with many of the similar limitations (too long and they might bind, too short and not enough movement). Overall they appeared to be well done so I left them.


Originally Posted by scottrc View Post
Hi guys, thanks for all the input. Did a leakdown test and then soapy water test and found a hairline crack has developed on the right retract cylinder where the cap is joined. I could seal it but its probably better to just replace it, about $30 from Robart. Also will take the advice and get rid of the plastic T's and invest in the brass ones. Maybe it would be worth the investment.

Jr Birdman, keep us updated on your progress and we can talk you through the build.

Scott
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Old 10-08-2013, 01:47 PM
  #682  
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+1

Brian
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Old 10-09-2013, 05:08 AM
  #683  
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+2

When we first took the wings out of the box and started playing with the flaps, it was "oh my, these will not stay together". But, as was just noted, when you hook them up to the servo, the deflection is not enough for the plate to pull out of the flap.

I set mine up per the manual. I have not flown it yet but its the same deflection as my other Corsairs and should be fine.

The only problem that I had, and I think Corsair Jock as well, was that one of the flap hinges had accidently been epoxied in at the factory. We had to cut out and re-hinge the flap.
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Old 10-09-2013, 06:50 AM
  #684  
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Originally Posted by scottrc View Post
+2

When we first took the wings out of the box and started playing with the flaps, it was "oh my, these will not stay together". But, as was just noted, when you hook them up to the servo, the deflection is not enough for the plate to pull out of the flap.

I set mine up per the manual. I have not flown it yet but its the same deflection as my other Corsairs and should be fine.

The only problem that I had, and I think Corsair Jock as well, was that one of the flap hinges had accidently been epoxied in at the factory. We had to cut out and re-hinge the flap.
Scott,

Thank you for the reassurance. I'm still ironing out the plane, as I don't have too much free time these days, but only have the fuse and starboard wingtip left. Should be ready to assemble something by next week. : )
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Old 10-21-2013, 09:01 AM
  #685  
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gents,

I finally got the plane ironed out and I think it turned out alright. It looked like an elephants butt when I pulled it out of the box and now it's almost as smooth as a bowtox recipient's face (well.....kinda). I will start building this week, following the manual. Any tips before I get started?
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Old 10-21-2013, 01:11 PM
  #686  
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Sounds like you have checked all the parts for any defects. Read through the manual before starting and make sure you are familiar with the different steps, especially for retract and engine mounting. If you are using the stock landing gear, it will be smooth sailing and will build into a great flying plane.
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Old 10-21-2013, 07:34 PM
  #687  
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Thanks Scott,

I should be able to do something on the plane this coming weekend. The only reason I was able to finish ironing it out today, is because the little one is sick and I got to stay home from work with him. He slept the day away while I ironed.
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Old 10-29-2013, 03:12 PM
  #688  
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Gents,

Got to work on the plane yesterday. Not too much done, but did get the belly pan mounted, tank made and started on the flaps. Opened the plastic parts bag (cockpit and oil coolers) and noticed that things were cracked and chipped. I'll have to call and get replacements. Also noticed that the oil coolers fit miserably. Am I doing something wrong?
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Old 10-29-2013, 03:21 PM
  #689  
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Nope. My oil coolers fit poorly as well. Glued them but I still wasn't happy with the fit so I gently sanded the monocote and used some spackle to seal the edges nicely. Still haven't painted the spackle yet though.
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Old 10-29-2013, 03:23 PM
  #690  
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Does anyone know of a brand and color to match? Tried with a few brands but was off bad.
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Old 10-29-2013, 05:44 PM
  #691  
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Originally Posted by Jr. Birdman View Post
Gents,

Got to work on the plane yesterday. Not too much done, but did get the belly pan mounted, tank made and started on the flaps. Opened the plastic parts bag (cockpit and oil coolers) and noticed that things were cracked and chipped. I'll have to call and get replacements. Also noticed that the oil coolers fit miserably. Am I doing something wrong?
Bummer that you have to wait for replacements. But maybe its an opportunity in disguise. The oil coolers do take a lot of patience and care to fit them well. Maybe one of the cracked coolers could be used as a practice piece.
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Old 10-30-2013, 04:30 AM
  #692  
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Originally Posted by Jr. Birdman View Post
Gents,

Got to work on the plane yesterday. Not too much done, but did get the belly pan mounted, tank made and started on the flaps. Opened the plastic parts bag (cockpit and oil coolers) and noticed that things were cracked and chipped. I'll have to call and get replacements. Also noticed that the oil coolers fit miserably. Am I doing something wrong?
One of issues I do not like about ARFs is that most of the details are plastic parts that are added on after the plane has been finished. Mine would look like they were glued on afterthoughts.

Fit, sand, fit, sand................Over time you will get them to fit.
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Old 10-30-2013, 10:59 AM
  #693  
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Originally Posted by mike boxtall View Post
Does anyone know of a brand and color to match? Tried with a few brands but was off bad.
The closest colors Im aware of straight out of the bottle are Testors flat Sea Blue and Gray. I found this out just because I already had these on hand. Ive used the testors to paint all the screw heads so they blend in. Also painted my aileron linkages so they dont look so much like sore thumbs sticking out on the bottom of the wing. Of course the negative with the Testors stuff is that its an enamel and is not fuel proof. So anything that sees fuel residue is void of the paint. Luckily thats only a few spots on the bottom of the plane that few people see. Cheers.
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Old 11-01-2013, 05:56 PM
  #694  
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Very cool to hear that I can use sea blue for the button head hex screws. Starting the tail this weekend. Anything to watch besides beefing the tail mount???
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Old 11-02-2013, 10:47 AM
  #695  
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Busy as always... but I cant think of anything major to look out for that hasnt been covered.
1. Beef up the tail wheel mount.
2. If installing retracts, may need to make shims so they mate up square.
3. Instead of using rubbers to secure the fuel tank consider Velcro straps. They work much better.
4. ??
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Old 11-05-2013, 04:09 PM
  #696  
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Got a few min. to work on the Corsair last night. Installed the tail wheel gear and will beef up the mount with triangle stock tonight if I'm lucky.

Last edited by Jr. Birdman; 11-09-2013 at 03:49 PM.
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Old 11-07-2013, 04:34 PM
  #697  
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Finally got a hold of Top-Flight and the plastic parts bag is on the way! Anyone flying this weekend?

Last edited by Jr. Birdman; 11-10-2013 at 08:44 PM.
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Old 12-15-2013, 09:48 AM
  #698  
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Any more work done on your Corsair Jr. Birdman?

I have mine ready to test flight. Just need some good weather.
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Old 12-15-2013, 04:02 PM
  #699  
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Scott,

Happy to hear that you're ready to maiden. Found myself a bit discouraged a bit ago and haven't touched it since. Too busy this time of year to even look at the box. Hopefully I'll be able to get on it in a couple of weeks. Let me know how maiden goes when you get good weather.
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Old 12-16-2013, 05:49 AM
  #700  
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Thanks, I know the feeling with this being a hectic time of the year. Happy holidays!
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