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  1. #2726
    Gonzalo38's Avatar
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    Is anybody producing a detail set for the Corsair these days ? Is asked Graeme the other day and he told that he is not currently producing them.

  2. #2727
    ram3500-RCU's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gonzalo38 View Post
    Is anybody producing a detail set for the Corsair these days ? Is asked Graeme the other day and he told that he is not currently producing them.
    We currently have available a scale aluminum instrument panel with gauges, the wing gun port fairings, and will soon have the wing hinge covers, and gear door interiors.
    Cheers,
    Gary P. / use Steel Powder for ballast not lead. PM me for more information.

  3. #2728
    Gonzalo38's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ram3500-RCU View Post
    We currently have available a scale aluminum instrument panel with gauges, the wing gun port fairings, and will soon have the wing hinge covers, and gear door interiors.
    Thanks. I do have the Balsa USA cockpit...... but I would be interested on the other stuff. Do you have pictures available ?

  4. #2729
    ram3500-RCU's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gonzalo38 View Post
    If you install the Down and Lock landing gear conversion, how are the doors actuated ? Also electrically or those will still be run with air ?
    Currently, we use mechanical links on the tail doors, and a closed system air on the main doors. This is completely contained in the center section with no disconnects. Very reliable.
    Cheers,
    Gary P. / use Steel Powder for ballast not lead. PM me for more information.

  5. #2730
    ram3500-RCU's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gonzalo38 View Post
    Thanks. I do have the Balsa USA cockpit...... but I would be interested on the other stuff. Do you have pictures available ?
    Not familiar with the Balsa USA kit. I do use the Balsa Dynamics kit, but the instrument panel in that kit is not up to my standards. that is why I developed my own to augment that kit.
    Cheers,
    Gary P. / use Steel Powder for ballast not lead. PM me for more information.

  6. #2731
    DrScoles's Avatar
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    Gary, Getting ready to mount the moki with your standoffs. Can I trust the hole in the firewall that comparf places to be dead center? If I can overlay your template and center it, that would rock!

  7. #2732
    ram3500-RCU's Avatar
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    NO
    Cheers,
    Gary P. / use Steel Powder for ballast not lead. PM me for more information.

  8. #2733
    DrScoles's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ram3500-RCU View Post
    NO
    LOL, are you sure? ;-) that sucks, would be nice if they made it centered. Standoffs looks sharp nice!

  9. #2734
    ram3500-RCU's Avatar
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    Sorry for the one word answer. I did that from my phone and I have a hard time typing long answers from that. The hole in the center moves depending on how you glued the ply on. I use the mold seam lines to establish a cross hair on the firewall and use this as the starting point for measuring. The center of the template will be to the port side of center and slightly below the horizontal line. I can give you these dimensions if I haven't already. The reason it is not in the center is because of the thrust angle of the engine. 2.5 deg right and .05 deg of up means it must be moved off center in order for the prop to be centered in the cowl and this is important or you will have rockers poking threw.

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    Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 07-07-2014 at 04:46 PM.
    Cheers,
    Gary P. / use Steel Powder for ballast not lead. PM me for more information.

  10. #2735
    DrScoles's Avatar
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    Gary, finally got around to trying to mount the moki. I think the stand offs are too long. Here are some pics. How far out should the prop be? Its 35 mm from the back of the prop blade to the edge of the cowl. I'm thinking less than 10mm would be ideal. I looked at a bunch of my reference books, they all had the prop closer. Am I missing something? The stairs made the perfect place to try in the motor without having to hold it!
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  11. #2736

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    My standoffs are about half of yours (in lenght).

    Roberto

    Quote Originally Posted by DrScoles View Post
    Gary, finally got around to trying to mount the moki. I think the stand offs are too long. Here are some pics. How far out should the prop be? Its 35 mm from the back of the prop blade to the edge of the cowl. I'm thinking less than 10mm would be ideal. I looked at a bunch of my reference books, they all had the prop closer. Am I missing something? The stairs made the perfect place to try in the motor without having to hold it!
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  12. #2737
    ram3500-RCU's Avatar
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    A walk through the storage tent at War Birds over Delaware. Thanks to the encouragement from my buddy John, I finally made it this year. What a fine event.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TOZ6o_TbyYk&sns=em

    Unfortunately, we had an accident with his Corsair on Friday. Dino DiGorgio was flying her when for still undetermined reasons the Moki quit. She was coming down the run way fairly low for a high speed pass, gear up and clean. In a nano second Dino had her slowed down doing a series of quick S turns, set up, and did a perfect belly landing off the end of the runway. Unfortunately, the Corsair is one of the worst fighters for the belly landing due to the gull wing. She stuck, and I mean really stuck, in the ground. I don't think she slid 5 feet. tore all the gear doors off and broke her back right through the cockpit in the weakest spot on the CARF. Aside from the gear doors and some bent wing tubes the wings are OK. Dino kept her perfectly level. The fuse is repairable. Some carbon fiber in the mid section will be used. She will be better than before.

    Engine is being sent out for a complete going over. Don't ever want this to happen again. We found a loose plug in the ignition (could have happened in the landing), and I found a jug with very loose bolts, finger tight, with clear signs of leakage.
    Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 07-17-2014 at 03:58 AM.
    Cheers,
    Gary P. / use Steel Powder for ballast not lead. PM me for more information.

  13. #2738

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    Hi Gary,

    So sorry to hear that you have lost the Corsair.
    I really hate having to repair beautiful aircraft - but needs must I suppose.

    I hope it all works out.
    Fingers crossed that the Moki has survived intact.

    Regards

    Steve D

  14. #2739
    ram3500-RCU's Avatar
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    Thanks Steve. She is not a lose, just a set back in the flying season. She will be back in the air.
    Cheers,
    Gary P. / use Steel Powder for ballast not lead. PM me for more information.

  15. #2740

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    Gary glad to hear it will be back in the air. JB

  16. #2741

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    Just glad to hear the damage wasn't terminal, and hopefully it wont be too long before you can get it back together.
    "Whadda ya mean, "There's a loose nut behind the transmitter?!!"

    Never argue with Idiots. They will drag you down to their level and beat you with their experience.

    Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity.

  17. #2742
    Gonzalo38's Avatar
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    After a couple of years on hold, my Corsair is finally seeing some work done on it.

    I have already done the "Down & Lock" wing conversion and nos I'm sending my landing gear for a conversion as well. Not sure what to do with the doors yet and I'm still investigating ? Leave them with the original pistons or change them to another system ? What have you guys donde about this ?

    All the lights are going to be installed next week and waiting on some info on details on some products manufactures by Gary.

    Gary ? Do you have the pictures available ? Did like several of the options you can offer......

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  18. #2743
    ram3500-RCU's Avatar
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    Sliding canopy

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    drive system

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    intakes

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    top hatch

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    bottom hatch

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    Cheers,
    Gary P. / use Steel Powder for ballast not lead. PM me for more information.

  19. #2744
    ram3500-RCU's Avatar
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    Everything we offer is pictured in this thread. I need to do another index to make it easier to find things. Till I can find the time to do this, you can click on 'photo gallery'at the top of the page, and it will only display pictures in the thread. Much easier to find what you are looking for that way.
    Cheers,
    Gary P. / use Steel Powder for ballast not lead. PM me for more information.

  20. #2745

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gonzalo38 View Post
    After a couple of years on hold, my Corsair is finally seeing some work done on it.

    I have already done the "Down & Lock" wing conversion and nos I'm sending my landing gear for a conversion as well. Not sure what to do with the doors yet and I'm still investigating ? Leave them with the original pistons or change them to another system ? What have you guys donde about this ?

    All the lights are going to be installed next week and waiting on some info on details on some products manufactures by Gary.

    Gary ? Do you have the pictures available ? Did like several of the options you can offer......

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    Hi Gonzalo,

    I installed some electric rams for the gear doors, supplied by LADO, without much success.
    These were coupled to a Powerbox Cockpit Which has an inbuilt sequencer.

    The doors worked - but sometimes one or two wouldnt open - randomly not the same each time.
    Sometime all would open sometimes not.
    Tried for days to sort it but never found out what the issue was and daredn't risk a door not opening.

    I have reverted back to air for the main doors only, which is much better.
    Also, should a door not open for any reason, the Down & Locked electric retracts are powerful enough to push the door open.
    With an electric set up you have no chance of opening the door, as it will be locked by the internal gears.

    Regards

    Steve D

  21. #2746
    Gonzalo38's Avatar
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    Gary:

    Thanks for the pictures.... I didn't know that this forum had a tool that would allow you to just display the pictures. Great tip.... I will review the pictures and contact you.

    Steve:

    Thanks for your feedback. What you saya about the possibility of electric actuators falling makes sense so I will just keep the original air cylinders in place. Any need to replace them with bigger cylinders or they are powerful enough ?

  22. #2747
    ram3500-RCU's Avatar
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    We use air on the main doors and mechanical the tail doors. Works great. No air in the fuselage, thus no disconnects and fewer leaks.

    If Down and Locked ever comes out with electric actuators, I will use them. I know THEY will work.
    Cheers,
    Gary P. / use Steel Powder for ballast not lead. PM me for more information.

  23. #2748

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    http://www.ledssuperbright.com/10mm-...0%2B-mcd-p-240

    Just in case anyone needs led΄s replacement. Good company, great service and many types of leds.

  24. #2749

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    Gear Doors

    QUOTE=Gonzalo38;11847591]Gary:
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    Thanks for the pictures.... I didn't know that this forum had a tool that would allow you to just display the pictures. Great tip.... I will review the pictures and contact you.

    Steve:

    Thanks for your feedback. What you saya about the possibility of electric actuators falling makes sense so I will just keep the original air cylinders in place. Any need to replace them with bigger cylinders or they are powerful enough ?[/QUOTE]

    Hi Gonzalo,

    I have used the Robart cylinders I think they are 1" stroke - perfect for the job.

  25. #2750
    Chris Nicastro's Avatar
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    Found this full scale photo showing the gun ports out of the wing and thought it was interesting.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Like a midget in a urinal I knew I had to stay on my toes...


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