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CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread

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Old 10-07-2017, 05:07 PM
  #3601
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Best way to clean the mold release and prepare the surface for paint?
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Old 10-07-2017, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by LtMash1A View Post
Best way to clean the mold release and prepare the surface for paint?
I use denatured alcohol, and then Prep Sol from the local auto body supply house.
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Old 10-08-2017, 05:18 PM
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Thanks, Gary. Did you abrade the surface with anything like a Scotch Brite Pad?
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Old 10-09-2017, 04:38 PM
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Thanks, Gary. Did you abrade the surface with anything like a Scotch Brite Pad?
Yes. I use 400 grit.
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Old 10-10-2017, 06:59 PM
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enjoy.
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Old 10-11-2017, 09:43 AM
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where did you get the lights from? Link?
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Old 10-11-2017, 12:55 PM
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where did you get the lights from? Link?
The lights are our own design. We sell them as a complete kit for the CARF Corsair. Here are a couple pictures of what is included. Each color of LED has a different voltage. Each of our lights is regulated at the bulb for the the correct voltage to protect from an overvolt. The formation lights are built with special lenses of the correct color, in addition to the colored bulbs. We are not taking any orders until we get caught up with all existing orders. Another 2 or 3 weeks should clear out all outstanding orders for any of our offerings.

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Old 10-11-2017, 12:59 PM
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Old 10-11-2017, 01:03 PM
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Old 10-22-2017, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txcnguy View Post
So I see from this thread that a significant amount of nose weight is required. I did my CG yesterday at our clubhouse and found that without weight, or the canopy installed yet, I am already nose heavy. To qualify this, in my build I moved all the batts to the front as much as possible. My thinking here was if I need weight I might as well have it as useful weight. I'm using a Powerbox Mercury with two 5800 mah hard plastic case lipos. In addition a 5000 mah batt for the gear, and another 3500 mah for the ignition and pump. So in total 4 batts moved far to the front.
I used a Xicoy CG meter for this. Measurements shown in pic.
I used CG as 10mm in front of main spar as per CARF manual.
The weight addition point for the CG meter was taken as the front lip of the cowl if I needed to add weight there.
Total weight as shown was 22kg. 48.4 lbs.
Any comments on this, I just want to know on the models that needed a lot of nose weight where were the batteries located and what size were they?
I found that using the XiCoy System that I did not need to add any nose weight as well. Mine came in at 50.6 pounds. I used four Power Box Batteries, all mounted right behind the firewall. The XiCoy tells you to make sure the plane is level. I have gotten a lot of different opinions on just what level is. I used a lazer to draw a line down the fuse perpendicular to the firewall. My reasoning is that on the 3- view the datum line level shows a definite downward slope to the nose. Someone suggested that
level is 0 incidence on the wings. To me this throws the tail way up in the air. Anyway, I was wondering if you have flown yours yet and if you found the XiCoy to be accurate. Also what did you do to determine level.
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Old 10-22-2017, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LtMash1A View Post
I found that using the XiCoy System that I did not need to add any nose weight as well. Mine came in at 50.6 pounds. I used four Power Box Batteries, all mounted right behind the firewall. The XiCoy tells you to make sure the plane is level. I have gotten a lot of different opinions on just what level is. I used a lazer to draw a line down the fuse perpendicular to the firewall. My reasoning is that on the 3- view the datum line level shows a definite downward slope to the nose. Someone suggested that
level is 0 incidence on the wings. To me this throws the tail way up in the air. Anyway, I was wondering if you have flown yours yet and if you found the XiCoy to be accurate. Also what did you do to determine level.
Hi.
After I used the Xicoy, on this thread someone suggested I should do CG with wheels up as this is normal flying. So I couldn't use the Xicoy with wheels up. What I did was similar to you. I marked the CG location with 1/4 in masking tape on the wings near the gear. I took two jack stands and strapped two dowels with some foam and positioned them at the tape marks. Then I took a laser level and set it up from center of nose prop hub to center of tail extension. You know that round extension at the far most rear. At this level it took about 3 lbs in the cowl ring to get CG right. Since I wasn't able to find steel powder, I used round fishing lead weights inside the cowl ring with epoxy resin. Lead is 30% more dense than steel btw. I haven't done the maiden yet but from experience it looks like to me the CG is about right.
So try it again with wheels up.
Dan
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Old 10-22-2017, 06:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LtMash1A View Post
I found that using the XiCoy System that I did not need to add any nose weight as well. Mine came in at 50.6 pounds. I used four Power Box Batteries, all mounted right behind the firewall. The XiCoy tells you to make sure the plane is level. I have gotten a lot of different opinions on just what level is. I used a lazer to draw a line down the fuse perpendicular to the firewall. My reasoning is that on the 3- view the datum line level shows a definite downward slope to the nose. Someone suggested that
level is 0 incidence on the wings. To me this throws the tail way up in the air. Anyway, I was wondering if you have flown yours yet and if you found the XiCoy to be accurate. Also what did you do to determine level.
Let's make this easy. The CG should be 6 1/2 to 6 5/8 aft of the front of the wing saddle. Set your CG there and see what you get. Confusion persists when setting it in relation to the spar. As most know, we have built many of these, and all required at least 4lbs of additional weight forward of the CG, regardless of component location.

Level. Level is when the plane will hold a position or attitude without tipping down fore or aft. I don't worry about the datem line. In reality, fuel quantity, gear possition, trim positions, even sliding the canopy open will shift the virtual CG. Our balance point works in real life. It is proven. The worst thing you can do is leave the ground tail heavy. Please be careful where you establish your CG point. With two servos in the tail, a scale cockpit, paint, and not even going overboard with scale detail aft of the cockpit, with all radio and fuel system as far forward as possible, a Moki and scale Solo prop, with wood blades, and the gear UP, you WILL require around 4lbs of additional weight. If you use the CF prop blades (not recommended), it will take less ballast. Really.
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Old 10-22-2017, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ram3500-RCU View Post
Let's make this easy. The CG should be 6 1/2 to 6 5/8 aft of the front of the wing saddle. Set your CG there and see what you get. Confusion persists when setting it in relation to the spar. As most know, we have built many of these, and all required at least 4lbs of additional weight forward of the CG, regardless of component location.

Level. Level is when the plane will hold a position or attitude without tipping down fore or aft. I don't worry about the datem line. In reality, fuel quantity, gear possition, trim positions, even sliding the canopy open will shift the virtual CG. Our balance point works in real life. It is proven. The worst thing you can do is leave the ground tail heavy. Please be careful where you establish your CG point. With two servos in the tail, a scale cockpit, paint, and not even going overboard with scale detail aft of the cockpit, with all radio and fuel system as far forward as possible, a Moki and scale Solo prop, with wood blades, and the gear UP, you WILL require around 4lbs of additional weight. If you use the CF prop blades (not recommended), it will take less ballast. Really.
Hi Gary.
As I mentioned before to you, I used two really heavy 6000 mah sealed Lipos far forward as useful weight, a 5000 mah Lipo for Gear, and a 3500 mah for ignition. All far forward. So my extra batt weight offsets the one pound less at the nose ring. My CG mark was at the mark 6 1/2 to 6 5/8 aft of the wing saddle btw. Total all in weight about 50 lbs. But for maiden I will bolt on another pound to be sure.
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Old 10-22-2017, 07:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ram3500-RCU View Post
Let's make this easy. The CG should be 6 1/2 to 6 5/8 aft of the front of the wing saddle. Set your CG there and see what you get. Confusion persists when setting it in relation to the spar. As most know, we have built many of these, and all required at least 4lbs of additional weight forward of the CG, regardless of component location.

Level. Level is when the plane will hold a position or attitude without tipping down fore or aft. I don't worry about the datem line. In reality, fuel quantity, gear possition, trim positions, even sliding the canopy open will shift the virtual CG. Our balance point works in real life. It is proven. The worst thing you can do is leave the ground tail heavy. Please be careful where you establish your CG point. With two servos in the tail, a scale cockpit, paint, and not even going overboard with scale detail aft of the cockpit, with all radio and fuel system as far forward as possible, a Moki and scale Solo prop, with wood blades, and the gear UP, you WILL require around 4lbs of additional weight. If you use the CF prop blades (not recommended), it will take less ballast. Really.
​​​​​​The CG should be 6 1/2 to 6 5/8 aft of the front of the wing saddle

​​​​​​"The CG should be 6 1/2 to 6 5/8 aft of the front of the wing saddle" . Gary, That puts the CG at the recommended location according to the manual. I thought you said in an earlier post that that Dino recommended that it be moved aft. At one time you quoted 3/4 inch in front of the gear door opening on the bottom. So, now are back to factory? Thanks, Dave
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Old 10-22-2017, 07:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txcnguy View Post
Hi Gary.
As I mentioned before to you, I used two really heavy 6000 mah sealed Lipos far forward as useful weight, a 5000 mah Lipo for Gear, and a 3500 mah for ignition. All far forward. So my extra batt weight offsets the one pound less at the nose ring. My CG mark was at the mark 6 1/2 to 6 5/8 aft of the wing saddle btw. Total all in weight about 50 lbs. But for maiden I will bolt on another pound to be sure.
Understood. My comment was more directed at the guys who balance with the gear down, then misslocate the CG point, and swear that no additional nose weight is needed. Extra heavy Batts, and no cockpit detail, will make a difference.

Thank you for all your posts. This is important stuff.
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Old 10-26-2017, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
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Best way to clean the mold release and prepare the surface for paint?

I've been told that hot soapy water is the only thing that will really remove the mold release agent from the parts.
It is kind of impervious to any of the harsher chemicals like (wax/grease remover and paint reducers) as it withstands the spraying of the gel coats and paints used in the molds.

If you don't get all of the release agent off before you either sand or use scuff pads on the surface. All you will do is push it deeper into the surface creating more problems for the paint to adhere.

Last edited by Greg Wright; 10-26-2017 at 01:22 PM.
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Old 10-26-2017, 03:24 PM
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Thanks, Greg
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Old 10-27-2017, 03:37 AM
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Thanks, Greg
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Old 10-29-2017, 09:55 AM
  #3619
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After painting and pulling the paint mask, they leave a sticky residue. Anyone else have this problem and know what to use to remove it?
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Old 10-29-2017, 03:46 PM
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WD 40 will remove the sticky stuff. So will Label removers etc.
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Old 10-30-2017, 04:00 AM
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WD 40 will remove the sticky stuff. So will Label removers etc.
These will remove the paint also!!
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Old 10-30-2017, 04:08 AM
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Quote:
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After painting and pulling the paint mask, they leave a sticky residue. Anyone else have this problem and know what to use to remove it?
I've never had this issue with the adhesives on the paint masks.
It sounds as if the adhesive on the material, isn't capable of standing up to the reducers/thinners in the paint.
Again i would try the hot soapy water trick as any chemical might remove the paint from the surface and you don't want that to happen.
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Old 10-30-2017, 05:42 AM
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Remove the paint? Not in my experience. Yours must be different.
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Old 10-30-2017, 04:10 PM
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This is what I ended up doing. WIPEOUT, by High Teck Ind. It's a solvent used to wipe off finger prints and oils off primer before painting cars. I'm sure there are a lot of different brands of the same thing. I got it from the automotive paint store. I had some around because I use it for painting the plane right before the first coat of paint or primer.Thanks for the help.
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Old 12-10-2017, 01:57 AM
  #3625
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Hi Guys,
Does RAM 500 (Gary) still sell parts for the Corsair? I have one progressing nicely and I could use some of his parts to save time. I have PM'ed him a couple of times. I got a price list and then tried to order some parts in the summer, but no word back since then. Sent a reminder PM. same result.
If you read this Gary, then HI! just let me know if you want to do business or not?
Kind Regards,

John
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