CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
09-26-2012, 03:48 AM
#1451
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
Here is a n early test showing how the doors need to clear the fork, impossible with a 4" shock. You will see that on this model, I had not yet gotten the shock shortened, but simply used one of the correct length from the RC car industry.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...5HZH4lu60&NR=1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...5HZH4lu60&NR=1
09-26-2012, 04:20 AM
#1452
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
Here is the video with the permanent doors installed.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T91Ez...ature=youtu.be
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T91Ez...ature=youtu.be
09-26-2012, 04:45 AM
#1454
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
ORIGINAL: AngusMc
Hi Gary, link does not work, ''video removed by user''
this is great, all this info really helps
Thanks again
Hi Gary, link does not work, ''video removed by user''
this is great, all this info really helps
Thanks again
09-26-2012, 10:14 AM
#1458
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
ORIGINAL: MANFRED
Gary, would love to get that geometry on the door links you made.
Thanks
Gary, would love to get that geometry on the door links you made.
Thanks
09-26-2012, 12:30 PM
#1459
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Los Gatos, CA
Posts: 797
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
Gary,
On mine the shock was longer than the first release. So what I did was open up the spring shock in the tail wheel and then using a brass tube I cut a little more the 1/4" of an inch and slipped it over the piston and then replace the spring and with thread lock (blue) I put the shock back together. Hope this helps.
One question: How can I get the control arm for the tail hook? As seen in your tail wheel video.
Thanks
On mine the shock was longer than the first release. So what I did was open up the spring shock in the tail wheel and then using a brass tube I cut a little more the 1/4" of an inch and slipped it over the piston and then replace the spring and with thread lock (blue) I put the shock back together. Hope this helps.
One question: How can I get the control arm for the tail hook? As seen in your tail wheel video.
Thanks
09-26-2012, 01:01 PM
#1460
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
ORIGINAL: MRadu
Gary,
On mine the shock was longer than the first release. So what I did was open up the spring shock in the tail wheel and then using a brass tube I cut a little more the 1/4'' of an inch and slipped it over the piston and then replace the spring and with thread lock (blue) I put the shock back together. Hope this helps.
One question: How can I get the control arm for the tail hook? As seen in your tail wheel video.
Thanks
Gary,
On mine the shock was longer than the first release. So what I did was open up the spring shock in the tail wheel and then using a brass tube I cut a little more the 1/4'' of an inch and slipped it over the piston and then replace the spring and with thread lock (blue) I put the shock back together. Hope this helps.
One question: How can I get the control arm for the tail hook? As seen in your tail wheel video.
Thanks
). Keep it mind that that shock is the whole smash for holding the tail wheel in place. And, without the proper travel and load capacity, you WILL bend the upper pivot arm (the one the cylinder pushes on) when she bottoms out.All the parts you see on the tail gear I hand made, except the hook itself. That is part of the Greame Mears upgrade kit. I don't know of any commercial source for them. If someone does, please let us know.
Will save me some time on the next one.
09-26-2012, 01:18 PM
#1461
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
Here is a better view of the parts I made, and how they all work.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TkKSBCstNu0
Couple things I'd like to add. I originally used a screw in the hook, just screwed into the resin, as seen in the video. This screw eventually worked loose and the rear part of the boom with the hook slid off as we took off (looked pretty cool with the hook down until it did) . Fortunately, this happened right over the runway on take off, and another pilot found the hook and kindly returned it to us. I then through bolted it and added some CA, with no more issues.
Also, as you can see, I did not paint the servos and lead wires in the top of the gear bay. A scale judge downgraded us for that!!! This is one of the couple things that kept us out of 1st place, as we missed it by just 1 point. Easy fix.
Everything else on the tail worked perfectly and looked great.
Look closely and you can see the tail hook has come loose and is down as she rolls down the runway and lifts off (about 2 min into this video) on her 4th flight.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=onOX3fJKZtw&feature=em-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TkKSBCstNu0
Couple things I'd like to add. I originally used a screw in the hook, just screwed into the resin, as seen in the video. This screw eventually worked loose and the rear part of the boom with the hook slid off as we took off (looked pretty cool with the hook down until it did) . Fortunately, this happened right over the runway on take off, and another pilot found the hook and kindly returned it to us. I then through bolted it and added some CA, with no more issues.
Also, as you can see, I did not paint the servos and lead wires in the top of the gear bay. A scale judge downgraded us for that!!! This is one of the couple things that kept us out of 1st place, as we missed it by just 1 point. Easy fix.
Everything else on the tail worked perfectly and looked great.
Look closely and you can see the tail hook has come loose and is down as she rolls down the runway and lifts off (about 2 min into this video) on her 4th flight.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=onOX3fJKZtw&feature=em-
09-26-2012, 04:24 PM
#1462
My Feedback: (1)
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
Another question, I have Robart 165 door cylinders, at the end of the stroke I have about 1/8-3/16 left to attach to the door hinge mount hole, typically I would just put a ball link on the end and be done but not enough room, it looks like I need a 2-56 theaded 90deg fitting of some sort, I have seach the web and cant seem to find anything any suggestions
Angus
Angus
09-26-2012, 06:43 PM
#1463
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
ORIGINAL: AngusMc
Another question, I have Robart 165 door cylinders, at the end of the stroke I have about 1/8-3/16 left to attach to the door hinge mount hole, typically I would just put a ball link on the end and be done but not enough room, it looks like I need a 2-56 theaded 90deg fitting of some sort, I have seach the web and cant seem to find anything any suggestions
Angus
Another question, I have Robart 165 door cylinders, at the end of the stroke I have about 1/8-3/16 left to attach to the door hinge mount hole, typically I would just put a ball link on the end and be done but not enough room, it looks like I need a 2-56 theaded 90deg fitting of some sort, I have seach the web and cant seem to find anything any suggestions
Angus
http://www.globaljetclub.com/index.p...product_id=394
You can move the cylinder towards the center for more room if you need it.
10-02-2012, 12:18 PM
#1466
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Gibsonia,
PA
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
Gary:
You stated in your post on page 40:
With my marks triple checked, I cut the homemade rails in. I then epoxied the rails in the slots. I am using a flat head machine bolt, with a jam nut tightening it to the canopy. Then a self-locking nut will be screwed onto the inside, which will run in the rail. This will give the scale look on the outside of the canopy. I'll drill a hole behind the rail so these can be inserted, then I'll screw a plate on to cover this. The full scale has this look.
I was going to use brass for the doubler on the inside of the canopy, but then thought of using some carbon fiber and found that the pieces that you cut the main gear doors are perfect for this. I cut this to shape and was able to drill and tap it with 2-56. Works great.
Gary,
My project is a Zeroli Corsair. I just got the L&D jackscrew and controller from Mitch and looks very good.
I am looking at the flat screw and locking nut you used for sliding in the sloted brass rails for the back of the canopy. My 2-56 locking nuts are to big for the 1/4 square brass rails I have from NCIS (R.I.P).
Also in a few posts latter you show going to a ball link with L shaped brass for mounting to the front of the canopy. how did you attach the push rod to the ball?
I have found at my LHS a ball and socket 4-40 size that, with some sanding I can get it to work. These are make by LOSI and are at Horizon. Looks like model car stuff.
Thanks for any help you can offer.
Bob Masterson
[email protected]
I have the NCIS supplied rails and ball links but cannot find a small enough nut to fit inside my rails. They are 1/4" square
You stated in your post on page 40:
With my marks triple checked, I cut the homemade rails in. I then epoxied the rails in the slots. I am using a flat head machine bolt, with a jam nut tightening it to the canopy. Then a self-locking nut will be screwed onto the inside, which will run in the rail. This will give the scale look on the outside of the canopy. I'll drill a hole behind the rail so these can be inserted, then I'll screw a plate on to cover this. The full scale has this look.
I was going to use brass for the doubler on the inside of the canopy, but then thought of using some carbon fiber and found that the pieces that you cut the main gear doors are perfect for this. I cut this to shape and was able to drill and tap it with 2-56. Works great.
Gary,
My project is a Zeroli Corsair. I just got the L&D jackscrew and controller from Mitch and looks very good.
I am looking at the flat screw and locking nut you used for sliding in the sloted brass rails for the back of the canopy. My 2-56 locking nuts are to big for the 1/4 square brass rails I have from NCIS (R.I.P).
Also in a few posts latter you show going to a ball link with L shaped brass for mounting to the front of the canopy. how did you attach the push rod to the ball?
I have found at my LHS a ball and socket 4-40 size that, with some sanding I can get it to work. These are make by LOSI and are at Horizon. Looks like model car stuff.
Thanks for any help you can offer.
Bob Masterson
[email protected]
I have the NCIS supplied rails and ball links but cannot find a small enough nut to fit inside my rails. They are 1/4" square
10-02-2012, 12:25 PM
#1467
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
ORIGINAL: nauticom
Gary:
You stated in your post on page 40:
With my marks triple checked, I cut the homemade rails in. I then epoxied the rails in the slots. I am using a flat head machine bolt, with a jam nut tightening it to the canopy. Then a self-locking nut will be screwed onto the inside, which will run in the rail. This will give the scale look on the outside of the canopy. I'll drill a hole behind the rail so these can be inserted, then I'll screw a plate on to cover this. The full scale has this look.
I was going to use brass for the doubler on the inside of the canopy, but then thought of using some carbon fiber and found that the pieces that you cut the main gear doors are perfect for this. I cut this to shape and was able to drill and tap it with 2-56. Works great.
Gary,
My project is a Zeroli Corsair. I just got the L&D jackscrew and controller from Mitch and looks very good.
I am looking at the flat screw and locking nut you used for sliding in the sloted brass rails for the back of the canopy. My 2-56 locking nuts are to big for the 1/4 square brass rails I have from NCIS (R.I.P).
Also in a few posts latter you show going to a ball link with L shaped brass for mounting to the front of the canopy. how did you attach the push rod to the ball?
I have found at my LHS a ball and socket 4-40 size that, with some sanding I can get it to work. These are make by LOSI and are at Horizon. Looks like model car stuff.
Thanks for any help you can offer.
Bob Masterson
[email protected]
I have the NCIS supplied rails and ball links but cannot find a small enough nut to fit inside my rails. They are 1/4'' square
Gary:
You stated in your post on page 40:
With my marks triple checked, I cut the homemade rails in. I then epoxied the rails in the slots. I am using a flat head machine bolt, with a jam nut tightening it to the canopy. Then a self-locking nut will be screwed onto the inside, which will run in the rail. This will give the scale look on the outside of the canopy. I'll drill a hole behind the rail so these can be inserted, then I'll screw a plate on to cover this. The full scale has this look.
I was going to use brass for the doubler on the inside of the canopy, but then thought of using some carbon fiber and found that the pieces that you cut the main gear doors are perfect for this. I cut this to shape and was able to drill and tap it with 2-56. Works great.
Gary,
My project is a Zeroli Corsair. I just got the L&D jackscrew and controller from Mitch and looks very good.
I am looking at the flat screw and locking nut you used for sliding in the sloted brass rails for the back of the canopy. My 2-56 locking nuts are to big for the 1/4 square brass rails I have from NCIS (R.I.P).
Also in a few posts latter you show going to a ball link with L shaped brass for mounting to the front of the canopy. how did you attach the push rod to the ball?
I have found at my LHS a ball and socket 4-40 size that, with some sanding I can get it to work. These are make by LOSI and are at Horizon. Looks like model car stuff.
Thanks for any help you can offer.
Bob Masterson
[email protected]
I have the NCIS supplied rails and ball links but cannot find a small enough nut to fit inside my rails. They are 1/4'' square
10-03-2012, 04:20 PM
#1469
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
Here are some pictures to help with my canopy system for the Corsair. It will also work on other planes.
1. A ball link is used, and captured in a square stock sized to slide into the slotted larger canopy rail.
2. This "driver" is connected to a push rod epoxied into the square stock.
3.The front of the canopy is bolted to a bracket which in turn is fastened to the threaded end of the ball link.
4. The rear of the canopy is held by a bolt fastened to the canopy by a nut on the inside, with a self locking nut on the end. This nut is slide into the canopy rail.
1. A ball link is used, and captured in a square stock sized to slide into the slotted larger canopy rail.
2. This "driver" is connected to a push rod epoxied into the square stock.
3.The front of the canopy is bolted to a bracket which in turn is fastened to the threaded end of the ball link.
4. The rear of the canopy is held by a bolt fastened to the canopy by a nut on the inside, with a self locking nut on the end. This nut is slide into the canopy rail.
10-03-2012, 07:31 PM
#1472
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
Here is the video I made based on this system.
The 3000rpm motor I spoke of in the video did not produce enough torque and we settled on a 1200 rpm from Down and Locked.
Although it is slower than we are used to seeing from the air driven systems, I thought the visual affect on the runway was very good. It worked at a speed that one could see it clearly moving.
Closing http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KfNt4...feature=relmfu
Opening http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uo_6f9sS1ww
The 3000rpm motor I spoke of in the video did not produce enough torque and we settled on a 1200 rpm from Down and Locked.
Although it is slower than we are used to seeing from the air driven systems, I thought the visual affect on the runway was very good. It worked at a speed that one could see it clearly moving.
Closing http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KfNt4...feature=relmfu
Opening http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uo_6f9sS1ww
10-04-2012, 05:01 PM
#1473
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Gibsonia,
PA
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
Gary:
Thanks very much for the further insite to your canopy design.
I'm assuming your inside square tube is 1/4" square riding inside a 5/16 square tube?
In any event I cannot find 5/16 square tube anywhere. Any suggestions?I really like the square brass carrier. I will go that route if I can find some of it.
Thanks,
BobM
Thanks very much for the further insite to your canopy design.
I'm assuming your inside square tube is 1/4" square riding inside a 5/16 square tube?
In any event I cannot find 5/16 square tube anywhere. Any suggestions?I really like the square brass carrier. I will go that route if I can find some of it.
Thanks,
BobM
10-04-2012, 08:23 PM
#1474
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
ORIGINAL: nauticom
Gary:
Thanks very much for the further insite to your canopy design.
I'm assuming your inside square tube is 1/4'' square riding inside a 5/16 square tube?
In any event I cannot find 5/16 square tube anywhere. Any suggestions?I really like the square brass carrier. I will go that route if I can find some of it.
Thanks,
BobM
Gary:
Thanks very much for the further insite to your canopy design.
I'm assuming your inside square tube is 1/4'' square riding inside a 5/16 square tube?
In any event I cannot find 5/16 square tube anywhere. Any suggestions?I really like the square brass carrier. I will go that route if I can find some of it.
Thanks,
BobM
The slotted outer sq. stock is 7/32 brass (K&S Engineering stock # 154) and the inner one is 3/16 (K&S # 153). Most hobby centers and craft stores carry these.
