CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
12-24-2012, 07:14 PM
#1577
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Los Gatos, CA
Posts: 797
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
ORIGINAL: ram3500-RCU
Michael, I didn't address this part of your previous post.
''I would like the processor to fire them, however, I do not want the sound at this time. As I do not wish to cut the bottom. Do you really think I should?''
My personal opinion is, the sound is as important as the lights for a good affect. On a strafing run, the sound of the guns is maybe even more evident than the gun flashes. The sound can be heard no matter what angle you are to the flight line, and it can be heard for some distance.
Now here is the rub. Yes, the bottom hatch is essential to the installation but just as important is opening up the intakes. A more scale intake, with open louvers, is what makes it possible to get that wonderful sound out.
If you don't intend to open up the intakes, it makes little sense to add the sound. So you see, the intakes are a bigger issue than the hatch IMO, when it comes to the gun sound.
As for the hatch itself, this is a movable part on the full scale Corsair anyway, and works much like the cowl flaps do. It opens to the rear, but we swing it down from the side for an easier hinge set up. Cutting it open has absolutely no affect on the structural integrity of the wing, in fact, it may even add to it as you gain access to inner places to add epoxy around spar. Not absolutely necessary, but can't hurt. That big carbon fiber spar is what holds this bird together, not the wing skin.
Michael, I didn't address this part of your previous post.
''I would like the processor to fire them, however, I do not want the sound at this time. As I do not wish to cut the bottom. Do you really think I should?''
My personal opinion is, the sound is as important as the lights for a good affect. On a strafing run, the sound of the guns is maybe even more evident than the gun flashes. The sound can be heard no matter what angle you are to the flight line, and it can be heard for some distance.
Now here is the rub. Yes, the bottom hatch is essential to the installation but just as important is opening up the intakes. A more scale intake, with open louvers, is what makes it possible to get that wonderful sound out.
If you don't intend to open up the intakes, it makes little sense to add the sound. So you see, the intakes are a bigger issue than the hatch IMO, when it comes to the gun sound.
As for the hatch itself, this is a movable part on the full scale Corsair anyway, and works much like the cowl flaps do. It opens to the rear, but we swing it down from the side for an easier hinge set up. Cutting it open has absolutely no affect on the structural integrity of the wing, in fact, it may even add to it as you gain access to inner places to add epoxy around spar. Not absolutely necessary, but can't hurt. That big carbon fiber spar is what holds this bird together, not the wing skin.
If you are willing to create a package that includes the speakers then please include me and I'll install them :-)
I already have the scale oil coolers with aluminum curved intake in the leading edge of the wings. I didn't cut my wings to install them. Will I also have to open the bottom of the wings to install the speakers?
With photo I will try it if you sale a kit to me. I see the power for the guns is a 9Volt battery. That works for me!
What kind of power and equipment are needed for the speakers.
Santa is also so so close. I hope you get all on you Christmas list!
12-24-2012, 07:25 PM
#1578
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
ORIGINAL: MRadu
Gary,
If you are willing to create a package that includes the speakers then please include me and I'll install them :-)
I already have the scale oil coolers with aluminum curved intake in the leading edge of the wings. I didn't cut my wings to install them. Will I also have to open the bottom of the wings to install the speakers?
With photo I will try it if you sale a kit to me. I see the power for the guns is a 9Volt battery. That works for me!
What kind of power and equipment are needed for the speakers.
Santa is also so so close. I hope you get all on you Christmas list!
ORIGINAL: ram3500-RCU
Michael, I didn't address this part of your previous post.
''I would like the processor to fire them, however, I do not want the sound at this time. As I do not wish to cut the bottom. Do you really think I should?''
My personal opinion is, the sound is as important as the lights for a good affect. On a strafing run, the sound of the guns is maybe even more evident than the gun flashes. The sound can be heard no matter what angle you are to the flight line, and it can be heard for some distance.
Now here is the rub. Yes, the bottom hatch is essential to the installation but just as important is opening up the intakes. A more scale intake, with open louvers, is what makes it possible to get that wonderful sound out.
If you don't intend to open up the intakes, it makes little sense to add the sound. So you see, the intakes are a bigger issue than the hatch IMO, when it comes to the gun sound.
As for the hatch itself, this is a movable part on the full scale Corsair anyway, and works much like the cowl flaps do. It opens to the rear, but we swing it down from the side for an easier hinge set up. Cutting it open has absolutely no affect on the structural integrity of the wing, in fact, it may even add to it as you gain access to inner places to add epoxy around spar. Not absolutely necessary, but can't hurt. That big carbon fiber spar is what holds this bird together, not the wing skin.
Michael, I didn't address this part of your previous post.
''I would like the processor to fire them, however, I do not want the sound at this time. As I do not wish to cut the bottom. Do you really think I should?''
My personal opinion is, the sound is as important as the lights for a good affect. On a strafing run, the sound of the guns is maybe even more evident than the gun flashes. The sound can be heard no matter what angle you are to the flight line, and it can be heard for some distance.
Now here is the rub. Yes, the bottom hatch is essential to the installation but just as important is opening up the intakes. A more scale intake, with open louvers, is what makes it possible to get that wonderful sound out.
If you don't intend to open up the intakes, it makes little sense to add the sound. So you see, the intakes are a bigger issue than the hatch IMO, when it comes to the gun sound.
As for the hatch itself, this is a movable part on the full scale Corsair anyway, and works much like the cowl flaps do. It opens to the rear, but we swing it down from the side for an easier hinge set up. Cutting it open has absolutely no affect on the structural integrity of the wing, in fact, it may even add to it as you gain access to inner places to add epoxy around spar. Not absolutely necessary, but can't hurt. That big carbon fiber spar is what holds this bird together, not the wing skin.
If you are willing to create a package that includes the speakers then please include me and I'll install them :-)
I already have the scale oil coolers with aluminum curved intake in the leading edge of the wings. I didn't cut my wings to install them. Will I also have to open the bottom of the wings to install the speakers?
With photo I will try it if you sale a kit to me. I see the power for the guns is a 9Volt battery. That works for me!
What kind of power and equipment are needed for the speakers.
Santa is also so so close. I hope you get all on you Christmas list!
Yes, you will need the bottom hatch. The speakers are really mini bull horns. To get them in behind bthe intakes where they do the best, you will go through the hatch as I posted a couple back.
12-24-2012, 07:49 PM
#1579
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Los Gatos, CA
Posts: 797
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
Ok please add to the list of items I'm wishing for.
Let me if you and Brian are willing to make me a complete set. I'll also need the blue lights on top of wing and fuselage. Shall I order from ElectroDynamics the top blue lights?
I love it all. I'll just take it one day and step at a time.
Let me if you and Brian are willing to make me a complete set. I'll also need the blue lights on top of wing and fuselage. Shall I order from ElectroDynamics the top blue lights?
I love it all. I'll just take it one day and step at a time.
12-24-2012, 08:00 PM
#1580
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
ORIGINAL: MRadu
Ok please add to the list of items I'm wishing for.
Let me if you and Brian are willing to make me a complete set. I'll also need the blue lights on top of wing and fuselage. Shall I order from ElectroDynamics the top blue lights?
I love it all. I'll just take it one day and step at a time.
Ok please add to the list of items I'm wishing for.
Let me if you and Brian are willing to make me a complete set. I'll also need the blue lights on top of wing and fuselage. Shall I order from ElectroDynamics the top blue lights?
I love it all. I'll just take it one day and step at a time.
Up to you on the top light. You can add that one to the system you have, or we can incorporate it in ours. Should work fine either way.
12-24-2012, 09:34 PM
#1582
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: buckeye, AZ
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
ORIGINAL: ram3500-RCU
You will not be disappointed. It is well worth the cost and effort IMO.
Yes, you will need the bottom hatch. The speakers are really mini bull horns. To get them in behind bthe intakes where they do the best, you will go through the hatch as I posted a couple back.
ORIGINAL: MRadu
Gary,
If you are willing to create a package that includes the speakers then please include me and I'll install them :-)
I already have the scale oil coolers with aluminum curved intake in the leading edge of the wings. I didn't cut my wings to install them. Will I also have to open the bottom of the wings to install the speakers?
With photo I will try it if you sale a kit to me. I see the power for the guns is a 9Volt battery. That works for me!
What kind of power and equipment are needed for the speakers.
Santa is also so so close. I hope you get all on you Christmas list!
ORIGINAL: ram3500-RCU
Michael, I didn't address this part of your previous post.
''I would like the processor to fire them, however, I do not want the sound at this time. As I do not wish to cut the bottom. Do you really think I should?''
My personal opinion is, the sound is as important as the lights for a good affect. On a strafing run, the sound of the guns is maybe even more evident than the gun flashes. The sound can be heard no matter what angle you are to the flight line, and it can be heard for some distance.
Now here is the rub. Yes, the bottom hatch is essential to the installation but just as important is opening up the intakes. A more scale intake, with open louvers, is what makes it possible to get that wonderful sound out.
If you don't intend to open up the intakes, it makes little sense to add the sound. So you see, the intakes are a bigger issue than the hatch IMO, when it comes to the gun sound.
As for the hatch itself, this is a movable part on the full scale Corsair anyway, and works much like the cowl flaps do. It opens to the rear, but we swing it down from the side for an easier hinge set up. Cutting it open has absolutely no affect on the structural integrity of the wing, in fact, it may even add to it as you gain access to inner places to add epoxy around spar. Not absolutely necessary, but can't hurt. That big carbon fiber spar is what holds this bird together, not the wing skin.
Michael, I didn't address this part of your previous post.
''I would like the processor to fire them, however, I do not want the sound at this time. As I do not wish to cut the bottom. Do you really think I should?''
My personal opinion is, the sound is as important as the lights for a good affect. On a strafing run, the sound of the guns is maybe even more evident than the gun flashes. The sound can be heard no matter what angle you are to the flight line, and it can be heard for some distance.
Now here is the rub. Yes, the bottom hatch is essential to the installation but just as important is opening up the intakes. A more scale intake, with open louvers, is what makes it possible to get that wonderful sound out.
If you don't intend to open up the intakes, it makes little sense to add the sound. So you see, the intakes are a bigger issue than the hatch IMO, when it comes to the gun sound.
As for the hatch itself, this is a movable part on the full scale Corsair anyway, and works much like the cowl flaps do. It opens to the rear, but we swing it down from the side for an easier hinge set up. Cutting it open has absolutely no affect on the structural integrity of the wing, in fact, it may even add to it as you gain access to inner places to add epoxy around spar. Not absolutely necessary, but can't hurt. That big carbon fiber spar is what holds this bird together, not the wing skin.
If you are willing to create a package that includes the speakers then please include me and I'll install them :-)
I already have the scale oil coolers with aluminum curved intake in the leading edge of the wings. I didn't cut my wings to install them. Will I also have to open the bottom of the wings to install the speakers?
With photo I will try it if you sale a kit to me. I see the power for the guns is a 9Volt battery. That works for me!
What kind of power and equipment are needed for the speakers.
Santa is also so so close. I hope you get all on you Christmas list!
Yes, you will need the bottom hatch. The speakers are really mini bull horns. To get them in behind bthe intakes where they do the best, you will go through the hatch as I posted a couple back.
Gary,
if you are going to make a setup. Also add me to the list. for a complete setup. Thanks,
Vern
12-24-2012, 10:00 PM
#1586
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: buckeye, AZ
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
ORIGINAL: ram3500-RCU
Will do vern.
What all would you like included, and would you like it to be plug-in, or would you want to do some soldering?
Will do vern.
What all would you like included, and would you like it to be plug-in, or would you want to do some soldering?
Thanks, vern
Ps I think you have my email address if not let me know.
12-24-2012, 10:05 PM
#1587
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
ORIGINAL: vfrank59
I would like it plug in if possible. I was unable to make contact with the Doc on getting a sound system. So if you guys are able set me up!
Thanks, vern
Ps I think you have my email address if not let me know.
ORIGINAL: ram3500-RCU
Will do vern.
What all would you like included, and would you like it to be plug-in, or would you want to do some soldering?
Will do vern.
What all would you like included, and would you like it to be plug-in, or would you want to do some soldering?
Thanks, vern
Ps I think you have my email address if not let me know.
12-24-2012, 10:10 PM
#1588
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: buckeye, AZ
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
ORIGINAL: ram3500-RCU
OK vern. Complete gun system, and all the nav and formation lighting?
ORIGINAL: vfrank59
I would like it plug in if possible. I was unable to make contact with the Doc on getting a sound system. So if you guys are able set me up!
Thanks, vern
Ps I think you have my email address if not let me know.
ORIGINAL: ram3500-RCU
Will do vern.
What all would you like included, and would you like it to be plug-in, or would you want to do some soldering?
Will do vern.
What all would you like included, and would you like it to be plug-in, or would you want to do some soldering?
Thanks, vern
Ps I think you have my email address if not let me know.
Thanks
Vern
12-24-2012, 10:13 PM
#1590
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
ORIGINAL: vfrank59
Yep guns system, nav and formation lighting. Sound system.
Thanks
Vern
ORIGINAL: ram3500-RCU
OK vern. Complete gun system, and all the nav and formation lighting?
ORIGINAL: vfrank59
I would like it plug in if possible. I was unable to make contact with the Doc on getting a sound system. So if you guys are able set me up!
Thanks, vern
Ps I think you have my email address if not let me know.
ORIGINAL: ram3500-RCU
Will do vern.
What all would you like included, and would you like it to be plug-in, or would you want to do some soldering?
Will do vern.
What all would you like included, and would you like it to be plug-in, or would you want to do some soldering?
Thanks, vern
Ps I think you have my email address if not let me know.
Thanks
Vern
12-25-2012, 08:23 AM
#1591
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: AIX EN PROVENCE, FRANCE, METROPOLITAN
Posts: 382
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
ORIGINAL: ram3500-RCU
I have been asked about the cowl flaps. I will post some additional pictures and explanation on this in this thread. When I was doing this on the Top Gun plane, I was having problems logging on RCU, so most of that explanation was posted on RCSB. I'll get it posted later this evening.
Pictures of the cowl flaps in this thread can be found on page 46, post #1135.
The way I did it kept the flaps permanently attached to the fuselage, as the full scale is, and worked very well. It made the cowl very easy to remove as well. This is very handy for Corsairs equipped with the Moki, as access to the valves for adjustment is very important, during the break in period. The valves should be adjusted after each run until, when checked, they need no adjustment.
The retaining screws for the cowl are inside the cowl flaps and accessed from the back of the cowl, instead of through the front. The baffles make it difficult to go through the front, and I highly recommend the use of baffles. Overheating is an issue without them.
I have been asked about the cowl flaps. I will post some additional pictures and explanation on this in this thread. When I was doing this on the Top Gun plane, I was having problems logging on RCU, so most of that explanation was posted on RCSB. I'll get it posted later this evening.
Pictures of the cowl flaps in this thread can be found on page 46, post #1135.
The way I did it kept the flaps permanently attached to the fuselage, as the full scale is, and worked very well. It made the cowl very easy to remove as well. This is very handy for Corsairs equipped with the Moki, as access to the valves for adjustment is very important, during the break in period. The valves should be adjusted after each run until, when checked, they need no adjustment.
The retaining screws for the cowl are inside the cowl flaps and accessed from the back of the cowl, instead of through the front. The baffles make it difficult to go through the front, and I highly recommend the use of baffles. Overheating is an issue without them.
I just receive my Corsair ARF kit. The new leading edge hinges are already installed.
I'm interrested in some detailled pics concerning the cowl flaps.
Best regards
Stan
PS: some pics about the painting scheme of my Ziroli Corsair
12-25-2012, 09:42 AM
#1593
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
ORIGINAL: STAN-CAUSSEL
Hi Gary
I just receive my Corsair ARF kit. The new leading edge hinges are already installed.
I'm interrested in some detailled pics concerning the cowl flaps.
Best regards
Stan
PS: some pics about the painting scheme of my Ziroli Corsair
ORIGINAL: ram3500-RCU
I have been asked about the cowl flaps. I will post some additional pictures and explanation on this in this thread. When I was doing this on the Top Gun plane, I was having problems logging on RCU, so most of that explanation was posted on RCSB. I'll get it posted later this evening.
Pictures of the cowl flaps in this thread can be found on page 46, post #1135.
The way I did it kept the flaps permanently attached to the fuselage, as the full scale is, and worked very well. It made the cowl very easy to remove as well. This is very handy for Corsairs equipped with the Moki, as access to the valves for adjustment is very important, during the break in period. The valves should be adjusted after each run until, when checked, they need no adjustment.
The retaining screws for the cowl are inside the cowl flaps and accessed from the back of the cowl, instead of through the front. The baffles make it difficult to go through the front, and I highly recommend the use of baffles. Overheating is an issue without them.
I have been asked about the cowl flaps. I will post some additional pictures and explanation on this in this thread. When I was doing this on the Top Gun plane, I was having problems logging on RCU, so most of that explanation was posted on RCSB. I'll get it posted later this evening.
Pictures of the cowl flaps in this thread can be found on page 46, post #1135.
The way I did it kept the flaps permanently attached to the fuselage, as the full scale is, and worked very well. It made the cowl very easy to remove as well. This is very handy for Corsairs equipped with the Moki, as access to the valves for adjustment is very important, during the break in period. The valves should be adjusted after each run until, when checked, they need no adjustment.
The retaining screws for the cowl are inside the cowl flaps and accessed from the back of the cowl, instead of through the front. The baffles make it difficult to go through the front, and I highly recommend the use of baffles. Overheating is an issue without them.
I just receive my Corsair ARF kit. The new leading edge hinges are already installed.
I'm interrested in some detailled pics concerning the cowl flaps.
Best regards
Stan
PS: some pics about the painting scheme of my Ziroli Corsair
I will be happy to document how I did the cowl flaps.
First, I'd like to say how much I appreciate you posting pictures of your Ziroli. What a great job of detail you did. I figure once a plane is built, I'm not quite half way with the build. It is all about the details, isn't it. I too like the Pappy #1 sign.
Nice touch. I also like all the detail around the movable panels. Very nice. Let's talk tape. The white on the nose of early Corsairs was surgical tape (every base had plenty), and it was used to seal the panel seams because they leaked fluids onto the wind screen. This was later solved with better seals and plumbing. The tape was made by the Hercules Chemical company, and was 2" wide. In the scale of the CARF Corsair, this would be 1/4" or close to 7MM. It was constantly taken off when panels were opened, and then replaced. It would also need replaced when it would no longer stick. Not always perfectly straight. Not always on exactly the same place. It was also used on the gun ports to protect the barrels from corral dust or sea salt, after they had been cleaned and loaded. The guns simply fired through it and thus the frayed tape residue you very often see around the gun ports.
I love digging out the details of stuff like this and knowing why these planes from WWII looked the way they did. I'm sure you do too, from your attention to detail.
12-25-2012, 10:01 AM
#1594
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: AIX EN PROVENCE, FRANCE, METROPOLITAN
Posts: 382
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
Hi Gary
The Corsair was my first weathered aircraft, so details are not really scale appearance
I built also 2 A10 as you can see in pics ( but this is off subject here, and if you want I can remove the pics )
Pics just to show some weathering details
Stan
The Corsair was my first weathered aircraft, so details are not really scale appearance
I built also 2 A10 as you can see in pics ( but this is off subject here, and if you want I can remove the pics )
Pics just to show some weathering details
Stan
12-25-2012, 10:03 AM
#1595
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
Hey, how about those cowl flaps now. As I mentioned, I was having problems logging onto RCU when I was doing this on the last one. Here is what I did.
I thought keeping them part of the fuselage as the full scale would be cool, and make the cowl removal easier.
The flaps are individually hinged, then a cable is run around them through guides glued to each flap. Two servos, working opposite of each other, pushes or pulls on the cable expanding and contracting it, pushing the flaps in and out. Attaching this mechanism to the front of the Corsair is especially easy because of the perfect place to put the servos, where the two top cowl flaps were deleted.
I thought keeping them part of the fuselage as the full scale would be cool, and make the cowl removal easier.
The flaps are individually hinged, then a cable is run around them through guides glued to each flap. Two servos, working opposite of each other, pushes or pulls on the cable expanding and contracting it, pushing the flaps in and out. Attaching this mechanism to the front of the Corsair is especially easy because of the perfect place to put the servos, where the two top cowl flaps were deleted.
12-25-2012, 10:05 AM
#1596
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
ORIGINAL: STAN-CAUSSEL
Hi Gary
The Corsair was my first weathered aircraft, so details are not really scale appearance
I built also 2 A10 as you can see in pics ( but this is off subject here, and if you want I can remove the pics )
Pics just to show some weathering details
Stan
Hi Gary
The Corsair was my first weathered aircraft, so details are not really scale appearance
I built also 2 A10 as you can see in pics ( but this is off subject here, and if you want I can remove the pics )
Pics just to show some weathering details
Stan
12-25-2012, 10:09 AM
#1597
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
First thing I do is establish where the cowl needs to mount. On the Corsair, this is already done for you because of how the cowl fits on the top. I established the length of the standoffs, and cut them from a piece of Oak dowel.
12-25-2012, 10:14 AM
#1598
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
I made two rings, one for the cowl flaps, the other for the cowl. I tapered the back of the ring for the cowl, and the front of the ring for the flaps. This gave the front edge of the flaps a place to go when open.
12-25-2012, 10:20 AM
#1599
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
Now, and this is important, I cut the flaps off the cowl, leaving them together. This way, when you glue them to the hinges, they all line up automatically. I didn't cut them apart till they were glued to the hinges.
12-25-2012, 10:29 AM
#1600
RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
Next, I got the plates mounted. First, the one mounted to the fuselage that will hold the flaps. I used sticks taped to the fuselage to center it. Then I mounted the front ring. The cowl flap ring is bolted through the firewall. The cowl ring is fastened from behind with three bolts and blind nuts on the front of the ring. This way you will reach your Allen wrench in the open cowl flaps to take the bolts off and remove the cowl. Very easy and very fast.