CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
11-16-2014, 09:31 AM
#2852
The tail and top fuselage lights are working again. The tail light has no lens. We use an LED that is the correct size and doubles for both. Very strong. We found that a lens on the back is very vulnerable to damage in transport and storage. The top light has a clear lens and is a blue LED.
11-16-2014, 10:33 AM
#2854
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Gary, Great job. I do not get tired looking over the work you do. I know about the tail light lens as I knocked the one of my Corsair when I took it out of my van. Thinking about a foam block to go over it during transport. And holding it on with rubber bands. Keep up the great work. JB
11-16-2014, 04:20 PM
#2855
Gary, Great job. I do not get tired looking over the work you do. I know about the tail light lens as I knocked the one of my Corsair when I took it out of my van. Thinking about a foam block to go over it during transport. And holding it on with rubber bands. Keep up the great work. JB
11-19-2014, 06:08 PM
#2856
Back on this repair, almost done. Fixed the gun sight and replaced the original coming with some better looking stock I found in the shop. I used to be able to go to the local hobby shop and get all this stuff right off the shelf. Not so much any more. Foamie ARFs have taken over. :-(
11-21-2014, 04:25 PM
#2857
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: London, UNITED KINGDOM
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We are sending Big Hog's gear back to down & Locked for some updates. Gave me a chance to get some pictures of the gear and the strut cover.
First, hear is a shot of the gear fully retracted. See the gap between the frame and the scissor.
Here is the mounting system for the front cover.
First, hear is a shot of the gear fully retracted. See the gap between the frame and the scissor.
Here is the mounting system for the front cover.
Last edited by freddd; 11-22-2014 at 11:16 AM.
11-25-2014, 12:14 PM
#2859
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Thanks, so the counterforce to the springs is really via the piece of leather ?
i was looking through the quite good manual. I understand the rudder is removable via 2 screws. It also seems you can remove the stab (each side 3 screws, two for the carbon tube, one for the alumium tube) ? I'm thinking about transport but wonder if this would weaken the carbon tube over time?
Also it seems that the 2 screws for the carbon tube just go through the surface skin. Is that strong enough considering the forces exerted on this moving surface ?
i was looking through the quite good manual. I understand the rudder is removable via 2 screws. It also seems you can remove the stab (each side 3 screws, two for the carbon tube, one for the alumium tube) ? I'm thinking about transport but wonder if this would weaken the carbon tube over time?
Also it seems that the 2 screws for the carbon tube just go through the surface skin. Is that strong enough considering the forces exerted on this moving surface ?
11-25-2014, 03:16 PM
#2860
Thanks, so the counterforce to the springs is really via the piece of leather ?
i was looking through the quite good manual. I understand the rudder is removable via 2 screws. It also seems you can remove the stab (each side 3 screws, two for the carbon tube, one for the alumium tube) ? I'm thinking about transport but wonder if this would weaken the carbon tube over time?
Also it seems that the 2 screws for the carbon tube just go through the surface skin. Is that strong enough considering the forces exerted on this moving surface ?
i was looking through the quite good manual. I understand the rudder is removable via 2 screws. It also seems you can remove the stab (each side 3 screws, two for the carbon tube, one for the alumium tube) ? I'm thinking about transport but wonder if this would weaken the carbon tube over time?
Also it seems that the 2 screws for the carbon tube just go through the surface skin. Is that strong enough considering the forces exerted on this moving surface ?
yes, the rudder is removable via the two screws on top of the vertical stab.
Yes, the horizontal stabs are also removable. Yes, they are held on by one each, 4mm (I think) cap screw, but this is counter sunk into the epoxy that holds the stab tube in place, not just the skin, same as the ones that bolt the elevators to the carbon fiber torque rod.
12-09-2014, 09:40 AM
#2863
Here is an updated picture of the scale exhaust kit we have for the Moki. New are the wide clamps. If you are using the cowl flap option, you will want to use the round clamp on the pipe end and the flat one on the engine end of the flex pipe.
12-09-2014, 11:31 AM
#2866
Number of options. Paint type as in restored vs war time appearance. These are a few of the variables. Every build is a little different. Plus, I do something special on each one. A surprise for the owner.
We have two complete builds already in the shop. And two more coming for ourselves. It would be next spring till we could accept another one. Pm me with your desired specs and I'll get you a quote.
12-09-2014, 03:55 PM
#2868
I am constantly improving the exhaust system.
All jigs have been updated as well as the tig welding process.
To everyone that have purchased a set ... enjoy.
Dan
12-10-2014, 06:47 PM
#2869
BTW, the round clamps work just fine. The flat ones that Dan has found look to be a little more user friendly and that is why they will be included with all orders going forward. No need to retro fit if you are among our many friends around the world who have already received your pipes.
12-12-2014, 06:49 PM
#2870
I was asked about the folding wing system from Down & Locked. A builder is having some problems with his system. Here is my reply. Thought it might help others as well. Hope so.
" Hello Geir. I have not had a problem with the Down & Locked system lifting the wings on the planes that I have worked on. We use a product called Tri-Flow to lubricate both the jack screw and hinge points. Also, Mitch has solved the transmission problems and has cleared us to go back to the 7.4V LiPo batteries for the gear and wings. This will give you a little more power. Another thing we do is to put the whole electric system for the wings (battery, and control box for both the wings and gear), in the center section. This keeps all the wires from the power source to the motors very short. We get good power to the motors and have no problems.
On the speed of the motors, keep in mind that each electric motor has it's own "personality". If one is a little slower that the other, put the slower one on the left wing. On the full scale Corsair, the right wing was usually faster than the left, and your system will operate in a very scale fashion.
" Hello Geir. I have not had a problem with the Down & Locked system lifting the wings on the planes that I have worked on. We use a product called Tri-Flow to lubricate both the jack screw and hinge points. Also, Mitch has solved the transmission problems and has cleared us to go back to the 7.4V LiPo batteries for the gear and wings. This will give you a little more power. Another thing we do is to put the whole electric system for the wings (battery, and control box for both the wings and gear), in the center section. This keeps all the wires from the power source to the motors very short. We get good power to the motors and have no problems.
On the speed of the motors, keep in mind that each electric motor has it's own "personality". If one is a little slower that the other, put the slower one on the left wing. On the full scale Corsair, the right wing was usually faster than the left, and your system will operate in a very scale fashion.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 12-12-2014 at 09:31 PM.
12-21-2014, 11:03 AM
#2872
Join Date: Jul 2006
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I was asked about the folding wing system from Down & Locked. A builder is having some problems with his system. Here is my reply. Thought it might help others as well. Hope so.
" Hello Geir. I have not had a problem with the Down & Locked system lifting the wings on the planes that I have worked on. We use a product called Tri-Flow to lubricate both the jack screw and hinge points. Also, Mitch has solved the transmission problems and has cleared us to go back to the 7.4V LiPo batteries for the gear and wings. This will give you a little more power. Another thing we do is to put the whole electric system for the wings (battery, and control box for both the wings and gear), in the center section. This keeps all the wires from the power source to the motors very short. We get good power to the motors and have no problems.
On the speed of the motors, keep in mind that each electric motor has it's own "personality". If one is a little slower that the other, put the slower one on the left wing. On the full scale Corsair, the right wing was usually faster than the left, and your system will operate in a very scale fashion.
" Hello Geir. I have not had a problem with the Down & Locked system lifting the wings on the planes that I have worked on. We use a product called Tri-Flow to lubricate both the jack screw and hinge points. Also, Mitch has solved the transmission problems and has cleared us to go back to the 7.4V LiPo batteries for the gear and wings. This will give you a little more power. Another thing we do is to put the whole electric system for the wings (battery, and control box for both the wings and gear), in the center section. This keeps all the wires from the power source to the motors very short. We get good power to the motors and have no problems.
On the speed of the motors, keep in mind that each electric motor has it's own "personality". If one is a little slower that the other, put the slower one on the left wing. On the full scale Corsair, the right wing was usually faster than the left, and your system will operate in a very scale fashion.
Brg Geir
12-21-2014, 07:32 PM
#2875
Guns installed. We decided to go ahead and install the lights in the barrels even if an owner has opted out of the gun system. These and the speaker mount that is glued to the spar are very easy to install at this point. The rest of the system can be added later should a guy decide he wants them.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 12-21-2014 at 07:36 PM.
