CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
#2952
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Here is what we offer right now. We have had to adjust some prices due to increases in cost. We are always looking for better sources for materials, trying to hold costs or even lower them. If you have followed our threads, you know that all these items have been developed during builds for scale competition, and are specific to the CARF Corsair. We gladly and freely share what we do with all who may be interested, and following our threads will give some builders what they need to replicate our ideas. For those who would like to have the parts and some additional instruction, again, here is the list.
More is in development. Coming are inner door skins, gear bay detail, a resin tail hook, hinge covers, a resin antenna, and the list continues.
We are here for support, or just to talk Corsairs.
As always, thank you for your support in what we do.
- complete light system with all Nav and formations lights, lenses, and complete wire harness $495
- custom gun system with both lights and sound $475
- cowl flap kit that converts your cowl flaps to scale operating ones $210
- scale aluminum instrument panel with aluminum bezels, instruments, and other details $125
- top fuselage hatch kit $95
- bottom center wing hatch kit $95
- wing gun port fairings (included with the gun system) $10 / set (both wings) (included with the gun system)
- Moki stainless steel engine stand -offs (custom lengths to set the proper thrust) $25 / set with location info
- stainless steel exhaust for the Moki 215 / 250 with mounting hardware and shrouds $225
- canopy slider kit $135
- electric drive system based on Down and Locked components, with a custom spreader system to connect to my canopy slider system $300 (this all mounts in front of the cockpit)
- Scale wing intakes /set (ready to install) $275
More is in development. Coming are inner door skins, gear bay detail, a resin tail hook, hinge covers, a resin antenna, and the list continues.
We are here for support, or just to talk Corsairs.
As always, thank you for your support in what we do.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 02-16-2015 at 04:07 PM.
#2953
Thread Starter
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Intakes installed. They usually will require a little body filler to blend them in nicely.
Before you install them, this inside of the opening needs to be curved with a Dremel drum sander. This is scale. Also in this shot, you can look through the vanes and see the bolts where the big gun speakers will be mounted, pointing right at those vanes.
Before you install them, this inside of the opening needs to be curved with a Dremel drum sander. This is scale. Also in this shot, you can look through the vanes and see the bolts where the big gun speakers will be mounted, pointing right at those vanes.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 02-21-2015 at 01:47 PM.
#2954
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Here Brian is working on getting the gear covers fitting better. They are a mess on this aircraft. This was poorly done by the previous owner.
We have already sent the gear and wing arms back to Down and locked and had the transmissions upgraded. Good turn around and they are good to go.
We have already sent the gear and wing arms back to Down and locked and had the transmissions upgraded. Good turn around and they are good to go.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 02-21-2015 at 01:48 PM.
#2955
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I'd like to let all of you know that we will have another item available in a few days. Brian has been redesigning the way we mount the strut cover to simplify it but also retain the look on the full scale with the leather cover. He is making extra parts of everything needed so we will have another, what shall we call it, the strut cover installation kit. It will consist of a spacer that will go between the cover / door, bolts for mounting the door, the aluminum straps that attach the 'leather', the material for the flexible cover / leather, screws for the straps, and probably a template to make cutting these doors out easier.
The idea is to retain the look of the full scale, without needing to articulate the door up and down on the strut. This also eliminates the concern you have with the tire possibly coming in contact with the door if the strut bottoms out on a rough landing or bounce, as can happen if you articulate the strut cover.
I'll be posting pictures of all this in a couple days.
Here is what I'm referring to and basically the way it will look.
The idea is to retain the look of the full scale, without needing to articulate the door up and down on the strut. This also eliminates the concern you have with the tire possibly coming in contact with the door if the strut bottoms out on a rough landing or bounce, as can happen if you articulate the strut cover.
I'll be posting pictures of all this in a couple days.
Here is what I'm referring to and basically the way it will look.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 02-26-2015 at 09:10 PM.
#2957
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
The air tanks in place with spray foam in the rear of the center section. A new device from Down and Locked is on the horizon to replace the air cylinders we use on the main gear doors. It will be much smaller than the electric devices currently available for gear doors. I'll be glad to be able to eliminate this air system as well.
#2958
Thread Starter
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The gear doors are being fitted on Bruce's plane. This has been a challenge. The original builder did a very poor job cutting these out. Also, the gear was mounted too far back so that it was binding up against the spar as it tried to retract. All this has been fixed. I will shore up the gear door fit prior to getting started on the paint, which is getting very close on the wing.
Here is where we bring the wires through the center section on the folding wing version. On the plug-in version conduit is necessary because this is where the wing tube would go. This hole is in no way weakening the spar.
Here is where we bring the wires through the center section on the folding wing version. On the plug-in version conduit is necessary because this is where the wing tube would go. This hole is in no way weakening the spar.
#2960
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Nashua, NH
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Hi Gary,
What is your preferred method for cutting the carbon fiber gear doors. I have started by scoring the panel lines with an exacto so I don't slip. Best option seems like the thin dremel disk but I was wondering if you had an option that was a little thinner. Could continue with the exacto. Time consuming but so far creating very nice thin straight lines but probably don't need to go quite so thin since space needs to be allowed for gear door movement.
Thanks,
Woody
What is your preferred method for cutting the carbon fiber gear doors. I have started by scoring the panel lines with an exacto so I don't slip. Best option seems like the thin dremel disk but I was wondering if you had an option that was a little thinner. Could continue with the exacto. Time consuming but so far creating very nice thin straight lines but probably don't need to go quite so thin since space needs to be allowed for gear door movement.
Thanks,
Woody
#2961
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
Hi Gary,
What is your preferred method for cutting the carbon fiber gear doors. I have started by scoring the panel lines with an exacto so I don't slip. Best option seems like the thin dremel disk but I was wondering if you had an option that was a little thinner. Could continue with the exacto. Time consuming but so far creating very nice thin straight lines but probably don't need to go quite so thin since space needs to be allowed for gear door movement.
Thanks,
Woody
What is your preferred method for cutting the carbon fiber gear doors. I have started by scoring the panel lines with an exacto so I don't slip. Best option seems like the thin dremel disk but I was wondering if you had an option that was a little thinner. Could continue with the exacto. Time consuming but so far creating very nice thin straight lines but probably don't need to go quite so thin since space needs to be allowed for gear door movement.
Thanks,
Woody
We use very thin diamond engrained cutting wheels on the Dremmel, not the common composite wheels. They are about 1/2 as thick. Also, Brian always uses the remote wand attachment. Because it is so thin, it is easy to keep your cutting wheel at a right angle to your surface, important to making thin cuts. I use the right angle attachment to accomplish the same thing. Either way is much better than the stock Dremmel motor for this type cutting.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 03-03-2015 at 06:49 PM.
#2964
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
I was also asked awhile back about what kind of screw we use to mount the gear on the Corsair. We use #8 wood screws now. We have gone to the trouble of installing T-nuts in the past, but the wood screws have proven over time to be just fine. If you pull them out, you have much bigger problems. It is what CARF figures to use, and again, no need to rethink this one.
#2971
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For very clean thin cuts look into Zona hand saws. There are a variety of blades and handles. Take care with carbon fiber as it will wear out a steel blade but if you figure to use the saw only for that purpose then the cost verses the finish is acceptable I think. The slot width is literally about 20-25 thousandths of an inch or less. You can buy individual blades too.
#2972
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
For very clean thin cuts look into Zona hand saws. There are a variety of blades and handles. Take care with carbon fiber as it will wear out a steel blade but if you figure to use the saw only for that purpose then the cost verses the finish is acceptable I think. The slot width is literally about 20-25 thousandths of an inch or less. You can buy individual blades too.
thanks for mentioning it.
#2973
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An update for those of you who purchase our upgrade parts.
I am close to having our web site ready to open. In addition to being a place to go for items, manuals, and general building tips, it will also serve as an online photo album of helpful pictures to aid in the installation of all these mods. Should make the installs very easy with, in most cases, step by step pictures. this is much easier than say CDs or sending them via emails and such.
I am close to having our web site ready to open. In addition to being a place to go for items, manuals, and general building tips, it will also serve as an online photo album of helpful pictures to aid in the installation of all these mods. Should make the installs very easy with, in most cases, step by step pictures. this is much easier than say CDs or sending them via emails and such.
#2974
My Feedback: (3)
Cool, looking fwd to your site.
I'm chomping at the bit to work on mine but Im so busy plus lack space at the moment. I dont like working in confined spaces especially on this big project. Ive collected just about everything I need too as far as the base components to make it functional. Im debating how much fabrication I want to do verses buying your parts! Lol
I'm chomping at the bit to work on mine but Im so busy plus lack space at the moment. I dont like working in confined spaces especially on this big project. Ive collected just about everything I need too as far as the base components to make it functional. Im debating how much fabrication I want to do verses buying your parts! Lol
#2975
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
Cool, looking fwd to your site.
I'm chomping at the bit to work on mine but Im so busy plus lack space at the moment. I dont like working in confined spaces especially on this big project. Ive collected just about everything I need too as far as the base components to make it functional. Im debating how much fabrication I want to do verses buying your parts! Lol
I'm chomping at the bit to work on mine but Im so busy plus lack space at the moment. I dont like working in confined spaces especially on this big project. Ive collected just about everything I need too as far as the base components to make it functional. Im debating how much fabrication I want to do verses buying your parts! Lol
You will never here me discourage someone from doing what we do, to make a 'sale'. We don't do this for monetary gain. Our time is still worth something though, and we both have invested in a lot of equipment to do what we do, not to mention years of developing a skill set.
The idea is to make it easier for those who don't have the space, time, or equipment to build better scale aircraft, knowing how satisfying it is to own, and fly them.
Most of our contract builds are for guys who are capable builders, who just don't have the time or space to take on these giants, or who appreciate the depth of our experience with these aircraft and don't see the need to go through the learning curve, which in some ways is considerable.
For others, like us, the building, engineering, and designing, is as much fun as the rest, plus for us, sharing is gratifying.
Many have done what we do in different ways just as good or even better. I'm amazed at what is out there and what many talented builders can accomplish. Wish I had better computer skills, and more machining capabilities among other things. But I'm always on the lookout for new ideas and better techniques, and I learn a lot from other builders as well.
Bottom line I guess, whether you have your own way of building, watch us and get ideas you can use in your own building, or purchase our parts, it's all good. If in the end, you have enjoyed the process, and have a better Corsair, mission accomplished.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 03-04-2015 at 11:04 PM.