CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
#3028
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
For the front rails, I glue wood wedges to the inside of the sides as shown (the full scale has these as well). These wedges kept the rails parallel as the full scale canopy can't flex as our model canopies can I use the straight edge to keep them perpendicular to the opening, so the rails are not leaning in. Careful alignment at this stage makes for a true running rail system.
#3031
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
With the rails installed the clear is fit to the canopy frame. A lip around the front of the moving section that interlocks into the front fixed section is useful. I use the clear plastic to make this lip by cutting it 3/32 long for the rear section. You can see the lip and how it guides the slider into place in these pictures.
#3032
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
First I mark on the inside where the frame will be cut apart. Then I tape the clear in place. Next I use tape to mark where that separation will be on the clear. Now I can cut the clear 3/32 in front of the tape, creating the lip when clued in place.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 05-08-2015 at 08:57 PM.
#3033
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
With the clear ready to be installed, I get the frame ready. I use (22) stainless steel bolts to secure the clear to the frame in addition to RC 56. The location is marked on this frame in black. They are Phillip flat head and the same size as the ones embossed in the frame. I'll use a counter sink on the spots I want to use. This is easier BEFORE you cut the frame apart.
#3034
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My Feedback: (221)
For reinforcement, I install an aluminum doubler inside the sliding portion. This also has the mounting points connected to it in both the front and rear. Because through bolts like the ones attaching the frame to the clear would scrape on the fuselage, I drill and tap these 1/8" 2-56 bolts into the aluminum and make sure they are flush on the inside. The locations are noted here in blue. There will be one more in the rear that will also be the rear mount, and (2) more in the front that WILL be through bolts holding the front mounts.
I tape the inside of the clear during this process because when you grind the bolts flush to the aluminum, the tiny hot metal debris will pit the soft clear plastic if left exposed.
I tape the inside of the clear during this process because when you grind the bolts flush to the aluminum, the tiny hot metal debris will pit the soft clear plastic if left exposed.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 05-08-2015 at 09:24 PM.
#3035
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
Some minor trimming may be needed to the aluminum doubler if you have a slider kit.
Note. This canopy system has been flown in the open position, as with scale take - offs and landings, with no harm to the canopy. It is very strong, and you WILL NOT lose it.
Note. This canopy system has been flown in the open position, as with scale take - offs and landings, with no harm to the canopy. It is very strong, and you WILL NOT lose it.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 05-08-2015 at 09:20 PM.
#3036
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Nashua, NH
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Hey Gary,
Got the glass cutout of the wheel well for the gear install with the gear mounted as far forward per your recommendation. Looks to fit nicely if I adjust the axle so that it is not flush with the gear leg. About 1/4" sticks out which I expect I will cut off. Do you know what bag contains the gear mounting hardware? I don't really see hardware that matches, looks like I should be providing my own as all of the bags seem to be labeled for other uses. Do you have recommendations for screw lengths, looks like countersinking the forward inner screw would provide the best clearance for the permanent covers. Do you see any issues with this?
Thanks,
John
Got the glass cutout of the wheel well for the gear install with the gear mounted as far forward per your recommendation. Looks to fit nicely if I adjust the axle so that it is not flush with the gear leg. About 1/4" sticks out which I expect I will cut off. Do you know what bag contains the gear mounting hardware? I don't really see hardware that matches, looks like I should be providing my own as all of the bags seem to be labeled for other uses. Do you have recommendations for screw lengths, looks like countersinking the forward inner screw would provide the best clearance for the permanent covers. Do you see any issues with this?
Thanks,
John
#3037
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
Hey Gary,
Got the glass cutout of the wheel well for the gear install with the gear mounted as far forward per your recommendation. Looks to fit nicely if I adjust the axle so that it is not flush with the gear leg. About 1/4" sticks out which I expect I will cut off. Do you know what bag contains the gear mounting hardware? I don't really see hardware that matches, looks like I should be providing my own as all of the bags seem to be labeled for other uses. Do you have recommendations for screw lengths, looks like countersinking the forward inner screw would provide the best clearance for the permanent covers. Do you see any issues with this?
Thanks,
John
Got the glass cutout of the wheel well for the gear install with the gear mounted as far forward per your recommendation. Looks to fit nicely if I adjust the axle so that it is not flush with the gear leg. About 1/4" sticks out which I expect I will cut off. Do you know what bag contains the gear mounting hardware? I don't really see hardware that matches, looks like I should be providing my own as all of the bags seem to be labeled for other uses. Do you have recommendations for screw lengths, looks like countersinking the forward inner screw would provide the best clearance for the permanent covers. Do you see any issues with this?
Thanks,
John
They do NOT give you those screws (probably because the gear is not part of the kit). We add additional wood under the mounting rails and use #8 X 1" wood screws. You can use hex head hardened wood screws for extra strength. With most warbirds we use machine screws and T-nuts, but in the case of the CARF Corsair, the #8 screws are plenty strong and will not come loose, and are much easier to install with the proper pilot hole. With the #8 you may need to drill the gear holes just slightly, but we still prefer them to a smaller #6 that wood be slightly smaller than the holes.
If you are building a newer kit, the extra wood under the mounting rails is probably already installed.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 05-10-2015 at 06:41 PM.
#3038
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
Here are some pictures. No countersinking is necessary or recommended. Brian uses stainless steel pan heads, or button heads. I think the strongest would be hardened hex heads, but we have never broken any of the a fore mentioned screws.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 05-10-2015 at 06:57 PM.
#3041
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
I'm always looking for better ways to do things. To that end, I am trying something different on the canopy I am doing. This time, before cutting the frame apart I drilled and counter sunk all the screw locations, then I painted the inside with flat black. I then Glued the front fixed part in the canopy with RC 56. Next I taped the slider section of clear in place. Now I finished drilling through the clear and installed all the 2-56 stainless bolts and nuts.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 05-13-2015 at 08:35 PM.
#3042
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
Now I installed the aluminum doubler. This is drilled and tapped because nuts would rub on the fuselage. I use (7) 2-56 X 1/8 stainless steel bolts on each side.
My plan is to mount the canopy as one piece this time, before cutting it apart. This should make alinement perfect and easy.
My plan is to mount the canopy as one piece this time, before cutting it apart. This should make alinement perfect and easy.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 05-13-2015 at 08:38 PM.
#3043
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
For those waiting on the inner gear door detail panels, the molds are in the final stages of being tweaked. Production should begin very shortly. I'll use these two currant builds to make sure all is well with the finished product and then we will make them available. I plan an initial discount to anyone who has already ordered parts from us in the past as thanks for your support.
The hinge covers are already in production.
The hinge covers are already in production.
#3044
My Feedback: (18)
For those waiting on the inner gear door detail panels, the molds are in the final stages of being tweaked. Production should begin very shortly. I'll use these two currant builds to make sure all is well with the finished product and then we will make them available. I plan an initial discount to anyone who has already ordered parts from us in the past as thanks for your support.
The hinge covers are already in production.
The hinge covers are already in production.
#3046
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
Here is the current list of options.
1. scale lighting system with all nav and formation lights with all custom lenses and LED lights with support supplies
2. complete gun system with lights and sound including the gun port fairings and simulated barrels
3. operational cowl flap system
4. scale wing intakes ready to install
5. canopy sliding kit with hardware to mount the clear to the frame
6. electric canopy drive system designed to work with our slider
7. top hatch kit including the parts to create the switch compartment
8. bottom hatch kit including the swing down panel for easy service of the wing systems
9. scale aluminum instrument panel with aluminum bezels and all dials
10. custom Moki engine standoffs set to create the proper thrust angles
11. main gear strut cover leather gap cover kit
12. scale stainless steel functional exhaust system with shrouds made for the Moki
13. wing gun port fairings (included with the gun system)
Things soon to be available include the gear door inner detail, wing hinges covers, resin break discs, and maybe a resin tail hook. Both my brother and I do this as a sideline to regular jobs, so time is really what limits our ability to do more. Maybe someday I will be able to retire to my hobby. :-)
1. scale lighting system with all nav and formation lights with all custom lenses and LED lights with support supplies
2. complete gun system with lights and sound including the gun port fairings and simulated barrels
3. operational cowl flap system
4. scale wing intakes ready to install
5. canopy sliding kit with hardware to mount the clear to the frame
6. electric canopy drive system designed to work with our slider
7. top hatch kit including the parts to create the switch compartment
8. bottom hatch kit including the swing down panel for easy service of the wing systems
9. scale aluminum instrument panel with aluminum bezels and all dials
10. custom Moki engine standoffs set to create the proper thrust angles
11. main gear strut cover leather gap cover kit
12. scale stainless steel functional exhaust system with shrouds made for the Moki
13. wing gun port fairings (included with the gun system)
Things soon to be available include the gear door inner detail, wing hinges covers, resin break discs, and maybe a resin tail hook. Both my brother and I do this as a sideline to regular jobs, so time is really what limits our ability to do more. Maybe someday I will be able to retire to my hobby. :-)
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 05-23-2015 at 04:59 PM.
#3048
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (221)
I tape the canopy back in place and drill for those rear bolts. Then I countersink and install those bolts with the modified nuts that travel in the rails.
You can also see the hole that needs to be opened up just behind the rails so that nut can be inserted in the rails.
You can also see the hole that needs to be opened up just behind the rails so that nut can be inserted in the rails.