ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

With this all done, it was time to finally cut the thing apart. I was able to do this with my right angle dremmel and a diamond cutting wheel without cutting through the clear plastic (already cut apart in a previous step).

Now for the drive system.

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

Gary, what are you using to countersink the holes? The countersinks I have are pretty big, just wondering if you had a cooler tool ? ;-)

ir3

My Feedback: (42)

Hi Gary,

I just signed up. The Corsair build is magnificent. A suggestion on counter sinks. Get a deburring tool from Aircraft Spruce or some other aircraft tool supplier. You can control the depth of the counter sink very accurately. I am not sure of the angle but I think it is correct for most common flat head screws.

Looking forward to the next update.

IR3

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

I have several counter sinks that I use. The one that fits these 2-56 machine screws very good is from a set I found at Harbor Freight. I'll post a picture, but it is part of a set of three that they sell.

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

Dremel at HD has some that work great, also any tap will have a counter sink on the end for the size you are using.

TB

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Forest of Corsair gear, all converted to electric by Down and Locked.

jchorak

My Feedback: (9)

[QUOTE=ram3500-RCU;12078246]Forest of Corsair gear, all converted to electric by Down and Locked.

[/QUOTEbebe


Beautiful forest......

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Cranking this thread up. Need to catch up. :-)

woody242

Hi Gary,

Any updates on new parts or your website? I am starting back up on my bird, got my gear doors and permanent covers cut out. Doing some final fitting and tweaks. Gear is in. Looks they just fit. The tabs for the cylinder mount touch the spar. I am wondering if it save to grind a bit off to gain a touch more clearance? Have yo done this. Another alternative would be to take a little off the inside of the gear doors.

I am interested if you are planning on offering more scale hinges for the doors?

Thanks,
Woody

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Hello Woody. It's been a very busy year so far. Sorry for the lack of activity here. I'll do some posting this evening and address your questions. Gotta run for now.

henderyckx bruno

Here some pics of my strut door solution,grtz Bruno

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Nice solution to this part of the gear. CARF gives very little help in this area.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

I like it.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Just needs our 'leather' cover now.

woody242

Hi Gary,

Update to my hinge question. What materials are the ones you have used made from. I am thinking making a set from aluminum as I have a small mill. They seem fairly simple. Aluminum may be overkill but I think that they are small enough that weight won't matter. Also if you have updated pricing I am interested in your leather covers.

Thanks,
Woody

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

If you mean the parts holding the strut cover, Brian (my brother and 'wing'man) uses brass.

As for the gap covers, he was working on finding a material that would look like leather, but be thinner and more scale like yet flexible. He found it and it has far better elasticity than does actual leather as we used before. The result is that the strut cover can be fixed to the gear because this material stretches over the slightly larger gap. We are installing these on these currant builds and if it works as we think, they will be made available to you all.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Why would the leather need to be elastic? The full scale leather hinge is bunched a bit when the gear is down..

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Yes. But think about scaling down leather so it is pliable. The challenge in modeling. Some materials can't be scaled down. So we found a leather like material that is more to the scale thickness and thus pliable and stretches some so less bunching is necessary. This will be even more important if a modeler uses HB's method of hinging the cover to the leading edge. Not much room there for bunching anything.

woody242

Hi Gary,

Thanks for the info, I am actually referring to the actual gear door hinges. I want to do something like the ones you got from Graham Mears offset hinges. I thought you were making something like that as well.

Thanks,
Woody

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Ahh, not yet. A lot of work in the molds for those that I just don't have time for right now. I am salivating over these 3D printers and think they could be used for things like this. I want one that is designed for dummies like me that could not write the programs. I'm waiting for an affordable one that scans the object and then duplicates it. I know they exist now, but the price is way more than I can afford. What a tool that would be for scale builders!

woody242

Well, I guess that means I have no excuses to not make it myself . I have a small tabletop cmc mill, not sure about cutting fiberglass on the mill so I will likely make them from aluminum.


Thanks for the info,
Woody

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

I would like to have that equipment and skill set. Feel free to post pictures of them here. We would all love to see what you come up with. The Robart aluminum offset hinges would do the trick, but hardly look scale. The ARF version comes already hinged in an unscale fashion, but can easily be retrofitted.

woody242

Will keep you posted on the development.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Yes, please do.

ram3500-RCU

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Wing work for Dennis.