saramos

Here's my latest test print. While doing the print, I found an error in the internal ribs where the ribs were not making full contact to the center hub. I've corrected the model and will have to do another print. I also improved the look of the face of the wheel with a more scale looking reinforcements around the spokes.

Scott

ram3500-RCU

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When installing the hinges on the cowl flaps I use a 1/32 shim to flush out the hinge point with the cowl plate.

ram3500-RCU

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Pitot tubes. The root is glued in and the tube unscrews for easy transport and storage.

IFLYBVM2

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Is the pitot one of the items you sell as an accessory ?

ram3500-RCU

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Not at this time. Brian makes these by hand without the benefit of a machine shop. Takes too long to be able to charge for just these. We make them for our own builds though.

DrScoles

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Good to see you back at it Gary! My corsair is in storage…. A bunch of jets got in the way. Plan on bringing it back out soon.

ram3500-RCU

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Thanks Doc. Been a tough stretch for us and I still have a few things to do on the house including moving my shop but I am able to get back to work on these things anyway. Feels good to be making progress again. I have some very patient modelers I'm working with and it is much appreciated.

ram3500-RCU

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One of the things that needed fixed on this build was the elevators. The previous builder had cut the CF rod connecting them (in order to use two servos) and glued the sections onto the elevators, locking the pivot rods in and making it impossible to remove the elevators for painting. He also did a poor job of installing the bearings. This is completely unnecessary. One strong servo has proven to be sufficient. I also like the way the bearings work when the rod goes straight through. The elevator hinge points were also not installed straight so that the gap was drastically different from one side to the other.

This was all fixed, starting with new elevators. These fit perfectly to the original stabs due to the excellent manufacturing process of CARF. The holes in the left stab hinge roots were adjusted in the process. New bearings, new rod, new tiller, and new elevators, shown here before I installed the tiller.

The last picture is of the structure that the locking screw for the elevator goes in. This is an older kit that is still wood. The new kits have CF reinforcement in this area, as does the new elevators this ship is now fitted with.

JSZ

My Feedback: (73)

Nice work! Hope all is well at home. Package is on its way

ram3500-RCU

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Thanks John. Things are getting back to normal. Mom is adjusting well so far. She seems to be comfortable and content for now. No problems so far. What an ordeal though.

This plane was in bad shape. It was originally the kit version. The name Comp ARF is deceiving. Sure, it is a composite aircraft, but the kit form requires great precision in assembly/building. The tail components, tail gear, main gear, doors, wing folding system, and outer panels all needed fixed to some degree. We were provided with a new hardware package, new elevators, and a new cowl. With these parts, and all our mods, In spite of her beginning, she will be an awesome ship. The owner wants to do 'Marines Dream', a good looking ship.

Zorba1

Hi Gary, I'm about to start my built of the Corsair and I was wondering where can I get the actuators (air pistons) for the main gear and tail gear doors. They don't come with the kit.
Also I like to know why you covered the surface with aluminum foil then paint it instead of just paint the composite, any reason for that?
Did you had to sand the surface smooth before applying the foil? then do the rivets all over again?
Thanks
BILL

ram3500-RCU

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Hello Bill. I'll check with my brother on the size and travel of the cylinders. He does that work for us.

ram3500-RCU

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On the reason for the aluminum, we use it where we intend to do paint chipping and weathering for an authentic exposed aluminum look. Leading edges, hatches, top front of the wing root where Corsairs are prone to loose paint, around the cowl bowl, cowl flaps, etc. The surface is sanded and prepped as you would for paint prior to applying the aluminum. Then the aluminum is wet sanded with 400 prior to paint to dull it down and remove the inevitable orange peel appearance from the adhesive.

I also use it where screws and other fasteners will be detailed as this is very easy to do in the aluminum vs the composite surface. In the case of a ship that is going to competition including static judging, for more accurate hatch detail on the CARF Corsair, I sand off the molded details and replace them with my own out of aluminum foil. The stock CARF Corsair is not "museum" scale out of the box. Very good in general, but not for static judging in competition by skilled judges (unless of course you can find 3-views that are as bad as it is). But it can be made very competitive as has been proven.

If the model is being made to look newly manufactured or freshly restored, only the later areas will get the aluminum treatment.

On the "rivets" the Corsair had very few of them as the skin was spot welded in large part, not riveted as most other aircraft of the day. Most of the front panels around the nose were removable and thus screwed on. That is why the fastener detail on the panel lines aft of the cockpit are so subtle. Spot welds would be hard to see in our scale.

Also remember, while we are on this subject, that both horizontal stabs are identical on the full size Corsair, built in the same fixture. When installed, the inspection discs face up on the port side, and down on the starboard. One of the new elevators (on these there is a left and right) I found embossed on the inside end, what looks like an L, but this surface was actually the right one has the inspection disc inspection disc on the top inboard, faces up on the right side. Early Corsairs and FG Corsairs had a single screw in the middle of the discs, Later models had 3. Probable got mix matched in the field, I would imagine.

This stuff will drive you crazy :

Zorba1

Wow Thank you Gary for the detailed info. I just took her out of the box and I'm already going crazy.
Cheers

Zorba1

Gary is the brass channel available or you cut the groove on a square tubing?

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

?I cut the slot in sqaure tubing. I have a jig made for this. Boy do i miss Barry.
On the cylinders, we are using Robart 1 1/8" throw, 3/8 bore. Shulman had some nice ones but he isn't selling them now.

Zorba1

Gary do you have the dimensions of this ply? or a template to cut from?

Zorba1

Hi Gary what is the name of your site?

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

The plywood firewall is part of the CARF kit. It consists of 3 plywood discs. One large one on the inside, another on the outside, and a smaller one in the center on the outside, sandwiching the composite.

ram3500-RCU

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No website. My email is [email protected]

ram3500-RCU

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I do have a template for the bolt locations for the Moki 250/215. These engines have very little clearance in the cowl and must be centered. The 257 7 cylinder has more clearance as it is a little smaller in diameter. I use the mold lines as a bench mark and not the plywood firewall as it may vary from plane to plane. Hope this makes sense.

Zorba1

No Gary I mean the one where the cowl mounts the one with all the holes.

Bill

jchorak

My Feedback: (9)

Brian from dbalsa.com whipped me up the correct armour plating and headrest for the 1D version I am doing.

ram3500-RCU

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Oh, daaaa, sorry Bill. My stainless steel cowl flap stand-offs are designed around using 3/16" ply for the rings. With thicker ply, shorter ones would have to be used. They are 18.2 MM with the 3/16 ply or .71".

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Very cool. Some have commented to me about the heavy nature of the DB resin parts. IMO, it is just not an issue on this plane. The air frame itself is very light, plus, she still flies exceptionally well even at upwards of 70lbs, probably 15 lbs or so more than most will finish out with most scale detail and folding wings.