CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
01-20-2016, 09:58 PM
#3177
Next I glue the clear over the back of the bezels with RC 56 and set it aside to dry. Next will come the instrument faces, glued to the back of the clear with more RC 56. Being aluminum, it will not distort as it is being assembled.
I supply the laser cut aluminum panel, machined aluminum bezels, clear plastic, instrument faces, (52) tiny 0 x 1/4 coated screws, the stall warning light with label, and some more detail.
More after this dries.
I supply the laser cut aluminum panel, machined aluminum bezels, clear plastic, instrument faces, (52) tiny 0 x 1/4 coated screws, the stall warning light with label, and some more detail.
More after this dries.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 01-20-2016 at 10:15 PM.
01-21-2016, 08:43 PM
#3178
We continue. Here is the instrument face sheet. For the compass, the sheet has the modern version with the little jet in the middle. I simply block this out with a fine tip Sharpie. Looks pretty good. The rest of the gauges suffice.
Here the cut outs are placed on the back of the clear and held on with magnets. This way you can flip it over and simply slide them around to easily line them up with the bezels all at one time, prior to gluing any of them. I use (26) 1/4x 1/16 rare earth magnets for this.
Here the cut outs are placed on the back of the clear and held on with magnets. This way you can flip it over and simply slide them around to easily line them up with the bezels all at one time, prior to gluing any of them. I use (26) 1/4x 1/16 rare earth magnets for this.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 01-23-2016 at 04:55 AM.
01-21-2016, 08:46 PM
#3179
Once I'm satisfied with the placement of the instrument faces, I glue them with a drop of RC 56 or Zap canopy glue on the corners. Once dry, it is on to adding the tiny screws.
Again, if you scratch it at this point, great, more patina.
Again, if you scratch it at this point, great, more patina.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 01-21-2016 at 08:55 PM.
01-21-2016, 09:33 PM
#3180
Here is a short video we made on the installation of the mains on the Corsair. We have a few tips based on our experience that we would like to share.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=8TBIu4IozK4
www.youtube.com/watch?v=8TBIu4IozK4
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 01-21-2016 at 09:58 PM.
01-22-2016, 06:03 PM
#3182
Glue dry. Now I can install the screws. (52) 0 x 1/4 screws. I am waiting on some block onyx screws, but I used these steel coated ones and then painted the tops. A little more experimenting to see what looks better. The screws are different paint than the panel. When done I cut off the excess on the back.
For now, on to other details on the panel.
For now, on to other details on the panel.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 01-22-2016 at 06:26 PM.
01-23-2016, 05:28 AM
#3184
Now I will do one to "museum scale" with this aluminum panel. I think it would be hard to do this with any other material, but with the aluminum parts, I think it can be done. It is strong and thick enough to countersink.
Here is an actual WWII untouched (not restored) panel from a Goodyear built cockpit that resides in a museum a few minutes from my house. Notice a few things here. The bezels around the dials are thin and some fit better than others (i will insert my aluminum bezels from the back). There are Philips screws in them not straight slots (as some pre-built panels have that are on the market). Notice that they are countersunk. WOW! Those are some tiny holes to countersink at 1-1/4.5 scale. But on this one, I will have to find a way, and I will also switch to 0 x 1/4 flat head Phillips screws to get as close to this look as possible. I can obsess over these stupid little details sometimes. It is a disease I think. :-(
- First, I will countersink all those little holes.
- I will insert the bezels in from the back and glue them in with thin Zap.
- Then on to paint
- Then the clear will go on as before
- ditto the dials
- this time I will use the flat head screws
- Then we will compare these pictures
OK. Lets get started with this crazyness.
By the way, this one will be installed in Bruce's Corsair.
Here is an actual WWII untouched (not restored) panel from a Goodyear built cockpit that resides in a museum a few minutes from my house. Notice a few things here. The bezels around the dials are thin and some fit better than others (i will insert my aluminum bezels from the back). There are Philips screws in them not straight slots (as some pre-built panels have that are on the market). Notice that they are countersunk. WOW! Those are some tiny holes to countersink at 1-1/4.5 scale. But on this one, I will have to find a way, and I will also switch to 0 x 1/4 flat head Phillips screws to get as close to this look as possible. I can obsess over these stupid little details sometimes. It is a disease I think. :-(
- First, I will countersink all those little holes.
- I will insert the bezels in from the back and glue them in with thin Zap.
- Then on to paint
- Then the clear will go on as before
- ditto the dials
- this time I will use the flat head screws
- Then we will compare these pictures
OK. Lets get started with this crazyness.
By the way, this one will be installed in Bruce's Corsair.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 01-23-2016 at 11:59 AM.
01-25-2016, 08:46 PM
#3190
After that is dry it is on to the little screws. I lay the panel on some 6mm foam so the excess of the screws has something soft to go into yet I can still keep pressure on the back of the panel as I work the screws into it.
Screws installed.
Screws installed.
01-29-2016, 07:43 PM
#3191
A friend in Australia is installing his lights so here are some details to help.
this is the full scale blue light on the top of the wings. It is slightly smaller than the three on the bottom, with a different bezel. Notice the three rings. 8 fasteners on the outer ring with 6 each on the inner 2. We accomplish this with the aluminum foil by overlapping the lens and the wing surface more or less depending on which light your working on. Make templates to cut the circles inside and outside, and then emboss the other details with sharpened brass tube with a strait blade screw driver for the Phillip screws (fasteners) and a #7 mechanical pencil (inner circles).
Here is a great look that shows the difference between the top and bottom formation lights. Again, we use the same size lenses and reduce the size with the aluminum foil.
The bottom formation lights (the larger ones) have 8 fasteners around the bezel.
this is the full scale blue light on the top of the wings. It is slightly smaller than the three on the bottom, with a different bezel. Notice the three rings. 8 fasteners on the outer ring with 6 each on the inner 2. We accomplish this with the aluminum foil by overlapping the lens and the wing surface more or less depending on which light your working on. Make templates to cut the circles inside and outside, and then emboss the other details with sharpened brass tube with a strait blade screw driver for the Phillip screws (fasteners) and a #7 mechanical pencil (inner circles).
Here is a great look that shows the difference between the top and bottom formation lights. Again, we use the same size lenses and reduce the size with the aluminum foil.
The bottom formation lights (the larger ones) have 8 fasteners around the bezel.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 01-29-2016 at 07:49 PM.
01-29-2016, 08:02 PM
#3192
Above you see the holes roughed in and then honed with a home made sanding tool out of a piece of dowel and adhesive back sand paper. The lights are glued in with CA and then covered with the aluminum foil.
You can also see that it gets a little tight in the tip, but you can make it work as shown.
01-30-2016, 03:00 PM
#3194
Here is a short video showing how we install the lenses in the wings. Thin CA is used as the adhesive.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=YZSNiSsZMbA
www.youtube.com/watch?v=YZSNiSsZMbA
01-30-2016, 03:53 PM
#3196
The newer ARFs that CARF produces already have blocks glued under the rails. We use to have to add these for strength. However, we still add another block under the rail where the screw goes so that the screws can thread into something solid.
02-06-2016, 06:40 PM
#3200
This is an FG-1A panel that resides in a local museum. I am having the CARB AIR HEAT label for that warning light printed, as well as the military clock face (this is very hard to find), and the label for the Droppable tank selector that you see in the bottom left corner.
This is an authentic looking panel that is true to the period.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 02-06-2016 at 06:54 PM.