christiaan.geyskens

Hi Woody,

If you look closely, you'll see that I had the electric starter fitted on my 250/5. Also +800 grams, and safe and practical starting as a bonus.
Thus equipped, my Corsair balances without a single gram of additional -dead-weight.

Grtz,
Christiaan

woody242

Thanks, my big concern is length, how long were your standoff so, the 9.25" length may be too long to fit well.

woody

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Hello Woody. I have a 7 cylinder in the shop that a customer purchased for his Corsair. I'll be working through the install soon. A bigger issue than the depth is the design of the collector ring. It exits straight down instead for the nice angles on the 250 that line up perfectly with the cut-outs in the CARF fuselage. This is going to mean extra piping in a small area as it is. My recomendation would be to just stay with the 250 and maybe spend the difference on the electric start. You can have a 250 electric start for what you have in that 257 and it will drop right in.

Just what I would do.

woody242

Hi Gary,

Thanks for the info. I figured there would be some issues. The 7 would look so sweet in there.
Though I did have visions of doing a lot of glass work to move the firewall back. I am a ways off from committing to the engine so please keep me posted on the install. Dropping in the five does sound nice but I really love the look of the 7.

thanks,
woody

Growler84

My Feedback: (8)

Goetz told me a few years back when the 250-7 came out that while it may look cooler it will not sound as good as the 5 cylinder. The 7 cylinder provides more of that buzzing Formula I engine sound instead of the throaty more realistic sound (especially at lower throttle settings) of the 250-5 according to Goetz.

woody242

Thanks for the input, it certainly seems like things are leaning towards the 5. I have listened to both engines and actually don't mind the low end sound of the 7, the high end certainly does not seem as nice. Well I still have some time to thing about it. Did not like the electric start at first glance but it is growing on me after a couple videos.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Some cockpit details. No floor in the Corsair cockpit, so I leave it as open as I can.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Switch panels on top of the instrument panel. I fake some wiring in.



I use micro balloons mixed in gloss black to simulate the crackle paint they used.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

These are the armament switches and on the left is the regulator for the light in the gun sight.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Here you can see the wooden wedges that I use in the rail mount per full scale. I have stained the wood and it will be cleaned up during the painting of the surrounding areas. These wedges were used due to the significant taper in the cockpit opening, front to back. This kept the rails parallel.

freddd

Gary, please check your PMs. We are reaching the two year mark for parts which is a pretty sad record.

jetf9f

My Feedback: (3)

Sorry for you!!! I gave up after 5 months

Erich

Hi Chritiaan,

really perfect Maiden. The Self starter is Mega cool. Have always nice flights.

best regards,

Erich

http://www.r2-Team.at

Scale parts for CARF planes and many more, online Reports, ...

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Nice web page.

I have been awaiting my page for a very long time. over 4 years. A nephew is in the business of building these pages and has about half the work done on it. I have no time to look into how to do it as I work full time with two of my sons in the remodeling business, have a grandson with special needs, and my mother in law who we had to move in with us because of her deteriorating condition. I have had other friends in the hobby reach out to help, but have been expecting my nephew to come through for me. Hopefully it is is the near future.

My brother and I will continue to do all we can to help our fellow builders. It takes time to do build threads. But ever since the beginning of RCU and other sites, I have seen these threads as a way to encourage others in their efforts to build more scale into their models. We clearly detail how we and others develop these scale parts so that those with the time, shops, skills, and ambition, will have the benefit of our experience. In the process, many have reached out to us over the years for parts, who want to do the upgrades, but would rather use ready made parts to do so. As a result, to further the help we enjoy offering, we developed 'kits' and parts for our friends around the world, in our spare time. This all congruent with our spiritual responsibilities, family needs, full time jobs, and full builds for others, and a very limited amount of time devoted to maintaining and flying our own fleet. We will continue to do as much as we can to help all we can to build what they want to build in scale aircraft. Thank you again for following our build threads and for the support of what we try to do in helping our fellow modelers.

sincerely,
Gary

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Checked and replied to. Thanks Fredd.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Very sorry we couldn't help. We do as much as we can given the circumstances explained in the previous post. It has been my hope that I would be able to retire from my construction company and work at home full time doing what I love, scale building. It has not been possible up to this point. I still am hopeful this will be possible sooner than later, and under those circumstances, I would finally have the time to build parts to stock for immediate shipment. A few items are kept in stock even now. The gear door detail panels, the stainless steel engine stand off sets, the gun port fairings, and the stainless steel cowl flap spacers, are kept on hand as well as many parts of other 'kits' but most other things are built as requested. In addition, if improvements are discovered and needed, these are gladly made even though it takes additional work and time. The power drive for the slider system is an example of this. We will continue to help everyone we can, any way we can. Sharing what we do is a passion of ours.

Cheers,
Gary

Erich

Hi Gary,

thanx, and I know exactly what you mean with your posts. It is similiar in my case.
These are things we do in our spare time, but we love it .

panhandler

Erich
The try tips look great , are you employing the DMLS?

Erich

Hi panhandler,

You mean the Carf Corsair exhaust stacks, thats right. They are functional, no dummies.
look great and the sonoric sound as well.

Salte

Today i recived my 3D printed scale parts for my Carf Corsair from Erich Rohn www.r2-team.de One month from ordering to doordelivery! And the parts look great! thank you

Geir

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Some help with the cowl system. Important note. DO NOT CUT THE COWL FLAPS APART. You need to cut them from the cowl, leaving them together.



Once they are separated from the cowl, it is easy to flex them and remove the OEM mounting tabs. Then clean up the residual adhesive and the thickened resin at each end. This will be clear after you see them separated.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

You will need (4) mounting tabs instead of the OEM three. I clean up the OEM tabs and reuse them, and I supply one more. The easiest way to relocate these to the cowl is BEFORE the two cowl rings are glued together, as the front ring must be flush with the rear of the cowl. So, I use the OEM aluminum cowl mounts in this way. I bolt them to the front ring using existing holes, then, with the cowl sitting on its nose, I lay the ring in the cowl as a spacer and tape it in place. Then the tabs can easily be tack glued in place in front of the ring. Removing the ring leaves the tabs so they can be epoxied in place and glassed. More on the these later.

Once these tabs are in place, the two rings can be epoxied together with the tapers facing each other, looks a little like a V groove pulley. This V creates a cavity for the flaps to move into when open.

here I use washers to position the ring, but the cowl mounts work very well also.

Rings glued together.

Relocated mounting tabs with blind nuts.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Next is the mounting of the cowl so that it lines up with the fixed flaps at the top.

Taping it in place with at least 3 of the stainless steel spacers in place.

When I am satisfied with the location, I have a long 3/16" drill bit that reaches through the front of the cowl, through the two cowl rings, the spacer, and drills through the fire wall.

Placing bolts through each hole to prevent movement, all (6) bolts holes are drilled.

Next all the holes are enlarged with a 1/4" drill and the blind nuts are installed in the firewall.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

This completed, the flaps can be installed.

First step is to glue the 1/32 ply spacers to one side of each hinge. This side will be glued to the flap.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Next the cowl rings are bolted in place, and the flap strip is taped in place with a 1/32 gap. I place marks on the ring where the sections of flap are to help align the hinges.

Here you can see the marks. The hinges must be kept in from the edges of the flaps to allow for the flap webs.