ram3500-RCU

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I use a combination of large and medium size hinges depending on the size of the flap. These are always glued to the flap FIRST. This is important. First glued to the flap, it is easy then to move them in and out slightly when gluing to the ring, to keep the flaps flush with the cowl. Next the guides for the cable are glued in place, Again, very easy to keep all this aligned because they have NOT been cut apart yet.

Tuggs

Hey,

Outstanding build Gary! When reported about the wing fold issue I had on my corsair, it must have been the temperature in autum / spring. During summer I had no problems folding and expanding the wings anymore. Maybe i used the wrong oil. After somewhat 100 flights, this is still one of my favorite planes.

Here is a video of a test flight, one evening prior to a fly-in at our club.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=94vpMTa82s0

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Thank you for the post Tuggs. Love to here about success stories like yours. Maybe you could share your maintenance procedure on the engine for those with less time on thier round engines. You are obviously doing it right.

thanks again.

Tuggs

Cheers Gary! Sure:

Actually there is barely any maintenance on the engine needed if you treat it right. I have two of them in the Corsair and one in a Butcherbird. The one in the Corsair is manufactured in 2014 and the one in the 190 in 2011. I can see no difference between the black and the blue ignition. The newer engine was tuned by Heilemann here in Germany. It has carbon rods and smaller spark plugs caps. It just ads bling factor.

Both engines burn Stihl Motomix which is somewhat like Aspen in 1:50 mixture with synthetic oil. I dont believe in all the theories regarding the oil btw. Any racing / synthetic oil i.e. Motul or the like will do fine.The only thing i do regularly (after 10 flights maybe) is to clean the small tube coming from the front of the engine (actually i have no idea what it is) and I also lube the pushrods from time to time. This is it. I never touched the carburator needles again, after the initial adjustment of the RPM.

The only real important factor is the proper cooling of these engines. I use baffles for cooling but more importantly most people seem to underestimate the importance of the exiting air from the cowl which is #1 cause for overheated engines. My 109 has additional air exit vents on the bottom of the cowl. I believe the exit airflow with baffles on the corsair is just enough. During hot days I dont overstress the engine to keep the temperature low. I have a temperature sensor on the engine and the 12 o'clock cylinder usually keeps between 240 and 300 degrees Fahrenheit max on warmer days.

Oh yes, I never used a fuel pump. It is simply not necessary and just another source for a potential failure. Keep the clunk level with the carburator (or above) and you'll be fine. I carry 33oz of fuel which is more than enough. I maybe use 50% for a 10 minute flight.

Edit (video of Fw190):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cqZcbXgDZrc

aghost

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Good looking/sounding 190. thanks for the video.

ram3500-RCU

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Thank you for the fine run down on you procedures Tuggs. The clear tube from the front casing to the carb is the pulse line for the diaphragm pump in the Walbro carb. The reason that is must be kept clear if no external pump is used. I agree that setup can be critical in the performance of any engine. Thanks again.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

OK. The flap hinges have been glued in place with CA. I install the flap ring and mark where I want the drive cable to enter the first flaps.



At this point I also mark and cut out the access to the servo arms.

ram3500-RCU

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Here you can see all the cable guides that have been glued in place.



At this point, I'm finally ready to cut the flaps apart. I remove the cable and do that next.

NOTE. I do not do the final reinforcement of the glue joints at this time. After all the flaps are cut apart and fit properly, the webs will be glued to one side of each flap. Only after this is done will I do the final Hysol coating of epoxy on the hinges and guides. This way the webs fit tightly.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Tuggs,
I agree with you on maintenance. I've got 200 flights on my Corsair without any problems to engine or gear. No pump and functioning cowl flaps and baffles to keep her cool and using ISO/JESO grade oil at 50:1. After each event (usually a 3-4 day event and several flights), I take the cowl off and check everything and oil rockers/push rods: I don't consider it a big hassle to take 3 screws out to remove the cowl and check the engine (besides, it's always a pleasure to look at a beautiful engine).
We each have to do what's we're comfortable with so those who use a pump are good as I feel there is no 'one way' for most problems.
I got one of the first corsairs back in Oct of 2008 so my engine is the old 'top hat' version.
Last year, I sent mine in to have it PM'ed.
One thing that I'm definitely glad I did was switch to down and locks mechanism for my folding wing.
Sam

ram3500-RCU

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You are another great success story Sam. You do it right.

ram3500-RCU

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Cowl flaps are cut apart and filed down (the OEM cowl is molded in a partially open position, so the flaps need to be reshaped to have square corners). All webbing is installed. Cable guides are reinforced with Hysol. Additional cooling holes have been drilled. Cable is installed to insure smooth movement.



Next I apply Aerofoil to the flaps and webbing. Then the ring is screwed in place and stops are glued to the inside so they line up with the fuselage when closed. Then they come back off for paint on the inside, and Aerofoil from Meister on the outside and the webbing. This makes for very realistic weathering.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Stop glued in place and all the flaps are covered with Aerofoil. Rivets have been embossed into the foil.



Final hook up of the cables to the servos and then paint. I use Hitec 5645MG servos for the cowl flaps. They are inexpensive and can be programed, therefore I can reverse one and slow them both down for realistic operation. This makes hookup to the RX simple via a Y harness and one channel.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

With the cowl flap parts I include a pattern for this type of baffle. It attaches to the cowl. I am working on the production of a ready made metal baffle system that will be a simple bolt on part for the Moki and will fit both the 215 and 250 to start with. Installation be simple. using existing bolts on the front of the Moki case. Attaching to the engine in that way, it will be useful in virtually any aircraft using the Moki, with or without cowls. Hope to have it sometime early in 2017.

ram3500-RCU

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We would like to thank everyone for your support and wish all of you a happy new year. My brother and I are doing all we can to make this coming year an enjoyable one for those of you with CARF Corsairs.



May all of us have a good year of building and flying.

ram3500-RCU

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Behind on posting. Here are some pictures of progress on this one.

Fixing and detailing the hatches.

ram3500-RCU

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Installing the piano hinges.

ram3500-RCU

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Cutting in the Dutzs fasteners.

ram3500-RCU

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Adding the hatches made from HVAC tape.

ram3500-RCU

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Flap system.

ram3500-RCU

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The nose detail.

Growler84

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Nice Gary.

Mine is about to go operational again.


Phil already told me they didn't use color maps in WWII. I paid $7.95 for it so it stays!

smeegarn

Hi All,
Thought I would add a couple of shots of my recently test flown Corsair here in Australia with good friend Steve Thomas. Both corsairs have 7 cylinder Moki’s and fly beatifully.
Peter

ram3500-RCU

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Looks great Greg! She looks very much in action. Just the way personally I like to these birds depicted. Hope we can fly our Corsairs together somewhere this year.

I have two Corsairs for other pilots that will also be added to the "active" list. More waiting in the wings, so to speak.

Fun stuff.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Thank you so much for posting. These are very good looking builds.

How did you plumb the exhaust on the 7 cylinders? The collector ring is different from the 5 cylinders. Any pictures?

smeegarn

Gary,

No they don't line up but with the right size flex pipe it seems to work ok. Steve has quite a few flights on his now with no issues.
cheers

Peter