CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
03-19-2017, 05:07 PM
#3502
Just as a way of review for any who may be using the OEM wing system here are a few things to remember.
Fluid can not be compressed but air can. The accumulator in the system creates the standing pressure needed by the pump. It needs to be able to keep about 6bar or about 87lbs of pressure to keep a steady force on the fluid. The pump will not move the wings without this air cushion to, in effect, increase the volume of the fluid. Early on we had problems with leaks in the air system, and pumps that started to bi-pass and become weak, blown fittings, or even a failed bladder (a real mess). All this would result in slow or failed operation.
Since going to electric, we have not had issues on our systems. As Down & Locked worked through some supplier issues with trannies, we would update our systems BEFORE any of them failed in service as a very few did. Since we have gotten through all that, we have had no more issues and I am confident that the electric systems we are installing in the wings these days are the very best drive units for these wings that we have available.
Fluid can not be compressed but air can. The accumulator in the system creates the standing pressure needed by the pump. It needs to be able to keep about 6bar or about 87lbs of pressure to keep a steady force on the fluid. The pump will not move the wings without this air cushion to, in effect, increase the volume of the fluid. Early on we had problems with leaks in the air system, and pumps that started to bi-pass and become weak, blown fittings, or even a failed bladder (a real mess). All this would result in slow or failed operation.
Since going to electric, we have not had issues on our systems. As Down & Locked worked through some supplier issues with trannies, we would update our systems BEFORE any of them failed in service as a very few did. Since we have gotten through all that, we have had no more issues and I am confident that the electric systems we are installing in the wings these days are the very best drive units for these wings that we have available.
03-22-2017, 04:02 AM
#3503
Just as a way of review for any who may be using the OEM wing system here are a few things to remember.
Fluid can not be compressed but air can. The accumulator in the system creates the standing pressure needed by the pump. It needs to be able to keep about 6bar or about 87lbs of pressure to keep a steady force on the fluid. The pump will not move the wings without this air cushion to, in effect, increase the volume of the fluid. Early on we had problems with leaks in the air system, and pumps that started to bi-pass and become weak, blown fittings, or even a failed bladder (a real mess). All this would result in slow or failed operation.
Since going to electric, we have not had issues on our systems. As Down & Locked worked through some supplier issues with trannies, we would update our systems BEFORE any of them failed in service as a very few did. Since we have gotten through all that, we have had no more issues and I am confident that the electric systems we are installing in the wings these days are the very best drive units for these wings that we have available.
Fluid can not be compressed but air can. The accumulator in the system creates the standing pressure needed by the pump. It needs to be able to keep about 6bar or about 87lbs of pressure to keep a steady force on the fluid. The pump will not move the wings without this air cushion to, in effect, increase the volume of the fluid. Early on we had problems with leaks in the air system, and pumps that started to bi-pass and become weak, blown fittings, or even a failed bladder (a real mess). All this would result in slow or failed operation.
Since going to electric, we have not had issues on our systems. As Down & Locked worked through some supplier issues with trannies, we would update our systems BEFORE any of them failed in service as a very few did. Since we have gotten through all that, we have had no more issues and I am confident that the electric systems we are installing in the wings these days are the very best drive units for these wings that we have available.
+1 on this. I replaced the hydraulic wing mechanisms with electric from Down & Locked and could not be any happier with the way they operate now.
03-23-2017, 07:02 AM
#3505
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03-27-2017, 05:34 AM
#3508
No web site yet. Sorry. Send me a PM and let me know what you need. We are trying to keep up with the requests. The popularity of these planes has continued after all these years. A true testament to how well CARF did with the design and production of them.
03-30-2017, 10:51 AM
#3509
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Hi, I just thought to post it here first, I have a Comp corsair F4U-1D complete folding wing for sale. The wing only not the complete kit.
Nothing is done to it yet except I cut out the gear covers.
I decided not to built this version so instead I am going with the ARF version. Is much easier to assemble than the kit version.
If anyone is interested send me a PM and we can deal with it.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/ite...512&electric=0
Thanks
Bill
I had a few offers on this item and I want to verify that I am selling the wing only and not the complete kit.
Nothing is done to it yet except I cut out the gear covers.
I decided not to built this version so instead I am going with the ARF version. Is much easier to assemble than the kit version.
If anyone is interested send me a PM and we can deal with it.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/ite...512&electric=0
Thanks
Bill
I had a few offers on this item and I want to verify that I am selling the wing only and not the complete kit.
Last edited by Zorba1; 03-30-2017 at 04:23 PM.
04-10-2017, 04:11 AM
#3510
After a year of reworking all the electronics, plumbing, landing and wing gear on a used one I picked up a year ago, I finally got my in the air yesterday. Here some videos of the maiden flight. Things I noted, it really pulls hard left on take off. I did not use full throtle instead eased up on it to about half. Took a lot of rudder to keep it going. Really needed more as it still took off to the left. Is this normal or do you think I need more offset on the motor? Also comes in really hot, even with my full flap setting. I used 3 1/4 inches on the trailing edge of the inter flap from next to the fuselage. Does this sound like the right measurement for full flaps?
Take off
https://youtu.be/CbgrDBidVgA
Landing
https://youtu.be/GDS4PJZM8Io
Here is my build thread:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...0-Carf-Corsair
Take off
https://youtu.be/CbgrDBidVgA
Landing
https://youtu.be/GDS4PJZM8Io
Here is my build thread:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...0-Carf-Corsair
Last edited by GeorgiaFlyer; 04-10-2017 at 12:43 PM.
04-10-2017, 11:08 AM
#3511
The good news is, everything you experienced is completely normal. I watched your takeoff and landing, nice field!
-Your power application on take off was too fast and too much without enough rudder. That's standard for someone not used to the model. I took me about 10 flights to figure out the technique and even after that I occasionally screw it up by using too much power. Never use more than half power, be patient, use as much rudder as required meaning if full rudder is needed, use it. The takeoff will improve greatly once you bring the Mercury into the process. Do not add more offset, the stock offset is correct.
-"...comes in really hot..." Its a 60+lb Warbird and I know from telemetry its about 55-60 mph on final and about 50 mph at touchdown when flown properly. Its easy to come in fast on a maiden flight because our nerves are on edge causing us to fly faster approaches out of fear the model will stall. As you get more approaches and landings under your belt, the speeds will come down but do not expect to see the picture you get with a large IMAC plane or a big Moki-powered bipe. Spend 5 minutes or so every flight flying the plane around fully configured to familiarize yourself with the slow flight characteristics. Keep your bank angle down to 20-30 degrees maximum and use power whenever you roll into a turn, but take it back out a bit once wings level.
You did fine, bring in the gyro and get some slow flight time under your belt.
Also try as best you can to ignore the fact that you are basically flying around a model worth a good used car
-Your power application on take off was too fast and too much without enough rudder. That's standard for someone not used to the model. I took me about 10 flights to figure out the technique and even after that I occasionally screw it up by using too much power. Never use more than half power, be patient, use as much rudder as required meaning if full rudder is needed, use it. The takeoff will improve greatly once you bring the Mercury into the process. Do not add more offset, the stock offset is correct.
-"...comes in really hot..." Its a 60+lb Warbird and I know from telemetry its about 55-60 mph on final and about 50 mph at touchdown when flown properly. Its easy to come in fast on a maiden flight because our nerves are on edge causing us to fly faster approaches out of fear the model will stall. As you get more approaches and landings under your belt, the speeds will come down but do not expect to see the picture you get with a large IMAC plane or a big Moki-powered bipe. Spend 5 minutes or so every flight flying the plane around fully configured to familiarize yourself with the slow flight characteristics. Keep your bank angle down to 20-30 degrees maximum and use power whenever you roll into a turn, but take it back out a bit once wings level.
You did fine, bring in the gyro and get some slow flight time under your belt.
Also try as best you can to ignore the fact that you are basically flying around a model worth a good used car
04-10-2017, 12:42 PM
#3512
The good news is, everything you experienced is completely normal. I watched your takeoff and landing, nice field!
-Your power application on take off was too fast and too much without enough rudder. That's standard for someone not used to the model. I took me about 10 flights to figure out the technique and even after that I occasionally screw it up by using too much power. Never use more than half power, be patient, use as much rudder as required meaning if full rudder is needed, use it. The takeoff will improve greatly once you bring the Mercury into the process. Do not add more offset, the stock offset is correct.
-"...comes in really hot..." Its a 60+lb Warbird and I know from telemetry its about 55-60 mph on final and about 50 mph at touchdown when flown properly. Its easy to come in fast on a maiden flight because our nerves are on edge causing us to fly faster approaches out of fear the model will stall. As you get more approaches and landings under your belt, the speeds will come down but do not expect to see the picture you get with a large IMAC plane or a big Moki-powered bipe. Spend 5 minutes or so every flight flying the plane around fully configured to familiarize yourself with the slow flight characteristics. Keep your bank angle down to 20-30 degrees maximum and use power whenever you roll into a turn, but take it back out a bit once wings level.
You did fine, bring in the gyro and get some slow flight time under your belt.
Also try as best you can to ignore the fact that you are basically flying around a model worth a good used car
-Your power application on take off was too fast and too much without enough rudder. That's standard for someone not used to the model. I took me about 10 flights to figure out the technique and even after that I occasionally screw it up by using too much power. Never use more than half power, be patient, use as much rudder as required meaning if full rudder is needed, use it. The takeoff will improve greatly once you bring the Mercury into the process. Do not add more offset, the stock offset is correct.
-"...comes in really hot..." Its a 60+lb Warbird and I know from telemetry its about 55-60 mph on final and about 50 mph at touchdown when flown properly. Its easy to come in fast on a maiden flight because our nerves are on edge causing us to fly faster approaches out of fear the model will stall. As you get more approaches and landings under your belt, the speeds will come down but do not expect to see the picture you get with a large IMAC plane or a big Moki-powered bipe. Spend 5 minutes or so every flight flying the plane around fully configured to familiarize yourself with the slow flight characteristics. Keep your bank angle down to 20-30 degrees maximum and use power whenever you roll into a turn, but take it back out a bit once wings level.
You did fine, bring in the gyro and get some slow flight time under your belt.
Also try as best you can to ignore the fact that you are basically flying around a model worth a good used car
Thanks for the advise Greg, Good to hear what I experienced on this first flight is normal. I hope to get some more flights in this coming weekend weather permitting.
05-28-2017, 06:51 AM
#3515
Thanks to everyone for your patience. It has been more of a challenge than expected since we had to move my mother in law in with us. Her health issues and then all the things we had to get done leading up to my wife's open heart surgery have taken their toll on the rest of my life. The surgery was this last Tuesday. she was 6.5 hours in surgery but it was a total success. The aortic valve and artery are replaced and everything is working great. She came home Friday night late. Now the recovery. I can now get back to other things. I'll get caught up as soon as I can. Thank again.
05-31-2017, 04:53 PM
#3517
Join Date: Apr 2007
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Hi Gary,
After a bunch of time off getting ready to assemble my folding wings. Looks like I'll need to do some sanding to get a consistent gap between the center section and outboard wings. Looks like they touch at the leading edge and aft. What is a good gap to use to avoid interference when folding. Also could you pm me with parts you have and pricing.
Thanks,
Woody
After a bunch of time off getting ready to assemble my folding wings. Looks like I'll need to do some sanding to get a consistent gap between the center section and outboard wings. Looks like they touch at the leading edge and aft. What is a good gap to use to avoid interference when folding. Also could you pm me with parts you have and pricing.
Thanks,
Woody
06-01-2017, 07:40 PM
#3518
Hi Gary,
After a bunch of time off getting ready to assemble my folding wings. Looks like I'll need to do some sanding to get a consistent gap between the center section and outboard wings. Looks like they touch at the leading edge and aft. What is a good gap to use to avoid interference when folding. Also could you pm me with parts you have and pricing.
Thanks,
Woody
After a bunch of time off getting ready to assemble my folding wings. Looks like I'll need to do some sanding to get a consistent gap between the center section and outboard wings. Looks like they touch at the leading edge and aft. What is a good gap to use to avoid interference when folding. Also could you pm me with parts you have and pricing.
Thanks,
Woody
Here are some videos we made on the wings.
06-07-2017, 01:19 AM
#3519
Sorry for the late response, I was avoiding this thread for the last months as, in a moment of total stupidity, i sold my Corsair to a good friend. As I was quite heartbroken, and still am, I am picking up my new Corsair on the weekend.
The colors I used were from Tailormade in Germany, also the Paint masks and stickers. If you want I can check for the color codes, but i would suggest to contact him directly as he is possibly the best source for paint here in Europe.
I guess i will post my build here
Cheers T
... oh I almost forgot:
Is there a full list of all possible parts that one can purchase for the corsair, such as the inner gear doors, exhaust stacks etc.
thanks
Last edited by Tuggs; 06-07-2017 at 01:20 AM. Reason: add sometthing
06-20-2017, 06:17 PM
#3521
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: porter, TX
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Gary. I am nearly done my build, now on hold pending these sliding canopy parts I paid for. I am moving to a new house and I really need to finish this project before I move and pack up my workshop.
Can you tell all of us for once and for all when you can ship our kits?
Dan
Can you tell all of us for once and for all when you can ship our kits?
Dan
06-24-2017, 10:05 PM
#3523
Join Date: Dec 2006
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OK Gary so I'm a the point now where the last thing is the canopy. So I guess I will just mount it with bolts as one piece and hopefully if I ever get my kit from you will just go back and redo it.
I would have preferred to do it before now but I'm moving and I have to start packing up my workshop.
I don't want to leave an unfinished porject and then take forever to find everything again in a new shop.
Sorry for you personal issues, we all have them.
I'm doing the Royal Navy variant btw.
I would have preferred to do it before now but I'm moving and I have to start packing up my workshop.
I don't want to leave an unfinished porject and then take forever to find everything again in a new shop.
Sorry for you personal issues, we all have them.
I'm doing the Royal Navy variant btw.
06-25-2017, 05:11 AM
#3524
OK Gary so I'm a the point now where the last thing is the canopy. So I guess I will just mount it with bolts as one piece and hopefully if I ever get my kit from you will just go back and redo it.
I would have preferred to do it before now but I'm moving and I have to start packing up my workshop.
I don't want to leave an unfinished porject and then take forever to find everything again in a new shop.
Sorry for you personal issues, we all have them.
I'm doing the Royal Navy variant btw.
I would have preferred to do it before now but I'm moving and I have to start packing up my workshop.
I don't want to leave an unfinished porject and then take forever to find everything again in a new shop.
Sorry for you personal issues, we all have them.
I'm doing the Royal Navy variant btw.
tks
Gary
