Midwest AT-6 Overhaul
03-09-2015, 03:12 PM
#76
Sincerely, Richard
Top Flite AT-6/Saito FA-100
09-16-2015, 08:08 PM
#77
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Ah, got it. I have rarely ever used anything but either wood or sheet metal screws for their simplicity and, thus far, reliability.
In related news (related to the Midwest Texan in general that is) I will be purchasing another Midwest Texan to replace my "old reliable" which took its last flight this past October. Local scale builder Jeremy Roth has decided to move on and I will be taking it off his hands in the near future. Jeremy is a fantastic builder and the Texan is not only built very well but Jeremy added flaps and scale airfoiled tail feathers. It needs a bit of TLC but overall is in great shape and I look forward to having a Midwest Texan in my stable again.
Here she is:
In related news (related to the Midwest Texan in general that is) I will be purchasing another Midwest Texan to replace my "old reliable" which took its last flight this past October. Local scale builder Jeremy Roth has decided to move on and I will be taking it off his hands in the near future. Jeremy is a fantastic builder and the Texan is not only built very well but Jeremy added flaps and scale airfoiled tail feathers. It needs a bit of TLC but overall is in great shape and I look forward to having a Midwest Texan in my stable again.
Here she is:
I have a Midwest partially done that I will be geting back to in October. I'd be interested in how the linkage was set up for flaps in your new T6. I spoke to Rich Uravitch, but he said he cant remember his drawings for that mod. My thought is to control the center flap and run torque rods to the outer.
Thanks for the tip on the CG and control rods.
Andy
09-16-2015, 11:29 PM
#78
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Chad,
I have a Midwest partially done that I will be geting back to in October. I'd be interested in how the linkage was set up for flaps in your new T6. I spoke to Rich Uravitch, but he said he cant remember his drawings for that mod. My thought is to control the center flap and run torque rods to the outer.
Thanks for the tip on the CG and control rods.
Andy
I have a Midwest partially done that I will be geting back to in October. I'd be interested in how the linkage was set up for flaps in your new T6. I spoke to Rich Uravitch, but he said he cant remember his drawings for that mod. My thought is to control the center flap and run torque rods to the outer.
Thanks for the tip on the CG and control rods.
Andy
09-17-2015, 10:19 AM
#79
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The one that I rebuilt for a club member several years back did not have flaps. I added them and used two servos, one in each out board wing panel. The tow outer flap section then used a carbon blade that drove the center flap section. I figured that the savings of the one servo aft of the CG was worth it. I used two mid-sized Futaba servos.
09-17-2015, 08:48 PM
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Thanks for the reply. I was hoping to keep the linkages hidden, but most everyone seems to use two to three servos.
09-17-2015, 08:52 PM
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The one that I rebuilt for a club member several years back did not have flaps. I added them and used two servos, one in each out board wing panel. The tow outer flap section then used a carbon blade that drove the center flap section. I figured that the savings of the one servo aft of the CG was worth it. I used two mid-sized Futaba servos.
12-17-2015, 08:41 AM
#82
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I'm back working on my AT-6. Hope some of you guys are still flying yours.
I would like to add the half round wing joint cover to my plane. Anyone have an idea of how to make this? Also what should the width be?
I would like to add the half round wing joint cover to my plane. Anyone have an idea of how to make this? Also what should the width be?
12-17-2015, 11:10 AM
#83
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12-17-2015, 11:23 AM
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Thanks Chad,
Found it at the link below hope the parts are still available.
http://004edc4.netsolhost.com/BAUrav...norderfmr.html
Found it at the link below hope the parts are still available.
http://004edc4.netsolhost.com/BAUrav...norderfmr.html
12-18-2015, 07:51 AM
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Thanks Chad,
Found it at the link below hope the parts are still available.
http://004edc4.netsolhost.com/BAUrav...norderfmr.html
Found it at the link below hope the parts are still available.
http://004edc4.netsolhost.com/BAUrav...norderfmr.html
Andy
11-07-2016, 10:29 AM
#89
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Nice work Steve, glad to see you back on it. One of these days I will get around to putting the blue one seen in my post above back together. It only needs some very minor work to get it airworthy again but I am planning a complete refinish into a different scheme. So many projects...
12-18-2016, 05:49 AM
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For finishing I'm planning on using a coat of sanding sealer then fiberglass with WBPC. This will be my first time doing this process. What do you guys think? Any tips? Also what should I do about the fiberglass wheel center section, butt up to it with fiberglass or cover over it?
12-18-2016, 05:57 AM
#92
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Steve,
I've used Deft sanding sealer before and it provided a good base for fiberglassing later.
Just make sure you don't use the water base stuff as it might warp your balsa. I've also used WBPC to lay down cloth as it's quick and easy to use but I'm not sure that it gives you as hard a finish as resin. Just my 2 cents..
paul
paul
I've used Deft sanding sealer before and it provided a good base for fiberglassing later.
Just make sure you don't use the water base stuff as it might warp your balsa. I've also used WBPC to lay down cloth as it's quick and easy to use but I'm not sure that it gives you as hard a finish as resin. Just my 2 cents..
paul
paul
12-18-2016, 08:39 AM
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Steve,
I've used Deft sanding sealer before and it provided a good base for fiberglassing later.
Just make sure you don't use the water base stuff as it might warp your balsa. I've also used WBPC to lay down cloth as it's quick and easy to use but I'm not sure that it gives you as hard a finish as resin. Just my 2 cents..
paul
paul
I've used Deft sanding sealer before and it provided a good base for fiberglassing later.
Just make sure you don't use the water base stuff as it might warp your balsa. I've also used WBPC to lay down cloth as it's quick and easy to use but I'm not sure that it gives you as hard a finish as resin. Just my 2 cents..
paul
paul
12-19-2016, 05:20 AM
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12-19-2016, 11:18 AM
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A sealer is used prior to glassing with the WBPU because it is a water based product and can cause warping on untreated balsa. I have glassed one aircraft using the WBPU method and it works fine and results in every bit as nice a finished surface as glassing with resin. It is a much faster process than resin since the WBPU dries in minutes rather than hours. Not 100% certain but the WBPU process may result in a lighter finish as well. The only drawback I found is that the finished surface does not resist hangar rash as well as resin does.
12-19-2016, 12:50 PM
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A sealer is used prior to glassing with the WBPU because it is a water based product and can cause warping on untreated balsa. I have glassed one aircraft using the WBPU method and it works fine and results in every bit as nice a finished surface as glassing with resin. It is a much faster process than resin since the WBPU dries in minutes rather than hours. Not 100% certain but the WBPU process may result in a lighter finish as well. The only drawback I found is that the finished surface does not resist hangar rash as well as resin does.